Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

Maudib..how did your EF Yak compare to this one

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

That's a loaded question...

The EF yak, in my opinion has no equal. Flying characteristics, wingloading, power to weight ratio, quality.... I still consider it the epitome of Yaks and in a class by itself.

To do a comparison of these just wouldn't serve either plane, as there are significant weight, size and cost differences. The Lanier exhibited excellent stabililty, though not quite the flawless level of the EF. Walled great, but perhaps had hint of wallowing. Felt a tinge of elevator snap when full (stupid) 3D rates were applied, but nothing radical... just a slight percievable wingtip drop.

I saw none of this at all with an EF.

Of course the power to weight is completely different.

I think it better to compare against other existing Yak offerings that are available (like the AM, AW, BMEaircraft and Aerotech) of which I cannot speak from direct experience.

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

YEP!!

Ive been trying to research some Yaks for a friend of mine in this class

Langster

Hi All,

Well I finally maidened my Yak after many months of waiting. I flew with a ZDZ 80 on a 26x10 Bambula prop. The engine is new and running very rich. There was not quite the power to weight that i hoped for and more pitch and roll coupling than expected. Particularly flying left to right or left wing high knife edge. The Yak does feel slightly heavy in the air which i might have expected, perhaps, but the rolls are very smooth and axial. I still have a lot more flights to trim the plane before I can really establish the flight characteristics.

The Yak did look great in the air and many other flyers commented on how sharp the plane looked on a perfect blue sky flying day as it was today in Perth, Western Australia.

I still look forward to many more flights and should be able to get a video from next weeks flights.

Thanks for the help and tips from Maudib and others.

Cheers

Lang

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

I'm still flying my Yak with the Fuji 64 A, 3-W 22x10 prop and it just keeps getting better with power. Takeoff is at half throttle and at full throttle the performance is awesome with unreal vertical. This thing has a snap that will get your and everybody else's attention real quick. [sm=eek.gif]
Since I did the mods on the LANDING GEAR BLOCK, it seems to be doing the job very well. Lanier, TAKE NOTICE!!!!!!

Big Oakden

My Feedback: (3)

After having read about 20 pages above this post,

Has anyone built this and flown it with a G62?

I have an engine looking for a plane, and have been looking at this one.

Any help that anyone could make would be appreciated.

Note: the G62 is all stock with exception of the muffler (it's a Brison (I think))

Dave

escutt

Yes. My son and I fly his with a G62. Only about 20 flights to date but the power is good. Over all performance is as expressed by everybody and great to fly. Obviously not a powerhouse on a verticle pull out from a hover, but all other performance aspects are good to excellent. Lacks for nothing in IMAC sequences. Has been a joy to fly. Still trimming but no complaints at all. Most flying is 1/3 to 1/2 throttle swinging a APC 22x10 at 7700 RPM. Verticle is unlimited at full throttle, constant speed up and back down. Weight is over 20 lbs, but I forget what it was. No modifications except the bad tail wheel to date. Not over 21lbs. however Not a raw power 3D machine but a blast to fly! Great fun, great performance, great price for the combination.

jtsails

My Feedback: (2)

Hello Guys,
I've got a couple of questions I need help with. I had a really good crash with my Lanier 30% edge (total loss) so I ordered a new Yak to replace it. I've never setup a plane with dual servos on a single surface, what's the best way to do this, separate channels for each servo ( Futaba 9c so I do have enough channels) or an equalizer (what brands work well). Secondly, if I decide to go with a single rudder servo, how much torque will I want to have.
I'm going to use the engine off the edge on this plane, it's a FPE 4.2 and I'll probably use the servos I had also, Futaba 9252, at least for the ailerons. I can also reuse the ohio tailwheel ass. off the old plane, any other suggestions?
Thanks
James

AirWizard

My Feedback: (3)

Use a Y cable on the ailerons and a 300oz servo on the rudder

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

James,

I'd highly recommend the Smart Fly Equalizer II's (one for each wings half) to match your servo travel... They are really slick to use and allow you to setup virtually bind free throws. STandard "Y"s do not allow you to adjust for minor linkage/servo/horn placement differences and almost always induce some fighting between servos... (higher amp draw and heat generation... meaning lower flight time and overall torque applied as well as potential failure).

