rmh

You will be fine -as for break in -forget that idea - just setup the engine to run -on the ground about 8200 or more -just as it cleans out - remember -the plane has to be a bit rich -always -for any vectored flying as the prop stays loaded -not unloaded as in level or downlines.
I changed to light gear and redid tailwheel to a modified Dubro -the stock one just couldn't take setting down tail first and the little plactic tab broke.
The plane flies great . If you think carving out any of the fuselage will save weight - forget it.
I don't know where any real weight savings could be done-other that the landing gear . Mine is now just over 9.5 lbs checked it the scales a few times yesterday while I was rebalancing it
The recommended CG is the aft limit for my taste - and it really wants to sink tail low on moderate landing speed as the only negative part of that CG
Idid a new battery mount at the wing tube -to allow switching batt forward 10" which changes cg about 1/2" . This is handsdown the best slow speed 3D model I have had -

Balsa Steel

My Feedback: (3)

Me carve on the fuselage? Nooooo! That's no man's land for me! (Other than cutting out the canopy floor and that's only because you did). What I meant was maybe losing the ball links, and some other nit picky stuff. Looks like I'll have to do something different with the mains after all, since I only have an inch of prop clearance on the bench, and my runway is grass. How many inches aft of the leading edge are you running your CG? Or anyone else for that matter?

rmh

Ihave flown this a fair bit now - and the 7.5 " does not bother me but it is sensitive/will tuck quite a bit with no mix.
I really recommend -If this stuff is new to you - start at 6.5 " back and make that with the battery forward . then -- setup another lite ply tray aft --such that you can simply unstrap -move batt aft . Also setup the entire model for about 30 degrees, max throws with lots of expo ----- on really good servos
then if it all feels good -redo linkages to increase throw . using crummy servos 'low voltages and big throws will make the plane simply awful. I much prefer Sullivan clevis -light easy to do -allows HD plastic servo horns and they will never accidently pop of the arm they are very strong -The H9 ones are quite soft and OK if you are careful . the ball links just add offset torque -so -into the spares drawer they went. I use em on my big planes .
The 125's -on all JRsetup with no Y harnesses and 6 v is really good and the model will easily run thru a knife edge loop .
On my 1650 JR NIMH pack -this makes a noticable difference .
I have about 150 inch ounces of torque and the servos are all at 125% at full throw on surfaces
This will work with any decent servo and the125 is a terrific servo IF you setup with JR rx and no Y harnesses -otherwise the deadband may be too tight . Mine work flawlessly and the meaal geartrain is still absolutely tight.
If you fly very slowly -as I do - you need LOTS of instant power on tap - gas/glo/electric-makes no difference.
so do not use big prop - the 18x6 Pro Zinger ain't bad - and even narrowing it to resemble Mejzlic works very well and overall performance increases.
fun fun model !

Balsa Steel

My Feedback: (3)

It's going to be a little harder for me to adjust my CG. Mine came out a little nose heavy. I have the fuel tank (10 oz) behind the wing tube, the ignition, and its battery inside the motor box, and the receiver and its battery all the way back on the first bulkhead behind the cockpit and the CG came out just shy of 7 inches. That's why I was wondering where others fly their CG's. I guess I can start with that, then maybe bring the ignition battery back to the wing tube to push the CG aft a little more. If I get it too far aft on my profiles, they have a tendency to try to pop into a hover in rolling harriers. BTW, I'm running Hitec HS-645MG's at 4.8 volts (107 oz). No "Y" harnesses and using ailevator for more roll authority in slow and high alpha flight.

rmh

go for it - mine is wobbly on high alpha but as long as you are rolling it -it is fine
the flat spin stuf is very easy to speed up /slow down .

bigbuster

My Feedback: (12)

I have a Question that is off the subject but I need an answer.
Has anyone had any problems with the tail section rigging/carbon supports on his or her plane. I mean has anyone had it dome off or get loose?

Thanks
Jeff

Balsa Steel

My Feedback: (3)

Firsthand? No. But I have heard the carbon supports have come out on some planes.

STG

My Feedback: (26)

Remember the stock recommended setting is assuming that you are going to start out with 16oz of fuel in the nose(stock tank in stock location).

Mine is at 6.875 with the fuel tank behind the wing tube--This is a good 3D setting. The tail is very sensitive for precision stuff though. I added 8oz to the nose of my plane(not sure what this did to the CG exactly), but the plane flew so much better--(handles Sportsmans IMAC sequence great with forward CG). It also 3D'd very well at the forward CG setting.

I think with your fuel tank behind the wing tube you will not want a CG any further back than what you have right now.

STG

My Feedback: (26)

One of the fist things I did was string my start up hold down strap reversed and ripped both of of them out.[:@] When I put them back in I made up some blocks for them to enter into at the fuse out of hard wood. After over 100 flights they are still solid.

Balsa Steel

My Feedback: (3)

STG,
Good point concerning the CG, I never thought of it that way. I made some changes on mine, and also replaced my mini tank with the stock tank. The fuel line in the smaller tank was so short that the clunk wouldn't move. I'll have to find some more pliable gasoline line because it doesn't do much better in the stock tank. I'm at 10lb 4oz now with the larger tank and added fueler valve. I should be able to maiden this pig Saturday, with post flight debrief to follow.

