Building the Seduction Freestyle - more tips added.
03-16-2002, 05:05 PM
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Building the Seduction Freestyle - more tips added.
I built this kit last fall. I sold it ready to cover to someone else. I don't know if he has finished or flown it yet. Here are some tips for you guys planning to build one:
Definitely order the kit specified 220 cc tank from OK models. It is an obround shape and none of the tanks available from US manufacturers will fit in the plane without a lot of modification. The kit has plywood formers with precut openings for this special tank.
The built up tapered stab is a major chore. The kit also comes with a flat stab option that would be much, much easier to build. I don't know if the built up tapered stab is worth all the extra work. Also be sure to install the elevator joiner wire before you glue in the tapered stab. It can't be added after the stab is installed.
The landing gear looks weak. I would replace it with something stronger while building the kit. This would be easier than retrofitting later. TNT could probably supply the same shaped gear made from thicker aluminum.
The filler blocks that go on top of the stab along side the fin are a major pain to shape. The blocks are made up of glued together plates. The glue joints show up when shaping. Replace this wood with solid soft balsa, glue the blocks together with an easy to sand glue like SIG sigment, or redesign this area some how. There is a very small fin that sticks above the turtle deck only about 2 inches. I noticed on the Wildstyle that they just added this area to the rudder and eliminated this little fin. You could then extend the sheeted turtle deck all the way to the rear of the plane and eliminate the filler blocks. This would also save some weight.
The dehedral instructions are very confusing. Another guy contacted OK Models for an interpretation. The correct total dehedral is 1.215 inches measured at the tip rib. With one wing flat on the building board, the other wing tip should be 1.215 inches above the building board.
The kit comes with a little piece of clear vacuum formed plastic. The instructions don't explain what it is for. It is supposed to be glued into the rear of the landing gear cavity at an angle to streamline this area. I threw mine away and used a piece of thin balsa instead.
Definitely do not try to tint the cowl or canopy in hot water. The heat destroys them and the replacements from Japan are very expensive. Don't ask how I know.
When assembling the fuselage sides, you are supposed to leave a 1/16 inch offset of the layers along the top edge. This then creates a shouldered area for the turtle deck and front deck sheeting to glue into. The instructions aren't to clear on this detail. The fuselage sides have several seams. If you use CA glue and it runs through the seams to the outside of the fuse, the glue is very hard to sand off later. I would use an easy to sand type of glue in this area.
The turtle deck formers are too far apart and the stringers are very weak. Put a lot of reinforcing cross braces between the turtle deck stringers before sheeting this area. Or better yet, add two additional turtle deck formers. Otherwise the first side of the turtle deck sheeting will warp the stringers. When you put on the other side, it follows the warp and then the whole turltle deck has a warp or warps in it.
The kit comes with a clear plastic cowl. The plastic is tougher than the white ABS cowls, but I would still be worried that it may develop cracks. Reinforce the mounting holes with a layer of plastic from trimming the canopy, thin ply, fiberglass or something.
I did not use the plastic wing tips and extra balsa wing tip plates. I added a layer of 1/32 inch plywood to the tip rib. This saved about an ounce of weight. I also taper the outer 6 inches of the ailerons by about 1/2 inch to reduce flutter.
I did not use most of the metric kit hardware, especially the threaded wheel axles. The kit uses threaded screws for control horns on the ailerons, elevator and rudder. These are shown just screwed through the soft balsa control surfaces. This seems like a weak design. I recommend adding a 3/8 inch dowel hard point in these locations or using a different type of control horn.
The wing goes together beautifully. The kit has excellent light wood and ply. I thought the wood in the tail, especially the rudder, was actually a little too light. I estimate the plane would have come out at about 4 pounds 6 ounces with the YS 63. The kit comes with a very heavy plastic mount for the YS 63. I cut the excess beam length off this mount and drilled lightening holes in it. I would consider replacing it with something lighter.