A HiTec 5955 is perhaps the best chice for rudder servo...

DadsToysBG

My Feedback: (35)

Tried to fly mine last sunday, but every time it would come up on speed the plane went right hard. Don't know why? I'n going to use a pull-pull on the tail wheel and twist the gear to get some toe in. What was thw mod on the gear block? Dennis

yarom

My Feedback: (82)

Any Matchbox or Equalizer works very well for this purpose.

I setup my Lanier with two Smartfly Equalizers (velcroed in the wing) and it was my first dual servo setup. Works fine and does not draw any extra power. The key is in making sure your aileron horns are setup equally, same length, straight and have same leverage vs. the servo arm.

If you go with single servo, use a 300Oz. one like the 5955 or 8611a. It's a huge rudder.

I don't think the 4.2 is exceptionally overpowered for this model. It invariably comes out heavy and is actually designed for a 60cc at the weight range of 18lbs. and up. A 75cc is not a stretch but you will have to make sure to balance properly. Most likley, the rudder servo will need to be in the tail and if you could bring the engine closer to CG by a few milimeters, that would help as well...

Any tailwheel is better than the butter-made one supplied with the kit. I also ended up replacing the main gear with CF as I got tired of bending it back.

One more point - I was unhapy with the 8/32 soft screws for the control surfaces and replaced them all with 10/32 and Dubro gear. Used Dubro heavy duty rudder horn setup as well.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Check to see that one tire isn't binding/rubbing...

DadsToysBG

My Feedback: (35)

Thats the first thing I looked at. Everything there is fine. I found that the cheap tail wheel would roll side to side. Will replace it with a good one. Really a shame the new 3-w55 was singing on the ground. Dennis

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Dennis, If you will flip back a few pages, I posted a mod for the gear block that I made to mine after the "peice of cheeze" that was originally installed gave way with me. I have had no more problems since I made that mod.
Have you checked the lateral balance of your plane? That may be a cause of your plane to torque to the right.

?....what are you guys doing to keep the anti-rotation pins from pulling out?

DadsToysBG

My Feedback: (35)

I re-glued mine and i think most of my problem was in the tail wheel. The springs arn't stong enough and the tire itself would flop side to side on turns. I'm going to re-place that and use a pull-pull as well Dennis

FishMan

My Feedback: (17)

Well I guess I can give my report on the Lanier Yak since I have about 30 flights on her.

My Setup

Taurus 4.2 w/pitts wrap around and C&H Ignition
24X8 Xoar prop
5-Hitec 5955`s all the way around One on rudder and one on each aileron,two on elevators.
1 Hitec 5645 on throttle
SWB 1/14" arms and Titanium turnbuckles
A mix of Dubro HD and Sullivan HD Hardware (I like the arms and pivots off the Dubros and the capture nuts off the Sullivans)
JR mixer for the Elevator halves
6 Volt 2500 Mah NimH on Ignition w/switch
Dual 6 Volt Sanyo HR-4/5FAUP 1950 NiMH w/dual switches for flight controls.
1- Hitec 8 Channell Dual Conversion Reciever
Tru Turn 4" P-51 Spinner
SWB Titanium axles
24 oz. Dubro tank
3.5" Sullivan Skylights on mains
1.5" Sullivan Skylight w/sullivan tailwheel assy.

With wheel pants AUW is 21.5 LBS dry.

Whats Junk or needs to be corrected:

All the hardware, toss it.
Landing gear plate is weak. I beefed mine up with 1/4" hardwood stock and 30 minute epoxy. Holding well.
Firewall needs reinforcement if going with a larger motore 60 c.c. and up.
Wheels are weak, mine split the hubs on its 3rd landing. The Skylights have proven worthy of our very rough grass field.
Tailwheel assy is complete junk.
Canopy attachment is cheezy at best. I knocked out the lil blind nuts on the tabs, glued a small piece of hardwood to the backside and taped it for a 6/32 Nylon bolt. Added a strip of velcro to the back side to help with vibration. Works like a champ.
Cowl attachment is about as good as the canopy, same thing, knocked out the blind nuts and tapped the blocks for 10/32 Nylons, and added two more blocks.

