Sikorsky Ilya Muromets CG
#101
Guten Morgen Sal, hope your warbird event went well (I was attending this event that weekend) and IM is nearing completion. After not thinking about it for a while but about other models, I came back to something I said in this thread: If it's true that near stall IM's wings develop much drag in some spots (asymmetrically) and that makes for yawing which in turn leads to stalling one wingtip - and the simulator seems to show this sequence - then a yaw gyro should delay stall and help recovery. Flight tests could prove this theory (right or wrong) and show if a rate gyro would suffice or if a heading-hold is needed. Dick, what do you think?
Yes, wing stall is very likely to cause yaw as the first symptom. Especially so with that long wing span. As far as choosing between rate versus heading hold, I would stick with rate alone. The problem with using heading hold in such an application is that, as the stall develops, the rudder will work harder and harder to maintain heading. At some point, the yawning tendency will become so great that the rudder & gyro become overwhelmed. Then the yaw divergence will be very rapid and very severe. And perhaps with little or no warning.
By contrast, with rate damping alone the initial yawning tendency will occur, but hopefully be sluggish and low amplitude, giving plenty of time to back off the aft stick and minimize the stall.
Dick
Last edited by otrcman; 07-25-2015 at 09:46 AM.
#102
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Hello Burkhard..
Nice to hear from you..I had a great time in Delaware but damaged my Fokker D-VII.. I repaired it immediately and test flew it yesterday. I started to work on the Ilya Muromets again.
I am reinforcing the area on the lower wings where the motor mounts are located. I am also creating a pocket just under the mounts to house the LiPo battery packs. Once I have all four
mount areas completed, I will continue covering the rest of the wing panels. When the panels are all covered, I will paint them individually before joining them permanently.
I still have to work out the strut fittings. There are many on the wings and in respect to expediency, I will design them using the (Kiss) principle. KEEP IT SIMPLE, STUPID.
I checked out the link you listed, Wow, lots of pattern planes. These use to be very popular here in the US. I don't see much anymore.
In fact, the manufacturers of glow engines now make their engines gasoline powered as the shift in the US to elecric and gas power has overtaken the glow fuel engine market.
Cheers, Sal
.
Nice to hear from you..I had a great time in Delaware but damaged my Fokker D-VII.. I repaired it immediately and test flew it yesterday. I started to work on the Ilya Muromets again.
I am reinforcing the area on the lower wings where the motor mounts are located. I am also creating a pocket just under the mounts to house the LiPo battery packs. Once I have all four
mount areas completed, I will continue covering the rest of the wing panels. When the panels are all covered, I will paint them individually before joining them permanently.
I still have to work out the strut fittings. There are many on the wings and in respect to expediency, I will design them using the (Kiss) principle. KEEP IT SIMPLE, STUPID.
I checked out the link you listed, Wow, lots of pattern planes. These use to be very popular here in the US. I don't see much anymore.
In fact, the manufacturers of glow engines now make their engines gasoline powered as the shift in the US to elecric and gas power has overtaken the glow fuel engine market.
Cheers, Sal
.
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Hello Burkhard, Dick
I know it has been a while. I slowed down a bunch during the summer to enjoy some cruising with my old Lincoln and enjoying the summer days. Better than hiding in the basement working on the model. Now, the summer has passed and I have been back to work on this crazy model.
I have 9 of the 10 wing panels completed. 8 are painted, even the roundels. I am working on the two panels that house the motors and landing gear. I have installed the electric motors in the V8s and gave the front end a little color to match the engines. I have installed the motor mounts and I am working on the radiator mounts.
I should have the motors, mounts, radiators all done in the next couple of weeks. Then onto the landing gear.
I hope all is well with the both of you.
Cheers, Sal
I know it has been a while. I slowed down a bunch during the summer to enjoy some cruising with my old Lincoln and enjoying the summer days. Better than hiding in the basement working on the model. Now, the summer has passed and I have been back to work on this crazy model.
I have 9 of the 10 wing panels completed. 8 are painted, even the roundels. I am working on the two panels that house the motors and landing gear. I have installed the electric motors in the V8s and gave the front end a little color to match the engines. I have installed the motor mounts and I am working on the radiator mounts.
I should have the motors, mounts, radiators all done in the next couple of weeks. Then onto the landing gear.
