catmanJim

My Feedback: (1)

My throws are at 25 % and it will not even do a reg. spin it does like a barrel roll spin, and when i try to snap it does a barrel roll
4 SALE

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Maybe I misunderstood you... when you say spin... do you mean an axial roll?

And when you do a snap roll, is it a positive snap? Meaning you give it right aileron, up elevator and right rudder?

Like this?

catmanJim

My Feedback: (1)

yes possitative snap and a axial spin go high stall the plane L air L rud and full up el and it does a barrel roll spin

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

What is your setup?

Engine
Servos
Batteries
etc...

pcsol

My Feedback: (2)

Jim,
Check for some hidden differential as well. Accurately measure your aileron throws throughout the range of travel for differences between left and right (down and up). Is your distance between the tip of the servo horns and the control horns the same for both left and right? Are the left and right servos traveling the exact same distance while connected/disconnected from the ailerons? Basic stuff ,but easy to overlook.
If the plane is being forced out of its axis in a roll differential could be the culprit.
Do the same checks for your elevator halves as well. They will have some input to this issue if happening during snaps.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Hey guys...here's another tip to put a stop to losing the hatch and cowl screws: Change to nylon screws. They don't back out.

mga

Got my kit yesterday. my dealer made sure to repac the plane and added more paper to make sure no movement. It arrived here yesterday, in perfect ncondition. A very impressive ARF. I know just by looking at the hardware, I am not going to use that plus the wheels are going else where. Now have to save up for the motor. FPE 70cc. I am not going to go through all the lightening that some did, I am not a believer in a light light plane as we fly here in whinds up to fourty miles per hour. And that is often. So light is not good here.

mga

You can see, that the original Lanier box was packed in another box and that box was paked in another one. So if anyone is thinking of buying this kit, make sure to tell your dealer to check it out before he sends it to you and repac it to make sure no damage is done to it.

BoneDoc

My Feedback: (1)

Why not the EVO 58? I think that's the perfect motor for this application.

mga

Because I have 2 FPE one a 40cc and the other a 52cc and they have never let me down. They are very reliable and you can talk to the builder anytime for adviice. So I am sticking with what works for me.

petergordon

My Feedback: (5)

Ok, so it's been months that we've had our planes. My excuse is that we had a new baby girl two weeks ago. I'm about to install the radio equipment, mount the moter, and then balance. WHERE ARE THE VIDEOS?!?!?!?[>:]

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Mine is very close to being completed and fair weather lies ahead... I hoep to get mine flown next week. This weekend is the Toledo Show and for the past cople weeks I've been finishing up some websites...

petergordon

My Feedback: (5)

I realized a big mistake by gluing the aileron to the wing PRIOR to drilling the holes for the control horn. My wee drill press doesn't have the reach to get in that deep. So I measured the taper angle to the aileron, halved the angle, cut a 2x4 with that angle to it, predrilled a guide hole, then used the jig to drill the aileron holes perfectly up n' down through the tapered aileron.

Now I also realize that I think I drilled the hole too close to the bevel. I went 1/8" back from the beveled edge, but my control horn will impact the wing too early for my liking. I think I ought to have drilled the hole about 5/8" back instead.

Peter

BoneDoc

My Feedback: (1)

Don't worry, Epoxy cureth all drilling mistake

petergordon

My Feedback: (5)

How far back from the bevel (or hinge line) are people drilling for their control horns? I had been trying to get the pivot of the control horn to be dead in line with the hinge line, but you can't do that with these surfaces. Besides, you don't really have to do that anyway.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Dpends entirely on teh control horn you choose.

Get your horns (if you don't already have them) and measure from the cernterline of the bolt to the center of the attachment point (axis) that will be over the hingeline.

Then drill that far back form the hingeline on the surface.

Dubro horns are pretty long (Approx 29mm or a hair over 1 1/8")

Sullivans are a little shorter...

GP are adjustable...

The stock horns seemed O.K. to get over the aileron hingline... but I didn't even try on the elevators/rudder... went with DuBro there...

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

I used Nelson Hobbies control setup. As far as spacing from the hingline to the drilled hole, I simply put the edge of the supplied cup-washer on the edge of the bevel at the top, marked it on both sides, then I used a large "T" pin and stuck it through till I hit the mark on the other side, then I step-drilled till I got the correct size hole, threaded the control bolt through till almost home, then I put medium CA on about a half inch of threads and screwed it on in. I amazed myself because I didn't have to plug or re-drill even once!!!

I did a test run on my plane today and noticed that the cowl vibrates quite a bit, so I am going back and adding 2 more blocks at the top to mount the cowl. It will be ready to fly when I get that done. I am using a Fuji BT 64 and (2) 2500 MAH nimh's and she balanced perfectly at 7 1/4" without adding any weight.

mga

HI, I would like to know if any of you had any problems with the fit of the Hatch. Mine needs a lot of sanding so that the fit is nice and tight. Right now as is, it will not close down on the fuse all the way. I also had to widen the holes on each side so that the wood pieces with the blind nuts would fit through. When I went to close down the hatch they would be about 1/16 of an inch on the flat part, So I am wondering if any of you had this problem. Also I see that the have very small blind nuts and srews for the cowling hold down. I am going to go with what I use on my other planes, the small nylon screws and I tap the wood blocs. This has worked for me very well and I never had them come loose. I most probably do the same thing for the hatch hold down.
Thanks

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Mine does not want to close up all the way either...leaves about 1/16 gap at the rear of the hatch, but my screws do line up. I put very small "O" rings under the screw heads.

frieshoo

My Feedback: (20)

We lost our hatch today. During an awesome waterfall, the hatch flew off the airplane. Got the plane back in one piece, but the canopy hit the rudder causing some damage. Get this, the screws didn't back out, the pin dowls in front were not glued in, and they worked loose (The engine was running rich, and vibrating more than usual). Good flying Yak, I bought it of my buddy at the end of the day. The Evolution 58 is a good match.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

I almost lost my hatch also, but not from loose or unglued dowels...the vibration from the engine caused the mount tabs at the back of the hatch to vibrate to the point that the tabs burned!!!! It rounded out the mount hole in the fuse so much that I plugged it with a 1/4" dowel..I mean a perfect 1/4" round hole!!!! and that was after just one short flight.
You guys are right...the tailwheel sux!!! Going to order an Ohio Superstar tailwheel tomorrow.

BoneDoc

My Feedback: (1)

I warned you guys about this 1-2 weeks ago. I guess some people don't believe it until it happens to them. The good news for me was that it didn't hit anything, so my rudder was spared. With a proper aft cg, these birds will do awesome waterfall / KE spin.

FishMan

My Feedback: (17)

Thx for the heads up on the hatch problem, its on my list to "modify". Still waiting on some bits and pieces to finish mine up aswell as some more $$$$

catmanJim

My Feedback: (1)

Is anyone haveing trouble doing a snap roll, mine will not snap cg is 7 1/2 in back of le
Jim

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

I flew mine for about 8 mins yesterday before the engine started to overheat and lose power, [:'(] but I did get in a few tricks. Snaps?? heck yes, no problem...rolls almost as fast as my Shrike and KE's smooth as silk. Guess what else...not one click of trim on any surface.
Replacement engine is on order.