airborne2.4

plowboy,
I noticed you went with the OS 55AX.
Did you thought about using the new OS 65:
http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg0558.html
or the OS 70FS-a 4-stroke:
http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg0877.html

Daviddunham

Moving right along and almost ready to fire up the DLE if I could get the plug boot on the spark plug. It is not close to fitting over the DLE plug that came with the engine. Took the spring out to see if it would go then. No luck. Any suggestions?

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

The outside of the plug cap should completely cover the hex of the plug itself when properly seated.
Just keep trying.

Also, dump that crappy stock DLE/3 plug.
It's truly no good!!!!
Get a true NGK/CM-6 plug.

Daviddunham

Thanks! I got it, but the boot separated at the seam a bit when I pushed it on.


Searched the town for another plug as yours was not the only report of the DLE plug being junk. Not available, but ordered one at our local shop and passed the word on to the owner. He has two DLE's on his shelf and we got them out to check the fit boot/plug. About the same as mine. Looked at a couple of other engines...GS 62 and 20...DB twin. Much better fit. I won't judge the engine on just that point. Have heard some reports that it is tough to start until the carb gets some gas ran through it.

I'll post some pictures after I've flown her.

I moved the engine 5/8 inch forward and added a brass spinner on the nose. She looks like she will CG at 4 7/8 from the leading edge. We will see.

Dave

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Gas engines below say 50cc have such small volume area for crankcases as to not provide much suction when the choke is engaged.
Easy fix is to cover that small hole in the choke plate with some RTV/silicone rubber. It serves to increase the suction power for choke function only, so your gas is more easily pulled forward on these small gas engines.

Some solder the hole shut, but I'm not in favor of that coming loose.
If the RTV/silicone ever came loose, no problem.

But wait until you do a couple dozen cold starts, to see if you even want to try that.
Might not need it, but it's a good option!

qspilotcmh

Great thread but seems to slowed down. I'm thinking about getting the DLE20 combo very soon. How many people are running this setup as it looks very attractive? I have a few questions if anyone has experience with it:

How hard is the AW DLE20 mod?

How did you run the servo and ignition wires into the wing? I assume you need a few servo extensions and clips since the wings come off.

What's the largest prop I can run with the stock gear? How about the CF gear?

How big on the Ignition battery for the DLE20? I was thinking a small 4.8V NIMH 750 too keep weight down.

Thanks

qspilotcmh

I guess this plane is not very popular. 10 days with no posts or no answers to my questions. Not good for an seller support forum.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Very easy if you have a Dremel Moto tool (or a small band saw). I did mine waaay before AW came out with their adapter kit.
Their 'kit' btw, mounts the eng back too far. Mine's a good 1" farther forward, and needed as the suggested CG
is waay too far back, making this very tail heavy.

Read the instructions, it's shown there.

16" x 6 (or 8)

Stock LG is waaay too short for a 17 x 6 Zoar -or- Vess, which is best for the DLE20cc gasser.
I went to what's called "crazy legs" LG, way taller!

A 4-cell 1500mAh NiMh for ign, and a 4 -or- 5 cell 2000mAh NiMh for rcv.

Also, go back and read this thread (in 10 days you should have already done so). You'll find most of your concerns already covered.
Read post # 248, 252, and 256 for my reports.

Also read the 'sticky' posts in the part of AW support regarding CG and such [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10117030]ProX 260 CG Notice-Please Read[/link].
They're updates to the manual.

qspilotcmh

Thanks! I did read every page prior to my post. Your response cleared up / verified my of my questions.

I did purchase it and started working on the mid last night. The template edges are bigger than the plane so I'm not sure where I should cut. Plus there is play in the template. I guess if I keep the rail spacing equal it will be correct.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Yep, keep the rail spacing as equal as you can. Take too much off either side and you might be screwed.
Try getting your cut-out area forward as best you can, if possible.

qspilotcmh

Thanks! Oddly enough the template has the engine rail cut-out more forward than the pictures in the manual. I guess they took your advise and moved it further forward. I will post pics when complete.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

If they did, they'll never admit such to me, nor give credit where credit is due.
Many have found the stock & revised CG to be to far off making both the smaller & bigger versions tail heavy.

