soarrich

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Here's a few pictures of my Skybench OLY II. It was an easy build. I made a few mods:

I added turbulator spars, two on the inter panels, one on the tip panels.

I rapped the spar with Kevlar thread.

I changed the Di, and Poly angles.

I removed the rudder counter balance, and made a built up fin.

I moved the spoilers out on the wing, using only thee bays, moved the spoilers 1" back from the spars, and drive the blades wirh a HiTec 81 in each wing.

Too give it that HI TECK look, I used carbonfiber rods rather than the stock pine dowels for the rubberband holddowns.

I glassed in a support for the stab and pushrod exits also.

All these mods except the servos and the Kevlar and CF I had used in the mid '80's on my OLY II and it flew great, this one does too.

Rich Border

soarrich

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Here's the stab support.

Rick K

My Feedback: (6)

Hi again Rich, Really nice work, I wish I could cover as well as you do. I plan to use HS-80's (15oz Tq.) I happen to have from an old 2m electric I have around for my spoilers in the Viking, hope they're enough.
Rick K
LSF 6493

ejett

My Feedback: (4)

Rick:

I'm using Hitec HS-55's for the spoilers in my BoT and they seem to be fine for the task. No problems so far! I think you will be OK with the HS-80's on your Viking.

EJ

ejett

My Feedback: (4)

Rich:

Could you post a picture showing the turbulator spars? I would like to see the relative locations of the turbulators to the LE and spar, if possible.

Great job on a classic!!

EJ

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

EJ

I just put the turbulator spars at 1/3 and 2/3s the the distance between the LE and Main spar on the center panels, 1/2 the distance on the tips. I used one tubulator spar on the tips just to keep the weight down. On this plane I used 1/8th square spruce, on the ones I built in the '80s I used 1/8 spruce, 1/8 balsa, and 1/8 x 1/4 balsa, I like the 1/8th square spruce the best.

I the '80s I did a test with trip strips on a 100!QUOT! E-205 full sheeted wing, it convinced me that TS would be a plus, this is what I did:

First I put one TS on the right wing @ 25%, the plane launched normally, but when in cruise it turned left. That told me the TS was getting the right wing to make more lift at cruise.

Next I put a TS on the left wing @ 15%, the plane pulled to the right on launch, then left in cruise. This told me that the 15% TS worked at Higher angles of attack, (during launch), and the 25% TS was working at lower AOA.

I put a second TS on the right wing @ 15%, now the plane launched straight, but went left in cruise. I then put a second TS on the left wing @ 25%, now the plane launched straight, and cruised straight.

I add TSs to my daughters, ('85 JR National Champion in Unlimited, Standard, and Two Meter, flying OLY II and OLY 650), but built her OLY II stock otherwise. The first time I flew it I thought I was having radio failure, the response was so sloooow. When I built my Ex's OLY II, ( first woman Expert in the ESL, big wins like CASA & Valley Forge in Sportsman class), I did all the mods that I've mentioned, it flew so much better than stock I had to rebuild my daughters plane with the mods. I couldn't add the extra Di angle, so I added extra poly to bring the tips up as high as my Ex's tips, this worked. The difference between the two was that with extra Di and Poly the plane handled like a Paragon, with just the extra Poly, it handled like a Mirage. The Paragon grooved better, turned slower, the Mirage felt tippy and hunter around some, but could really stand on the tip in a tight turn.

ejett

My Feedback: (4)

Rich:

How about publishing the amounts of dihedral and polyhedral you used on the plane for me. I would prefer if you specify it in inches rather than degrees.

I am seriously considering purchase of one of these planes.

EJ

SoCal GliderGuider

So you made a Paragon out of the Oly II. Interesting.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

ejett

2 1/2in at the poly break, then with the center section flat on the table. 5in to the tip's last rib.

SCGG

No, there still very different planes. First the Paragon is Unlimited class, the OLY II is Standard. Second the Paragon moved around the sky better, but the OLY II will out hang it in dead air. You have to fly each plane very differently, with the Paragon I searched the sky much more, the OLY II I kind of hung around at minimum sink until I ran into lift. I'm not saying I don't look for lift with the OLY II, just that I never speed over to where I think lift is like I would with the Paragon, I just minimum sink my way over.

kentreade

Rich,

I also have an Oly II with wing just completed. I find that my Skybench kit for the fuse is quite a bit off from the plans. The two fuse sides, forward and rear, are about 5/8" short of the plan fuse. Also, there are no notches in any of the fuse sides for formers, all of which have tabs! Finally, the two-piece fuse sides do not go together along the splice in the necessart angle to match the overall profile of the plan fuse. I've seen threads mentioning problems with Skybench kits, so I know I'm not alone. Did you have these problems? I'm not an experienced builder, so it's a bit of a problem for me. I don't know whether I can just build my fuse 5/8" short, or whether I need to go, again, to the hobby shop and buy more balsa. I don't think I have the means to cut neat notches and slots in the pieces for the formers. Can I just cut the tabs off the formers and count on epoxy to give me a durable structure?

