Aero Works P-51?
#1102
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: north port,
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Just a little information. I had problems with an ESM giant scale Spitfire and a Top Flite P-40 The Spitfire had a DLE-55R with the rear carb. and rear muffler , I had all kinds of over heating problems . The solution turned out to be a velocity stack. to keep the carb from sucking the hot air from the muffler, it was to close to the muffler. I also had a problem with the P-40 with an XYZ 50 with a wrap around muffler and Rear carb same fix and it runs beautiful now . Some exceptions seem to work okay but if you are having an over heating problem with these type of setups try the Velocity stack. They sell them in different sizes, you just need it long enough to go inside the fire wall.
#1103
I'm just starting to build this plane and wanted to put a servo on the sliding canopy for added cool factor since the website seemed to indicate it was possible. Looking closer at how the canopy is connected to the plane, that isn't going to be as easy as I originally hoped. Seems I'll have to put the servo inside the cockpit perhaps behind the pilot where it's visible and attach some custom mount to the side rail of the canopy to attach to the servo.
Has anyone done this successfully and how did you do it?
Has anyone done this successfully and how did you do it?
#1105
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#1107
Cthomasmurray, I'm currently building this plane too and I found that 2.25" is the correct size tailwheel if using the robart electric retracts. Any bigger and the wheel will touch the back of the opening where the gear doors are during the cycle. I didn't see 2.25" on the link above.
#1108
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Murrieta , CA
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Anybody Building the AWP51D without the factory installed retracts, using robart air retracts and trying to figure out how to install the inner gear doors air accuator. Any body have pictures of install? HELP!
#1109
I'm using the robart electric retracts which are fantastic. So I can't help you with the air system specifically but I used servos for the inner gear doors and the install went much easier than I anticipated. A micro servo fits in the space available perfectly with a little cutting of the fiberglass wheel well to give it enough room to slide in the space behind it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0-JayX67J0
I could send more detailed pics of the servo if you like.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0-JayX67J0
I could send more detailed pics of the servo if you like.
Last edited by aadams1278; 11-05-2015 at 03:06 PM.
#1110
Join Date: Jun 2012
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I'm using the robart electric retracts which are fantastic. So I can't help you with the air system specifically but I used servos for the inner gear doors and the install went much easier than I anticipated. A micro servo fits in the space available perfectly with a little cutting of the fiberglass wheel well to give it enough room to slide in the space behind it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0-JayX67J0
I could send more detailed pics of the servo if you like.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0-JayX67J0
I could send more detailed pics of the servo if you like.
Thanks, Tom
#1111
I'll take some close up pics tomorrow of my set up. I was actually concerned about how i would mount the servo since i can't get to the top of it to insert the screw into the mounting tabs. I found these https://www.servocity.com/html/verti...l#.VjwSoK6rS34 during a search but decided against them since it appeared to be $6 for just one. Lucky for me, I bought hitec micro servos and those exact brackets were included with the servo and they work perfectly for this application. It is a little tricky to get to the screws to screw them in because you need a short screwdriver to fit inside the wheel well. It is also worth noting that the wood screws (not included) will protrude into the area where the wing joiner piece goes. I'm ok with that.
#1112
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Murrieta , CA
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Thank's, I guess you mount the servo, get it set-up and working, then remove the servo mounting screws until the wings are joined, then re-install.
BTW, do happen to know what the travel distance or stroke is?
Tom
BTW, do happen to know what the travel distance or stroke is?
Tom
#1113
That's precisely my plan.
I don't recall exactly but I think the travel distance was 17mm and maybe 19mm on the other door? The two doors are not exactly the same. I'll check tomorrow.
I used the hitec servo programmer to get the travel of each one just right since they have to be on a Y harness from my door sequencer.
I don't recall exactly but I think the travel distance was 17mm and maybe 19mm on the other door? The two doors are not exactly the same. I'll check tomorrow.
I used the hitec servo programmer to get the travel of each one just right since they have to be on a Y harness from my door sequencer.
#1116
Np. Looks like I may be a couple steps ahead of your build so ask any other questions as well. Glad to pass ideas around. I do have a solution to the canopy servo question I asked above. Not currently installed but I'll post that later when the servo comes in.
#1120
My understanding is the air cylinders for gear doors is worse for having them come open in flight. I was hoping the servo would be better since it will still hold its position after the movement cycle is finished.
My question is what is that material used for the built up area in front of the doors?
My question is what is that material used for the built up area in front of the doors?
#1122
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Murrieta , CA
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aadams1278, What about the outer gear door alignment
t with the gear strut? mine seem's ok gear up, but out of alignment gear down!
I haven't attached it yet, I set the gear in and it looks off.
Tom
t with the gear strut? mine seem's ok gear up, but out of alignment gear down!
I haven't attached it yet, I set the gear in and it looks off.
Tom
#1123
Yeah I was pretty disappointed about that too. It's a misalignment of the hinges so I can't adjust it without tearing the wing apart which I'm not willing to do. Because of that I was only able to use one ball link on the front side of the gear. I saw some pics of the original pre installed gear version and it appears they only used one ball link as well so Hopefully that will work ok.
#1125
If the gear would angle slightly forward that would be better for mine too. I can't easily do that without a lot of modification to the structure where the gear mounts so I did not try to do it. If I was to shim the gear mounts forward slightly with some washers or something the covers that go over the gear mounts wouldn't fit.
Because it's a ball link, the setup I have done with one link does not bind. If I was to put two links it would definitely bind on the back side.
Because it's a ball link, the setup I have done with one link does not bind. If I was to put two links it would definitely bind on the back side.