Extra 260 27% Hangar 9er
#3626
Senior Member
My Feedback: (13)
RE: Extra 260 27% Hangar 9er
Good grief... how time flies. Its been over a year since I bought a new kit of this model... got the front end done, then dropped out of the hobby again for other distractions. What woke me up was the realization that I didn't even renew my AMA for 2012.
But I'm back now, with renewed interest; the break did some good.
Sorry for the life story I know is of no interest to anyone. Anyway, back to the H9 27%...
I disagree that this airframe is not suited for a 50cc gasser. I had two different ones on my first model, and they did quite well; particularly the Brison 3.2. But no more gasoline for me, so this new one will have a BGX-1 glow engine.
As some have noted, this is one of the BEST flying models many RCers have ever tried. With the CG right, it is without doubt the best landing airplane _I_ have ever flown. When there was no wind, the slightly reflexed ailerons I had set up on a "landing mode" produced greaser wheel landings with almost no effort.
I am really looking forward to getting back in the air with this plane. The BGX-1 is a bit short on raw power for extended vertical, but it should fly a Basic sequence well enough.
I just realized this is the 3F forum... Oops...
.
But I'm back now, with renewed interest; the break did some good.
Sorry for the life story I know is of no interest to anyone. Anyway, back to the H9 27%...
I disagree that this airframe is not suited for a 50cc gasser. I had two different ones on my first model, and they did quite well; particularly the Brison 3.2. But no more gasoline for me, so this new one will have a BGX-1 glow engine.
As some have noted, this is one of the BEST flying models many RCers have ever tried. With the CG right, it is without doubt the best landing airplane _I_ have ever flown. When there was no wind, the slightly reflexed ailerons I had set up on a "landing mode" produced greaser wheel landings with almost no effort.
I am really looking forward to getting back in the air with this plane. The BGX-1 is a bit short on raw power for extended vertical, but it should fly a Basic sequence well enough.
I just realized this is the 3F forum... Oops...
.
#3627
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Manavgat, TURKEY
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Hello, I buy an extra260 hangar 27% new box.
I install a propeller 23*8 DLE55 I checked all the wings or fuselage have no problem. The wings have the same weight.
My problem is flying the plane turns to the left itself. I need to trim (+11 )a lot to fly straight! Use Futaba t8fg
Please help...
I install a propeller 23*8 DLE55 I checked all the wings or fuselage have no problem. The wings have the same weight.
My problem is flying the plane turns to the left itself. I need to trim (+11 )a lot to fly straight! Use Futaba t8fg
Please help...
#3628
My Feedback: (11)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Calgary,
AB, CANADA
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Hi Boolat:
I would be willing to bet that you have a warped wing, or more incidence on one side than the other. You can easily check the incidence with a meter. but if you want to check for warps the best way I have found is to tack a straight edge to the center line of the root and the tip of each wing and then hold each wing up and sight along the length to see if both straight edges are parallel. If this is the problem it is easily fixed by twisting it straight and applying heat to the covering with a heat gun.
I would be willing to bet that you have a warped wing, or more incidence on one side than the other. You can easily check the incidence with a meter. but if you want to check for warps the best way I have found is to tack a straight edge to the center line of the root and the tip of each wing and then hold each wing up and sight along the length to see if both straight edges are parallel. If this is the problem it is easily fixed by twisting it straight and applying heat to the covering with a heat gun.
#3632
Hold the wing in the direction you want to twist it and apply a heat gun to the side you want to tighten, but the wing does not look that warped from your photo's, what I would address however is the very large gap between the LE of the Aileron and the TE of the wing, seal it with a strip of iron on film on the underside of the wing, this would also apply to the elevator if the gap is as big, you will find the controls much more precise once you do this.
Mike
Mike
#3634
My Feedback: (1)
Boolat, if you fly and do an upline, straight up into the air, with not much wind, does the airplane pull to the left? if so, you may need to increase the right thrust.
then also do these tests:
fly the airplane at a 45 degree up angle, then invert the airplane , with full throttle, and see what happens, if the airplane arcs towards the earth, it is nose heavy, if it arcs towards outer space, then it is tail heavy.
ok,
one more thing you have to check:
get a carbine fiber stick, actually two, and tape them to the back of both elevators.
set your elevator halves at neutral to be in same position. then with high rates, make sure both right and left elevators are at the same points in extreme deflection. do this both ways. use your transmitter to make them equal at neutral, up full deflection and down full deflection.
let us know what you come up with.
then also do these tests:
fly the airplane at a 45 degree up angle, then invert the airplane , with full throttle, and see what happens, if the airplane arcs towards the earth, it is nose heavy, if it arcs towards outer space, then it is tail heavy.
ok,
one more thing you have to check:
get a carbine fiber stick, actually two, and tape them to the back of both elevators.
set your elevator halves at neutral to be in same position. then with high rates, make sure both right and left elevators are at the same points in extreme deflection. do this both ways. use your transmitter to make them equal at neutral, up full deflection and down full deflection.
let us know what you come up with.
#3635
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Hi again Boolat:
From your pictures I see that you have the sticks clamped to the top and bottom of the wing tip. I don't think this will tell you anything. You need to have one stick on the chord line at the root or fuse end of the wing and one on the chord line of the tip end. To do this you need to make marks on the wing tip at the center of the leading edge and the center of the trailing edge of the wing (not the aileron) and then apply one of the sticks parallel to this line, the other stick can be laid across the anti rotation pins on the root or fuse end of the wing. You can then sight from the tip to the root and see if the sticks are parallel. even 1 degree of twist will cause a roll that has to be corrected with aileron.
Bill
From your pictures I see that you have the sticks clamped to the top and bottom of the wing tip. I don't think this will tell you anything. You need to have one stick on the chord line at the root or fuse end of the wing and one on the chord line of the tip end. To do this you need to make marks on the wing tip at the center of the leading edge and the center of the trailing edge of the wing (not the aileron) and then apply one of the sticks parallel to this line, the other stick can be laid across the anti rotation pins on the root or fuse end of the wing. You can then sight from the tip to the root and see if the sticks are parallel. even 1 degree of twist will cause a roll that has to be corrected with aileron.
Bill
#3636
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By the way I had one of these hanger 9 extra's for 5 or 6 years and put 2 or 3 hundred flights on it with no problems except for the landing gear de-laminating. It is a very good aeroplane.
Bill
Bill