Big Stick tail wheel broken
10-18-2011, 06:23 AM
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Big Stick tail wheel broken
Second day out with my new Tower Hobbies G38 powered 80 inch span Big Stick and the wire on the tail wheel snapped off. Seems like I had one 4 or so years ago that did the same thing. Any else have that happen? What is the best fix anyone has found. Just getting another one of the same material is out of the question.. Thanks Brian
10-18-2011, 07:01 AM
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RE: Big Stick tail wheel broken
Brian:
I had the very same thing happen to me last month. Bummer for sure.
Here is how I fixed it and it works fine.
I replaced the tail wheel with a Sig external tailwheel (similar to Ohio Superstar) with the spring steel leaf.
Added a piece of 3/16 lite ply to the rear of the fuse where the Sig unit attaches. Due to the configuration of
the rudder and elevator it was not possible to use the suppliled springs to activate the tail wheel however. I
installed another servo in the fuse behind the existing servo tray and ran pull-pull lines to the tillar on the tail
wheel. The cables WILL exit the fuse slightly ahead of where the leading edge of the fin are however about
5/16" above the bottom edge of the fuse. I did use some small guide tubes (actually antenna tubes) for the
cable runs and left about 1" outside the fuse. This will allow the cables to make a turn to line up with the ends
of the tiller arm. I used the stock Sig tiller arm. The only thing you have to be careful of is that these cables are
now on the OUTSIDE of the fuse and down low. So far I have had no trouble.
I setup a Mix (Futaba 12Z) and set the new tail wheel servo as the rudder (MASTER) and channel 8 (Aux2) to the REAL
rudder (SLAVE) with TRIM OFF. I can trim the tail wheel for steering and NOT affect the rudder (I never use rudder
trim anyhow).
So far it is working.
Good luck.
Dan
I had the very same thing happen to me last month. Bummer for sure.
Here is how I fixed it and it works fine.
I replaced the tail wheel with a Sig external tailwheel (similar to Ohio Superstar) with the spring steel leaf.
Added a piece of 3/16 lite ply to the rear of the fuse where the Sig unit attaches. Due to the configuration of
the rudder and elevator it was not possible to use the suppliled springs to activate the tail wheel however. I
installed another servo in the fuse behind the existing servo tray and ran pull-pull lines to the tillar on the tail
wheel. The cables WILL exit the fuse slightly ahead of where the leading edge of the fin are however about
5/16" above the bottom edge of the fuse. I did use some small guide tubes (actually antenna tubes) for the
cable runs and left about 1" outside the fuse. This will allow the cables to make a turn to line up with the ends
of the tiller arm. I used the stock Sig tiller arm. The only thing you have to be careful of is that these cables are
now on the OUTSIDE of the fuse and down low. So far I have had no trouble.
I setup a Mix (Futaba 12Z) and set the new tail wheel servo as the rudder (MASTER) and channel 8 (Aux2) to the REAL
rudder (SLAVE) with TRIM OFF. I can trim the tail wheel for steering and NOT affect the rudder (I never use rudder
trim anyhow).
So far it is working.
Good luck.
Dan
10-18-2011, 07:10 AM
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RE: Big Stick tail wheel broken
Thanks Dan. Good idea. great thinking. Brian
ORIGINAL: dant-RCU
Brian:
I had the very same thing happen to me last month. Bummer for sure.
Thanks Dan
Sounds like you have been doing this a while. Great thinking. Brian
Here is how I fixed it and it works fine.
I replaced the tail wheel with a Sig external tailwheel (similar to Ohio Superstar) with the spring steel leaf.
Added a piece of 3/16 lite ply to the rear of the fuse where the Sig unit attaches. Due to the configuration of
the rudder and elevator it was not possible to use the suppliled springs to activate the tail wheel however. I
installed another servo in the fuse behind the existing servo tray and ran pull-pull lines to the tillar on the tail
wheel. The cables WILL exit the fuse slightly ahead of where the leading edge of the fin are however about
5/16'' above the bottom edge of the fuse. I did use some small guide tubes (actually antenna tubes) for the
cable runs and left about 1'' outside the fuse. This will allow the cables to make a turn to line up with the ends
of the tiller arm. I used the stock Sig tiller arm. The only thing you have to be careful of is that these cables are
now on the OUTSIDE of the fuse and down low. So far I have had no trouble.
I setup a Mix (Futaba 12Z) and set the new tail wheel servo as the rudder (MASTER) and channel 8 (Aux2) to the REAL
rudder (SLAVE) with TRIM OFF. I can trim the tail wheel for steering and NOT affect the rudder (I never use rudder
trim anyhow).
So far it is working.
Good luck.
Dan
Brian:
I had the very same thing happen to me last month. Bummer for sure.
Thanks Dan
Sounds like you have been doing this a while. Great thinking. Brian
Here is how I fixed it and it works fine.
I replaced the tail wheel with a Sig external tailwheel (similar to Ohio Superstar) with the spring steel leaf.
Added a piece of 3/16 lite ply to the rear of the fuse where the Sig unit attaches. Due to the configuration of
the rudder and elevator it was not possible to use the suppliled springs to activate the tail wheel however. I
installed another servo in the fuse behind the existing servo tray and ran pull-pull lines to the tillar on the tail
wheel. The cables WILL exit the fuse slightly ahead of where the leading edge of the fin are however about
5/16'' above the bottom edge of the fuse. I did use some small guide tubes (actually antenna tubes) for the
cable runs and left about 1'' outside the fuse. This will allow the cables to make a turn to line up with the ends
of the tiller arm. I used the stock Sig tiller arm. The only thing you have to be careful of is that these cables are
now on the OUTSIDE of the fuse and down low. So far I have had no trouble.
I setup a Mix (Futaba 12Z) and set the new tail wheel servo as the rudder (MASTER) and channel 8 (Aux2) to the REAL
rudder (SLAVE) with TRIM OFF. I can trim the tail wheel for steering and NOT affect the rudder (I never use rudder
trim anyhow).
So far it is working.
Good luck.
Dan
10-19-2011, 03:42 AM
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RE: Big Stick tail wheel broken
How did the stik balance with the G38? I've got a g45 lying around and was thinking of getting one, but I wouldn't want to add a ton of weight to it. Can the servos or anything be moved to the rear to help? Thanks
10-19-2011, 03:53 AM
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RE: Big Stick tail wheel broken
It is a tad nose heavy with the G38, and the servos in the rear. I'm sure I could cure it with some stick on weights, but it flys just fine as is. The Big Stick come with provisions/cut outs for mounting the servos in the tail. It is tons of fun.
ORIGINAL: G_Brill
How did the stik balance with the G38? I've got a g45 lying around and was thinking of getting one, but I wouldn't want to add a ton of weight to it. Can the servos or anything be moved to the rear to help? Thanks
How did the stik balance with the G38? I've got a g45 lying around and was thinking of getting one, but I wouldn't want to add a ton of weight to it. Can the servos or anything be moved to the rear to help? Thanks
10-19-2011, 10:11 AM
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RE: Big Stick tail wheel broken
I happened to see a Sullivan up to
16 pound TW assembly hanging on my peg board, and JB welded it to the broken shaft hanging out of the bottom of the fuse. looks decent, Seems to be holding. Well I'll see if it holds up under a few landings. Can send a picture with an email address. I could never get the hang of loading pictures here. Brian
16 pound TW assembly hanging on my peg board, and JB welded it to the broken shaft hanging out of the bottom of the fuse. looks decent, Seems to be holding. Well I'll see if it holds up under a few landings. Can send a picture with an email address. I could never get the hang of loading pictures here. Brian