The kit has built in right thrust. Pay close attention to left and right fuse parts to get this right. When adding parts U-2, X-3 and W-3 to the bottom front of the fuse, the parts on the right side of the fuse have to be shortened because of the right thrust angle of the firewall. Be sure to remove material from the front, not the rear, of these parts. Otherwise the landing gear notches end up in the wrong place.
The rudder pushrod is long and unsupported. I recommend a small diameter carbon figber rod with threaded fittings on the end. I think a piece of 2-56 sized wire might vibrate a lot and/or bend. A 4-40 rod seems like it would be too heavy. The pushrod location seems kind of weird, but I couldn't find a better way to position it. Maybe someone else has a better idea for this problem.
The instructions and assembly pictures are printed on a piece of paper the same size as the plans. I cut the sheet into separate pieces for each section of the plans: tail, wing, fuse, etc. The instructions are somewhat brief and omit a lot of steps. This kit is not for an inexperienced builder.
If you have any questions while building the kit, just ask and I may have the answer. I am looking forward to more flight reports on this plane.
Definitely order the kit specified 220 cc tank from OK models. It is an obround shape and none of the tanks available from US manufacturers will fit in the plane without a lot of modification. The kit has plywood formers with precut openings for this special tank.
The built up tapered stab is a major chore. The kit also comes with a flat stab option that would be much, much easier to build. I don't know if the built up tapered stab is worth all the extra work. Also be sure to install the elevator joiner wire before you glue in the tapered stab. It can't be added after the stab is installed.
The landing gear looks weak. I would replace it with something stronger while building the kit. This would be easier than retrofitting later. TNT could probably supply the same shaped gear made from thicker aluminum.
The filler blocks that go on top of the stab along side the fin are a major pain to shape. The blocks are made up of glued together plates. The glue joints show up when shaping. Replace this wood with solid soft balsa, glue the blocks together with an easy to sand glue like SIG sigment, or redesign this area some how. There is a very small fin that sticks above the turtle deck only about 2 inches. I noticed on the Wildstyle that they just added this area to the rudder and eliminated this little fin. You could then extend the sheeted turtle deck all the way to the rear of the plane and eliminate the filler blocks. This would also save some weight.
The dehedral instructions are very confusing. Another guy contacted OK Models for an interpretation. The correct total dehedral is 1.215 inches measured at the tip rib. With one wing flat on the building board, the other wing tip should be 1.215 inches above the building board.
The kit comes with a little piece of clear vacuum formed plastic. The instructions don't explain what it is for. It is supposed to be glued into the rear of the landing gear cavity at an angle to streamline this area. I threw mine away and used a piece of thin balsa instead.
Definitely do not try to tint the cowl or canopy in hot water. The heat destroys them and the replacements from Japan are very expensive. Don't ask how I know.
When assembling the fuselage sides, you are supposed to leave a 1/16 inch offset of the layers along the top edge. This then creates a shouldered area for the turtle deck and front deck sheeting to glue into. The instructions aren't to clear on this detail. The fuselage sides have several seams. If you use CA glue and it runs through the seams to the outside of the fuse, the glue is very hard to sand off later. I would use an easy to sand type of glue in this area.
The turtle deck formers are too far apart and the stringers are very weak. Put a lot of reinforcing cross braces between the turtle deck stringers before sheeting this area. Or better yet, add two additional turtle deck formers. Otherwise the first side of the turtle deck sheeting will warp the stringers. When you put on the other side, it follows the warp and then the whole turltle deck has a warp or warps in it.
The kit comes with a clear plastic cowl. The plastic is tougher than the white ABS cowls, but I would still be worried that it may develop cracks. Reinforce the mounting holes with a layer of plastic from trimming the canopy, thin ply, fiberglass or something.
I did not use the plastic wing tips and extra balsa wing tip plates. I added a layer of 1/32 inch plywood to the tip rib. This saved about an ounce of weight. I also taper the outer 6 inches of the ailerons by about 1/2 inch to reduce flutter.