I hope all is well with the both of you.
Cheers, Sal
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Hello Dick, Burkhard
I repainted the radiators copper because I believe that they were in fact copper and not sheet metal.
Next step is to metalize the engine mounts and add some rivet detail.
Cheers, Sal
I repainted the radiators copper because I believe that they were in fact copper and not sheet metal.
Next step is to metalize the engine mounts and add some rivet detail.
Cheers, Sal
#105
Good to hear from you again, Sal.
The powerplants are magnificent. Regarding the copper radiators, my experience has been that most radiators of that period were brass. I have no idea whether the Sikorski radiators were brass or copper. But once brass has tarnished a bit, it looks very much like copper. And I'd seriously doubt that the Russians had people assigned to polish the radiators regularly. So your depiction is accurate regardless of what the original material was.
Dick
The powerplants are magnificent. Regarding the copper radiators, my experience has been that most radiators of that period were brass. I have no idea whether the Sikorski radiators were brass or copper. But once brass has tarnished a bit, it looks very much like copper. And I'd seriously doubt that the Russians had people assigned to polish the radiators regularly. So your depiction is accurate regardless of what the original material was.
Dick
Last edited by otrcman; 10-18-2015 at 10:51 AM. Reason: spelling correction
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Yep, copper and brass both quickly tarnish to a medium brown. If left in worse conditions you might even find either one developing some bluish green verdigris in the nooks and crannies.
Sal, the model is looking fantastic. I'm looking forward to reading about and seeing a video of the first few flights.
Sal, the model is looking fantastic. I'm looking forward to reading about and seeing a video of the first few flights.
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In going back over the past postings I ran into the simulator video and subsequent replies.
First off is that I noticed that the simulator was flying quite well with just aileron inputs. And in fact it was fairly snappy in response to even small inputs. In real life I'm thinking that this model will be a lot more lazy in responding to aileron inputs than the sim suggests. I'm also thinking that with the cambered wing section and slower flying that adverse yaw will be a major factor in any aileron inputs and that coordinated rudder will be pretty much mandatory to achieve a decent turn entry and recovery.
I know it's not anywhere in the same scale of things but a buddy that built a stick and tissue RC electric SPAD 13 found that the scale airfoil was exceptionally bad for adverse yaw. He fought this by using extreme differential but it still had a strong amount of adverse yaw when flying at any sort of slower and more scale like speed. He finally mixed in some rudder and that fixed it. So be prepared to use some rudder with your aileron on this one as well.
I would also be patient with the control input response. This is a model which is going to be best treated to small inputs that allow it to sloooowly roll into and out of the turns. I suspect that any attempts to use more deflection will lead to badly crabbed turn entries and recoveries. Using small inputs and allowing it some time to slowly roll into and out of turns will also do a lot towards avoiding control surface induced stalls where the inputs alter the camber at the wing tips so much that the wing section in that spot stalls out.
An interesting point to ponder which also suggests that this would be a wise way to fly is that the upward traveling aileron is going to push down on that side. But by doing so it suddenly increases the angle of attack seen by the lower wing and the inboard side of the upper wing on that side with the upward deflected aileron. So while the section with the aileron will be resisting a stall it may push the other areas into stalling along with a sudden increase in drag on that side. And it's this sudden increase in drag which can bite us in a turn and see the tip on that side suddenly drop. So for a model of this sort I'd say that small control inputs and patience while it responds is the name of the game. At least until you can try it out a good 3.5 mistakes high and get a feel for the roll response.
Another aspect I'd warn of is assuming that a yaw damper will prevent tip stalling. The yaw damper might do well at resisting or auto correcting but if I'm right about the way the wing will produce adverse yaw and possibly push the other parts into stalling it won't help avoid a stall which is induced by another control input. Namely the aileron inputs. Especially with such a large aileron.
First off is that I noticed that the simulator was flying quite well with just aileron inputs. And in fact it was fairly snappy in response to even small inputs. In real life I'm thinking that this model will be a lot more lazy in responding to aileron inputs than the sim suggests. I'm also thinking that with the cambered wing section and slower flying that adverse yaw will be a major factor in any aileron inputs and that coordinated rudder will be pretty much mandatory to achieve a decent turn entry and recovery.
