Condor060

My Feedback: (2)

Yeah, I measured wrong in the beginning and ordered the wrong exstention for the prop shaft. I called the guy and he is going to trade this one back for the right size. I ordered a 2 inch and it only needed 1 1/4. It will give me about 3/16s between the cowl and the back plate.

I was waiting to see who would catch that.

GPutt33

My Feedback: (2)

Is anyone else having problems with the air valves leaking? The valve for the main gears seems to be fine, but the valve for the inner doors leaks out the back of the valve around the piston and the keeper? I e-mailed JetLegend to see if I could get another air tank to match the one that's installed but they said the tank would only cost about $12 I think but the shipping from China was going to $50 and they couldn't guarantee it would make it without being dented up so they basically said no. I wouldn't have paid the S&H anyhow. I've got a PM into the AeroWorks to see if they might not have spares. To get a little bit more air I've ordered the large Robart tank which will take me from 21.36 cu in up to 43 cu in. I'm going to make two new ply formers where the one's are now that hold the present tank and center the new one down the middle. I hope to be able to split the batteries up on either side of the tank this way I hope. Laying it all out it looks like it'll fit pretty easy.

flstn95

My Feedback: (2)

GPutt33,

I did have an air leak after completing the Mustang. However, I found that it was temperature related. I keep my shop heat at 55 to 60 degrees when I'm not working on anything. My air leak was happening when the gear was in the up position. What I found out was that after having my shop heat at 70 to 75 degrees for all day on a weekend, the air leak was gone and has not happened again. Also, I believe I read on this thread that someone mentioned that sometimes the gear on any retract airplane may have to be cycled quite a few times to seat the o rings on the airvalves. You may even consider putting some heat via a heat gun to the airvalve to help the o rings to seat properly. I am getting 4 complete gear cycles with a starting pressure of 110 psi with a single airtank. Some of the other guys on this thread have said they are going to an extra air tank for insurance. This is my first retract aircraft and in my mind all I need is for the gear to go up once and down once each flight, so with 4 cycles available, I'm thinking I'm ok. Liked the AW Mustang so much am starting a second one this weekend. Going to have to join AW anonymous pretty soon.

flstn95

GPutt33

My Feedback: (2)

The temp could be it then. It's a little cool in the garage, the heater is set at 55. I'll try taking the heat to it with the gun tomorrow and little by little see what happens. Your probably right about really only needing one cycle per flight, but I like you am working around my first retract bird as well. Only way I can learn is by asking questions and trying the answers given.

Thanks for the quick reply and the comment about the AW anonymous problem is pretty funny

Later and I'll let you know how the change in temp helps and I'll just keep cycling things to see if it helps seat things in as well.

rslstft

My Feedback: (10)

Flstn95, GPutt33,
I too had the valves leak, tried the extra O-rings AW includes, but it didn't help, so I ended up replacing the valves. I still have a leak somewhere only when the gear are down. I've tried and tried to find it but can't. Might be in the cylinder itself, not sure. Worst part is, when I check it in the garage, they hold air up and down no problem! Get out to the field - leak. I got a little frustrated, so just left it alone for a few days, I've been working 12 hours days anyway. I also ordered and received a gear failsafe from TamJets that I'm going to install just for some extra insurance. Other than that everything is fine. This plane flies so nice it almost relaxing to buzz around the sky. I am probably going to give Mark at AW a call to order a extra left or right gear just to have some parts and try a different cylinder see if that solves the leaking.

ForcesR

I know that the AW P-51D uses a different air system other then theRobart systembut your leaking air valve might be fixed the same way I did witha very leakyRobart air valve on my giantTopflite P-51D. I used air tool lube oil to solve the leaking valve problem. I disconnected the quick disconnects on the retract and down lines and added several drops of the lube oil into each line, repressurized the air system to 100psi and cycled the gear several times until the air pressure dropped to the point where the gear would not cycle any more. I re-pressurized the systemto 100psi and cycled the gear again until the pressure droppedbelowcycling pressure. I re-pressurized the system again to 100psi and left the system alone for 4hrs. When I rechecked the air pressure after 4hrs it read 95psi, leak fixed and I have not had a leaky valve since. The lube oil lubricates the o-rings and allows them to seat properly. Hopefully this technique will work for those who try it? It’s a lot cheaper adding the lube oil compared to buying a new air valve.

