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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> S.P.A.D. Aircraft - Coroplast design >> Its not coro but
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Its not coro but - 12/21/2003 1:07 AM   
southern_touch9


 

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I know this one isnt made of coro but it is made of the same kind of foam that the ESPAD is made out of. This was designed by a friend of mine and mine is the 2nd one out there. I scratched it from a set of measurments. Some of you might have already seen it in the profile room (errr...funfly I mean).

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/21/2003 1:21 AM   
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Very nice. I'm working on something VERY similar.
http://rcsites.net/qcoldir/foam_flat_wing_funfly.html

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/21/2003 1:39 AM   
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Not a bad looking bird at all. What are you going to power it with?

Mine 3D's out of this world and comes in just a fraction over 4lbs.

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/21/2003 2:06 AM   
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I was gonna put a MECOA 46 on it, but I'm gonna put that on a bipe I'm working on. I think my MDS 40 will go on it to start.

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/21/2003 4:16 PM   
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I hope yours turns out at good as this one has. You would be stunned at the way it flies. 3D is a blast and it will do EVERY trick in the book, plus decent precision work if you want to. Point rolling circles are really easy as are rolling loops. Comparing it with the SPAD3D is like comparing apples with Oranges . The spad3D hovers easier and doesnt break and thats about the only thing it has on the foam yak . I will give a full review of it later (either tonight or on monday).

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/22/2003 12:50 AM   
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Where do you get this foam...what is it?

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/22/2003 1:48 AM   
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You can get the foam from ANY hardware store. Its just 1/2" Dow Foam (comes in 8' X 4' sheets for around $7) used for insulation in a house.
Of course there is some balsa (1/16, and a fair amount of tristock) and a small amount of hardwood rails involved. I flew this airplane twice today. It keeps your fingers busy thats for sure. My other 3D planes are somewhat cumbersome but everything with this Yak is very crisp. I had fun breaking rule #9 a couple of times today. Lots of hovering, some TR's, A bunch of waterfalls, flatspins and blenders. And a fair amount of harrier flight in the mix. Plus it Knife Edges a lot better than ANYTHING I have ever flown.



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RE: Its not coro but - 12/22/2003 3:00 AM   
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I am building mine from blue foam insulation I got from Lowe's. It came in a 4x8 sheet and is 3/4 inch thick. About $8 or $9 for the sheet...I can't remember. For glue I'm using bothProBond poly glue and epoxy. The epoxy I got at Lowe's and is called Devcon high strength 5 minute epoxy. It has been working GREAT and is totally foam safe. The ProBond poly glue I got at Menard's. Lowe's didn't have any. I used the Probond to glue the dowl spars in because it foams up and totally covers the spars. The Epoxy is being used for the motor mount and to glue the wing and horizontal stab on. I'm planning on covering mine with sign vinyl. Don't really need to but I want to make it look cool.

I'm glad to hear yours worked so well. Do you have alink to the other thread on this (in the profile section)? Also I'd like to know some specs on your, namely vital measurements.

Thanks!

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/22/2003 5:22 AM   
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It may not be coro but it IS SPAD, looks almost to easy to build, hoe's it all strengthened?? CF rod or bass wood in the foam??


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RE: Its not coro but - 12/22/2003 5:39 AM   
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I got my idea/start from crazyherb. He's been coaching me a bit.
http://www.crazyherb.com/
I run a hardwood dowl on top and bottom of the wing for a spar. I just cut a trench and poly glue it in. The wing is 48 inches and so are the dowls, so no cutting. I am also running a hardwood dowl along the fuse on each side. Kinda like a spar for the fuse. Look at crazyherb's site for how he built the Plank 40.

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/22/2003 3:49 PM   
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Well for fues strength I have two 10" hardwood rails used for mounting the engine and giving the front more rigidity. Then I sheet the mid section of both of the fues sides with 4"wide X 1/16th thick balsa.

For the wing its just one 2"Wide X 1/16th balsa (per top and bottom) running the whole length of the wing at roughly 20-25% of the chord. I have also sheeted the center section of the wing on top and bottom with (you guessed it) 1/16th balsa.

The only other wood involved was the 1/2" tri stock used on the control surfaces. This gives the robart hinge points something to grab on to and its a really easy way to double bevel the crap out of the surface for 85-90 degrees of deflection (not that my servos can do that but its possible). I also used some tristock running where the wing joins the fues on the top and bottom of wing.

All of the glue used was 5min. epoxy and sig-bond (sigs version of probond). I like the sig-bond better than epoxy b/c it weighs less after drying. From the test results I have seen 1/4oz. of sigbond dries lighter than 1/4oz. of CA (yeah I said CA). But the catch is you have to use more sig-bond b/c its kinda thick like wood glue).

As of right now there is only one set of "plans" out there and its in some CAD format. I built mine from measurments and talking back in forth with the designer. I have talked to the guy who designed it and he says he doesnt mind if I share the measurments. I will look them up and post them later today. Unfortunatly I dont have any construction pics of this one but I am designing my own .25 sized Edge540 right now (same format) and I will get the web cam out and take some shots of it (quality will be low but you can get the idea).

These take good bit longer to build than say the spad3d b/c there is a lot of waiting around to let the probond dry. But build wise its simple as dirt. I didnt think it would ever hold up but Bill Mixon (the designer) has WAY over 100 flights on his and I am approaching the 20 mark on this one. I have broken the rudder twice (tail touching pretty hard) but I have also done the same with several balsa models.

