randy racer

My Feedback: (3)

i didn't get the wieght but it's alot lighter than a servo and linkage. it's not hard to do just cut a slot in both elevator halves and slide the alum stock in and glue. make sure your halves are straight, if off a little you can bend the alum to line up. i found the alum stock a lowes and put a 4-40 screw and lock nut through both side to help hold it in place. i wish i could get pic for you, i may see if i can figure out how to do that tonight.

randy

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

I've seen som ehave good success with something like this:



Bascially turns a single pushrod into controlling 2 elevator halves... Removes BOTH servosw in the tail and this is installed ahead of the stab some. Then a single pushrod is used to a servo up near CG.

I am NOT suggesting this... just an option for those who might be so inclined.

I'd say mount your engines way out and be careful with added weight, and lets just seee another coupole come in before we jump to the conlcusion that aANY hoops need jumped through.

TedG

Maudib - Did as you said - Had a friend help lift it from the wing tips on the rear most 3D recommendation. Its definitely not as tail heavy. Apparently my theory about drawing a line from wing tip to wing tip to establish a wing root mark is not workable with this airplane.

Thanks to the other viewers offering suggestions on this problem. My suggestion would be before you make any major modifications to the design that you put the plane together as per the instructions. I put the Hitech 5945 servos in the tail and they are probably the culprit. Very strong but very heavy. They are probably an overkill for the elevator.

Hopefully I can madien mine tomorrow if the weather improves. I'll keep you posted.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

That's good news Ted,

Yeah it can be harder than you think to properly stretch a line across the wings when onthe fuse and get an accurate reading...

Good deal then... let us know how the maiden goes... hope your weather if fine as frog hair...

Always flying

My Feedback: (22)

O.K.....i've got one comming,should be here in less than 2 weeks (In Canada EH!) anyways been contemplating a motor..what do you guys think about the MVVS 45 it only weighs 1290 grams less than the 3w 28 and the mvvs 35 i have this motor in the great planes cap 232 and it runs smooth with plenty of power! your imput is important!!


cheers!!

mannyh

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

It's really too big of an engine for this airframe. Could it be done? Yes... But after some comparison... It seems the 45 ends up the same weight as a DA50 install.

It'll end up nearly 1/2 lb more as it will take a heavier muffler and prop than a 28 and is already almost 4 oz heavier to start.

I think the 3W-28 would be the largest gasser I'd consider in order to maintain the wingloading... as I personally think it would be the "high end" of wingloading I'd accept.

This is a hard size airplane to go gas on for this very reason... if the engines could JUST be a little lighter in the 28cc-35cc range... by 8 oz maybe... it would be GREAT.

If BME can do a 2.1 lb 55cc... it sure would be something if they could do a 1.75 lb 35cc...

Til then, if you go gas, you gotta keep it as LIGHT as possible. The problem with gas... is that guys try and sya "it's only a little heavier than such-and-such" then turn around and say a 1650 ignition battery is only such and such heavier, and a 20 oz tyank is only such and such heavier....

In the end these 1 oz, and 2 oz heavier items add up to a full lb... and on this plane can be the difference of awesome and mediocre performance.

It really seems that the 3W28 would be the best gas selection available... and even then I'd keep everything light... a 2 cel lipoly on ignition (if the ignition didn't require a voltage reg. (otherwise a 4 cell 720 nimh).

2 cell lipo for the receiver.

Light light light...

I would also consider a ZDZ 40RV-FAI when it comes available this summer... 2.4 lbs rear exhaust with a tiny slimline muffler...

xxsnookxx

from my research the evo 26gt or mvvs 26 are the most powerful and lightest motors in the class...1100 grams with ignition and batteries rated at 3.8 hp but ive heard this is only obtained with tuned pipe not a viable option here but the bisson inverted with 24x volume were very close....the 3w28 is 1290 grams with ignition and rated at 2.75 hp maybe im wrong here but the 26 is a better choice on paper...was also looking at the brison 2.4 but i think it would be over doing the wing load but it would climb like a rocket.....2.75 lbs. 4.2 hp...

akschu

My Feedback: (5)

Crap, I glued the H stab in upside down!!! I can't believe I did this. What next, should i just live with it or should I break out my debonder and try and get it out?

akschu

My Feedback: (5)

The glue didn't have much time to dry so I tied to remove it, but it's flat in there. I guess half of my plane is going to be upside down... this sucks.

xurifle06

My Feedback: (10)

I just got my engine for this the other day off od rcu. Its a 3w-24. i have one question. What size fuel tank should i run with this size engine? thanks for the help

Rich

EMVIN

OK, almost had a Maiden today. My Plane weighed in at 11lb 11oz with the Saito 220. Took it to the field today hoping to get in the air. Worked on the engine with one of our club pro's. we started with a pro zinger 18 X 8 this prop was not balanced very well and there was much vibration so we decided to change props. I had a Pro zinger 20X6. mounted it up, fired it up and all was well much less vibration Great. Here is were the trouble started. once the engine was running smooth and reliable we were ready for flight. started take off, was just about airborne when the prop nicked the ground and broke. Now the plane was in the air and there was not much prop left. It came in for a hard landing and snapped the landing gear from the fuselage...........
NOT ENOUGH GROUND CLEARANCE WITH A 20" PROP. You may get away with it on a paved runway but not at our field........It was an easy fix and is done already.... Next time I will be using an 18.......

