GP GEE BEE
#76
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RE: GP GEE BEE
Got my gee bee in today, this thing look's great, im going to put a YS 140DZ, it's 33ozs. I will be using a apc 17x10 prop. how does she fly???????
#78
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RE: GP GEE BEE
The first flight was great. It is very easy to get off the runway and is very stable in flight. It rolls and knife edges perfect. The engine was very rich and at full throttle was cruising at about 90 mph. once I can lean it out it will top over 100mph I'm sure. it was a little scary on landing so I stopped the engine at touch down and gave it full up elevator to keep it from nosing over. What a great plane is is! The wheel pants should be reinforced on the inside to prevent spliting. I would also recommend nothing less than a 120 2 or 4 stroke. I wish I had a digital camcorder.
Gene
Gene
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RE: GP GEE BEE
ORIGINAL: Anson
I really wanted to put a gas engine in... I wish I could have used the smaller one (it's a 35) in the GP Gee Bee
I really wanted to put a gas engine in... I wish I could have used the smaller one (it's a 35) in the GP Gee Bee
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RE: Pacific Aeromodels Gee Bee Y
ORIGINAL: Anson
How does it fly with the Quadra 35? Was balance a big issue?
How does it fly with the Quadra 35? Was balance a big issue?
#84
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RE: GP Gee Bee R-1
would a g23 work on it thats the only thing i have close to the right engine . or so fare whats the best engine . i don't need a lot of speed just need to get used to the way they fly so me won't pile my 50% up when its ready and i am.
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RE: GP Gee Bee R-1
ORIGINAL: prophanger1
would a g23 work on it?
would a g23 work on it?
#90
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RE: GP GEE BEE
ORIGINAL: GeeBee_R2
I am at the point of installing the needle adjustment. I am thinking of extending it with cable to the opening in the cowl next to the fusalage. Does anybody have suggestions?
Gene
PS A 15 inch prop or bigger looks good. Anything smaller does not look scale.
I am at the point of installing the needle adjustment. I am thinking of extending it with cable to the opening in the cowl next to the fusalage. Does anybody have suggestions?
Gene
PS A 15 inch prop or bigger looks good. Anything smaller does not look scale.
#91
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RE: RE: GP GEE BEE
Hay Guys,
My Gee Bee has a lot of slop in the stab. How did you fix yours? Did you push the stab towards the top and add support pieces underneath or did you leave it centered and add support to the top and bottom?
Also, who else is running the plane with a Satio 120. I mounted mine at a 45 degrees and I'm having a problem with the muffler location. My only solution at this time is to cut an opening in the bottom of the cowl. Any hints would be great.
Thanks
Dave
My Gee Bee has a lot of slop in the stab. How did you fix yours? Did you push the stab towards the top and add support pieces underneath or did you leave it centered and add support to the top and bottom?
Also, who else is running the plane with a Satio 120. I mounted mine at a 45 degrees and I'm having a problem with the muffler location. My only solution at this time is to cut an opening in the bottom of the cowl. Any hints would be great.
Thanks
Dave
#92
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RE: GP GEE BEE
hey roy,
i got the GP BEE GEE last summer and i put a ys 140 in it, a 120 would be more than enough power for it. as for flying it flew great, it was very stable going fast and slow. the only problem you have to watch out for is cross winds when landing, it will roll on you. the plane is very fast so do a few landing approuches before landing. it takes a while for the plane to lose air speed while landing. if landing on grass the plane tends to nose over after landing and slowing down. one more thing, keep the CG with in a 1/4 inch of the book spec's. it is a really cool looking plane in the air and low fly by's. good flying.
steve
i got the GP BEE GEE last summer and i put a ys 140 in it, a 120 would be more than enough power for it. as for flying it flew great, it was very stable going fast and slow. the only problem you have to watch out for is cross winds when landing, it will roll on you. the plane is very fast so do a few landing approuches before landing. it takes a while for the plane to lose air speed while landing. if landing on grass the plane tends to nose over after landing and slowing down. one more thing, keep the CG with in a 1/4 inch of the book spec's. it is a really cool looking plane in the air and low fly by's. good flying.
steve
#93
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RE: RE: RE: GP GEE BEE
Just curious as to how strong is the fiberglass fuselage. The Dynaflite (Great Planes) BOT ARF fiberglass fuselage is pretty thin beyond the trailing edge of the wing and doesn't give me any great faith in its longevity. All my other glider fuselages all feel solid everywhere. So I was wondering how good the fiberglass in the Gee Bee or their Lancair for that matter, was. From my experience with the BOT I'd be thinking it was at the lowest edge of the quality range.
