The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
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The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
i got a hanger 9 tango i put in a FA-82a gk its all together. The CG 4 to 5 in. back from leading edge at the wing root i putt it on the CG its right in the middle 4.5 inches im holding the batt in my hand thinking about were to put it .um i found A place in the cg line but its up top side . the saito 82 is 462G 16.2oz the Evolution 52 Engine (Only) Weight: 411 G 14.5 oz the Evolution 46 comes in at Engine (Only) Weight: 390.G 13.76 oz t the 46 Muffler Weight:3.20 oz 90.7G they dont say how much the muffler is for the 52 .
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RE: The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
Well being on the cg is good, also remember if you plan on doing any knife edge you will want to center or at least balance the weight top and bottom where you need less imput with the elevator during KE passes. The more weight on the bottom of the plane, the more it pulls to the bottom, and the more on top the same, I try to keep all my weight on the center line as much as I can because they roll and track better for precision flight.
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RE: The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
Ok..Just started flying my Tango with a Magnum 70 4 stroke, plenty of power, and I must say I'm a little dissappointed over all. I'm using a 2500 MAH flite pack battery and originally put the pack right under the tank which proved to be a bit on the nose heavy side after flying it. I moved it back about maybe a half ahead from the spar, some better but still not the performance I'm wanting. I have LOT's of throw in my rudder and elevator, enough to make any other plane do some awesome snaps, but this thing just wants to "wallow" through them. Roll rate is fine. Any thoughts?
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RE: The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
the one i flew almost could not do a knife edge it was all over the place and like you said blistering fast roll crazy snaps but just not for me
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RE: The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
ORIGINAL: RXRCER
Ok..Just started flying my Tango with a Magnum 70 4 stroke, plenty of power, and I must say I'm a little dissappointed over all. I'm using a 2500 MAH flite pack battery and originally put the pack right under the tank which proved to be a bit on the nose heavy side after flying it. I moved it back about maybe a half ahead from the spar, some better but still not the performance I'm wanting. I have LOT's of throw in my rudder and elevator, enough to make any other plane do some awesome snaps, but this thing just wants to "wallow" through them. Roll rate is fine. Any thoughts?
Ok..Just started flying my Tango with a Magnum 70 4 stroke, plenty of power, and I must say I'm a little dissappointed over all. I'm using a 2500 MAH flite pack battery and originally put the pack right under the tank which proved to be a bit on the nose heavy side after flying it. I moved it back about maybe a half ahead from the spar, some better but still not the performance I'm wanting. I have LOT's of throw in my rudder and elevator, enough to make any other plane do some awesome snaps, but this thing just wants to "wallow" through them. Roll rate is fine. Any thoughts?
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RE: The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
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RE: The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
oh yes i for got to say this rolling the tango back to the pit i had the tail in my hand wheeling it to the charger when i let it go it snap ed the tail wheel wire and the closest part of the tail it could snap at [&o] the supper glue and lock tight let go in one of the motor mount holes
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RE: The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
The Tango, Sticks and Knife Edge.
High wing plane, even those without dihedral will roll in the direction of rudder. In knife edge, they will roll out. Most of them will also have pitch coupling and will pitch toward the top of the plane. If you aren't expecting this and aren't very experienced, the plane can be all over the place.
I don't have a Tango yet since they are on backorder, but I do have a few Sticks, including an Ultra Stick 40 that will do knife edge loops Since the Tango has a good bit of side area, I would imagine it will knife edge nicely and probably knife edge loop.
Roll coupling: A high wing location is the equivalent of about 3 degrees of dihedral on each side. It will cause roll with rudder. Sweep back will also cause roll with rudder as will real dihedral.
A low wing location, sweep forward and anhedral will cause roll opposite to the rudder. Build a low wing plane without dihedral or sweep and you'll see what I mean. Right rudder will give a left roll.