I did not use most of the metric kit hardware, especially the threaded wheel axles. The kit uses threaded screws for control horns on the ailerons, elevator and rudder. These are shown just screwed through the soft balsa control surfaces. This seems like a weak design. I recommend adding a 3/8 inch dowel hard point in these locations or using a different type of control horn.
The wing goes together beautifully. The kit has excellent light wood and ply. I thought the wood in the tail, especially the rudder, was actually a little too light. I estimate the plane would have come out at about 4 pounds 6 ounces with the YS 63. The kit comes with a very heavy plastic mount for the YS 63. I cut the excess beam length off this mount and drilled lightening holes in it. I would consider replacing it with something lighter.
The kit has built in right thrust. Pay close attention to left and right fuse parts to get this right. When adding parts U-2, X-3 and W-3 to the bottom front of the fuse, the parts on the right side of the fuse have to be shortened because of the right thrust angle of the firewall. Be sure to remove material from the front, not the rear, of these parts. Otherwise the landing gear notches end up in the wrong place.
The rudder pushrod is long and unsupported. I recommend a small diameter carbon figber rod with threaded fittings on the end. I think a piece of 2-56 sized wire might vibrate a lot and/or bend. A 4-40 rod seems like it would be too heavy. The pushrod location seems kind of weird, but I couldn't find a better way to position it. Maybe someone else has a better idea for this problem.
The instructions and assembly pictures are printed on a piece of paper the same size as the plans. I cut the sheet into separate pieces for each section of the plans: tail, wing, fuse, etc. The instructions are somewhat brief and omit a lot of steps. This kit is not for an inexperienced builder.
If you have any questions while building the kit, just ask and I may have the answer. I am looking forward to more flight reports on this plane.
03-16-2002, 07:09 PM
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Building the Seduction Freestyle - more tips added.
Wow....this should help me out!!
Thanks for taking the time to write all this down!!
I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions...
How is the manual? Other than the few confusing parts.
Thanks for taking the time to write all this down!!
I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions...
How is the manual? Other than the few confusing parts.
04-02-2002, 01:09 AM
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Building the Seduction Freestyle - more tips added.
I'll bump this up as it may help quite a few people out...
I'm almost done mine and I agree with all of this...
chris
I'm almost done mine and I agree with all of this...
chris
04-02-2002, 04:11 AM
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Seduction tip
Here's another one:
If you go with the built up stab, the ends of the stab and inside corners of the elevators are single thickness ribs. The tension of the coverig material tends to bend these ribs in. Just add a balsa reinforcing strip on each rib, as shown in the attached picture.
If you go with the built up stab, the ends of the stab and inside corners of the elevators are single thickness ribs. The tension of the coverig material tends to bend these ribs in. Just add a balsa reinforcing strip on each rib, as shown in the attached picture.
04-02-2002, 11:13 AM
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I bought that plane!
Hey Jerry I'll have the plane flying in about a week. You really are a outstanding builder. When you bought this plane last year I'd have to guess that you had no idea how popular it would have become. I'm sure glad I got the plane from you when I did. I'll send you a picture of your creation soon. Thanks Mike
04-05-2002, 08:04 PM
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How much to ship this kit to the U.S?
h82crash,
I reported in the bigger thread about this plane that I got mine in
12 days for a US price of $135 delivered.
That is a great deal. If you decide to get one be sure to order the fuel tank. It is a perfect fit.
I reported in the bigger thread about this plane that I got mine in
12 days for a US price of $135 delivered.
That is a great deal. If you decide to get one be sure to order the fuel tank. It is a perfect fit.
04-06-2002, 04:33 AM
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Saito 91 too much?
A Saito 91 weighs about an oz more than the YS 63. Will it fit? I'm not trying to compare Saito to YS, just have the Saito looking for a plane.
04-06-2002, 04:37 AM
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Building the Seduction Freestyle - more tips added.