STG

My Feedback: (26)

At 10 pounds 4 oz it is no Pig. You should be a very happy camper at your elevation!!!

Balsa Steel

My Feedback: (3)

Well after running the motor today, 10lbs 4oz seems like an awfully light plane for this thing! It pulls HARD on the ground! I'm looking forward to getting it in the air. The only thing I don't like is the somewhat slow transition. It's not really "slow", but it's certainly not as snappy as the Saito 4 strokers I'm used to. Milliseconds make a huge difference when you're low and slow... I'm sure when the motor loosens up, and I get used to 2 strokes, it won't be so much a problem (I hope). Saturday's weather looks like South winds 15-25 and gusty, just another day in Oklahoma.[sm=rolleyes.gif] Looks like it's on for a maiden.

STG

My Feedback: (26)

What, no thrust or RPM #'s again![:@]

What are you using for a prop?

I am convinced that if Dick can pull a solid 16pounds @ 4,500feet this motor can pull closer to 17.5 to 18 at sea level on a good day. I would just like to see it done is all.

erikpmort

My Feedback: (52)

not only is 7.5 sensitive, (CG) but it also tends to ballon at that setting... thats what i had before, and then just moved the batt. from the wing tube location to under the fuel tank, and now it doesn't really ballon on landing and still seems to have all the sensitivity i need on the tail... i would be interested to see what it is at..... always forget to measure (oh this is with a ys 110 btw)

Balsa Steel

My Feedback: (3)

Pulls HARD man! And LOTS of R's!!

Seriously, I don't own a tach, so I can't give you those numbers. And I have no clue how to read that silly red light that comes with this motor. Maybe my buddy will bring his tach out Saturday and I'll get some numbers to ya. I think my Pops has a fish scale and we'll try to get some thrust numbers too. Although I don't know how accurate a fish scale will be to measure thrust? I've never ever been a numbers man, but gaining some passing interest since this Evo Funtana project. The prop I'm starting out with is a Dynathrust 18-6, but I'll switch to a wood prop when I get taller landing gear.

STG

My Feedback: (26)

Do yourself a favor and order some Skorepa 18x6's --very nice price & great prop. http://www.escomposites.com/products.htm

My Rapala 50lb fish scale has been within 1oz @2.5,5,7.5,10,12.5,15 & 17.5 pounds each time it has been tested.

I know this because I have a 2.5,5 and 10 pound weight I took into Fred mayer and Abersons and had them weigh on their commercial scale so I have some standards.

rmh

The "silly red light" is a very handy tool.
Each time you switch the ignition on - it should flash brightly -once -that says the batt is up to snuf and the ignition just fully charged ready to start. A dull glow means your batt is down-----
IF------you point a regular optic tach directly at the light --- an inch away - on two blade setting --it will read a number -that number is 1/2 of actual rpm
why?
because the tachs read two blades for usual readings -the "red light" flashes once each time the ignition pulses .
Any reading once the engine stops but ignition is not switched off--is max rpm during that run sequence - so whilst running -you can read the tach and after running -you can read MAX rpms acheived.
switching the ignition OFF resets the tach .
very useful

Balsa Steel

My Feedback: (3)

OK, I went and looked again at the instruction book for info on the red light, and it's in there plain as day. Who's silly now? I guess I need to invest in a tach. Concerning the fish scale, I just figured most of them were like tire guages, where unless you spent megabucks for a precision model, if you had 5 different ones, you'd get 5 different pressures. But like I said, I'm not a numbers man, so I don't have any of this equipment. ('cept a tire guage!) I'll see what I can come up with, since I'm getting curious about the figures myself.

STG

My Feedback: (26)

Here is promising footage of Jamie Turner with his MVVS26/pipe Giles. 11 pounds and about 300 feet above sea level.

http://home.comcast.net/~ccrsfield/GILES1.wmv

rmh

yep -that looks really good ! mine is a bit quicker - but lighter and with more power - so you doubters -- now what?
Here is my last glow fueled model--now running a electric motor and a 2.4 gig radio.

STG

My Feedback: (26)

I know you are lighter, but you are at 4,000+ feet...why do you think you have more power?

rmh

Woops - his is also piped -- I thot it looked good - so power is about the same - I am running more revs on the Skorepa than the Mejzlic will turn and at 9.5 lbs now -it is very quick.
Not putting that 202 down -it looked great!

STG

My Feedback: (26)

@9.5 pounds it would be ballistic at sea level. He is @11 pounds but is running with 5oz balance weight....could make it down to 10.5 with CF pipe. He must have got a light one?

I think I have to weigh mine again....Last time it was 6.5 bare. If I could make the scale say 5.5 it would work.

rmh

give it an enema -

Balsa Steel

My Feedback: (3)

Well mine's finally slipped the surly bonds! No video yet, but it's so windy here right now, it's not even fun to fly. The roll out on landing was an honest 12" and that was a wheel landing, not a 3 point. The power is marginal, but acceptable. Depends on your flying style. I'm used to Saito (over) powered profiles, so that's why I say marginal, but at the same time, it will 3D this plane, that's why I say it's acceptable. It pulls about like your buddies Giles in that video. All in what you're used to I guess. Maybe on a calmer day I can put it on the deck and get a better feel for it. So far I give it a B- to a B.