godwin85

I know this is the new question out but does anyone have any prewarnings on this plane. I have already bought on but haven't put it together yet, I plan to put a OS 91FX in it. So far that is as far as I have gotten.

Shortman

My Feedback: (21)

dont buy it.... thats my warning, right now GP has to do some rethinking, many peoples planes are coming delivered DAMAGED, why? because of the way it is stored in the box.. right now i would wait

GoldenEagle

My Feedback: (1)

I'm about a day away from a first flight but more hurricane weather is due in our area- phuuuttt! Here's my experience with the UCD3D: Praise - There was no damage, very few covering wringles, and the overall quality is very good. Problems - The wing mounting block in the fuselage was missing, the paint on one side of the cowl does not align with the fuse stripe, the light blue stripe on the rudder did not align with the fuse. I notified GP about the wing block and after three e-mails was told to send it back for inspection - #$%& that! I just made and drilled my own - no big deal but it p!$$@# me off. Some early production problems are to be expected but obviously no one is inspecting the kits before they leave. Unusual for GP to have these problems.

I'll fire back after a few flights.

Sojourner

I haven't had the pleasure of flying it yet, but a friend of mine has bought and flown a UCD3D, the other guys at the field love it, and say it is a MUST OWN. Some of these guys own 40% Extra 540s, 1/4 scale Cap 232 and they are planning on buying a UCD3D. It lands slow, but will still do a lot of 3D manouvers. He has a .91 OS 4s and still trying to get the engine broke in. He didn't have any parts missing or damaged.

If you want to learn 3D, from what the guys are saying, you can't go wrong with with the UCD3d.

Soj

GoldenEagle

My Feedback: (1)

Ok, got four flights on the UCD3D Sat. Great airplane! Fly it like a pattern ship, a big ol' trainer, or sub-stall speed (I won't call what I'm doing 3D yet- that's what I bought a "3D trainer" for). With a little altitude but still in close, recovery from some of the weirdest flip-flops out of attempted hovers and elevators was almost instantaneous. You could snap out of a hover and pull back vertical in what appeared to be about 10 feet.

Landings were so slow and floaty that I had to readjust my style. Once across the threshold, close the throttle completely, and let it settle in with little or no flair. Every time I tried to flair just before touch-down it ballooned back up 3 - 4 feet. A real low idle speed helps too. The Saito .91 has plenty of thrust for this plane. There's not much difference in airspeed between 1/2 and full throttle and it only needed about 1/4 throttle to harrier it around the field.

I took two airplanes to the field Sat. and I never even unloaded the other one. The last flight I was having so much fun that I ran it dry - it landed dead-stick easier than with power!

Get one!

godwin85

Well, I finnally got the thing all together, and took it for a flight. I got one flight in at low rates and it was wounderful. The OS 91 FX mad this plane pull off the ground at half throttle in about 10' It landed beautifully on the first attempt.

However!!!!, the second flight didn't go so well. Trying to take off it would never pull off the ground. It pulled up to five feet at the last second after I had chopped the throttle. I rode it into some tall weeds and saved the plane with the exception of a pamaged front cowling. After inspecting the plane I found one of the control arms for the left elevator had popped off at the control horn. Thus only having one elevator, it never had enough to get it off the ground. My suggestion to all is to either find some way to secure the clevises better or upgrade. I plan to go out again on Tues. and see if everything still holds together.

Thanks everyone for your comments and help

Jason Godwin

blueangel

I have flown this plane once. It is a very nice plane. It is stable and comes out of anything you put in it faster then my trainer! It can do any aerobatic maneover. Everyone who flew it, including me, loves it.

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

If you arn't using a piece of fuel line to hold the clevis closed, you should be. You might think about upgrading
to a Hays clevis. later daveo

Joe Hunt

My Feedback: (4)

Quote
<hr>Originally posted by: godwin85
I know this is the new question out but does anyone have any prewarnings on this plane. <hr>

WARNING!!! If you buy one you may sell all your 40% planes and just fly the UCD!! It's the best of the little funflys that I have flown. Really, rreeaallyy, stable. Try one with 9411 servos... truly awesome. If anyone has a UCD NIB they want to sell... I'll take it!

parkavenue

My Feedback: (262)

I enjoyed all of the above comments regarding the UCD. I just received mine in the mail and this is my first venture into 3D. I will power with Saito 91. My question - which JR servos are recommended for ailerons? Elevator? Rudder? Thanks in advance for comments. Richard

famousdave

My Feedback: (61)

I just set up my UCD3D as follows with outstanding results...