Hey...I got a tip for you guys!! DON'T JOIN THE ELEVATORS BEFORE HINGING THEm TO THE STAB ON THE PLANE! 
04-06-2002, 04:51 AM
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Elevators
Chris, they left that part out of the instructions. I knew it would be a little tricky to get that part of the plane together. Let us know how you fix the problem. You could always just build a new set of elevators. That would only take a couple of days.
04-24-2002, 06:06 PM
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Building the Seduction Freestyle - more tips added.
You can also use the "Ming Yang" 220cl fuel tank, it fits perfectly. Great quality and no dodgy copper piping! The also have some lightweight foam wheels that are perfect. By the way you can get Seductions, in all the flavours from Slough Radio Control Models here in the UK. Great service and prompt delivery.
04-24-2002, 08:35 PM
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Building the Seduction Freestyle - more tips added.
Well guys I am ahead of you coz I have built and flown mine. Some of my observations are.
1. The built up tail is essental if you want to do 3d ( this is what the aircraft is designed for ) The location of tail is diffrent for both tails. The sheeted one looks more like a sensation type tail with very little percentage of elevator. The location of the built up one will give a much tighter turning moment, and it alot lower on the fuz enhancing knife edge
2. The tail when it came off the building board felt quite flexy, so I cross braced it across all the rib sections, now very strong.
3. The wing diheadreal is set at 32mm at the end rib if the other wing is set flat on the building board. I can confirm that the knife edge is very good with very little Aileron correction.
4. The undercart is crap... Do your self a favour and put a carbon one on. A small note is that most retro carbon gear is designed to fit on the bottom of the fuz. remember that the gear is set an inch from the bottom of the fuz, if you screw that then you will lose the prop clearance.
5. Make sure you have some powerfull servos on the rudder and elevator, I am running Hitec 605mg's, and I am using HS525mg's for Ailerons, an HS 81mg for thottle, all on 6V.
6. Motor selection, put the YS63 in it. Its pumped, loads of power, torque, which is what you need on an aircraft like this. prop selection is 13 x 6 to 13 x 4. The lower pitch makes prop hanging touque rolling easier. I can knife edge loop mine on 1/2 power. i am sure that an OS 46fx and alike will work well but it will distroy the flying qualities/Subtleties. Also you will get a C of G shift as the fuel burns off.
7. The elevator servo is in the wrong location. It has been moved to accomodate the rudder servo on the other side. I have build mine as the kit and I have found the geometry to be slightly out, give not exactly the same amount of though up and down on full deflection. The answer is to move the rudder servo to the cockpit and use a closed loop and move the elevator servo. All the linkages are 3mm rod.
8. I have made now real changes to the kit other than this and the aircraft ready to fly came out at 4.5lbs.
9. Flying, still playing with the setup but this was my impressions after the first day of flying
Seduction FS first flights,
What can I say but WOW…. . Covering is in Profilm white and chrome red. The all up dry weight is 4.5lbs; this was without any special weight saving going on. The YS has been nicely run in on the Kyosho Majestic.
The weather was cold about 3 degrees C, 2 - 5mph wind. So range check etc. all ok, set low rates and off. The plane needed three clicks of right aileron and it tracked spot on hands off. I had set the c of g at the revised position, if you have the kit you will see an amendment sheet. A few circuits and check out the roll, very axial, the loop tracked dead straight. The vertical required a little rudder correction. So with the rates off, the rudder is mighty powerful. A stall turn was tried and the aircraft all but stops on the power of the rudder and turns on its axis with no coupling. Then some knife-edge, There was some pitching toward the canopy, this will be easily corrected though so some mixing on the trani or some playing of the c of g required. Then a knife-edge loop, no problems just hold it on the elevator and ailerons so as to force it round. All very easy and on ½ power. Then for some spins, flat, inverted with very little lose of height. The some snaps all easy and controllable. Then I thought I should test the slow speed handling. I had it hovering in a 5 mph breeze, when I lifted the nose the wing tips started to wag in true 3d style. Then for a prop hang, all no trouble, just hold the nose up with the rudder.
