Me-109K4

My Feedback: (1)

Anybody have any trouble with the belly pan not fitting right? Mine seems to be just a tad too long and will not let the wing seat fully. Still waiting on my Robarts, ordered them three weeks ago. I called Robart Friday, but of course the production manager was out to lunch. I was told, however, that the gear is being revised, hopefully to fix the wheel problem. I hope to find out when I call back tomorrow.

alpinestar

I ran into the same belly pan problem, wound up sanding a bit off the trailing edge. I still had a small gap along the wing, so I sanded about a 1/2 inch strip over the joint, used some filler putty & painted the seam. I few extra steps but easier than trying to get that thing to fit then magically get epoxy only where I wanted it.
Using Hitec HS-635's on all surfaces. Thinking of a Saito 182 twin for this one; any other twin powered Gee Bees out there??

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

My belly pan fit great. I ground the wing mating area down till the pan fit the fuse.
I am putting an OS 1.60 twin in mine. I have flown one with this engine and it was great.

wagas

I also had a belly pan problem. I started putting my together last week. My belly pan would not fit flush with fuse at ALL. I had to remove the entire back of the belly pan to get it to sit right. (removed about 1/8 from the back edge alltogether to get it to fit. I ended up making another former to support the shape. Works Great now.

I've installed a Webra 1.20 with Bisson Muffler....Can't wait. I'm putting my new 9C Radio in it.

AIVIA

My Feedback: (5)

Mark07,
If the model flies anything like the RealFlight G2 sim version, 7/8" should be fine and not too sensitive. The roll rate on the sim version is slightly slower than what I was expecting. If you have Tx supports dual rates, I suggest you program high rates at 7/8" and set your low rates at something like 1/2". Please note, I haven't flown my model yet, so these are just estimates. Can anyone out there with a flying model weigh in, please?

Lurkers,
My belly pan fits perfectly. No trimming required.
I've installed a YS120AC with a Slimline Pitts Style muffler and extension kit. Pictures to be posted soon.

vettedriver

Just lower the elevator throw an 1/8 all the other throws are fine, the elevator becomes sensitive on landing and the plane likes to balloon up just before touchdown the reduced throw will help to eleminate this some.

SLINGSHOT-RCU

Hears a pic of mine with ys140dz great setup...

wagas

Webra 1.20
Zinger Pro 16x8
Standard 3004 servo's all around

Well It flies great...Love it. Only thing I don't care for is landing...My first landing the wheel pant (looks like) caught a weed on one side and flipped it upside down. Busted ALL four ply tabs that hold the cowl to the firewall. It cracked the wheel pant that got caught but the COWL was untouched. I LIKE BALSA so much better. This is my first ALL fiberglass FUSE. Now I'm paranoid that I will some how keep flipping it on landing.....Besides I've been there done that, now I can say I've flown a GEE BEE. It's going for sale! GREAT flying airplane though..

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

These planes are SOB to land well. Ironically, my first landing was by far the best. I can't get a decent landing at all now. The problem is getting it slow enough not to bounce. This thing will fly really, really slow without snapping. The elevator does get more sensitive as the plane slows down..weird trait. It is hard to get that perfect sink rate. Too little power and you are sinking short of the field, too much power and it is just plain NOT gonna settle down. Until it gets slow enough, just breathing on the elevator causes the dreaded PIO, pilot induced osciallation. This thing is SOOOOO easy to take off and fly, but damn the landings!! haha
Mine is just a fuzz nose heavy( I am talking a VERY tiny bit here), and I think that is why mine is a bit more difficult to land.

Vulture33

Jeff,

Mine has the PIO tendency, yet it is a tad bit tail heavy... I think it is the design. My best landing was dead stick... a scary feeling! I just added robo struts and will fly it this weekend. I added a RAM on board ignition system too... hope this helps with the idle. I am hoping to idle slower than what I have it set to now to ease the landing issue. I think my prop is pushing too much air with too much speed to slow down enough to plant the tail... it wants to keep flying. I put a larger prop with less pitch too.

We'll see how it goes. I am hoping to add some video of the landings to my site once posted.

