original: Stalyoni
...The swashplate on this heli is very flimsy I am definitely going to order the alum parts for this heli. My blades are not tracking well and when it takes off its leaning over to the right. I have already bent the stock flybar and chipped one of the paddles. I also noticed that when you throttle up the front servo makes the swashplate move forward as you give it more throttle. I have been trying to adjust the pitch knob on it to see if it will make it more stable with no much luck.
I sighted the swashplate and made sure it was level and made adjustments with the pitch and trims but when i take off it wants to lean over and go backwards. I think i need to watch nutcaze's (marc) videos on you tube again.
As for those GE Power lipos [that I bought off ebay] they fit in, but i find the battery belt a waist of time so I will try and get some more rubber bands to hold it in. It seems a little heavier then the stock one. But i dont mind putting a little more weight in this heli as I want it to fly more stable.
I only had one sucessful take off and flight so far. This TX is the same as the king 3 one but only 2.4ghz. They had actually reversed some of the switches on it so when i went to go forward the heli went back and i crashed. The last crash was into my foot and i got cut and the rotor head popped off a little. I really want to know how to setup the swash one this one. It frustrating me again like the king 3.
Hey again Brendon,
Which "Honeybee owners thread" is Gary (GTX_slotcar) on that can help us out?
The
elevator reverse switch was the other way on my Tx out of the box also - so i just flicked it with a pencil[sm=what_smile.gif]
NEVER - I SAY IT AGAIN, NEVER EVER reverse the "THR" switch on the front face of Tx
The bolded part (quoted from your post) above is not supposed to happen, so we will have to go back to smaller steps to set up this bird.
PART 1
A single-rotor bird is more difficult to set-up than a coaxial - but not as time consuming as a CP!!
Run-in your motors initially (this will increase the power later on[sm=wink_smile.gif]) by:
SLOWLY spin up your bird - just TWO clicks of the throttle - the main blades & tail will start to spin around the same time. Leave the throttle in that position for 5 minutes (you may want to do something else). Return and increase throttle TWO more clicks and leave the room for a second 5 minutes. Return and raise the throttle by another 4 clicks - your bird should start to vibrate a little now - slide the rudder trim to hold the tail as still as poss pointing at you. Keep it like that for another 5 minutes. One more increase of the throttle - I won't tell you how many clicks 'cause it will depend on your bird - but only until it is light on the skids - keep the throttle at that position for another 5 minutes (the last one)....
Be thankful that you didn't have to unscrew your motor and dip it into a glass of clean water - [link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVxf_6vFB1o]a water run-in[/link][sm=tongue_smile.gif]
Now that is done - we can proceed with set-up. When you are spinning up does that tail motor go at different speeds and cut out altogether sometimes?
With the
main motor DISCONNECTED - the bottom motor plug slide straight out of 4in1 (see first pic) - move the cyclic control. For mode2 this is the right stick. When stick is pushed level left - the aileron servo on the port side will go down to the bottom pulling the swashplate to full left tilt! When stick is pushed level right - the aileron servo on the port side will travel up to its full top pushing the swashplate to full right tilt! Now the elevator servo. When the cyclic stick is moved up the swashplate tilts forwards - the elevator (in front of the main axis) moves down pulling the swashplate tilt to the front. And lastly, when the cyclic stick is moved down the elevator servo moves up pushing the swashplate tilt towards the rear.
When let self-center the Tx springs pull the sticks back to the neutral position - moving the swashplate level again via the control arms - which can be adjusted by means of a thread along part of their length. If your swashplate is
not level your bird will not hover even close to one place!
To adjust the control arms - pop off the balljoint using balljoint pliers, long-nose pliers, or your fingernail. To lengthen - twist CCW - to shorten - twist CW (a half-twist or a full-twist) and pop the balljoint back on. REPEAT UNTIL YOUR SWASHPLATE
LOOKS LEVEL.
Here is a good place to bring up "Center of Gravity" (CG). For such a light helicopter the CG is very important. It can be quickly and affectively adjusted by using the position of your lipo. Place the flybar at 90ยบ to the fuselage (see second pic), and balance your bird here - securing the lipo more forward if the canopy is lighter, or move and secure the lipo more towards the tail if this is the light-weight end......
Now the left stick - rudder (or tail motor as some fliers call it). Give yourself some room to move and for God's sake - BE CAREFUL OF SPINNING TAIL MOTOR BLADES........Give the throttle FOUR clicks up. When the rudder stick is moved towards the left - the tail motor speeds up - swinging the NOSE to the left, and when the rudder stick is moved towards the right - the tail motor slows - having less affect - allowing the torque of the main rotors (on this FP they spin CW) to turn the helicopter so the NOSE of the helicopter moves towards the right.
Clear so far?[sm=72_72.gif] Good.
Peter[sm=49_49.gif]
P.S. Since you know what you are doing with the Tx, now is a good time to take the back off it and cover the rachet-action with fuel pipe