Landing was dead easy just line it up power back, with the 13 X 6 prop the braking effect is tremendous, pull the nose up and perfect 3 pointer at walking pace. Later flight I discovered that I could flat spin and flick to inverted then back agian on just the rudder, no input from other controls and all at a little over idle. If you up the power the spin is just faster and you start to assend, the knife edge spin was tried, with similar effects, the lost of height was very low. I then tried a stall turn around the 270 degrees and off on the knife edge. Then for some knife edge figure eights, like cubans but without the roll, all on half power and easy, realy looks good.
Conclusion is that I will get another kit if this one dies (dam right). I would highly recommend it to any one after a 40 size free style aeroplane. it is not a fast flying aircraft, if you want one of these then get a patern ship. No this is all about power weight ratio, thrust and acceleration, this why the YS 63 is great for the job, generating it power at 11500 rpm , you fly right on the power band. The c of g could still go further back even from the revised position
Kris
1. The built up tail is essental if you want to do 3d ( this is what the aircraft is designed for ) The location of tail is diffrent for both tails. The sheeted one looks more like a sensation type tail with very little percentage of elevator. The location of the built up one will give a much tighter turning moment, and it alot lower on the fuz enhancing knife edge
2. The tail when it came off the building board felt quite flexy, so I cross braced it across all the rib sections, now very strong.
3. The wing diheadreal is set at 32mm at the end rib if the other wing is set flat on the building board. I can confirm that the knife edge is very good with very little Aileron correction.
4. The undercart is crap... Do your self a favour and put a carbon one on. A small note is that most retro carbon gear is designed to fit on the bottom of the fuz. remember that the gear is set an inch from the bottom of the fuz, if you screw that then you will lose the prop clearance.
5. Make sure you have some powerfull servos on the rudder and elevator, I am running Hitec 605mg's, and I am using HS525mg's for Ailerons, an HS 81mg for thottle, all on 6V.
6. Motor selection, put the YS63 in it. Its pumped, loads of power, torque, which is what you need on an aircraft like this. prop selection is 13 x 6 to 13 x 4. The lower pitch makes prop hanging touque rolling easier. I can knife edge loop mine on 1/2 power. i am sure that an OS 46fx and alike will work well but it will distroy the flying qualities/Subtleties. Also you will get a C of G shift as the fuel burns off.
7. The elevator servo is in the wrong location. It has been moved to accomodate the rudder servo on the other side. I have build mine as the kit and I have found the geometry to be slightly out, give not exactly the same amount of though up and down on full deflection. The answer is to move the rudder servo to the cockpit and use a closed loop and move the elevator servo. All the linkages are 3mm rod.
8. I have made now real changes to the kit other than this and the aircraft ready to fly came out at 4.5lbs.
9. Flying, still playing with the setup but this was my impressions after the first day of flying
Seduction FS first flights,
What can I say but WOW…. . Covering is in Profilm white and chrome red. The all up dry weight is 4.5lbs; this was without any special weight saving going on. The YS has been nicely run in on the Kyosho Majestic.
The weather was cold about 3 degrees C, 2 - 5mph wind. So range check etc. all ok, set low rates and off. The plane needed three clicks of right aileron and it tracked spot on hands off. I had set the c of g at the revised position, if you have the kit you will see an amendment sheet. A few circuits and check out the roll, very axial, the loop tracked dead straight. The vertical required a little rudder correction. So with the rates off, the rudder is mighty powerful. A stall turn was tried and the aircraft all but stops on the power of the rudder and turns on its axis with no coupling. Then some knife-edge, There was some pitching toward the canopy, this will be easily corrected though so some mixing on the trani or some playing of the c of g required. Then a knife-edge loop, no problems just hold it on the elevator and ailerons so as to force it round. All very easy and on ½ power. Then for some spins, flat, inverted with very little lose of height. The some snaps all easy and controllable. Then I thought I should test the slow speed handling. I had it hovering in a 5 mph breeze, when I lifted the nose the wing tips started to wag in true 3d style. Then for a prop hang, all no trouble, just hold the nose up with the rudder.
