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Aero Works P-51?

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Old 01-13-2012, 09:11 AM
  #926
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

James,
My cowl mounts are doing the same thing. Did you reinstall eyelets when you repaired your cowl?
Zeeb,
I agree, your installation looks great. Hope it all works for you. I've been having alot of problems with my DA going dead in flight. It's weird, just started happening after a lot of perfect flights, can't figure it out. Oh well, just keep plugging away at it.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:30 AM
  #927
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

James,

Were you using the tiny rubber O-rings that only seem to last a couple of times on installing the cowl? I'm currently looking for a source for those O-rings as I don't have any that tiny and past experience indicates they may help prevent the problem

Russ,

I think it was you I had the discussion with about the Sierra roll pins? No directions with the gear and I find this package of four roll pins in one of the oleo struts. Had to call Darryl to ask him what they were for.... I know I had an exchange with someone about that but I don't recall it being James????? But thank you for the thought.

Also where is your ignition module mounted, on the bottom of the engine box like AW shows or did you move it inside the fuselage? I've seen several reports here of dead sticks which turned out to be the module overheating about five minutes or so into a flight and then it shuts down. So some have moved the module inside and that's why mine is inside. The other possible problem is that something has changed in the fuel system, blockage, air leak or the like which has cause the engine to go lean and get hot and they'll shut down.
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Old 01-13-2012, 12:11 PM
  #928
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

Zeeb,
Thanks for the suggestions, I DID move the ignition inside and that's when I quite having dead sticks for quite a while. Just all of a sudden without doing any changes, the problem started again. I change the entire fuel system, tank, clunk, lines, filter, everything and still does it. My next thing is either try a new ignition box or rebuilding the carb, but I doubt it's the carb as it runs fine for anywhere from 4 - 7 minutes then just suddenly dies. Usually when the engine overheats, you can hear it sag a little, lose power, then it dies. Mine, just gives a cough, then about 5-10 seconds later dies, almost like it's running out of fuel.

On another note, I got a good look at the B model at the AMA show and talked to Rocco quite a bit. It's really a nice looking model and I'm sure the fans of B models will like it. (Me - I'm a D model type!)
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Old 01-13-2012, 12:19 PM
  #929
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

Normal0falsefalsefalseontGrowAutofit />MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

I didn’t reinstall the eyelets. I simply put some heavy plastic tape on the outside of the each hole and then filled the hole with regular epoxy. I also added some glass chop in the center of the enlarged hole and then laid 3 layers of glass on the top of each repair.

As it relates to the o-rings – I gave up on those. I’m using rubber back #6 washers (#4 would work too). They aren’t as noticeable as you might think.

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Old 01-13-2012, 01:04 PM
  #930
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

Quote:
ORIGINAL: rslstft

Zeeb,
Thanks for the suggestions, I DID move the ignition inside and that's when I quite having dead sticks for quite a while. Just all of a sudden without doing any changes, the problem started again. I change the entire fuel system, tank, clunk, lines, filter, everything and still does it. My next thing is either try a new ignition box or rebuilding the carb, but I doubt it's the carb as it runs fine for anywhere from 4 - 7 minutes then just suddenly dies. Usually when the engine overheats, you can hear it sag a little, lose power, then it dies. Mine, just gives a cough, then about 5-10 seconds later dies, almost like it's running out of fuel.

On another note, I got a good look at the B model at the AMA show and talked to Rocco quite a bit. It's really a nice looking model and I'm sure the fans of B models will like it. (Me - I'm a D model type!)
Sounds like it's pointing more toward the module but there are a couple of other things to try. I've got a little 50cc aerobat that was doing something similar. The local engine guru suggested I try changing the battery which I did and it didn't help. So he suggested plugging the battery directly into the ignition to by pass the switch. I pooh poohed that idea thinking a switch would either work or not and I chased a bunch of other stuff including the fuel system and carb overhaul. It was still doing it so in desperation I connected the battery directly to the module and presto! problem solved, it was the switch going bad.

Other "shot in the dark" possibilities before you go buying and ignition module; DA's are notorious for this type of behavior if the Power Pole connectors feeding the module have not been replaced. Weight and vibration I guess causes them to develop an intermittant short near the connectors. Other issue although not as common is the same thing in the ignition timing pickup wire at the two little servo connectors, wires start going south and it's hidden by the nifty red jacket on that wire.

I don't suppose it'll do it on the ground? I was thinking maybe you could try warming up the module with a heat gun and see if it does it? Bit extreme on that one and I've never done it but the idea popped into my head. Last, what has DA got to say about it?

