twistr

My Feedback: (4)

The Brison will pull the wings off. Power is phenominal. I did not put any extra weight in mine like smoke etc, tried to keep it as light as possible. I love my Brison!

polakowa

Anybody have experience or opinions on the DL50 engine. Pretty close weight to the DA50 and much cheaper. I have heard good things elsewhere? What you guys think. Also would a 22 x 8 prop be the best selection here.
See link:

http://www.dlusa.net/

twistr

My Feedback: (4)

In my short r/c career, what little gassers I''ve been exposed to, Brison and DA are the best. But that Evolution gasser is coming in very good as well.

The DA50 will be an excellent motor and will give you plenty of power and years of good service. There''s a couple flying in my club.

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

The DL50 has been working out great for a lot of people, myself included. I have two of them, one of which is on the Cap. Power is not an issue. Service and support out of Bob at DLUSA is excellent. Below is a link to the second thread on the DL50, the first one got shut down after 100 pages because one person wouldn''t stop being political. I''m running both a ProZinger and a Xoar 22x8 props. I''m considering trying a 23x6 prop for 3D.

Chuck

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6493058/tm.htm

DRC1

My Feedback: (10)

Well it's been awhile since I posted on this thread, about a year. It's been sitting on the bench that long, but I'm moving on it again. Going to try to bring it in under 15.5 lbs w/ a DA 50. I should make it pretty easy. If I'm not off too much on my weights and don't use too much epoxy I should be good. It should be closer to about 15.25 lbs. I will be flying IMAC with it this year. Hope to have it ready in a couple of weeks.

I've read this thread a number of times and thank all that has posted...

LLD

smokedat

I have some acessories from this plane up for sale. real cheap there just taking up space.i have the alum gear and carbon gear. i also have the rear stabs, and both wings, one has tip damage. its repairable. I was trying to do a harrier landing droped in to fast and broke the fuse, didnt want to bother repearing it so i junked this one and got a Dietrich Extra 260. any one interested or need pics PM me [email protected]

polakowa

Hey people,

Can anyone explain to me what the instructions are trying to indicate in regards to mounting the cowl. It mentions scres and tube and for some reason the holes on the fuselage where never drilled completely for the cowl to mount. Is ther esupposed to be a blind nut there?

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

I have a checking question on balancing the 232g. I've been flying the plane with the cg set at the middle of the recommended range, and she is just too squirely. I'm moving the cg to the front of the recommended range as suggested in early posts and the review. It needs 7oz of weight on the engine box to balance and I'm wondering if anyone else has needed that much weight. DL50 with a Bison wrap around muffler, one A123 battery for ignition/Rx mounted on the firewall, and nothing else different.

DRC1

My Feedback: (10)

Where did you mount the Rudder Servo? In the tail or did you go Pull/Pull from the back of the canopy area?

LLD

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

I used pull/pull on the rudder with the servo under the canopy.

DRC1

My Feedback: (10)

I hate adding weight...If you are using the stock tail wheel remove it and replace it with a weight of 1 ounces...I am using a "RC Blimp Titanium Tail Wheel Assembly" which is 30 grams. The stock tail wheel is weak (reading the threads) and weighs 45 grams. I'm saving 15 grams on the tail for this. I also used H9 titanium pushrods for the elevators with a savings of 5 grams. It doesn't seem like a lot. But when you start adding this up it just under 3/4 ounces in the tail. The total difference of adding weight to the nose or reducing weight in the tail is 7.71 ounces, almost a 1/2 pound.

I'm not far enough to get a CG balance yet. But a .71 ounce savings that far back is a lot compared to adding weight up front.

I would be curious on how it balances out. Hopefully giving you the actual weights from my parts can help you make the decision before committing $50 for the weight savings...

Another big place to save weight is your elevator servo selection. Don't sacrifice servo torque for weight savings though...

Hope this helps...

LLD

***Edited to correct the first line from, "...and replace it with a weight of 3/4 ounce..." with "and replace it with a weight of 1 ounce...". This should represent the actual weight on the tail if replacing with the part I'm using...Sorry for the confusion...

DRC1

My Feedback: (10)

I measured the distance from the forward CG to the tail which was close to 1200mm to the the tail wheel. 6-1/8 inch (forward CG) is about the center of the wing tube and approx 250mm to the front of the fire wall. If my math is correct:

1200/250=4.8 leverage factor

4.8 x .71 = 3.4 ounces of weight in the nose you should save by reducing the tail .71 ounces.