All this means that a high wing plane needs anhedral or something to cause an anhedral effect to kill the roll. On a wing that comes in 2 pieces with a dihedral brace, you can modify the dihedral brace for 3 degrees of anhedral as I do on my Sticks. See photos. On a 1-piece, flat wing plane, you'll need to add downward end plates. See photo. I would guess that 3/4" down would be about right. My test Little Stick needed that much.
For pitch coupling, you can try moving the CG rearward, but the best thing to do is to mix elevator with rudder. That's what I did on the UStick. It now does the knife edge loop with very little effort. I am using a 52 in-oz digital servo on rudder.
As for the one powered by a Magnum .70, I have that engine and it is 5 ounces heavier than a .46AX and 4 ounces heavier than an OS .55AX, plus it mounts slightly further forward due to the rear carb. This will tend to make the plane nose heavy. Add a heavy battery pack up forward and I am not surprised that the snaps are spirals. The plane must be really nose heavy. You might need to move the battery back into the rear fuselage, behind the wing.
High wing plane, even those without dihedral will roll in the direction of rudder. In knife edge, they will roll out. Most of them will also have pitch coupling and will pitch toward the top of the plane. If you aren't expecting this and aren't very experienced, the plane can be all over the place.
I don't have a Tango yet since they are on backorder, but I do have a few Sticks, including an Ultra Stick 40 that will do knife edge loops Since the Tango has a good bit of side area, I would imagine it will knife edge nicely and probably knife edge loop.
Roll coupling: A high wing location is the equivalent of about 3 degrees of dihedral on each side. It will cause roll with rudder. Sweep back will also cause roll with rudder as will real dihedral.
A low wing location, sweep forward and anhedral will cause roll opposite to the rudder. Build a low wing plane without dihedral or sweep and you'll see what I mean. Right rudder will give a left roll.
All this means that a high wing plane needs anhedral or something to cause an anhedral effect to kill the roll. On a wing that comes in 2 pieces with a dihedral brace, you can modify the dihedral brace for 3 degrees of anhedral as I do on my Sticks. See photos. On a 1-piece, flat wing plane, you'll need to add downward end plates. See photo. I would guess that 3/4" down would be about right. My test Little Stick needed that much.
For pitch coupling, you can try moving the CG rearward, but the best thing to do is to mix elevator with rudder. That's what I did on the UStick. It now does the knife edge loop with very little effort. I am using a 52 in-oz digital servo on rudder.
As for the one powered by a Magnum .70, I have that engine and it is 5 ounces heavier than a .46AX and 4 ounces heavier than an OS .55AX, plus it mounts slightly further forward due to the rear carb. This will tend to make the plane nose heavy. Add a heavy battery pack up forward and I am not surprised that the snaps are spirals. The plane must be really nose heavy. You might need to move the battery back into the rear fuselage, behind the wing.
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RE: The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
Very good post Ed. Lot's of info there. One other thing that I've done on top wing aerobatic type planes is to put slight bit of down, (yes DOWN) in both ailerons. Without digital or mixing, this causes the plane to track truer in rolls. It's sort of like automatic differential! Watch it in knife edge as yaw comes into effect. Pitch won't be a problem. Fly and trim is the best way to determine how much is needed. Some top/shoulder wing planes just fly better than others of similar design, so don't always expect this type of plane to do what they claim it will do. Look at your aerobatic mid and low wing planes. Fly similar but track usually straight and true. This reference was for the Tango, which I finally got mine to fly decent, but not really what I felt the plane was advertised to do. If you want this plane to really be a funfly type plane, it HAS to be on the tail heavy (NOT EXAGERATED...). Get it too tail heavy the plane will want to yaw on the balance axis and you'll be flying mostly with rudder just to keep it pointed in the direction you want it to go.
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RE: The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
nice pic 3 and 4 has S.F.G on the end my tribunt has that in the wing you can tell a big time on the ruder with and with out S.F.G . with out is real close to the twist and tango ... i have mixing flaprons is what the setings are on all of my planes that are not trainers ... and to see a supper stick doing rudder loops would be cool ...