I know it's not anywhere in the same scale of things but a buddy that built a stick and tissue RC electric SPAD 13 found that the scale airfoil was exceptionally bad for adverse yaw. He fought this by using extreme differential but it still had a strong amount of adverse yaw when flying at any sort of slower and more scale like speed. He finally mixed in some rudder and that fixed it. So be prepared to use some rudder with your aileron on this one as well.
I would also be patient with the control input response. This is a model which is going to be best treated to small inputs that allow it to sloooowly roll into and out of the turns. I suspect that any attempts to use more deflection will lead to badly crabbed turn entries and recoveries. Using small inputs and allowing it some time to slowly roll into and out of turns will also do a lot towards avoiding control surface induced stalls where the inputs alter the camber at the wing tips so much that the wing section in that spot stalls out.
An interesting point to ponder which also suggests that this would be a wise way to fly is that the upward traveling aileron is going to push down on that side. But by doing so it suddenly increases the angle of attack seen by the lower wing and the inboard side of the upper wing on that side with the upward deflected aileron. So while the section with the aileron will be resisting a stall it may push the other areas into stalling along with a sudden increase in drag on that side. And it's this sudden increase in drag which can bite us in a turn and see the tip on that side suddenly drop. So for a model of this sort I'd say that small control inputs and patience while it responds is the name of the game. At least until you can try it out a good 3.5 mistakes high and get a feel for the roll response.
Another aspect I'd warn of is assuming that a yaw damper will prevent tip stalling. The yaw damper might do well at resisting or auto correcting but if I'm right about the way the wing will produce adverse yaw and possibly push the other parts into stalling it won't help avoid a stall which is induced by another control input. Namely the aileron inputs. Especially with such a large aileron.
#109
Hi Sal, one could believe that is the real thing! What I'm looking forward to most is now where the C/G will come out. You might have to hang the huge model on three lines from a fulcrum and use a plumb line to point to the C/G, I imagine. Not quite as interesting, but still, you could determine the vertical C/G location. But I have no idea how to find a place where the model can hang on its tail and a plumb line runs along one fuselage side somewhere crossing the vertical marking of the longitudinal C/G position. I'm just curious! ;-)
BMatthews, I don't quite get your hints so I want to mention a few things in the hope to get clarification.
In the simulator flights, a 50% combi mixer (aileron to rudder) has been used. You can see the parallel stick deflections.
Experience showed that the simulator rather underestimates aileron effect but renders adverse yaw quite well. I was surprised to find less adverse yaw than expected. I used 30% differential but that dosn't do much. Yet it possibly reduced adverse yaw to the less-than-expected level, but there is still plenty.
There was no adverse-yaw problem though, rudder is just that effective. Maximum rudder throw is 30° but in reality this might be too much for a full-flying rudder, even though the lateral auxiliary rudders (making for a funnel) might well keep the airflow attached. And I used half throw, anyway (50% mixing rate).
A strongly cambered (6%) airfoil must produce much adverse yaw, but the outer upper wing panels with the ailerons effectively have a decently reflexed airfoil at a lower angle of attack. This should reduce adverse yaw but it's not even rendered in the simulator (only approximated by washout, that is 5° linear twist over half-span).
Ailerons are not that effective (at least in the simulator), that's why throw was even 20°. It was fully utilized only for steep turns to keep the model in viewing distance, a special problem in the simulator. The model seemed a bit lazy in the roll axis, as expected, but the big ailerons helped. Maybe that's why they are that big.
As to stalling the inner wing panels on the downgoing wings when rolling: It's even possible that the simulator renders this stall. I have no idea how it renders stall at all, but experience showed that it's quite good at it (except high-alpha flying). So the less-than-expected adverse yaw could mean the presumed stall on the downgoing wings made for some proverse yaw, not cancelling out the whole aileron yaw, though.
The model is flown in a quite narrow AoA band and near maximum lift coefficient. That doesn't necessarily mean near true stall, though. Surprisingly, the airfoil characteristics (polar) show a big drag increase over a few degrees of AoA without increase in lift but without losing lift, either. It ends in the true stall at a certain AoA with a sudden loss of lift. So in a rolling motion, the downgoing wing will not resist rolling too much because lift doesn't increase and it helps yawing by increasing drag. Nice idea! :-)
And as to the yaw damper: It's not intended to prevent either tip stalling or control-induced stalls at all. The idea was merely to delay an ordinary stall by fighting its onset, which would be asymmetrically on either side of the airplane. That would make for yaw and sliding in the direction of the partially stalled side, what in turn leads to full stall of the retreating wing and is the classic entry into spin.