#97
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RE: GP GEE BEE (Robart Landing Gear)
I am currently assembling a GP Gee Bee. The quality of the kit is outstanding.
I disagree with the comment in Post 39 regarding the wood supplied for the wing joiner. Once all three pieces are glued together, the laminated wing joiner is light yet very strong in the compression mode (like it should be). Yes, the individual pieces of wood will bend in the lateral direction prior to laminating them together but spars don't bend in that direction when installed in the wing. The provided material is more than adequate.
I will be using a YS120AC with on-board ignition, Slimline Pitts style muffler, and an extension kit. JR4131 servos will be used on all control surfaces with carbon fiber pushrods. A micro servo for the throttle will be mounted on the firewall using the provided servo mount.
I installed the Robart gear last night. Wow ... beautiful pieces of machine work and they drop right in with minimal effort. The hole in the landing gear block needed to be opened up slightly, as the wire used by Robart is larger in diameter than the stock GP landing gear wire. Also, the GP wheels provided with my kit will not fit on the Robart axles. The ID of the brass bushing on the GP wheel is too small for the Robart axle. I don't think it's possible to drill this bushing out either, so I ordered the Robart 4" diamond tread wheels. According to Robart, the gear will add approximately 9 ounces but ground handling should be much improved. Also, I think the stock spring rate is too stiff. They provide instructions on how to cut the spring coil to soften the compression, if necessary. I takes approximately 8 pounds of force to compress the gear completely. I won't cut down the coils until the airplane is complete and ready to fly however.
I will post some pictures of the landing gear for others that are contemplating the purchase. Has anyone flown a Gee Bee with the Robart gear? If so, please post your experiences!
I disagree with the comment in Post 39 regarding the wood supplied for the wing joiner. Once all three pieces are glued together, the laminated wing joiner is light yet very strong in the compression mode (like it should be). Yes, the individual pieces of wood will bend in the lateral direction prior to laminating them together but spars don't bend in that direction when installed in the wing. The provided material is more than adequate.
I will be using a YS120AC with on-board ignition, Slimline Pitts style muffler, and an extension kit. JR4131 servos will be used on all control surfaces with carbon fiber pushrods. A micro servo for the throttle will be mounted on the firewall using the provided servo mount.
I installed the Robart gear last night. Wow ... beautiful pieces of machine work and they drop right in with minimal effort. The hole in the landing gear block needed to be opened up slightly, as the wire used by Robart is larger in diameter than the stock GP landing gear wire. Also, the GP wheels provided with my kit will not fit on the Robart axles. The ID of the brass bushing on the GP wheel is too small for the Robart axle. I don't think it's possible to drill this bushing out either, so I ordered the Robart 4" diamond tread wheels. According to Robart, the gear will add approximately 9 ounces but ground handling should be much improved. Also, I think the stock spring rate is too stiff. They provide instructions on how to cut the spring coil to soften the compression, if necessary. I takes approximately 8 pounds of force to compress the gear completely. I won't cut down the coils until the airplane is complete and ready to fly however.
I will post some pictures of the landing gear for others that are contemplating the purchase. Has anyone flown a Gee Bee with the Robart gear? If so, please post your experiences!
#98
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RE: RE: RE: GP GEE BEE
Aivia
I installed the Robert Gear with the Robert Diamond wheels. I wasn't planning on cutting a spring until after the first few flights. I fly off a rough grass field and I want see how it taxies and lands first. Also, did you notice once you tighten the screws down that both wheels have toe-in.
Dave
I installed the Robert Gear with the Robert Diamond wheels. I wasn't planning on cutting a spring until after the first few flights. I fly off a rough grass field and I want see how it taxies and lands first. Also, did you notice once you tighten the screws down that both wheels have toe-in.
Dave
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RE: GP GEE BEE (Robart Gear)
Dave,
I did notice the toe-in. This is a good thing, in my opinion. It should improve ground handling (in theory). I also fly off of grass ... I'm anxious to see how this gear handles the bumps. Is your airplane ready to fly? If not, how close are you to being done?
Scott
I did notice the toe-in. This is a good thing, in my opinion. It should improve ground handling (in theory). I also fly off of grass ... I'm anxious to see how this gear handles the bumps. Is your airplane ready to fly? If not, how close are you to being done?
Scott
#100
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RE: GP GEE BEE
Would someone flying the GP Gee Bee comment on the control surface throws suggested in the manual. Specifically 7/8" on the ailerons seems excessive. Comments ??
Thanks
Mark
Thanks
Mark