Roger

aghost

My Feedback: (13)

I've chased leaks like ForcesR, but using auto refrigerant lubricant (Ester 100). If the air lines are transparent (like Robarts) you can see the lubricant move thru the lines toward the leak.

Brian

rslstft

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks guys, I tried the oil first before replacing the valves and it did help, but not completely. I still wasn't comfortable with the small leaking so went ahead and replaced the valves. Ran some of the oil into the cylinders also, but hasn't seemed to help. I'll keep working on it and get it right. I have several aircraft with retracts so I had some valves sitting around - I usually buy a couple at a time just in case one goes bad, you know nothing ever fails when you can get spare parts, only on Saturday night before that day of flying!!! My Staggerwing can sit around for a day or two and not lose any air, same with my P-40 and that thing is several years old! I've worked with Bimba air cylinders extensively and know from experience just like everything else that is manufactured there are production tolerances, so might have just got one at the loose end.

rslstft

My Feedback: (10)

Well, to add a note to the above post. I think I finally found the leak. I isolated the fuselage and wing air systems and noticed only the wing section had a leak. I then isolated the left and right gear - just the left gear was leaking. Well to make a long story short, it seems when the cylinder for the left gear was assembled, the cylinder cap was a little loose, probably in order to get the air nipples to line up. I pulled the pin out that holds the cylinder to the mounting brackets and got a full turn in tightening it up. Had to back it off just a little to get the holes to line up and re-installed everything. Now when I air up to 110lbs, the guage doesn't move! I left it full for a couple of hours and didn't drop at all. Yea!!! Hopefully that will fix it once and for all.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Great job troubleshooting, congrats.

Condor060

My Feedback: (2)

Heres were I am so far.
1. Tail wheel doors need to be connected
2. Keleo Exhaust installed (not received yet)
3. Decals from Pro Mark (not received yet)

When I hooked up the retracts I found leaks around the system. I injected some air tool oil into the system to seat all the O rings. It worked perfect. At 110 lbs pressure I get 5 full retract cycles without a glitch. I made a video to show how well the system works. On the 5th retract cycle I am at 60 lbs pressure at it still works.

I re-pressurized the system to 110 lbs and let it sit for 15 minutes and re-checked to find out I had 98 lbs pressure remaining. After the oil was distributed throughout the system and a little (not much) adjustment to the retract servos I had this thing working like a charm.

Check out the video located at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2d1GbYiDWjEto see 5 full cycles at 110 lbs.

I LOVE THIS BIRD MANG.

RICK9303

My Feedback: (172)

Has anyone flown their P-51 yet?? I was mainly wondering how it handled on a grass runway, and what everyone thinks of the supplied retracts. Most of the videos are always off of paved runway, but some of us have to make do with grass. I have seen a bunch of posts asking how does it fly, but except the protype flying, that's all I've seen.
Rick

GPutt33

My Feedback: (2)

Condor - It's nice to hear that the air tool oil helped yours as well. I bought a small bottle from one of the auto parts stores and picked up a small syringe and 1/8" needles to inject it down the hoses with. Do you guys have a feel for how much total fluid you put into your systems?

aghost

My Feedback: (13)

I put a few drops in each line at the fuse/wing disconnects, about enough to make an inch or so of fluid in each line. I also put a few drops in through the fill line to get some oil into the air tank. Then work the retracts a few times to get the oil to move around.

Brian

efly726

Guys - you should check the pre-installed retract servos on your 51. I pulled both out because they were not consistantly opening and closing the valve. Take a look at the picture - the bottom seperated from the servo. I've since replaced both with a pair of HS80s.