BMatthews, I don't quite get your hints so I want to mention a few things in the hope to get clarification.
In the simulator flights, a 50% combi mixer (aileron to rudder) has been used. You can see the parallel stick deflections.
Experience showed that the simulator rather underestimates aileron effect but renders adverse yaw quite well. I was surprised to find less adverse yaw than expected. I used 30% differential but that dosn't do much. Yet it possibly reduced adverse yaw to the less-than-expected level, but there is still plenty.
There was no adverse-yaw problem though, rudder is just that effective. Maximum rudder throw is 30° but in reality this might be too much for a full-flying rudder, even though the lateral auxiliary rudders (making for a funnel) might well keep the airflow attached. And I used half throw, anyway (50% mixing rate).
A strongly cambered (6%) airfoil must produce much adverse yaw, but the outer upper wing panels with the ailerons effectively have a decently reflexed airfoil at a lower angle of attack. This should reduce adverse yaw but it's not even rendered in the simulator (only approximated by washout, that is 5° linear twist over half-span).
Ailerons are not that effective (at least in the simulator), that's why throw was even 20°. It was fully utilized only for steep turns to keep the model in viewing distance, a special problem in the simulator. The model seemed a bit lazy in the roll axis, as expected, but the big ailerons helped. Maybe that's why they are that big.
As to stalling the inner wing panels on the downgoing wings when rolling: It's even possible that the simulator renders this stall. I have no idea how it renders stall at all, but experience showed that it's quite good at it (except high-alpha flying). So the less-than-expected adverse yaw could mean the presumed stall on the downgoing wings made for some proverse yaw, not cancelling out the whole aileron yaw, though.
The model is flown in a quite narrow AoA band and near maximum lift coefficient. That doesn't necessarily mean near true stall, though. Surprisingly, the airfoil characteristics (polar) show a big drag increase over a few degrees of AoA without increase in lift but without losing lift, either. It ends in the true stall at a certain AoA with a sudden loss of lift. So in a rolling motion, the downgoing wing will not resist rolling too much because lift doesn't increase and it helps yawing by increasing drag. Nice idea! :-)
And as to the yaw damper: It's not intended to prevent either tip stalling or control-induced stalls at all. The idea was merely to delay an ordinary stall by fighting its onset, which would be asymmetrically on either side of the airplane. That would make for yaw and sliding in the direction of the partially stalled side, what in turn leads to full stall of the retreating wing and is the classic entry into spin.
#110
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Burkhard
mein Freund, nice to have you back. Bmathews, good to hear from you again. We're all friends here, can I use your first name?
I certainly plan coordinated rudder and shallow turns. With all that drage from wires, struts, etc. I am concerned about the 5000mah packs not being enough.
Might take 10 minutes to go once around the pattern!!!
I too am concerned about the CG, even though the model may be stable with CG at 60 percent to 100 percent of the chord. So, I am adding weight close to the leading edge by installing music wire in the leading edge and front spar tubes. In addition, I have added lead weight to the leading edge of the wing by the engine mounts. I can also add sheet lead to the very front of the fuselage interior as there will be a double wall.
The motors and V8s are also very close to the leading edge and they will help a bunch. I am now working on the landing gear before I go back to the other two engine mounts.
Cheers, Sal
f
mein Freund, nice to have you back. Bmathews, good to hear from you again. We're all friends here, can I use your first name?
I certainly plan coordinated rudder and shallow turns. With all that drage from wires, struts, etc. I am concerned about the 5000mah packs not being enough.
Might take 10 minutes to go once around the pattern!!!
I too am concerned about the CG, even though the model may be stable with CG at 60 percent to 100 percent of the chord. So, I am adding weight close to the leading edge by installing music wire in the leading edge and front spar tubes. In addition, I have added lead weight to the leading edge of the wing by the engine mounts. I can also add sheet lead to the very front of the fuselage interior as there will be a double wall.
The motors and V8s are also very close to the leading edge and they will help a bunch. I am now working on the landing gear before I go back to the other two engine mounts.
