MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
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MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
I figured lets start a specific thread concerning the SB V2 so we can discuss issues found, hot mods, and our race experiences.
I have completed my initial build less of course the body painting and here are some things I have found for the USA version (re-inferno's issues are all still present):
1. The steering drag link doesn't give enough throw, I went with a turnbuckle / ball cup setup and now have maximum throw. Will see how well this holds up.
2. The diff setup still bottoms out similar to the SB V1, however it feels alot smoother than before. Will run it stock to see how it holds up.
3. Chassis with all the cutouts allows a good amount of flex. This may be an issue on certain tracks, looking to see about going with a graphite chassis when it becomes available.
4. Kit didn't include the washers that go over the front axles before mounting the hex to the cone. Contacted MRC to see about getting them in. Without them the wheels have a slight wobble
5. Rear droop is adversely affected by the fact the dogbones will pop out at certain angles. I went with an o-ring in each axle to push the dogbones in more but made sure that maximum compression of the shocks didn't hit the diff cups. Appears to be working.
6. Mounting of the Tekin G-10 speed control didn't have enough mounting surface. Will rig up a mounting plate to use.
7. Motor mounting system is SIGNIFICANTLY better than the old setup.
8. Spur Gears are nice and big and the slipper is easy to adjust.
9. The FRP chassis components feel higher quality than the SB V1s, not sure why, they just do.
10. Suspension components are significantly stiffer than the previous setup.
11. The front hingepin brace is plastic along with the bulkhead. This could be an issue. An alloy one should be pretty easy to manufacture.
12. Outdrives are composite with composite savers. Alloy savers would be a nice touch on the pro as I am not sure how these will hold up but will thrash them good with a 9 turn to see how it goes.
All in all I like the SB V2 better than the V1 based on initial build. I plan to run the vehicle this weekend through a good bash session and possibly on the track utilizing a 9T motor.
I have completed my initial build less of course the body painting and here are some things I have found for the USA version (re-inferno's issues are all still present):
1. The steering drag link doesn't give enough throw, I went with a turnbuckle / ball cup setup and now have maximum throw. Will see how well this holds up.
2. The diff setup still bottoms out similar to the SB V1, however it feels alot smoother than before. Will run it stock to see how it holds up.
3. Chassis with all the cutouts allows a good amount of flex. This may be an issue on certain tracks, looking to see about going with a graphite chassis when it becomes available.
4. Kit didn't include the washers that go over the front axles before mounting the hex to the cone. Contacted MRC to see about getting them in. Without them the wheels have a slight wobble
5. Rear droop is adversely affected by the fact the dogbones will pop out at certain angles. I went with an o-ring in each axle to push the dogbones in more but made sure that maximum compression of the shocks didn't hit the diff cups. Appears to be working.
6. Mounting of the Tekin G-10 speed control didn't have enough mounting surface. Will rig up a mounting plate to use.
7. Motor mounting system is SIGNIFICANTLY better than the old setup.
8. Spur Gears are nice and big and the slipper is easy to adjust.
9. The FRP chassis components feel higher quality than the SB V1s, not sure why, they just do.
10. Suspension components are significantly stiffer than the previous setup.
11. The front hingepin brace is plastic along with the bulkhead. This could be an issue. An alloy one should be pretty easy to manufacture.
12. Outdrives are composite with composite savers. Alloy savers would be a nice touch on the pro as I am not sure how these will hold up but will thrash them good with a 9 turn to see how it goes.
All in all I like the SB V2 better than the V1 based on initial build. I plan to run the vehicle this weekend through a good bash session and possibly on the track utilizing a 9T motor.
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RE: MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
Putting an o-ring in the rear axle to move the dogbone further into the diff outdrive...wish that was a tip in the manual. My outdrive shredded and out went the dogbone. To get more steering trow I put the ball studs in holes 2 and A and slightly shaved the tip of the steering rack and I now have full throw.
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RE: MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
Thats great. I'll look into adding it to the FAQ.
So how are everyone's V2s doing?