Landing was dead easy just line it up power back, with the 13 X 6 prop the braking effect is tremendous, pull the nose up and perfect 3 pointer at walking pace. Later flight I discovered that I could flat spin and flick to inverted then back agian on just the rudder, no input from other controls and all at a little over idle. If you up the power the spin is just faster and you start to assend, the knife edge spin was tried, with similar effects, the lost of height was very low. I then tried a stall turn around the 270 degrees and off on the knife edge. Then for some knife edge figure eights, like cubans but without the roll, all on half power and easy, realy looks good.
Conclusion is that I will get another kit if this one dies (dam right). I would highly recommend it to any one after a 40 size free style aeroplane. it is not a fast flying aircraft, if you want one of these then get a patern ship. No this is all about power weight ratio, thrust and acceleration, this why the YS 63 is great for the job, generating it power at 11500 rpm , you fly right on the power band. The c of g could still go further back even from the revised position
Kris
04-25-2002, 12:42 PM
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Vs...??
Kris you said that you broke in the motor on a Majestic. I take that it was the Kyosho Majestic. If so how would you compare these plane's flight characteristics, build, etc. I'm flying a pattern type plane and the mix of pattern and 3d seem like my next step.
04-25-2002, 06:36 PM
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Building the Seduction Freestyle - more tips added.
I killed my Kyosho majestic and now replaced it for a tai ji 40s. I found that the ys63 to be the ideal motor for the majestic. In light winds I used the 13 X 6 apc and in stronger gusty conditions I used a 12 x 7 or 11 x 7 apc.
As far as the flight characteristics are concerned The kyosho Majestic is firstly a pattern ship that you can do more with. It will do the full F3A book with no trouble. As far as the 3d performance is concerned, I had trouble doing more that knife edge ( which has to be said is brilliant, no coupling what so ever ) and flat spins etc. When slowed up it became very unstable and tip stally. Mine came out at 5 ¾ lbs, which is in my opinion, is about 1 1/4 lbs too heavy. The design I believe is compromised from the full size majestic, the ailerons are too small as is the elevator and tail plane location. I think that Kyosho have tamed the beast to make a very good sport pattern ship that will do more that just F3A. I would guess that the majority of aircraft sold will have standard servos in, and a cooking 40 or 46 two stroke. Not that there is anything wrong with that. I would have got another majestic to replace the old one if they were available in the UK. RC aerosport have a very good report on one. http://www.rcaerosport.com/
As far as comparing the majestic to the Seduction, if its 3d/freestyle you want then get the Seduction. If you don’t want to build get the majestic, ARTF, or get the Stream 50 FS, which I believe will come out at the 4 ½ lbs mark and is ARTF. The Seduction is not difficult to build but you must keep you thinking cap on to put it together. Mine took the best part of 9 weeks to put together and cover. That was working 4 night per week and weekends. I did not replace the Majestic with the Seduction I complimented it….
I now have 3 aircraft powered by the YS 63, Znline Madness, Seduction and the Tai Ji 40. All have very different flight characteristics and do their jobs well, but I wouldn’t expect the madness to fly like the Tai Ji......