Kent

soarrich

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Kent
I can't remember if mine had tabs or not, I remember tabs, but I was building my Viking at the same time, I know it had tabs. First relax, it's a great kit! The only problem is the plans are for the Airitronics kit, the instructions are for the Whyte kit, (I don't think that's spelled correctly). and Ray at SkyBench changed the cutting of the kit. That all sounds terrible, but it's not, it's a much stronger plane. You've done the wing which is the only part that I wasn't thrilled with. The shear-webs in my kit where not cut very well and they where up to 1/16 inch off, which was a big deal.

The things I remember about the fuse are:

The old plans show a diagonal splice under the wing, Ray makes it a vertical splice that you double with a small piece of ply that works fine, but I found when putting the push-rods in the splice is a problem.

The holes for the push-rods are cut too low, I put the rods in, then when I was installing the radio I had to hack up the bulkhead at the front of the wing to raise the rods.

The last little bulkhead back by the stab, throw it away. Ray made a nice change by cutting the bottomrear piece for you, rather than having you cross sheet the aft fuse. Between the bottom aft laser cut piece and the piece that fits right under the stab your fuse will be straight.
.........................

If I was building another fuse I would make the splice shorter so it wouldn't bump the push-rod out, and I would make the holes higher so the radio fits better.

I'm going to go to bed now, but tomorrow I'll take some pictures of inside of my fuse, post them and finish my comments on the fuse.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Here's some pictures:

First is the radio compartment. The spoiler servos are in the wing, so only the rudder, elevator servos are in the fuse. The receiver is rapped in foam, then the switch. I mount the switch crosswise in the fuse, then run the cord through little holes in the sides of the fuse, I call them cat's whiskers, very light, low drag, and can't be turned of accidentally.

Second is a picture showing the way I had to relieve the spruce for the servo to clear, I don't remember if the spruce is called for in the plans, if not, put it there.

Third is how I do the canopy. I glue the first inch or so of the canopy to the fuse, then with a zona saw I just cut it at a 45* angle, this locks the front of the canopy down, the you can put a rubber band around it, or a screw through the back, or do as I do, once you get the balance right tape it closed. I never open the canopy up, I did for the pictures, now that its open I'll take the quarters out and put lead in for the nose weight.

tunabiker

It sounds like your wings are good...watch the fuse! My plans from Skybench had the fuse distorted such that when I aligned the sides on the plan, they curved in opposite directions. The fuse sides should be STRAIGHT along the bottom. I found (my second attempt) it was best to build them together against a straight edge and use the plans for location of the formers, etc. The kit is good, just a bit difficult to decipher the in structions.
Good luck. My plane flies well and is a good trainer and performer.
Bill

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

The first picture is how I had to raise the holes, after building the fuse. It also shows some other things:

I use Amboid glue to strengthen all glue joints. I build with a bottle of 10 second CA in one hand and a bottle of kicker in the other, but I then go back and slop Ambiod everywhere, makes for super strong joints, I don't use much epoxy anymore.

My charging jack and two spoiler servo leads come back to the under wing compartment, I don't open the radio compartment all season.

I put in a piece of scrap ply to make the ply floor a little thicker where the tow hook come through.

I used CF rods rather than the pine dowels, As Bill Clinton says, Because I could.

I added triangle stock along the bottom edges of the fuse. To get the triangle stock to go from nose block to the back of the under wing compartment, I cut a little bit of the formers at the corners. If you don't have tabs on the formers, from looking at my fuse I don't think I did, don't worry, it just means you have to put them in the correct spot yourself. On the plans draw lines extending the bulkheads above and below the fuse sides, mark both inside sides. then with the fuse side on the plans install the bulkheads at the front of the wing and at the back of the wing, keeping it square. After the bulkheads are attached to the one side, I think you can pick up the fuse, put the other side on it with the ply floor, and balsa aft flooring in place, like it would be sitting on the workbench, get every thing to fit right, then tack it with so CA. I then slid the triangle stock in, then sat the nose block in. With the nose block in place, put a little epoxy on it's sides and clamp the sides on to it. I don't remember if the noseblock sits on the ply floor or not, if it does put a little epoxy on the bottom also and clamp the floor to it also. I then CA the tri-stock in. Install the rods before you put the top aft fuse skin on.

