RE: Jett 76L Probs
dwcrow:
I have 6 of these things from a 35 to 90's and have never had a transition problem with the Jetts. After some 60 years of playing with these things, maby we can get it sorted out. Would like to know a couple of things about the engine please. Age, estmated gallons of use, front or remote needle. Ok, lets review basics first. Remove the needle and with a small copper or brass wire, run it through in all directions. If you have a needle in carb type, take the carb off and blow out the fuel exit from the bottom. Use a high pressure hose, first blow out the line from needle, then center, then fuel fule ends. If you have a nut and nylon insert on the needle side, order and replace it. While at it, order the carb O ring and replace it also. Blow out the system from the fuel side. You should be able to see through the needle system or at least light reflection with th remote needle system. Plastic tanks shed small pieces that can and will stop up the works, or worse yet, partially block a system. Ok, go to the fuel tank clean it out and replace all the lines inside and out including the bronz metal lines. If you are using aluminum metal, chuck them. Use good grade of fuel line, like DuBro, almost as good as the old and gone Prather. Do not omit this pain in the tail step. Re-set the idle needle per the Jett web site instructions and start her up with the main needle 5 turns out. Keep the glow igniter on the NEW OS8 plug and needle in until the engine is running a little rich but cleanly. Now throttle down and get the engine to idle correctly. Play with the idle screw until you have a reasonable idle speed. Open her up and re-adjust the high needle to normal rpm. Should not be far from when she gets on the pipe. Again check idle. It should idle without loading up or going lean for at least 45 seconds. Assume your piston/sleeve fit is still tight on top and you good compression? Just for grins, let le know how things work out. ENJOY