Cheers, Sal
f
#111
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Sal, no problem at all with first names. Besides, if you called me "Mr Matthews" I'd be looking around for my Dad!
Have you tried a small scale glider to get a feel for the CG location yet? I mean just a little thing of around 16 to 18 inch span made from sheet balsa. It doesn't even need curved airfoil shaped wings. Just simple flat 1/16 sheet would be fine. But I'd make it so the stabilizer angle is adjustable. You'd try moving the CG back a little at a time and re-adjust the stab trim to restore the glide. When it gets to where it does not want to naturally nose up from a nose down launch then you're too far back.
And when you're done with it a bit of felt pen decoration and it'll look good hanging from a thread over your bench !
UStik, thanks for that added info. Sounds like you got most of my concerns covered. I admit that I didn't follow the little Tx bit in the corner 100% of the time but for the one turn I did not see any rudder stick movement when the aileron stick moved. Maybe the mix was internal and didn't make it onto the video? Or maybe it wasn't on for that one turn? I dunno. I just didn't see the rudder stick move for that one.
Have you tried a small scale glider to get a feel for the CG location yet? I mean just a little thing of around 16 to 18 inch span made from sheet balsa. It doesn't even need curved airfoil shaped wings. Just simple flat 1/16 sheet would be fine. But I'd make it so the stabilizer angle is adjustable. You'd try moving the CG back a little at a time and re-adjust the stab trim to restore the glide. When it gets to where it does not want to naturally nose up from a nose down launch then you're too far back.
And when you're done with it a bit of felt pen decoration and it'll look good hanging from a thread over your bench !
UStik, thanks for that added info. Sounds like you got most of my concerns covered. I admit that I didn't follow the little Tx bit in the corner 100% of the time but for the one turn I did not see any rudder stick movement when the aileron stick moved. Maybe the mix was internal and didn't make it onto the video? Or maybe it wasn't on for that one turn? I dunno. I just didn't see the rudder stick move for that one.
Last edited by BMatthews; 11-02-2015 at 09:26 AM.
#112
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Hi All
Been working on the landing gear for the past few weeks. It required making a good number of parts from music wire, brass sheet and brass tubing. Lots of silver soldering with MAP gas. Here are some photos of the parts. I will have one assembled shortly.
The tires are a whole nuther story. They are 4 inches in diameter and 1 inch wide. The full size used two spoked rims together, wrapped in leather. (NO rubber tire or tube). So I found a suitable wheel that was made from hard rubber and took it to an upholsterer to have him wrap and sew on leather. The results were less than desirable. Since I could not find a wheel that I could use, I decided to make them myself.
I purchased some 5/4 clear pine and using my band saw cut out 4 discs. I sanded them down to 1 inch wide using my 4 inch belt sander and drilled out the center to accept a brass tube. The tube is 1/4 inch ID. I sanded the wood wheels to shape and eventually painted them with Rustoleum brown leather spray paint and satin clearcoat. I used a permanent marker and a white ink pen to add the white thread.
The model landing gear will operated in the same fashion as the full size. It will be wrapped with 3/32 bungee.
Cheers, Sal
Been working on the landing gear for the past few weeks. It required making a good number of parts from music wire, brass sheet and brass tubing. Lots of silver soldering with MAP gas. Here are some photos of the parts. I will have one assembled shortly.
The tires are a whole nuther story. They are 4 inches in diameter and 1 inch wide. The full size used two spoked rims together, wrapped in leather. (NO rubber tire or tube). So I found a suitable wheel that was made from hard rubber and took it to an upholsterer to have him wrap and sew on leather. The results were less than desirable. Since I could not find a wheel that I could use, I decided to make them myself.
I purchased some 5/4 clear pine and using my band saw cut out 4 discs. I sanded them down to 1 inch wide using my 4 inch belt sander and drilled out the center to accept a brass tube. The tube is 1/4 inch ID. I sanded the wood wheels to shape and eventually painted them with Rustoleum brown leather spray paint and satin clearcoat. I used a permanent marker and a white ink pen to add the white thread.
The model landing gear will operated in the same fashion as the full size. It will be wrapped with 3/32 bungee.
Cheers, Sal
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Hi All
Last night I was able to assemble one of the landing gear together to see how all the parts fit. Here are some photos and close ups from different angles. I will now finish the other gear and move back onto the other engine wing panel.