The second picture just shows the overall view, notice the scrap doubler I put over the ply/balsa floor joint, if you don't put it there, it will crack there in the future.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Oh, I forgot, I couldn't find the ply/balsa side fuse splice, it must be behind the former at the back of the under wing compartment.

kentreade

Rich and Tunabiker,
Thank you kindly for the many construction tips. They are very helpful and give me some confidence to make adjustments when things don't line up with the plans. I especially like the cat's whiskers idea of how to handle the switch and leaving that compartment closed once the plane is balanced. Rich anticipated many of my questions, and I also like Bill's idea of using the straight edge to get the fuse right.

As my rear balsa fuse sides are about 1/2" short of the plan (shorter after reworking the splice joint), I'm wondering if I should make new pieces for the sides, or whether 1/2" to 5/8" shorter isn't such a big deal (so that overall fuse would be about 48 1/2" instead of 49"). What would you guys suggest?

Kent

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Kent

The plane is not pitch sensitive, so you can get away with it, I don't think you would notice it while flying.

Make the fuse strong, I glassed mine. On these older designs, '70s~'80s, the weight is the motor, you don't need to build the fuse light. On the current design sailplanes the airfoil is so slippery that you want them as light as you can make them, but these are slow draggy sailplanes, if they are too light they don't move around very well. Enjoy the slow floating style of the OLY II, don't try to full petal launch, float it up the launch, although this wing is probably twice as strong as the one I flew in the '80s I still go tap tap tap tap on the wench.

kentreade

Thank, Rich. I'll go ahead and build it a little short, which is really only about 1 1/2 % shorter than the plan. Thanks again for the great tips.

Kent

kentreade

By the way, I wanted to post an update to my comments and questions about my Skybench Oly II kit. After several emails with Ray Hayes of Skybench, we figured out that the reason the plans and the kit did not match up was because the process of reproducing the plans had actually lengthened the plans longitudinally by as much as 1/2" over the length of the fuselage. He was unaware of this particular problem until our correspondence. He has the original Lee Renaud mylar plans, so at last contact he was in search of another printer to reproduce accurate copies of the plans. When I received the kit, the first thing I did was go to Kinkos and get two copies of both sheets of plans. I used the plans from Ray to build my Oly. If I had used the copies from Kinkos, the distortion would have been even greater by another 3/16". While I was reassured that the kit pieces were accurate, locating the pieces like fuse formers, ect, on the plan was very difficult, though not impossible once I factored in the distortion. Since none of the wing parts are precut to length (spar, leading and trailing edges), the greater length in the plans was not a problem, just produced a slightly longer wingspan by about 1" overall, nothing to complain about. Despite the above problems, the kit quality is very good. Very nice balsa, better than I can find in my local hobby shop. Soarrich's suggestions and photos were very helpful. Thanks.

Kent

ejett

My Feedback: (4)

This plan reproduction issue with Skybench plans has been mentioned on RC Groups in a Big Bird construction thread as well. So, if you are going to build a Skybench product, CHECK the plans FIRST!

EJ

pepperkay

Hi All:

I'm looking for any one who has information on the OLY II ... the Airtronics - Whyte or other versions ...

Built several of them from Lee Renaud pencil drawings way back when and have decided to start flying again ...

Would like to build an OLY II with updates/upgrades and get out and start thermal hunting once more ...

Any info, suggestions or tips are certainly appreciated ...

Thanks a bunch,

Pepper Kay
AMA # 3937
LSF Level IV # 3335
Garland, TX
[email protected]
[email protected]

pepperkay

Hi Again:

For some reason, my e-mail addressess are not coming across quite right ...

Here they are again: [email protected] or [email protected] ...

Well, golly ... I just did a PREVIEW' and they're still not coming out correctly ... I'm sure y'all will figure them out when you see them ...

Again, many thanks,

Pepper Kay
AMA # 3937
LSF Level IV # 3335
Garland, TX

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

There's a great builder doing a thread now at

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=467160