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RE: The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
so move the cg back to 5 inches and fly it there it has a 1 inch cg 4 to 5 inches back or go past 5 i dont like it when you fly up side down and it climbs with no input
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RE: The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
Ed if your going to get the tango i say putt the saito 82 in it. it has a short nose . will the cg be in the middle middle of the 1 inch Cg range mine was
<<edit i see you got a os congrats on you marry xmas >>>
<<edit i see you got a os congrats on you marry xmas >>>
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RE: The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
Hey, hey, guys. I'm 70 years old and still getting excited about a toy airplane. The wife, bless her heart, got me a Tango and another OS .55AX for Christmas. I remember telling her they were on back order until January. She and the son had a laugh on me. They already had them stashed away in the attic.
I'll be adding the downward end plates to mine to correct the rudder roll. It'll probably take me a month to get it tested. Down here many of us winp out when the temperature gets into the lower 50s. Hey, I spent my time in snow and ice and I like it better when it's warm.
I'll be adding the downward end plates to mine to correct the rudder roll. It'll probably take me a month to get it tested. Down here many of us winp out when the temperature gets into the lower 50s. Hey, I spent my time in snow and ice and I like it better when it's warm.
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RE: The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
congrats >>> i was out flying to day it was a bit nippy out but it was good air to fly in i keep thinking what head to putt in the driver seat
#21
RE: The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
just got a tango and flew it for the first time last monday. I was impressed with how much assembly is already done for you. The hardware looked decent too. I think I had everything ready in less than two hours. For ease of assembly, I give the Tango an "A". The model flew decent, but not that great. One thing I was surprised to see was how much plywood was used in construction. Im guessing ply is cheaper than balsa. It took me a little while to trim out in the air but nothing too difficult. I did notice the model tended to snap to the right at low speed. Anyone have the same experience? I had a thunder tiger pro .46in the nose and needed to add about 1.5oz of lead in the nose to get it to balance at about 4.5 inches from the LE. It did require some rudder to keep the nose pointing in the right direction, but thats no big problem. Overall, it wasnt a bad little ARF. I expected a little more as far as performance but its hard to complain for what you get for about $120.
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RE: The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
You are right about the pre-assembly that's done. It looks more like an RTF without the radio and engine installation. Even the pushrods are cut to length, bent with the clips installed and the clevices screwed in place. The hinges are already glued in. The Tango is really "Almost Ready to Fly."
Mine is taking a little longer because the digital servos I am using are slightly larger than the servo holes so I am having to trim them out.
One thing I noticed is that the Tango has more wing area than the Ultra Stick 40. Very wide chord.
Mine is taking a little longer because the digital servos I am using are slightly larger than the servo holes so I am having to trim them out.
One thing I noticed is that the Tango has more wing area than the Ultra Stick 40. Very wide chord.
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RE: The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
I am going to use an e flite 46 in mine. I just finished my speed controller using a castle creations 60 amp controller. The tango will be my first large plane with e power. The plane sure went together fast it should be alot of fun. You guys should see my girlfriends cat when i run up the motor it just streaks across the house. I have been wanting to do a 40 size electric for a long time the tango has made it really easyfor me to do this just to bad we have snow on the ground. I went over to the church parking lot where i fly alot and there is puddles of water everywhere. No flying today but hopefully the water freezes and i can give it a go tommorow. I should have scooped the flying field snow off this week since im on vacation this week.
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RE: The Tango 40 ARF from Hangar 9
I am going to use an e flite 46 in mine. I just finished my speed controller using a castle creations 60 amp controller. The tango will be my first large plane with e power. The plane sure went together fast it should be alot of fun. You guys should see my girlfriends cat when i run up the motor it just streaks across the house. I have been wanting to do a 40 size electric for a long time the tango has made it really easyfor me to do this just to bad we have snow on the ground. I went over to the church parking lot where i fly alot and there is puddles of water everywhere. No flying today but hopefully the water freezes and i can give it a go tommorow. I should have scooped the flying field snow off this week since im on vacation this week.