Lightening mods I made.

Lightened the canopy by taking material out of the cockpit floor and firewall.
Lightened the rudder block as Maudib shows earlier in this thread.
Single Aileron servo per wing.

Flight report:

Even though this ARF does have some issues with construction, it is a performer! Maudib hits it right on the nail head in his report for RCU. Not a true 3d machine but one helluva IMAC monster with a big puffer on the nose. Knife edge, harrier, walls,flat spins, blenders are all very crisp, mine will hover well at 1/2 throttle but is a lil doggy on the climb out (new motor is still comin on strong) I expect this to improve after a few more gallons. Verticle is very good aswell.

Video on about its 15th flight
http://cferrara.com/northernknights/videos/fishyak.wmv

Pic


I started at the recommended C.G. and have quickly moved it back to 7 3/4" behind the leading edge. Im very close here, flys hands off in level upright and a slight push inverted (the way I like it.)

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Great looking plane there fishman....now lesseee...ummm, where have I seen one of those??
I agree also, one huckuva flyer...smooth as silk in just about every aspect of flight. The Fuji 64 in mine will pull it vertical just about as far as you want to go with it.

jtsails

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the advice guys! I think I'll be using the Smartfly EQ's. I'll wait to see on the servos until I get it assembled and balanced. I'm also going to use a smartfly regulator and a LiPo battery for the receiver. I talked to Robert at Smartfly this afternoon to get his recommendations and he was extremely helpful, gave good advice without pushing unnecessary purchases, most impressive! Plane should arrive tomorrow or Fri.
Thanks
James

jtsails

My Feedback: (2)

Well guys,
The plane arrived at the LHS thursday afternoon and it is beautiful, however, Lanier hasn't addressed the packing issues at all. The box with the wings and stabs had almost no packing in it and one of the stabs had come loose and punched a hole in the covering on the top of one of the wings. Oh well, I'll get it next week, which isn't that big a deal since I'm waiting for the ignition module to come back from being repaired by CH.
James

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Yep, another niche that Lanier needs to take care of. They just don't seem to take their packaging seriously.

FishMan

My Feedback: (17)

I had the same problems, busted up cowl,wing anti rotation dowels were knocked out of both wings and several holes punched through the covering on the wings....and that was this last March. I would have thought they would have addressed those issues by now.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

I was lucky. The only problem that I had with mine was a small crack in the canopy which I easily repaired with a drop of CA and a strip of black trim tape. Now, again guys...what are you doing to keep the anti-rotation pins from backing out of the wings???? I tried CA, but it's not holding.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Mine (if I recall) didn't have anything but a small clip or two in the paint arond the "vents" molded in the cowl...

IFly... Options options...

If they are loose enough to pull out... make a doubler disc to go INSIDE the wing similar to the doubler on the inside of the fuse (if you somehow reach in and can fit them in there)... sand the dowels slightly to rough them up and epoxy them back in place... if you have milled fiberglass, you might add some to the epoxy and dribble a little on the inside perimeter if the dowel.

Another thought is to drill a SMALL hole (1/16" maybe) at an angle from the root of the wing about 1/4" away from the dowel angled down into the dowel. Epoxy and pin with a toothpick... then sand it smooth to the root. (one should be enough to prevent it from slipping again) See pic

Last option... replace with hardwood dowel. (You might have to turn it in a drill with sandpaper until the right diameter...


Sometimes CF can be a real pain to get anything to "stick to". That's why I am leary of the CF mods used to "strengthen" wooden parts as if the glue slips.. .you're worse off than before.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Maudib...I'm gonna opt for the "last option" hardwood dowels. I know they won't move.