I am using JR equipment, obviously sub your brand: If you don't have a computer radio you are missing out! Get one!!! I am using a basic JR XF651 6 channel. I am not an imaa competitor so I really didn't need a $500 radio..... I paid $190 on the web and have been more than pleased!!!

Engine - the awesome OS 91 FX 4-stroke with a15x5 prop.. no more pitch than 6!!! They are not kidding - the plane will tear itself apart if it overspeeds and that big OS will swing a huge prop!!

Throttle: 1 Std 537 Servo (40+oz) in throttle pos in rx
Ailerons: 2 Std 537 Servo (40+oz) 1 in ail position, 1 in aux / flap pos in rx (channel 5)
Elevator 2 Std 537 Servo (40+oz) 1 in elevator position using extension and reverser harness
Rudder: 1 ultra tork tower hobbies servo (80+ oz) (if you are really serious about 3d, consider a digital rudder servo and bigger elevator servos. I couldn't justify $125 per servo vs. $35)

Hobbico JR HD servo extensions
EXP servo reversing harness for JR

** Very important ** - throw away the crappy clevises that came with the kit. Use Goldberg / DuBro ball clevis / horns OR better yet - use carbon fiber rods / ends between Rudder and both Aileron servos with STEEL clevises. The stock pushrods are OK for the elevators and throttle. I already noticed someone had a failure of the cheap stuff. I always use steel even on my cheapo trainer. I just don't trust that plastic crap on anything but a park flyer.....

Also - don't forget more servos = more battery. Use a 1100mah + LiIon or NmH for best results or you will get 2 flights max.

Other necessities that I could not do without - Voltwatch battery monitor (very cool!)
Great Planes fueler valve - a must have for cowled engines
Needle valve extension
In- Cowl glow plug setup - (i.e. head lock remote) another must have...
Battery recharge receptacle (so you dont have to open the radio compartment every time you need to recharge the rx battery.....

Finally - if you set up 100% per the manual, get the CG and throws right on, you will be amazed!!! I made my first flight with only a rudder trim adjustment. Also -if you use flaperons, when deploying the flaps be ready on the throttle!! They really slow the plane down - if you cut the throttle and hit the flaps, the plane will nearly come to a stop!! Of course hitting the 91 fixes that in a hurry!

Flaps make a huge difference (at least to me) in the low speed landing. I don't deploy on take offs, the plane takes off in 10 feet with or without flaps! On landing, with flaps, this plane is easier to land than my trainer!

Best plane I have even flown! No wonder they are out of stock everywhere I was looking!




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godwin85

A new problem has came up. The cowling mount blocks, due to vibration and having to take the cowling on and off several times the wood blocks have stripped out. However I have removed the blocks and installed a piece of plywood with small blind nuts with a piece of triangle stock for support. this seems to secure it better and comes off easier without tripping out the threads

Snowmass

My Feedback: (12)

My UCD3D is without question one of my favorite planes over the last 15 years of flying RC. With a YS 91AC it hovers at half throttle. Point it into a little wind, cut the throttle, and it just STAYS there. It is really incredibly fun to fly. When you look at the quality of the workmanship here, the amount of construction done for you (pre-joined wings, pre-drilled wing bolts, etc. and the amount of airplane here, the price is amazing. I've already bought a second one because I plan to fly the heck out of this.

I didn't use any of the supplied hardware though, except for the gas tank. And I would have replaced that if I had a better one that fit. I agree with Daveo that Hayes clevises are best, and I used Hayes control horns too. And with coreless servos, I also used beefier pushrods.

I originally worried that the tail didn't look strong enough for the loads it will get. Has anyone had tail problems, or used wire tail braces?

Finally, my only real beef with this plane is the dumb name. I've already written to GP and told them I refused to put those name stickers on the side.

Joe Hunt

My Feedback: (4)

Check out my new UCD video on my opening page:

http://www.downonthedeck.com/

cubflipper02

Guys,also give the seagull razzle some serious consideration.After beating my ucando into the ground after many great flights,I decided to try the razzle offered by horizon hobbies.I've got to say,this flies as good if not better then the ucando.Pretty much hands off hovering,extremely slow and stable,no tendency at all to rock the wings in harriers or elevators.Check it out.For 150 bucks it cant be beat.

godwin85

Well, here's the latest update. I have had an awsome time with this plane except for the engine. I am sending the OS 91FX back to get looked at. the needle valve is super sensitive and Hobby Services asked for me to send it in.