I think this is correct, but I would prove it on a balance stand...

LLD

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

Ok, I was wrong! I made a 7oz weight and went to attach it to the motor box. Turns out the ignition/Rx battery is mounted to the back side of the wing tube, not on the firewall as stated earlier. Anyway, I decided to go ahead and mount the 7oz weight and if the handling is better, I'll move the ignition/Rx battery on to the firewall and shed most of the 7oz.

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

Well the plane definitely flies better with the cg at the forward location listed the manual, so I will have to go back in move the ignition battery to the firewall and remove the 7oz weight. I'll do that at the same time I repair the landing gear which ripped off much to my shock. The plane landed real nice and smooth, no bounce, and was almost stopped, then the landing gear ripped off. S..t! You guys might want to check the glue joints around your landing gear. It wont' take long to fix, but I will need a new prop.

crhammond

My Feedback: (21)

I just picked up one of these to have something small that fits easily in my SUV so I don't have to haul my trailer with my 40% planes all the time. I fly IMAC but I have been wanting to learn more 3D (I have done some on faomies.) I have a DA50 sitting around so yesterday when I saw this plane on sale (wow $349 - thats cheap) I picked it up. I had the GP 33% Cap in 2006/2007 and it flew really well too. Sold it last winter.

How is the landing speed with the 20x12x3? That is what I ran on the 27% 260 a couple of years back and it was great. You may lose some power but these planes are so over powered with a DA50 that you don't even notice. I guess the main diappointment so far is I cannot see a way to fit a canister in there - there is just no room. So with a Slimline muffler (the best of the pitts IMO) it will be super loud without a 3-blade. It should help with nose weight having the 3-blade as well.

I also have a PT models 3.5" spinner and PT tailwheel both of which should help keep the weight off. I may have a CF tube that will work too...

I plan to use 8611's (I have them lying around), 1100 A123 on ignition, 2 x 1100 A123 on Rx, Wolverine switch, 608 FASST RX. Just a simple setup, no added weight (no smoke, no pilot, no dash etc.) Hopefully it comes in under 16lbs (15.5 would be great.)

Chris.

crhammond

My Feedback: (21)

Good news - I have a CF gear and a CF wing tube from my stock of old 50cc stuff that fit perfect. So now I am looking at some serious weight savings without spending any extra $$$.
I am considering using 2xA123 1100's into the Wolverine and running the Ignition and Rx from that. Saves a few more Oz's.

DLEVETT

My Feedback: (13)

Where did you buy one for $350?
I,ve been thinking about putting one together cause I,ve got a MVVS 45MG looking for a home.
thx
Dave

ggroyal1

You can get one from Advantage Hobby for $370 and I think free shipping. I have been flying mine for over one year with the Evolution 45gx2 engine.
http://www.advantagehobby.com/search...=search&page=1

Nice people, fast service.

George G. Royal

crhammond

My Feedback: (21)

Local Hobby Store. It had been sitting for a while so I got a deal.

I started on the plane already and it is going to fall together VERY quickly. It will fly some time next week for sure. I guess 3 evenings and it will be done. I hinged it and glued in the control horns already last night.
I might use the stock gear at first since it is already drilled for the wheel pants (I am super lazy on this one HA HA.) We'll see if it is worth the extra few oz to use the Graphtec gear.

Tonight I have some ironing to do, glue the canopy and probably set up the wings.

The quality is very nice - there is plenty of glue on all the visable joints. The langing gear plate looks VERY well glued in. I am glad there are no aluminum braces on the gear plate on this one! On wood airplanes it is much easier to repair a broken block - when they use aluminum more stuff breaks and it is often very hard to get at (like the 260.) Just in case it ever has a hard dead-stick.

Just looking at the fuse there is a weak spot right behind the canopy just past the rudder tray. There is not much material there at all. Normally it should be fine but if you ever slap the tail down on a harrier landing the fuse could crack. Has anyone beefed up this area?

ggroyal1

Throttle(left) and choke servos(right) and pull pull rudder servo

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

I have one for sale here on RCU, but it won't do you much good becausing shipping would run up the costs. The Cap is a very nice plane, very forgiving, and doesn't have the tip stalling characteristics that older Cap designs had. If you buy one, you will enjoy, besides it is a quick build.

Chuck

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemID=406602