Cheers, Sal
Last night I was able to assemble one of the landing gear together to see how all the parts fit. Here are some photos and close ups from different angles. I will now finish the other gear and move back onto the other engine wing panel.
Cheers, Sal
#114
Stunning, Sal, just stunning.
This plane represents a ton of work and inspired work at that. All the more reason to "insure it" by spending a little time experimenting with a simple toss glider as BMatthews suggested.
Dick
This plane represents a ton of work and inspired work at that. All the more reason to "insure it" by spending a little time experimenting with a simple toss glider as BMatthews suggested.
Dick
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Hi Dick
I hope all is well in Arroyo Grande. The East Coast had been enjoying a rather warm fall but now the temps have been falling and building season is in full swing. I know the Holidays will slow me down a bit but in regards to the build, if I step back and look at the whole project I get depressed over how much work needs to be done. However, if I just focus on a part or piece that needs to be made then I feel better about the process. I still have some major design work to accomplish such as the strut fittings, struts, wing center section, large fuel tanks and of course the interior detail. I had some 3D printed bombs made, they will work nicely for interior detail.
I agree with the comments about making a small toss glider. Anything I can do to prepare for a successful flight of the model is worth
doing. At the very least I would be able to play around with CG.
I am impressed and encouraged by Burkhard's 3D Ilya Muromets video. It represents a lot of computer time and thought he has given to this project. I am thankful for all the comments and discussions on this build. Keep em coming.
Sal
I hope all is well in Arroyo Grande. The East Coast had been enjoying a rather warm fall but now the temps have been falling and building season is in full swing. I know the Holidays will slow me down a bit but in regards to the build, if I step back and look at the whole project I get depressed over how much work needs to be done. However, if I just focus on a part or piece that needs to be made then I feel better about the process. I still have some major design work to accomplish such as the strut fittings, struts, wing center section, large fuel tanks and of course the interior detail. I had some 3D printed bombs made, they will work nicely for interior detail.
I agree with the comments about making a small toss glider. Anything I can do to prepare for a successful flight of the model is worth
doing. At the very least I would be able to play around with CG.
I am impressed and encouraged by Burkhard's 3D Ilya Muromets video. It represents a lot of computer time and thought he has given to this project. I am thankful for all the comments and discussions on this build. Keep em coming.
Sal
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On a big project of this sort it'll weigh you down something terrible if you don't focus on the small steps. Break it down into a series of small and well done sub projects and just carry on with the joy of accomplishment in getting each STEP done. And when the day arrives that there's no more sub projects then you can break out the bottle of bubbly.
A thought on the test glider. If you take a touch of extra time to make up a neater model then it'll look a whole lot better hanging over your work area as a mobile later on.... I'm not saying to do all the rigging and paint it up. But if you take the time to make a profile fuselage and motor nacelles and set the toothpicks in correctly for the wing struts you'll end up with a much nicer model in the end.
Even a small needle and some thread can be used to form the rigging without too much of a time commitment. If you do this on sheet wood wings don't come up and back in on the same grain line. Instead go cross grain by 1/16" or so at each surfacing and diving back in point and that way the grain fibers will prevent pulling through the wood.
A thought on the test glider. If you take a touch of extra time to make up a neater model then it'll look a whole lot better hanging over your work area as a mobile later on.... I'm not saying to do all the rigging and paint it up. But if you take the time to make a profile fuselage and motor nacelles and set the toothpicks in correctly for the wing struts you'll end up with a much nicer model in the end.
Even a small needle and some thread can be used to form the rigging without too much of a time commitment. If you do this on sheet wood wings don't come up and back in on the same grain line. Instead go cross grain by 1/16" or so at each surfacing and diving back in point and that way the grain fibers will prevent pulling through the wood.
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B Matthews
Alright, your hired...one test Ilya Muromets please. Don't skip the Russian Air Service insignia..... AND,, what does "B" in BMatthews stand for..
Sal
Alright, your hired...one test Ilya Muromets please. Don't skip the Russian Air Service insignia..... AND,, what does "B" in BMatthews stand for..
Sal
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Hi All
Started working on the design of the strut fittings. Since I have no clear photo of the one used on the full size aircraft. I have decided
to make one based on a combination of the "Pierce" and "Curtiss" fittings. I bought a sheet of 22g metal and hand cut 3/8 inch strips, then cut the strips into 1 1/2 inch sections. The bending is done on a vice and 8 holes drilled for support wires, strut mounting and strut fitting mount. I also made another set of wheels because the first set were not the correct shape.