About the plane. I put a sulivan tail wheel on the back because the original one had some play and was tearing up the rudder. The sulivan is spring loaded to help soften up the force to the rudder on landings and also it put less stress on the rudder servo because it doesn't take as much force to turn the sulivan.

I moved the CG back to 6" by cutting an access panel about an inch forward of the tail mounted servos and putting the battery pack inside. The palne flys even better than before. It hovers with less power and doesn't have as much of a tendancy to fall out as easy.

I also upgraded all controls to 4-40 rods with dubro metal clevises.

I would strongly suggest to anyone to beef up the landing gear bay. I ripped out the mounting block 3 times and I am still trying to find a way to get it to stop.

next prodject is to mount the rudder servo on the bottom of the fuse and install a pull-pull sys for the rudder.

Fito

Hi I've just found this forum, and I think is great, I own a u-can-do and these is what i have on it,
O.S. max 0.91 fx
15 x 4 apc prop
3004 BB. futaba servos
2000 mamps 5 cell batery
4-40 rods all surface controls
dubro giant arms for futaba
G.P. filler valve
stock spinner.

What can i say, this plane had rock the field , is my first 3d and the first in the club that had performed 3d like manouvers, well i'm still practicing, and I hope some day i can reach the 3d level experties i desired.
With the 91 fx i've got plenty power to do averithing i want, we are at 1140 mm over sea level (3740 ft over sea level) and the engine works fine. The 3004 servos with a 5 cel bat. are suficient to handle the required torque specs and velocity, this way you avoid the expensive hi torque, digital, coreless, etc. servos. Computer radio is a must, you will need independent surface control for this plane, this will give you flexibility and a bunch of new manouvers.
I have just a couple of complains about this arf, the suplied spinner is not very good, and i had to trim a litle bit of plastic from back plate on the engine side, (just enoght to have the back plate in all the way against the engine plate). Also the tail l.g. pop out it's place on a landing, I'm giong to replace it for a sullivan too.

Ive got 8 sorties with the aircraft and I agree , is one of the best machines I have owned.

Un saludo desde México.

To the web page administrators, you do not have all the countries to sellect from when you are regestering, I had to use " New Mexico".

R/C Darryl

I've been flying my u can do 3d since march with only minor problems mainly screws vibrating loose. The stock spinner broke and I replaced it with a greatplanes 2 1/4 alunimum spinner. I had to make the canopy removable to get it in the truck and i'm having problems with the screws vibrating out during flight any suggestions? it flies great i love it.

OS 91S four Stroke with 14X6 Prop, I get close to 30 minutes flying time
4-40 rods all surface controls
dubro giant arms
G.P. filler valve
Voltwatch battery monitor
In- Cowl glow plug setup remote in fusalage
MPI Switch/ recharge combo
JR XP662

AcroJo

My Feedback: (1)

Daryll, As far as the screws coming out, get rid of the truck and keep the UCD! You need to put a drop of thin CA in each hole and it will harden on the threaded area in the balsa. Like the threads inside a nut. Unfortunatly this is only good for a certian amount of time. Those screws will only go in and out so many times. You need canopy cement and make it permanent. Canopies and cowls are on eternal backorder! As far as those other guys on this thread, you can knock the wheels of any plane! Although the tail wheel is a new one on me. Good luck

Rumple

About canopy screws vibrating out - if you've only screwed into the balsa sheeting, this is likely to be a problem. I CA'ed some small squares of light ply to the sheeting where the canopy screws go in - and drilled holes that I hardened with CA. Then the holes are tight and deep (my fav kind!). You shouldn't have a problem again. But man its tough getting your hands inside the narrow fuse!

I can't believe some of you are getting away with std servos on the big UCD, even at 6V. I am using Hitec 605s on everything except my pull-pull rudder (645MG) and throttle (Futaba 3003). AND I'm using a 6V/1100 mAh battery. Your battery life should be fine with this setup, provided you've done things right. By this I mean there should be no buzzing in your servos when you move your control surfaces. This is a sign that they are working too hard. I can't believe how many planes at my field have buzzing servos. The control surfaces should move very easily.

K

R/C Darryl

I've used medium strength thread locker with flat washers with some success on the canopy that has cracked, but I think I will try putting the small blasa squares and see what happens or make it permanent and figure out how to get it in the truck. I've use flat washer, lock washers, and thread locker on the cowl and that has worked great for that. One wheel pant keeps vibrating loose. Got to keep the truck its payed for and use the money on a new plane its cheaper.

Rotcivv17

I wouldn't really worry about the battery. I fly my GP Stuka with 7 servos on a 600 mah battery pack for about 4 or 5 flights.