Any news?
By the way, did everyone's V2s come with the shims for the front axles? mine didn't, not sure if that normal.
So how are everyone's V2s doing?
Any news?
By the way, did everyone's V2s come with the shims for the front axles? mine didn't, not sure if that normal.
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RE: MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
My v2 came with shims. they are the same ones that are used to shim the diffs. but I am missing a screw. I had to borrow one of the ones that holds the battery tray in.
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RE: MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
Hey Everyone.
I got to finally do some bashing sessions with my SB. Here is my current setup:
ESC – Tekin G10 Pro +
DX3 Specktrum Radio System
Hitec 945MG
Orion V2 9 turn single
Stock battery and motor configuration
Fusion Tires with Losi Firm Foams
Modded center Steering link for maximum throw
Teflon #3 piston front, #4 rear
30W AE oil front and rear
Front shock tower stock location, Rear 1 in from outer most location
Front A arm stock location, Rear A arm outer location
Stock Springs
Front and Rear Arms level
Gearing: 80T / 16T
With this setup for bashing the vehicle had great off to mid power steering full power had some 4wd push. The thing I really noticed that I liked was that the rear off of jumps and bumps would not bottom out like my SB V1 Sport or Pro would do. Initial Battery pack run had some diff chirping issues, retightening seemed to clear that up but will watch this area.
Jumping consisted of repeated hitting those black BMX jumps you can purchase at Toys R us, I believe about 1 – 1.5 feet at the highest point. Similar to the jumps I have used before when running indoors on carpet over jumps. The V2 sailed true and was easy to correct in mid flight, better than my V1 Sport or Pro in fact.
The stiffeness of the suspension parts compared to the V1 displayed itself well during various types of turns with diffent levels of power, the vehicle felt more direct than the similar plastic V1 Sport. I am very interested in trying the vehicle on the track to see how well it steers and handles the chassis flex. The flex on the local tracks may not be an issue. On high traction surfaces however you will want to op for graphite components I believe.
The steering and droop mods appear to have held up well and I would recommend trying them. For durability, the vehicle did quite well, I hit a tree at about mid power and it can away unscathed. I also took a few jumps wrong, which made the local kids excited from the flips the buggy did and it came away again in one piece with little road rash.
I hope to stop by the track this weekend and get some laps in. Most likely trying out the Fusions first but going to holeshots I believe will be the best bet. If things are fluffier than I anticipate I will go with Losi IFMAR Studs .
Some issues I need addressed separately will be that every so often my setup would either catch a glitch on full power starts or when the power started to go down, it would either have full power to the servo or full power to the motor. Also, I am not sure of gearing yet, but venting may need to be done. I’ll see about setting up the vehicle without the undertray and see how it goes for heat.
I got to finally do some bashing sessions with my SB. Here is my current setup:
ESC – Tekin G10 Pro +
DX3 Specktrum Radio System
Hitec 945MG
Orion V2 9 turn single
Stock battery and motor configuration
Fusion Tires with Losi Firm Foams
Modded center Steering link for maximum throw
Teflon #3 piston front, #4 rear
30W AE oil front and rear
Front shock tower stock location, Rear 1 in from outer most location
Front A arm stock location, Rear A arm outer location
Stock Springs
Front and Rear Arms level
Gearing: 80T / 16T
With this setup for bashing the vehicle had great off to mid power steering full power had some 4wd push. The thing I really noticed that I liked was that the rear off of jumps and bumps would not bottom out like my SB V1 Sport or Pro would do. Initial Battery pack run had some diff chirping issues, retightening seemed to clear that up but will watch this area.
Jumping consisted of repeated hitting those black BMX jumps you can purchase at Toys R us, I believe about 1 – 1.5 feet at the highest point. Similar to the jumps I have used before when running indoors on carpet over jumps. The V2 sailed true and was easy to correct in mid flight, better than my V1 Sport or Pro in fact.