Nick

GPutt33

My Feedback: (2)

Nick - Thanks for that catch. I had one other question. I was fooling around with the new Robart air tank and went to stick my fingers underneath the servo/air valve plate and felt the bottom of the servos almost resting on top of the gas tank. Now I don't have the tank in yet so it wasn't setting on the foam. When the tank is filled and 'hanging' in actual flight I'm wondering if it'll hang enough to actually rub the servo bottoms. I plan on putting some 3/8" ply shims on each side of the current rails to raise it a tad if needed. Just another observation.........

efly726

Hi Greg - I actually shimmed the entire plywood plate rather than just the servos. It's these little things that are causing me to question the value of the model. I gave feedback to Rocco and Kevin (AW) a couple of weeks ago but haven't heard back. On my model, the invasion stripes didn't match up on the fuse, the wing dowels didn't match their mounting holes, the front windshiled blue paint didn't match up with the covering and now I've replaced the servos. Don't get me wrong, I like the model but given the lack of attention to detail I question the price. I'm hoping after I fly the model that I'll feel differently.

GPutt33

My Feedback: (2)

Now I know some of you guys were probably (or still are) biting your tongues after MY last little post and question about the space between the airtract servo's and the tank[X(]. I finally had a few minutes to go and look at the P-51 again to see where I needed to start and discovered that "gosh, the tank does fit if it's on it's side as shown in ALL of the pictures and instructions.

Just give me a little space and once and awhile this ol'brain will hiccup and do a re-start and I'm on the right path again

efly26 - I'm afraid I checked out what you commented on above and mine all matches up almost perfectly.

efly726

I'm sure your's is fine Greg. Looks like the quality assurance guy was on a break when mine made it down to the end of the line. The tell will be in the flying. How close are you to finishing your 51?

Nick

Aero-Works

Nick,

Just saw your post about your issues with the P-51. Give us a call so we can discuss I want to make certain you are happy and we don’t have problems with future productions.

Please ask for Rocco or Kim, Thanks!

Thank You
Rocco
Aeroworks
303-371-4222

GPutt33

My Feedback: (2)

Well I think I about completed the swap over to the larger Robart air tank. Still have plenty of room for all the radio gear and batteries so I think I'm pretty happy with it. Wing fits fine with nothing tight. I had to move the gas tank forward about 3/4" rather then having it sitting against the former in the at the rear of the tank. I epoxied in the new rear lite ply plate and used four blind nuts for the forward one. Small block of balsa at the rear of the tank keeps it from sliding back and forth.

efly726

I finally had a break in the weather and loaded the 51 for its first trip to the field. All fueled up, range check and glichs on both the rudder and aleron servos. My kit did not come with the 2.4 resistor - was one supposed to be included?

Nick

flstn95

My Feedback: (2)

Efly,

the production models have the resistor built into the gear sequencer. I have not range checked mine yet, but everything works fine in the shop. I am new to 2.4 and the thing I wonder about is my receiver is mounted next to the air tank and the servo leads and various wiring aare very close and in some cases right on top of the receiver. Fellow modelers say that it will not bother the 2.4 systems. Anyone out there who agrees or disagrees?

flstn95

efly726

Thanks but given the problems I've had with my model (see my previous post) I wouldn't be surprised if my sequencer was pre-production. I have a brand new 921 JR receiver and 9303. The receiver is positioned in the rudder bay near the bottom of the stock air tank (I had to add a second tank). The DA50 ignition module is way up front away from the radio. I'm quickly losing interest in this bird.

rslstft

My Feedback: (10)

Nick,
I too am running 2.4 in my P-51. I'm using JR's 1221 receiver with the 3 satellite receivers. The main receiver is in the location shown in the instructions, one on the "floor" just inside the scoop at the bottom of the fuselage, one on the right side of the fuse near the tail wheel, and the 3rd one on the left side of the fuse just under where the wing mounting bolt pads are. Mine range check fine, no glitches. I usually use the flight logger for the first couple of flights to see if the receivers are in good locations. JR says that it's normal to have 50 - 100 fades per flight on any one of the receivers, but I only got about 10 - 12, so I guess placement was fine. My plane came with an addendum to the instructions stating the same thing flstn95 said about the resistor built in to the sequencer and as such, I didn't use it. I too have the ignition module for the DA up front mounted on the engine box. Sorry you are having so much trouble with the plane, even with the cost, I'm very happy with mine. Flew her today and everytime I take it up, just about everyone stops to watch (talk about nerve racking!!!!). I think I need to move the CG a little more forward. I balanced it just a hair aft of the recommended point, but the elevator is very sensitive. I can look around and see if I kept the resistor and send it to you if you'd like to give it a try, but I think I tossed it.