Here's a couple photos of the fittings I made. 2 down, 62 to go.
Cheers and Happy Holidays, Sal
Started working on the design of the strut fittings. Since I have no clear photo of the one used on the full size aircraft. I have decided
to make one based on a combination of the "Pierce" and "Curtiss" fittings. I bought a sheet of 22g metal and hand cut 3/8 inch strips, then cut the strips into 1 1/2 inch sections. The bending is done on a vice and 8 holes drilled for support wires, strut mounting and strut fitting mount. I also made another set of wheels because the first set were not the correct shape.
Here's a couple photos of the fittings I made. 2 down, 62 to go.
Cheers and Happy Holidays, Sal
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Hello All
Well, the Holidays slowed me down a bit, but I am back to work. I made all 64 strut fittings and another 130 strut attachment brackets. My friend made me a steel die and I was able to bend to shape the brackets in a couple of hours.
I also made the two large fuel tanks and 24 of the 28 struts I need. The 24 struts are all similar in length, I need to make the outer diagonal struts which support the outer upper wing panels. Here are some photos of progress made to date.
Well, the Holidays slowed me down a bit, but I am back to work. I made all 64 strut fittings and another 130 strut attachment brackets. My friend made me a steel die and I was able to bend to shape the brackets in a couple of hours.
I also made the two large fuel tanks and 24 of the 28 struts I need. The 24 struts are all similar in length, I need to make the outer diagonal struts which support the outer upper wing panels. Here are some photos of progress made to date.
#120
Sal, you are some kinda model making machine !
All this detail work makes me think more than ever that you would be well served by putting together a simple little toss glider to verify that the CG is about right. It would be a heart breaker to ding the big one because of something as simple as having the CG in the wrong place.
Dick
All this detail work makes me think more than ever that you would be well served by putting together a simple little toss glider to verify that the CG is about right. It would be a heart breaker to ding the big one because of something as simple as having the CG in the wrong place.
Dick
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Hi Dick
Happy New Year, and thanks for the continued interest. I will probably slap something small together and play with the CG.
I just want to get this thing off the bench.. make that off many benches as I have others that need maint and repair before the flying
season arrives. I dont think that I can fully assemble it in the basement or any other room in my house. I continue to plod on.
Cheers, Sal
Happy New Year, and thanks for the continued interest. I will probably slap something small together and play with the CG.
I just want to get this thing off the bench.. make that off many benches as I have others that need maint and repair before the flying
season arrives. I dont think that I can fully assemble it in the basement or any other room in my house. I continue to plod on.
Cheers, Sal
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Hi Dick
Last night I installed the aileron horns and the pulley bearings on the upper outer wing panels. I test fit one of the outer panels but need to make the long diagonal struts that support it. Then onto the other side.
Cheers, Sal
Last night I installed the aileron horns and the pulley bearings on the upper outer wing panels. I test fit one of the outer panels but need to make the long diagonal struts that support it. Then onto the other side.
Cheers, Sal
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Hi Dick, Burkhard and B Matthews
I am now adding the flying and landing wires to the outer panels before I join them to the fuselage and upper center section.
Here are a couple of youtube videos of the 3D model in flight. While the model may not fly like the 3D rendition, it certainly
looks quite similar.
Cheers, Sal
https://youtu.be/gDz5Ixh7IPQ
https://youtu.be/L-qKjWrkHKI
I am now adding the flying and landing wires to the outer panels before I join them to the fuselage and upper center section.
Here are a couple of youtube videos of the 3D model in flight. While the model may not fly like the 3D rendition, it certainly
looks quite similar.
Cheers, Sal
https://youtu.be/gDz5Ixh7IPQ
https://youtu.be/L-qKjWrkHKI
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Hi All
With the wing panels pretty much completed, it's now time to install the upper center section. This is a critical
assembly so I will take my time and do it right......I hope.!
I could barely put the model together in my basement.
Cheers, Sal
With the wing panels pretty much completed, it's now time to install the upper center section. This is a critical
assembly so I will take my time and do it right......I hope.!
I could barely put the model together in my basement.
Cheers, Sal