Cheers
Kris
As far as the flight characteristics are concerned The kyosho Majestic is firstly a pattern ship that you can do more with. It will do the full F3A book with no trouble. As far as the 3d performance is concerned, I had trouble doing more that knife edge ( which has to be said is brilliant, no coupling what so ever ) and flat spins etc. When slowed up it became very unstable and tip stally. Mine came out at 5 ¾ lbs, which is in my opinion, is about 1 1/4 lbs too heavy. The design I believe is compromised from the full size majestic, the ailerons are too small as is the elevator and tail plane location. I think that Kyosho have tamed the beast to make a very good sport pattern ship that will do more that just F3A. I would guess that the majority of aircraft sold will have standard servos in, and a cooking 40 or 46 two stroke. Not that there is anything wrong with that. I would have got another majestic to replace the old one if they were available in the UK. RC aerosport have a very good report on one. http://www.rcaerosport.com/
As far as comparing the majestic to the Seduction, if its 3d/freestyle you want then get the Seduction. If you don’t want to build get the majestic, ARTF, or get the Stream 50 FS, which I believe will come out at the 4 ½ lbs mark and is ARTF. The Seduction is not difficult to build but you must keep you thinking cap on to put it together. Mine took the best part of 9 weeks to put together and cover. That was working 4 night per week and weekends. I did not replace the Majestic with the Seduction I complimented it….
I now have 3 aircraft powered by the YS 63, Znline Madness, Seduction and the Tai Ji 40. All have very different flight characteristics and do their jobs well, but I wouldn’t expect the madness to fly like the Tai Ji......
Cheers
Kris
04-26-2002, 02:07 AM
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Building the Seduction Freestyle - more tips added.
hehe chris! I want to get this plane badly! anyone no where i can get some actual info on the plane? i know of singapore but they have no actual info on the plane
04-26-2002, 07:12 AM
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Building the Seduction Freestyle - more tips added.
I got mine from Derek Chan at RCaerosport. http://www.rcaerosport.com/
He was very good and I got the kit though to the UK, 5 days after the order. There is very little in english about the kit in the webb, but if you follow some of the links that are on this forum you will find all the info you need. I now it is a risk and you don't really know what you are getting and all that, but you will not be disapointed. again if you follow the threads and take time to read them all the info is there.
Cheers
kris
He was very good and I got the kit though to the UK, 5 days after the order. There is very little in english about the kit in the webb, but if you follow some of the links that are on this forum you will find all the info you need. I now it is a risk and you don't really know what you are getting and all that, but you will not be disapointed. again if you follow the threads and take time to read them all the info is there.
Cheers
kris
04-28-2002, 01:56 PM
#17
My Feedback: (41)
Plane pics
I finished the plane that I bought from Rcman,Jerry. He was kind enough to downsize the pics and now you can see the plane. I just got it off the scale and wow it only weighs 4 lbs 3 oz. My CG is to far aft and I'll need to reposition the battery pack. Thanks Kris for turning me on to this plane back in Dec. on Rconline. I'm just waiting for better weather and I'll let you know how she flys.Also you can see the nice vinyl graphics that Randy cut for the plane. The canopy was sprayed in a really neat looking translucent pearlcoat and turns prismatic in the sunlight.
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~jlbern/seductn1.jpg
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~jlbern/seductn2.jpg
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~jlbern/seductn3.jpg
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~jlbern/seductn4.jpg
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~jlbern/seductn1.jpg
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~jlbern/seductn2.jpg
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~jlbern/seductn3.jpg
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~jlbern/seductn4.jpg
04-28-2002, 03:16 PM
#18
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Hertfordshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 266
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Building the Seduction Freestyle - more tips added.
Great solution to the cowl problem! Its a real pain to paint. Mine is near flying state, the scheme is the same but in the Profilm Trans Purple. I have a carbon u/c set that was custom made. YS 63 with an O.S flexi-header to a small heli exhaust drum mounted in the u/c well. Looks really tidy, wasn't so keen on that little muffler that came with the YS... all sticking out and ugly! Used a Ming Yang 220cl tank which was a perfect fit. Counting the days till it flys!
04-28-2002, 06:12 PM
#20
My Feedback: (41)
What I used
Thanks Chuck. I used JR Digital DS-8231 servos on the elev and rudder and I have Hitech 225bb"s on ailerons and throttle. The plane is all ultracote including all the trim. We painted the cowl in PPG automotive. The planes weighs 4lbs 3oz so it should rock!!