Digital camera triggering
05-27-2004, 09:03 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Athens, GREECE
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Digital camera triggering
I am quite new to electric rc planes. I am learning to fly an Aerobird Challenger on my own and I am doing pretty well and I am builing a Slow Stick right now. I have an extra 4 channel Futaba AM radio system and I want to install a cheap digital camera on the SS. My main question is how you trigger the camera's shouter. I asume you use a free chanel from the radio system but I am not sure at all about the electronics and connections. Any help would be appreciated.
05-28-2004, 02:08 AM
#3
Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Escondido,
CA
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Digital camera triggering
I am not sure if you already have your "cheap camera", but the "Cam man" mod with an Aiptek camera works very well for a budget. I have that setup (cam man mod with an Aiptek Mini 1.3 on my T-hawk (very similar to your Aerobird).
The Aiptek modification page on Mr. Cam Mans page is at
[link]http://www.rc-cam.com/camman.htm[/link]
A video from my setup is at
[link]http://kahuna.sdsu.edu/~tucker/airplanes/Home_garage_takeoff.mpg[/link]
Pictures from my setup are at
[link]http://kahuna.sdsu.edu/~tucker/airplanes/aerial.html[/link]
I have already posted the pictures and the video in a previous post, but I included them here for convenience.
I use the landing gear switch to trigger the camera. You do need some soldering experience and a way to program a micro-controller.
For the money, you can't go wrong.
Matt
The Aiptek modification page on Mr. Cam Mans page is at
[link]http://www.rc-cam.com/camman.htm[/link]
A video from my setup is at
[link]http://kahuna.sdsu.edu/~tucker/airplanes/Home_garage_takeoff.mpg[/link]
Pictures from my setup are at
[link]http://kahuna.sdsu.edu/~tucker/airplanes/aerial.html[/link]
I have already posted the pictures and the video in a previous post, but I included them here for convenience.
I use the landing gear switch to trigger the camera. You do need some soldering experience and a way to program a micro-controller.
For the money, you can't go wrong.
Matt
05-28-2004, 03:49 AM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Athens, GREECE
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Digital camera triggering
Thanks a lot!
No, I do not have a cheap digital camera yet (I do have a 5Mpixel that I don't want to risk!). The Aiptek cameras are quite popular for aerial photos as I understand. I think I should go for one of them as well. The aerobird has a channel for activating the aerial drop module (dropping 'bombs' or parachutes) maybe I could use that as well for shouter activation..
Yiannis
No, I do not have a cheap digital camera yet (I do have a 5Mpixel that I don't want to risk!). The Aiptek cameras are quite popular for aerial photos as I understand. I think I should go for one of them as well. The aerobird has a channel for activating the aerial drop module (dropping 'bombs' or parachutes) maybe I could use that as well for shouter activation..
Yiannis
05-28-2004, 04:38 PM
#6
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Canyon Country, CA
Posts: 1,774
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Digital camera triggering
Well, took the "plunge" and ordered a PIC programmer. I was originally going to go the easy route and get one of those "backpack" switches for my Aiptek but they seem to no longer be available. That means I will have to do it myself. Should be interesting. I have NO experience programming chips.
ORIGINAL: mtucker
I am not sure if you already have your "cheap camera", but the "Cam man" mod with an Aiptek camera works very well for a budget. I have that setup (cam man mod with an Aiptek Mini 1.3 on my T-hawk (very similar to your Aerobird).
The Aiptek modification page on Mr. Cam Mans page is at
[link]http://www.rc-cam.com/camman.htm[/link]
A video from my setup is at
[link]http://kahuna.sdsu.edu/~tucker/airplanes/Home_garage_takeoff.mpg[/link]
Pictures from my setup are at
[link]http://kahuna.sdsu.edu/~tucker/airplanes/aerial.html[/link]
I have already posted the pictures and the video in a previous post, but I included them here for convenience.
I use the landing gear switch to trigger the camera. You do need some soldering experience and a way to program a micro-controller.
For the money, you can't go wrong.
Matt
I am not sure if you already have your "cheap camera", but the "Cam man" mod with an Aiptek camera works very well for a budget. I have that setup (cam man mod with an Aiptek Mini 1.3 on my T-hawk (very similar to your Aerobird).
The Aiptek modification page on Mr. Cam Mans page is at
[link]http://www.rc-cam.com/camman.htm[/link]
A video from my setup is at
[link]http://kahuna.sdsu.edu/~tucker/airplanes/Home_garage_takeoff.mpg[/link]
Pictures from my setup are at
[link]http://kahuna.sdsu.edu/~tucker/airplanes/aerial.html[/link]
I have already posted the pictures and the video in a previous post, but I included them here for convenience.
I use the landing gear switch to trigger the camera. You do need some soldering experience and a way to program a micro-controller.
For the money, you can't go wrong.
Matt
05-29-2004, 12:09 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Broomfield,
CO,
Posts: 344
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Digital camera triggering
ORIGINAL: Fubar-One
Well, took the "plunge" and ordered a PIC programmer. I was originally going to go the easy route and get one of those "backpack" switches for my Aiptek but they seem to no longer be available. That means I will have to do it myself. Should be interesting. I have NO experience programming chips.
Well, took the "plunge" and ordered a PIC programmer. I was originally going to go the easy route and get one of those "backpack" switches for my Aiptek but they seem to no longer be available. That means I will have to do it myself. Should be interesting. I have NO experience programming chips.