On the new B model, I'm not a fan but IIRC you can buy it without landing gear? Wonder why????
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Old 01-13-2012, 01:24 PM
  #931
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

Ha! I did notice the plane is offered without gear! Hmmmm.
Funny you mention about the connection with the engine. I talked to the guys from DA at the AMA show and they asked it I had a ignition kill wired in (I do) and suggested I bypass it to see if that's the problem. Also mentioned about the battery and switch. Plus, I do still have to stock Anderson Powerpoles on the wires, so may change those to Deans. They said their ignition is very tolerant of heat and usually won't overheat under normal circumstances. I haven't had time to delve into it yet and give these a try.
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Old 01-13-2012, 02:15 PM
  #932
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

Well sounds like they pointed you at similar things to what I mentioned. I will say that there does seem to be a few more issues with DA ignitions than maybe some other makes but DA usually makes it good if that turns out to be the issue, it's just pin pointing the thing that can be difficult. As far as heat not really affecting them, well all electronics can have issues and if it had been behind the muffler causing it to quit for some time before you moved it, it may have started the process?

On the PowerPoles, even DA suggested to me that I replace them so I changed 'em out on my 120 and the 60, but that is not an "official" position from DA... lol

I'm not sure changing out to Deans would solve the problem as it seems to be a case of the extra weight of the connectors and model vibration. It starts breaking the wires inside the insulation so it's difficult to detect and I'm thinking a Deans would be a similar issue? I just use HD servo connectors to feed the power to my gasser ignition modules just like most of the manufacturers use. Not sure why DA has those PowerPoles but was led to believe that it has something to do with the Austrailian module supplier not wishing to modify the unit.

Yeah my little aerobat that I had the issue with has a fiber optic kill switch, all my gassers do but if you just go directly from the battery to the module you bypass both components and my problem was with the off/on switch not the kill switch.
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Old 01-13-2012, 02:27 PM
  #933
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

Thanks for the help, Zeeb. As soon as I get some time, I give these suggestions a try and report back.
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:43 PM
  #934
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

CG range????

Hey Guys,

This is the first model I've assembled where the manufacturer gives you an exact location for the CG rather than a range. I normally start with a CG slightly ahead of the center of that range for a slightly nose heavy model to do the Maiden flights and initial trimming, and then adjust the CG back to fit my tastes.

So are you guys using the manual's 2 3/4" back from the leading edge at the wing tip only, or is there a range one might use?

I haven't actually checked mine yet as I have to get a friend to come over and help, I'm just trying to cover my bases....

Thanks!
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Old 01-17-2012, 08:54 AM
  #935
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

Zeeb:
Normal0falsefalsefalseontGrowAutofit />MicrosoftInternetExplorer4


Ican't tell you the range, but I did everything per the manual and my CG came out to where it was supposed to be. If anything I’m nose heavy and the plane flies perfectly.

James
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Old 01-17-2012, 09:08 AM
  #936
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?



Hello All,



I’ve finally decided to jump in with both feet and get the P-51! My plans are to detail it out with a sliding canopy, functional bomb/tank drops and scale exhaust. I think I have worked out the details for the canopy and drop tanks but I need some advice on the scale exhaust.



I found that Keleo Creations now has an exhaust for the AW P-51 and looks like a pretty easy modification to do.





But I do have some questions;



Has anyone had any experience with Keleo Creations’ exhaust systems and are they a good product?



Other than cutting the cowl for the engine cylinder, how much more should I open up the cowl for proper engine cooling? (I’m planning on using a DA 50)



Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer!

http://www.keleo-creations.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=92_93&produ cts_id=243
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Old 01-17-2012, 09:18 AM
  #937
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

The scale exhaust looked and “functioned” well on the plane that I saw it on, which was another Mustang with a DLE30 in it. The exhaust "functioned," but severely starved the engine of performance. So much so that my buddy by-passed it and added a traditional exhaust system. Take a look at the Aeroworks version. If it looks like the exhaust isn’t doing anything “unnatural,” it could be worth a try. The version I saw really choked the flow and made it take a very circuitous path to exit.
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Old 01-17-2012, 10:55 AM
  #938
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?


Quote:
ORIGINAL: JamesPool

The scale exhaust looked and “functioned” well on the plane that I saw it on, which was another Mustang with a DLE30 in it. The exhaust ''functioned,'' but severely starved the engine of performance. So much so that my buddy by-passed it and added a traditional exhaust system. Take a look at the Aeroworks version. If it looks like the exhaust isn’t doing anything “unnatural,” it could be worth a try. The version I saw really choked the flow and made it take a very circuitous path to exit.

Sencond that! I had one on a ZDZ-50NG in a T/F. It robs about 700 RPMs. Mine didn't stay on long. I would just go with a J-tec compact pitts muffler. It was made for the DA50 to be used in this plane.

Kelly

BTW, I thought the AW 51 came with a sliding canopy already.
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Old 01-17-2012, 03:11 PM
  #939
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

I thought those exhausts were tested for performance.
If they starve the engine of rpm's don't you think that Kelvin would of said something.
I got mine for the DLE55. The engine is not mounted on the fuse yet should I be worried?