All in all its an all out 3D machine (and will out 3D my modified Laser3D, and the UCD) by a long shot. BUT, since it is breakable (even a little more so than balsa) I wouldnt really rate it as a "3D trainer", it really needs to be flown by someone who has the understanding that a high speed dive and a sharp yank will fold the wings (beleive me I know this is NO. 2 for me ). I didnt do the wing fold in normal flight I did it kind of stress testing the airplane and I had a pretty good feeling of what was going to happen before I even did it. I think maybe a small CF rod mounted under the 1/16 balsa would make it a lot stronger but thats $$ and I am looking for a cheap plane.

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/22/2003 3:55 PM   
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A quick pic of me Torque Rolling it on flight NO. 2

I should have also added in the previous post that there was one small hardwood rail running vertically to conect the two 10" rails. The location of this rail is right behind the engine cut out.

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< Message edited by southern_touch9 -- 12/22/2003 10:56:14 AM >


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RE: Its not coro but - 12/22/2003 4:17 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: southern_touch9

Mine 3D's out of this world and comes in just a fraction over 4lbs.


Is that with the engine or without ?

I'm interested. It doesn't look like it will handle as much abuse as coro and aluminum but is probably more rigid and maybe thats why it flys through manuevers like knife edges better.

So did you paint yours?
{because thre is no way, I'm flying a pink airplane...lol }

< Message edited by 2MuchThrow -- 12/22/2003 11:23:40 AM >


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RE: Its not coro but - 12/22/2003 4:36 PM   
southern_touch9


 

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Notice mine is blue

The foam can be purchased in pink or blue. The only painting I did was on the balsa to somewhat fuelproof it and so my nasty finger prints wouldnt show up.

And yes that is the AUW with the engine, radio gear, rods, everything except the flow fuel.

And your right, it doesnt take nearly the kind of abuse that coro and aluminum takes. When it hits the ground its more like a light weight balsa plane. But it will fly through all of the manuevers. With such big sides very little rudder is ever needed in things like, field length rolls, point rolls, knife edges and even Harrier rolls.

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/22/2003 5:03 PM   
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You got me all excited to get mine done now. I have to admit that I put it aside to finish a SPAD P51 because I had my doubts on how it would fly.

I'm committed to the P51 now, but after that this profile is getting done.

Thanks!

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/22/2003 5:28 PM   
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Southern_Touch....you got a pretty plane there.

Yes, this foam stuff provides much more flexibility for looks I would think than coro. And, the application and combination of this cheap foam "inside" of the coro sounds like something worth investigating as well.

Why not build a profile P-51....from foam....?

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/22/2003 5:29 PM   
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quote:

Why not build a profile P-51....from foam....?


It would be hard to get the retracts inside the flat wing

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/22/2003 5:35 PM   
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It would be hard to get the retracts inside the flat wing
___
Oh, such a small obstacle....

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/22/2003 6:01 PM   
southern_touch9


 

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Im not really into P-51's so I will leave that out there for the warbird guys . If it doesnt torque roll, blender, harrier, etc. then I dont want it

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/22/2003 6:46 PM   
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These are the same measurments that I build mine from

Tallest point on the front portion of fuse. is. 6.625"
Canopy starts at 10.375" from front of fuse.
Ends at 18" from front.
Height at front of canopy 6.3125"
Height at rear of canopy 7.5"
Peak height of fuse 8.625"
39.5" long not counting rudder or rear tri stock.
Vertical stab section is 9" high not counting rudder counter balance.
Narrowest section at rear of fuse is 4.75"
Rudder is 11.5" tall X 6.75 front to back.

Wing root chord is 16"
Tip chord is 8"
Aileron is 3.5" wide at tip
5.25 wide at root
48" span

Horizontal tail span 22.25"
Root chord approx 9"
tip chord 5.75"
Stab span is 17.5"
Hinge point is approx 35-40% back from leading edge of stab.

Hinge point or rear edge of horizontal stab is 2" in front of vertical stab rear edge.

Leading edge of wing is 4.875" back from front of fuse.

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/22/2003 7:31 PM   
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Those measurements are pretty close to mine. Based on that info I think I'll make my ailerons 1 1/2 inches bigger at the root. Mine was only 4 inches.

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/22/2003 8:03 PM   
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You dont have to do that It rolls like bullet on high rates. Of course it does help in harrier rolls.

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/26/2003 3:41 AM   
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The name of the foam is "Fan Fold". It does come in pink and blue, but the pink isn't quite as stiff and the blue.
Southern_touch9, did you get your idea from a guy in Eastman? I have a friend there that builds a lot of fan fold airplanes, but he usually powers his with electric motors.

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RE: Its not coro but - 12/27/2003 12:38 AM   
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Your talking about Ken right? And no I didnt get the idea from him. He builds a lot of little electric park flyer type of airplanes. A couple of 3D'ish looking planes but with no rudder and not enough power . Bill Mixon, a friend of mine from Kite GA is the one who actually designed the airplane and thats where I got the idea from. As a matter of fact when Ken saw the airplane at the Hodges Hobbies Fall fly-in he said that it would never work , with two of them going and well over 150 flights between the two I think he will see the light sooner or later. I am building a CG Extreme 330 profile for someone now and it will have the same motor on it that my foam yak has. I cant wait to see how they compare.

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