Bill
05-30-2004, 11:16 AM
#10
Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Escondido,
CA
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Digital camera triggering
The flash series of the PICs (16F87X and others) are nice since you can reprogram them if you make an mistake. The 12C508 or 12C509 used in the RC cam man series unfortunately are one time programmable (OTP). At least they are cheap. I have wasted a few of them. For anybody that might use PICs for more than just a couple projects, I recommend the Warp 13A programmer. Its $100 and is supported by good software and updates.
If doing the cam man project, I recommend turning off the code protect feature. Mr. RC camman requests you turn it on, but your programmer will not be able to verify the chip once it is done programming. It sure is nice to see the PIC verified so you know its worth soldering in to your camera. RC cam mans work is very appreciated and to honor his request of code protection one could do the first chip with the code protect feature turned off to get the warm happy feeling of seeing the chip verified. Then once you know all is well, you could then do the next chip with the code protect on. The code protect does not change the way the program operates.... just makes it so the chip can't be read (to be copied or to steal code).
Matt
If doing the cam man project, I recommend turning off the code protect feature. Mr. RC camman requests you turn it on, but your programmer will not be able to verify the chip once it is done programming. It sure is nice to see the PIC verified so you know its worth soldering in to your camera. RC cam mans work is very appreciated and to honor his request of code protection one could do the first chip with the code protect feature turned off to get the warm happy feeling of seeing the chip verified. Then once you know all is well, you could then do the next chip with the code protect on. The code protect does not change the way the program operates.... just makes it so the chip can't be read (to be copied or to steal code).
Matt
05-30-2004, 01:44 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Broomfield,
CO,
Posts: 344
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Digital camera triggering
Matt, have you tried programming a RCCAM project with code protect turned off? I wouldn't put it past a bright developer to implement something that prevented the chip from working if it discovers you didn't set the fuses correctly.
Bill
Bill
05-30-2004, 05:48 PM
#12
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Canyon Country, CA
Posts: 1,774
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Digital camera triggering
That was one of the things that took me the longest time deciding when ordering. Which programmer to get? I settled on the PIC16Pro (item CK1702 from Carl's Electronics) because I seriously doubt I will be programming much more than the chip for the CamMan Aiptek project. Could be more in the future but most likely not. Who knows? I am sure that the $100 programmers would be a waste of money for somebody like me. It's all about the one camera right now.
ORIGINAL: mtucker
The flash series of the PICs (16F87X and others) are nice since you can reprogram them if you make an mistake. The 12C508 or 12C509 used in the RC cam man series unfortunately are one time programmable (OTP). At least they are cheap. I have wasted a few of them. For anybody that might use PICs for more than just a couple projects, I recommend the Warp 13A programmer. Its $100 and is supported by good software and updates.
If doing the cam man project, I recommend turning off the code protect feature. Mr. RC camman requests you turn it on, but your programmer will not be able to verify the chip once it is done programming. It sure is nice to see the PIC verified so you know its worth soldering in to your camera. RC cam mans work is very appreciated and to honor his request of code protection one could do the first chip with the code protect feature turned off to get the warm happy feeling of seeing the chip verified. Then once you know all is well, you could then do the next chip with the code protect on. The code protect does not change the way the program operates.... just makes it so the chip can't be read (to be copied or to steal code).
Matt
The flash series of the PICs (16F87X and others) are nice since you can reprogram them if you make an mistake. The 12C508 or 12C509 used in the RC cam man series unfortunately are one time programmable (OTP). At least they are cheap. I have wasted a few of them. For anybody that might use PICs for more than just a couple projects, I recommend the Warp 13A programmer. Its $100 and is supported by good software and updates.
If doing the cam man project, I recommend turning off the code protect feature. Mr. RC camman requests you turn it on, but your programmer will not be able to verify the chip once it is done programming. It sure is nice to see the PIC verified so you know its worth soldering in to your camera. RC cam mans work is very appreciated and to honor his request of code protection one could do the first chip with the code protect feature turned off to get the warm happy feeling of seeing the chip verified. Then once you know all is well, you could then do the next chip with the code protect on. The code protect does not change the way the program operates.... just makes it so the chip can't be read (to be copied or to steal code).
Matt
05-30-2004, 10:25 PM
#13
Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Escondido,
CA
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Digital camera triggering
YB2Normal,
Yes, I turned the code protect feature off for the PIC that is in my camera. The code protect feature will not cause the code to run any different. You just can't read the code. I wanted to respect RC cam mans request to leave the code protect on, but I didn't want to solder in the chip and have it not work. With the code protect off, the PIC can be read. If the programmer reads the PIC and verifies the HEX code in the PIC matches the HEX code you wanted to put inside, it will give you a "verified" status. It is very nice to know your PIC is good before you solder it in.
I have used some of the PICs with flash memory and they will verify the code was correctly programmed even if the "code protect" is on.
Matt
Yes, I turned the code protect feature off for the PIC that is in my camera. The code protect feature will not cause the code to run any different. You just can't read the code. I wanted to respect RC cam mans request to leave the code protect on, but I didn't want to solder in the chip and have it not work. With the code protect off, the PIC can be read. If the programmer reads the PIC and verifies the HEX code in the PIC matches the HEX code you wanted to put inside, it will give you a "verified" status. It is very nice to know your PIC is good before you solder it in.
I have used some of the PICs with flash memory and they will verify the code was correctly programmed even if the "code protect" is on.
Matt
