Well, if you're concerned my advice would be to think aboot a nut plate for underneath, i.e. a 1/2" wide strip of 1/8" Al or whatever with the holes drilled and tapped to fit, or nuts and washers underneath a clearance drilled plate. For the top surface, two strips of that 1/64" CA'ed to the top surface and running longitudinally would harden it up somewhat.
On my # 1 model, which so far has securely (really) held the West .50 and Jett .50 and been bounded on the nose once from a few feet up with no harm, I used the laminated mount plates as per the directions, filled in the lower area with scrap fill and blended it all in. Then I marked and drilled to clear a #6 machine screw, holes through the top of the bearers and straight down through the filler block material, and through the lower airframe skin (intentionally). The sheeted and filled areas had already been glassed already at this point. From the bottom, I then drilled 1/4" until I hit the plywood bearers, then I inset 1/4" dowels with thin CA in each hole. Then, once again from the top I drilled those right through, then around the bottom I drilled larger to accept T-nuts. I can reef right down on that and it seems to hold up fine. The short version: I bushed the holes with hardwood dowel and used T-nuts underneath.
Hopefully others will now chime in with their ideas. Does the nose ring deal and the two plates makes sense?
MJD
p.s. I see blue painter's tape. I love it! Use it all the time. I find it handy for the LE sheeting too. I found laying a metal rule along the LE against the forward edge of the rib, allowed me to pen a line along the LE back face where the sheeting glues and helped keep it straight as I moved along with fingers and glue. I also added extra 1/8" sq
AFAIK, since I've grown fond of laminating the LE, tip, and TE.