Ailerons MUST be centered on the SFG's, eng forward, and a heavy nose spinner used, in order to get stable flight.
AW says their suggested CG' are with hard core 3D flyers in mind.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Update.....

New photos showing modified Tetherite L-G
http://outlawhobbyproducts.com/tethe...r-90-size.html
Modified to reduce flexing.

and See thru Fortitude 8 ounce fuel tank (modified w/ceramic clunk [heavier than stock])
http://www.aerographix.biz/fuel_tanks.htm

And modified throttle linkage, using Dubro ball link ends.

This is STILL tons of fun to fly, and the DLE20cc gasser is very skimpy on fuel usage!!!
Temporarily I'm running an APC 17 x 8 prop, but spool up is a tad slower then the most
preferred Zoar/Vess 17 x 6 props.

Brettis

Ive come into this thread a bit late but i'm thinking of getting the pro x 260 60-90. with the way of the $US, thinking of importing the kit plus an engine.
i have an OS 65 ax but tossing up whether to get the 75ax or the 90.common sense and sense of adventure says go for the 95.
I will most likely go for the 95 but just thinking aloud if money goes tight and have to go for the cheaper option.
I will go back and start from the beginning of this thread when i have a bit more time.

Brettis

well there is no 60-90's in stock and not likely to be for a while so with $200 US just to ship out here its looking like a 46-60 bolted to my AX65 will be of the order.

Brettis

what size is the hole for the throttle on the 46-60.is it standard or mini, most of the pics ive seen seem to have mods done and hard to see if they are sticking out because of aligning with engine or they just had a spare servo and made it fit.

airborne2.4

Use this for your throttle:
http://www.aero-works.net/store/detail.aspx?ID=354

Brettis

almost done, 40-60 size with an OS65ax

Ernie Misner

Hi Airborne, I'm really surprised they are recommending the HS 65 for throttle. We've been through this on the profiles already..... tried the HS 65's, 81's, 82's and they all crap out eventually from vibration from the engine. The HS 85mg is the way to go. The pot is isolation mounted from vibration in the 85 and they last. A little more $ but much better than having them quit in mid air like I did.

Best of luck,

Ernie

qspilotcmh

Has anyone tried the 60 size without the SFG? I have 14 flights on mine with them. I need weight up front to balance mine so I was thinking about removing the SFG since they are 2oz aft of the CG. I know they help knife-edge but what other effect do they have?

Has anyone been getting fine lines in there wing tube? Mine have several small lines in them after flying. It looks like something is rubbing the tube but everything on the plane and wings are smooth.

How is the 65mg throttle servos holding up to gas motors? Since I need weight up front I thought about putting a mini servo instead of the micro. I'm worried that small servo may fail from the engine vibrations.

Thanks

qspilotcmh

Wow over a week and no response from Aeroworks on their own support thread.

Mark Dennis

My Feedback: (4)

Has anyone tried the 60 size without the SFG? I have 14 flights on mine with them. I need weight up front to balance mine so I was thinking about removing the SFG since they are 2oz aft of the CG. I know they help knife-edge but what other effect do they have?
The airplane still fly's well without the SFG's, It will help shift the CG forward a noticeable amount. The best thing you could do is take them off and fly it, see how the plane handles for what you are looking for and if you're unhappy with the performance you can always bolt them back on.
Has anyone been getting fine lines in there wing tube? Mine have several small lines in them after flying. It looks like something is rubbing the tube but everything on the plane and wings are smooth.
That is normal, the tube rotates inside the guide tube and is rubbed by the ribs of the wing. As long as it is not cutting deeply into the tube you have nothing to worry about.

How is the 65mg throttle servos holding up to gas motors? Since I need weight up front I thought about putting a mini servo instead of the micro. I'm worried that small servo may fail from the engine vibrations.
Through all of our flight testing we never had a servo fail, as long as your spinner and prop are balanced the vibration should be minimal enough to not damage the servo.

Let me know if you need anything else,

Mark Dennis
Aeroworks, Inc.
4903 Nome Street
Denver, CO 80239
303-371-4222 ext. 105

Brettis

whats the best way to balance a prop AND a spinner. Most spinners do not allow a centre point up front

qspilotcmh

Thanks Mark good info!

indiarcclub

very informative mark....