Cheers
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Old 01-17-2012, 03:56 PM
  #940
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

I had one on an ESM Mustang with a DLE-30. It looked and sounded great! Performance wasn't up to snuff. Other planes at the field with the same engine and prop with the stock exhaust were getting 700 RPM more than me. I kept the scale stacks on the side of the cowl, but put a JTEC pitts on it. I gained 900 RPM. The plane is a rocket now.

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Old 01-17-2012, 04:59 PM
  #941
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

looks nice, but the more turns and tubing the exhaust has to go thru the slower it goes. The faster it gets out the more power an engine can make.

BTW he in the selling business.
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Old 01-17-2012, 05:18 PM
  #942
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?



Thanks to everyone who has responded so far.



I had no idea that those exhaust systems robbed that much power from the engine! I think I’ll just go ahead and stick with the J-Tec pitts unless someone can show me evidence to the contrary.



@ Thunderbolt47: Yes the AW P-51 does come with a sliding canopy. What I plan to do is set it up so it can be opened and closed from my transmitter. I have also given some considerable thought to making the rear radiator vent flap operational but haven’t decided if I should link to the throttle or to run it as a separate channel by itself. I’m still doing the research on it.

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Old 01-17-2012, 07:26 PM
  #943
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

I got mine hooked up to the throttle for now just to see how she works.Later maybe I'll change it

Cheers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxau0...layer_embedded
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Old 01-18-2012, 07:27 AM
  #944
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?



Hey Zorba,



I checked out your video and I really like your covering and rivet detail!
It looks like you did a first class job adding the operational cooling exhaust ramp.
Well done!

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Old 01-22-2012, 08:15 AM
  #945
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

i have finally glued the wing together.everything lines up ,locating dowels and wing bolts.went to start the air scoop and the rear of the scoop is 1/8" wider on both sides.won't let the flaps come down .i plan on contacting aeroworks on mon to see if anyone else has had this problem.anyone here run into this?
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:56 AM
  #946
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?


Quote:
ORIGINAL: miker49

i have finally glued the wing together.everything lines up ,locating dowels and wing bolts.went to start the air scoop and the rear of the scoop is 1/8'' wider on both sides.won't let the flaps come down .i plan on contacting aeroworks on mon to see if anyone else has had this problem.anyone here run into this?
Not seen that issue reported, one of the guys did have an issue with the air scoop fitting but it was an angle problem on an ARC version.

How wide is the scoop at the back corners? Mine is 7 3/4" straight across and the rear corners line up exactly with the corners formed by the trailing edge and the cutout for the flaps.

Check you locator pins on the front. Mine seemed to be short so I called AW and they said that sometimes in shipping the pins get knocked back into the wing. On one side all it took was a tiny bit of pressure and the pin slid back into the wing. On the other side, just a bit more pressure and in fact I was going to call it good and then it too broke loose. They should stick out the front of the wing about 1/2".
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Old 01-22-2012, 10:12 AM
  #947
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

Yes. I had the same probblem. Ijust removed the material from the scoop.

Fun stuff,
James
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Old 01-22-2012, 12:47 PM
  #948
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

mine to measures 73/4".the two outside points lay over the inside edge of the flap.my first idea was to take some off each edge.thought i would see what others have had here
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Old 01-22-2012, 01:08 PM
  #949
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

I had a similar problem with the scoop and the flaps. see post #883 and #885.
I trimmed the flap a bit and I had to fill under the scoop so it will line up with the rest of the fuse.
Mine was an ARC version.

Cheers
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:49 PM
  #950
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Default RE: Aero Works P-51?

Okay guys, can we stand another question/problem with the tailwheel gear doors?????

I monkeyed around with it when I changed out the airlines and did the leak check, I knew it was tight as has been mentioned but figured I'd adopt one of the fixes already engineered by several folks here.

I put the wing on it the other night for the first time and the landing gear ops check was less than I'd hoped for since I was setup with a bit more speed than I wanted to account for no tailwheel hookup at that time. Got the Robart adjustable valve for the inner gear doors too tight but the worst part is the tailwheel gear doors. Takes about 80psi in the system to get 'em open and when I retracted them the one door stays open.

It's REALLY stiff like one of the three hinges is binding, you can open the thing by hand and stop it wherever you want, even at a 45 degree angle with the little elastic snubbers hooked up even. Makes it that much harder for the gear to force the doors open.

Talked to Mark at AW today and he want's me to cut some of the snubbers as guys have been doing here and lube the hinges with silicone, but that's only part of the problem.

Any of you guys have a hinge misalignment issue or something with one of those gear doors? I can't see any glue in there but think at least one of the three hinges is out of line and cause the bind. Anybody got any ideas on how to check that without tearing all three hinges out and starting over?
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