Old 03-14-2006, 07:57 AM
  #11  
da Rock
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Default RE: Hinging gluing tips: How you do yours on Dubro hinge.

I managed to get the Hinge glue from Pacer. Since its water based can I take it that its less messy or easier to deal compare to epoxy. Is this correct assumptions?
It is A LOT EASIER to deal with compared to epoxy. You're absolutely correct.
I've done a couple of test installations using it and Dubro hinges. I didn't believe that it would be as strong as epoxy. It is absolutely strong enough. I tested to destruction. The wood was destroyed. The glue held the hinge flats in the holes. I wound up with hinges that had destroyed balsa glued to them.

For the hinge glue, do I need to roughen up the hinge surface? Given that the slot need to be snug, the glue may have difficulty to get in so I will use a blade to slot the glue in first.
You can roughen, but I don't bother anymore. I run a bead of glue along the slot and then use the side of a straight pin to press that glue into the slot. I then smear a thin coating of glue on the hinge flat that's going into the slot. I THINK THE IMPORTANT DETAIL is to make sure the holes in the hinge flat have glue in them. That insures that when the flat is in the slot, the glue will seal from one side of the balsa to the other side. We had to do that with epoxy, because the nylon hinge material can eventually separate from epoxy due to the properties of nylon. Those holes are what makes the hinges bulletproof. Those holes through the flats provide whatever glue you're using to created a "pin" bonding the balsa on one side of the flat to the balsa on the other side of the flat. The glue doesn't have to remain stuck to the flat.

I like the heating the vaseline on top of the hinge and let it flow and cool down again. Alternatively I have ball bearing oil that come with needle nozzle so it will flow onto the pin if I use it.
I quit going to all that trouble and effort after testing the hinge glue to see what effect it would have, if it would freeze the hinge. It won't if you take just very small precaution.

The glue sets up fairly soon after exposure to air. I usually glue all the hinges in a line into one surface at a time. For example, I get all the wing hinges into the wing before doing the actual gluing into the ailerons. Right after all the hinges are into the wing, right after I screw the top back on the glue bottle, I start to flip the exposed hinge flats up and down. I want to insure that they're all "square", plus I want to see if there is excess glue on the hinge itself.

I have a damp Q-tip on hand. If there is any glue on the hinge, the Q-tip VERY EASILY solves that problem. Every time I wipe off some glue from a hinge, and it only takes one swipe with a wet Q-tip, I almost break my face grinning. Man, epoxy was a blitch to deal with, wasn't it. Not having to deal with the vaseline and having to deal with gummy, excess epoxy was a real chore. What's the expense of a couple Q-tips? and it's dead simple to do 100% clean and perfect.
BTW, I wouldn't be surprised if the "excess" water from the Q-tip doesn't actually help the water based hinge glue to dissapate around that area. Man, there really don't seem to be any "design flaws" with the stuff.

This hinge glue is AWESOME!!!! Darned if I'm ever going to go back to epoxy. And it's as quick as CA hinges overall. I've seen absolutely no downsides to it.
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