skubacb

I melt the hinges out. Use your soldering iron with a very long narrow tip. Make sure you melt into the very center of the hinge. Once you have most of the hinge out and the remaining hole is centered, you can use the appropriate drill for the hinge.

If you try to drill before melting out the center of the hinge the drill will just drift into the softer material surrounding the hinge.

BTW poly glue is the weakest of all of the wood glues. (Check the Fine Woodworking test of glues) The strongest is Titebond III which is a type 2 glue. The exception is gluing wood with a high oil content such as teak then use epoxy. This means to me that if I am doing a repair on wood that had some fuel exposure I would use epoxy rather than Titebond III. For a quicker setup time you can use Titebond II with only a small reduction in strength.

With epoxy or woodglue mix a little chopped fiberglass for added strength. This will also slow the glue from dripping out of the hole.

Always glue the hinges to the control surface first. Then while still wet move the hinge to the fully deflected position. Either visually or with a square make sure the hinges are 90 degrees to the control surface. Then let the hinge dry with the hinge down and the trailing edge of the control surface up. I have seen people do the opposite and most of the epoxy/glue slowly flowed out of the hole and dripped off the tip of the hinge point. Wait overnight before then installing to the vertical/horizontal stab or wing. Do the same here. Allow the glue to flow toward the hinge rather than drip off the end.