The stiffeness of the suspension parts compared to the V1 displayed itself well during various types of turns with diffent levels of power, the vehicle felt more direct than the similar plastic V1 Sport. I am very interested in trying the vehicle on the track to see how well it steers and handles the chassis flex. The flex on the local tracks may not be an issue. On high traction surfaces however you will want to op for graphite components I believe.
The steering and droop mods appear to have held up well and I would recommend trying them. For durability, the vehicle did quite well, I hit a tree at about mid power and it can away unscathed. I also took a few jumps wrong, which made the local kids excited from the flips the buggy did and it came away again in one piece with little road rash.
I hope to stop by the track this weekend and get some laps in. Most likely trying out the Fusions first but going to holeshots I believe will be the best bet. If things are fluffier than I anticipate I will go with Losi IFMAR Studs .
Some issues I need addressed separately will be that every so often my setup would either catch a glitch on full power starts or when the power started to go down, it would either have full power to the servo or full power to the motor. Also, I am not sure of gearing yet, but venting may need to be done. I’ll see about setting up the vehicle without the undertray and see how it goes for heat.
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RE: MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
The SB V2 is incredibly durable on 4wd standards. The original sb sport was about the same as other 4wd's durability. I have marshalled many 4wd qualifiers and watched 6 out of the 10 buggies go down (mostly losi's and the occasional lazer zx-5). I raced a whole series (6 saturdays) and only broke one front arm and a front hub carrier.
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RE: MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
I would say the SB V2 is as durable as the last buggy suspension parts wise which is saying alot as the SB Sport parts were more flexible so they would most likely strip out instead of breaking in alot of instances. I would recommend the SB V2 as long as you do some of the mods stated here. Drop me an email as I have some info for your purchase.
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RE: MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
what is the info and what mods are needed and when i race im going to need a lot of torque i race on a small track i would mostly be bashing
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RE: MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
I always liked to have a 19 turn motor in my aresonal as a short track motor. I really liked the Reedy Quad Mag, but the Orion Element (non V2 version) made great torque too. You could also try a 14 turn Trinity Cobalt 1 or 2.
For mods on the V2, the main thing you will want is to due the center steering link mod (basically go to a ball cup and turnbuckle setup so you can increase your steering range), use B4 diff springs in the diffs, and put o-rings into the rear axles to space the dog bones into the diff cups more on the rear (1 oring per axle is what I used). That should get you started. You will probably also want to go to better shocks, AE shocks or Academys will work fine. Also AE springs work great on the buggy.
Finally, I prefer the Teflon coated pistons, #3 front and #4 rears.
If you are in the need of some new rims and tires (I have Ifmar studs and Proline holeshots mounted, NEW) let me know.
For mods on the V2, the main thing you will want is to due the center steering link mod (basically go to a ball cup and turnbuckle setup so you can increase your steering range), use B4 diff springs in the diffs, and put o-rings into the rear axles to space the dog bones into the diff cups more on the rear (1 oring per axle is what I used). That should get you started. You will probably also want to go to better shocks, AE shocks or Academys will work fine. Also AE springs work great on the buggy.
Finally, I prefer the Teflon coated pistons, #3 front and #4 rears.
If you are in the need of some new rims and tires (I have Ifmar studs and Proline holeshots mounted, NEW) let me know.
#15
RE: MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
I have been playing with a few SBV2's running 7x1 and 8x3 brushed motors with no problems at all, the drivetrain in these new SB are tough and quality.
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RE: MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
Hey Guys, just wanted to send out a quick intro. My name is DAVE GRABOSKI and am MRC's new RC car product manager. I have a strong background in chassis design/geometry as well as drivetrain logistics. I have raced with and beaten some of the best drivers in the world, mainly in offroad. MRC, Academy and my main goal for this upcoming onroad season is to build a full fledged hardcore race team. We have already signed 2 guys from the northeast that have contributed to a jump in sales in that area. If you have any questions about the latest releases or even the older items that MRC/ACADEMY has released feel free to write or give me a call. I will try and help any way I can. I also wanted to let you know that there will be a GRAPHITE conversion kit available by the end of AUGUST for the SBV2, along with a couple other goodies.. [:-] [:-][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=bananahead.gif]
#17
RE: MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
Academy car / buggy with a 19t Team1rc.com motor? thats where its at! Team1rc.com Check them out!! Tell them Team Academy sent ya!! You have to see these dyno sheets they have! Very nice.
