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CX-161 CCD Camera Mouting...

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Old 02-16-2004, 08:26 AM
  #1  
stevennh
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Default CX-161 CCD Camera Mouting...

I purchased a 2.4GHz tx/rx (200mw) and a CX-161 camera this week. I plan on installing this system on my Aerobird. I currently have a small all-in-one camera/tx on the bird mounted in front of the wing on the nose. The CX-161 looks kind of exposed, I am looking for ideas on mounting this camera. Weight is a concern so I want to add as little extra stuff as possible. Would it make sense to heat shrink a slieve over the cameras PC board?

Steve
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Old 02-16-2004, 12:04 PM
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Default RE: CX-161 CCD Camera Mouting...

A simple and sturdy covering can be made by slathering Goop, atv, or silicon on the camera board base.

When I mount the camera, I try to make sure I'm not going to put undo stress on the lense-housing/pcb-board interface or the cable/connector interface.

For the Aerobird I would mount the camera on the underside of one wing with tape. I'd make sure the pcb-board is secured well and just let the lense housing dangle out in the air. The cable would be captured against the bottom of the wing with more tape. Then you can mount the tx where ever you want to maintain balance.

I think I want to try to RPV my T-hawk but I need to get a little more video from it so I know what "level flight" looks like from the camera's perspective
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Old 02-16-2004, 02:57 PM
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Default RE: CX-161 CCD Camera Mouting...

Bill, have you got a picture of just how much goop or whatever you have put on the cam board?
I have been making little balsa boxes just big enough to hold the camera wrapped in foam. It works but it is kind of ackward sometimes.
Still looking for the easiest way to put my system on different planes.
My sloper wont be a problem since I will put the cam in an EPP pod for combat collision protection.

ORIGINAL: yb2normal

A simple and sturdy covering can be made by slathering Goop, atv, or silicon on the camera board base.

When I mount the camera, I try to make sure I'm not going to put undo stress on the lense-housing/pcb-board interface or the cable/connector interface.

For the Aerobird I would mount the camera on the underside of one wing with tape. I'd make sure the pcb-board is secured well and just let the lense housing dangle out in the air. The cable would be captured against the bottom of the wing with more tape. Then you can mount the tx where ever you want to maintain balance.

I think I want to try to RPV my T-hawk but I need to get a little more video from it so I know what "level flight" looks like from the camera's perspective
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Old 02-18-2004, 07:12 AM
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Default RE: CX-161 CCD Camera Mouting...

Bill,

I could use a bit more detail as well. I received my camera and TX yesterday and hooked it all up last night. The picture looks great in my living room. I am a bit worried about protecting the cx-161, it looks like it needs some shock protection prior to mounting given that the heavy lense is mounted on the small circuit board. Since I am planning on installing the TX and Camera under the wing near the fusilage (balanced on opposite sides), I was thinking about a small sheet aluminum "L" bracket slung under the wing (tape or tie wraps). I could drill a hole in it and screw the camera in and then fasten the top part of the "L" to the wing. I guess vibration might be a problem with that setup. I plan on buying another larger plane for a more stable platform and would like to be able to move the camera/tx quickly between planes.

Steve
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Old 02-20-2004, 12:06 AM
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Default RE: CX-161 CCD Camera Mouting...

I'll pry one of the camera's off my plane to snap a pic.

Stay tuned...
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Old 02-20-2004, 02:09 AM
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Default RE: CX-161 CCD Camera Mouting...

This is the way I mounted mine. I used .085 ' Lexan and two servo rubber grommets with brass inserts to mount the camera. The Lexan is glued to an aluminum heatsink between the fins with Shoe-Goo, I bent the two front fins down slightly for a better fit. Next I used 1/16 " lite ply to build the bed for the transmitter, and the top cover. Using four grommets I glued the transmitter to the bed. Make sure you make an opening to change frequencies if you need to. I used small sheet metal screws to attach the transmitter bed to the heatsink, and the top to the heatsink. All wooden corners are braced with 1/8" square hardwood running the entire length of the mount.The back sides are open and there is an air gap on both top and bottom of the transmitter for ventilation I'm using Kokam 2 cell 340 Li-Po rubber banded on the bottom of the mount. A 5 volt regulator is mounted on the bottom of the heatsink. Also am using the 600MW blackwidow transmitter. I'm waiting for the weather to break so I can try this system out, Looks good on the bench. I just built a Kyosho Autokite to put it on. Preliminary tests show no radio interference. The lightweight heatsink can be purchased at most electronic supply dealers, Mine is made by ECG. By the way, Bill if you are reading this Thanks for the great system I purchased from you. I'm very pleased with it. Tony
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