The Saito 220 has increadable power... I will let everyone know how the next attempt goes.......EMVIN

TedG

Maidened mine today. 11 lbs 7 oz dry - YS 140 sport with 17x4w prop (trying to keep it slow in the begining) - Hitec 5945s all around with Hitech 225 on the throttle - gas tank that came in the kit. Half throttle to take off. Very sensitive ailerons with recommended throws (low rate) had 50% expo. but not enough. I'll be increasing them to 80% and reducing the throws until I get used to things. Need more elevator throw than recommended - the 8 mm is not enough. As it turns out it ended up a touch nose heavy at 178mm CG. The motor quit as I was on base to final bringing it in to make the adjustments - landed ok in spite of blind panic. It died again on the walk out to take off the second time, so I decided to solve that problem before it goes up again. Seemed very stable but frankly I was too nervous to give a good evaulation from the one flight.

Hope this helps


Ted

Always flying

My Feedback: (22)

Ted,


Do you think the ys 1.40 is enough power to 3D or just freestlye flying? i'm so up in the air about motor choice!

thanks mannyh

DiscoWings

My Feedback: (76)

YS 140 is what the website recomends so it should definatley be enough I would think...

I personnaly say go with electric... nice clean consistant power...[&:]

TedG

Always Flying

The YS 140 should be more than enough. I suspect with the performance I had on the maiden, that it will have almost unlimited verticle.

jeyre

Akschu,

I did this exact error with my GP Ultimate, just 2 weeks ago. Nice to see someone else gets wrapped up in things and misses the obvious . Anyway, I actually stripped my horizontal stab, careful to keep as much of the covering intact as possible, then used the removed covering as templates to cut new covering. When I finished you could not even tell that I put it in upside down. OK it added 2 or 3 hours to the build but it was worth it.

John

shakes268

Someone did the exact same thing with the 85" QQ Yak - he posted a few pics - ended up redoing the covering on it I believe.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Roger what these guys are saying...

Hopefully you didn't also hinge the elevators yet, as they can still be installed correctly... just strip the covering and flip it over.

If you are careful you can do this:

1) Trim right to the edge of the fuse... VERY carefuly with a sharp knife as to NOT score the balsa underneath. This is CRITICAL if you score the underlying balsa sheeting too much, it will weaken and perhaps cause a stab failure... (not a good thing)

2) Slice the covering along the bevel in one slice (it's O.K. to ***** into the balsa here.

3) Peel the covering away from the stab in one piece... apply a LITTLE CA to the stab where you cut around the fuse to perhaps repair where you MIHGT have cut a hair intot he stab sheeting.

4) Repeat steps 1-3 forthe other stab side

5) Flip the covering "skins" over and apply them to the opposite side of the stab. You might need a few little strips of white to "seam" where the covering goes back in place. Just cut maybe 1/4" strips and fold them so there is a crease down the middle of each strip... iron this into the corner of the fuse/stab acting as a fillet to tie the fuse covering and stabd covering back togetehr and prevent fuel/snot form seeping into the wood at this seam.

Take your time and only you will know the difference.

akschu

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks for the help guys, stripped the covering on one side and was able to completely keep it in tact, so I'll just iron it onto the other side then seal the seams on the backside with the clear ultracote.

xxsnookxx

how did the plane look in the air highly visible or not? from my experience purple tends to dissapear in the sky..just curious.. glad to hear some flight reports coming back lets keep em going good job guys...i finished a small reinforcement of the gear block tonight should be flying soon.

akschu

My Feedback: (5)

stripping the covering worked just fine now I'm working on hinging stuff, but the hinge slots aren't deep enough. Did others find this too? I have a slot hinging machine so it's not a big deal, just one extra step.

RICK9303

My Feedback: (172)

My Yak is almost built and Since I never ran a OS 1.60, I could use some suggestions on props for 3d, and props for IMMAC aerobatics.

Thanks Rick

randy racer

My Feedback: (3)

on my 72" yak with a 160 the menz 18-6 seems to work the best for 3d and still does the imac stuff to. i tried several props before i settled on the menz, the bolly 19-6 composite prop cut down to around 18 1/2 also works great.

menz 18-6 = 9500rpm
bolly 18.5-6 = 9300 rpm

10% nitro

randy

EMVIN

To all........Successful maiden flight!!! I finally got this bird off the ground. Once trimmed out the plane flew very stable with no bad snap tendencys.. did a few simple rolls, knife edge, a wall and hover.....It worked out well...It landed like a dream with two clicks on the throttle it was enough for a perfect touchdown........I'm glad to have that over with!!!!! Cant wait to get out there again I need a few more flights to really become one with it...........EMVIN.......

randy racer

My Feedback: (3)

thats great news emvin, you are going to love the little yak. keep us posted.

randy racer