Team MRC / Academy / Team1rc.com
B"
Team MRC / Academy / Team1rc.com
B"
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RE: MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
Nitstklr72: The retail price on the graphite conversion is going to be $186.00, expect to see it in hobby stores for less. This conversion will include
Silver Carbon Fiber Chassis
Silver Carbon Fiber Upper Deck
Silver Carbon Fiber Battery Strap
Aluminum Chassis brace (goes in place of the front aluminum tubes)
Aluminum Servo mounts
Sincerely,
DAVE GRABOSKI
MRC
Silver Carbon Fiber Chassis
Silver Carbon Fiber Upper Deck
Silver Carbon Fiber Battery Strap
Aluminum Chassis brace (goes in place of the front aluminum tubes)
Aluminum Servo mounts
Sincerely,
DAVE GRABOSKI
MRC
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RE: MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
Does academy plan to make some carbon fiber shock towers. These would be nice items to have.
Also, how does academy plan to to address the issue of the rear dogbone droop causing the bone to fall out and/or damage the outdrive. To view this problem, assemble a stock SB V2 and let the rear droop as far as it can, you will see the dogbone pin outside or just about outside of the cup. I used an oring in the axle to push the dogbone more and limited the droop some. without this however, if you try to limit the droop, it leaves very little droop compared to the competition.
This really needs to be addressed. Please see www.rc10b4.com , general section, and search for Academy SB V2 thread. The whole problem and some other issues are described there.
Also, how does academy plan to to address the issue of the rear dogbone droop causing the bone to fall out and/or damage the outdrive. To view this problem, assemble a stock SB V2 and let the rear droop as far as it can, you will see the dogbone pin outside or just about outside of the cup. I used an oring in the axle to push the dogbone more and limited the droop some. without this however, if you try to limit the droop, it leaves very little droop compared to the competition.
This really needs to be addressed. Please see www.rc10b4.com , general section, and search for Academy SB V2 thread. The whole problem and some other issues are described there.
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RE: MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
I have used o rings to keep the dogbone from falling out as well but that has caused severe accellerated wear on the tips fo the dogbone that have the plastic covers. The rear wheels can now rotate a quarter of a turn before the dogbone engadges the rear outer hub. This is definately a problem... And how about some replacement screw sets and shock rebuild kits also?
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RE: MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
Cainlord: MRC/Academy have addressed this issue. New universals should be available the same time as the conversion kit. The part# for these is 98VT001 with a retail price of $36.00
As far as the shock towers are concerned we feel that the stock plastic ones are more durable then carbon fiber, there are no plans on new towers as of yet.
We are trying to get screw sets, shock rebuilds, small hardware, diff rebuilds, etc.
As far as the shock towers are concerned we feel that the stock plastic ones are more durable then carbon fiber, there are no plans on new towers as of yet.
We are trying to get screw sets, shock rebuilds, small hardware, diff rebuilds, etc.
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RE: MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
Are there any plans to address the diff setting issue as well? I did notice that you on the V2 you still had the issue of not alot of diff action before the nut bottomed out. I ran the diff pretty tight due to this, and it appears that the B4 diff spring mod as done on the V1 may not work as well as the bone goes too far into the diff compared to the size of the nut. I believe this is also addressed in the post by re-inferno on RC tech.
#24
RE: MRC / Academy SB V2 Thread
I destroyed 4 plastic dogbone covers this weekend running Team1RC 9x1 cobalt(very very grunty motor).
The new universals will definitely be a necessary fix for this problem, hope it will address the droop issue too.
The new universals will definitely be a necessary fix for this problem, hope it will address the droop issue too.