John

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

I am going to try a different prop as well. Once I finally figure out the landings, I will put my wheel pants on. I have a 1.60 twin on mine, and getting a super low idle is tough as of yet since the motor on has about a gallon through it. It keeps dropping a cylinder when it is idled too low. The thought of shooting a missed approach on one cylinder is not my idea of fun.

Todds Models

I flew my Gee Bee for the first time this weekend and it didn't fly nearly as bad as my Byron version. For landing speed and flying all the way down to the deck is the key. Two point landings and the robart landing gear make it fairly easy. I would hate to do a hard landing with the stock gear, I'm sure it would bounce and tip like the simulator. I am also running the Ram onboard glo driver/starter which gives me a great idle and lessons my chances of dead sticking on final.

I had the belly pan not fitting problems also. The wings also had a bad warp in them so each aileron was deflected about 1/8th inch. Called GP and talked to them so I am getting a new wing kit.

Tried loops, rolls, and knife edge flight and has no real bad tendencies. Slow it down too much and it will stall and drop a wing in a heartbeat that will take a little bit of altitude to recover from. When I put a straight wing on it the stall characteristics should be better.

Todd
toddsmodels.com

Russman

My Feedback: (12)

Here's what using the stock lit ply wing joiner will get you. 4th flight.

Todds Models

ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooouch, not good. I would send GP a nice email with the pictures and let them know. I'll learn from your mistake for sure! Luckily I have my own laser cutter and can cut some fiberglass sheets to stiffen up the spar on my wing. I was worried about the center section too but I hadn't read anything about it. Remember the good old days when we used to put 3" of 2oz. glass cloth all around the center section?

Todd

mvigod

Just posted...RC Universe review on the Great Planes Gee Bee ARF. Build detail, photos, video...

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=351

enjoy folks

jaka

Hi!
Have anyone of you flown the GEE BEE R2 with a 15cc engine.....I have a 15cc MVVS in my GB and are about to fly it in acouple of days.
Weight is 4,8kg.
Regards!
Jan K
Sweden

KC-Lovespeed

My Feedback: (26)

Anyone purchased a vinyl graphics package for the GP Gee Bee. I have not had any luck so far finding a vendor who will make them.

bruce119

My Feedback: (2)

Hi
Tower Hobbies has them here's a link

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDRX2&P=Z
Bruce

capjlp

My Feedback: (37)

Any one thought of a radial an OS or Satio...

Just wondering seen a Gee Bee at Dogs 2004 with a RCS 215 it wasn't a GP arf of course but it did well. I was thinking of trying it on a smaller scale.

Too much power??? isn't that what the throttle is for I over power evey plane I have by some small amount.

I don't think the weight of a glow radial would be too much to ask just wondering if it will fit be hind the cowl I betting it will.

Thanks
Bill

sseward

My Feedback: (1)

I finally worked the nerve to fly the GeeBee today! With the OS FS-120(pump) it had plenty of power, but it certainly doesn't jump off the runway. I was easily able to achieve long takeoff rolls with little or now rudder input. My first flight I was a little tenative because I could tell the wing loading is heavy. Loops and rolls are very smooth and graceful.

Now for the bad news! The first landing was uneventful except once on the ground it rolled much more than I expected and ran into the tall (unmowed) grass at the end. I'll take that anyday. On the second flight, flew 8 minutes and set up what I thought (and others thought so also!) was a great approach. I got the wheels on the ground and it was like the plane hit a ditch, it just stopped, flipped and ended up on it's top.

After much talk around the field, we came to a few conclusions. The landing was a little hot....despite what I've read here the plane can be flared much more than I did on my last approach. I "softened" the springs in the robostruts, and with the hard landing the struts and wheels compressed enough to allow the wheel pants to dig enough to stop the plane (based on the wheel pant damage).

The damage? The right robostrut basically ripped through the wing. I may do a postmortem on the wing, but I'll not repair it. I've already ordered a replacement. The right robostrut is out of alignment, so I'll try and straighten it, and if all else fails I'll send it back to Robart for repair or I'll replace it (I just need the wire mount). The good news...not a scratch on the Fuselage (that I've found yet) other than some dirt on the top of the fin.

So, I"ve ordered a wing kit, wheel pants, and some new decals. The hardest part is that I'll have to remove the original belly pan as a new one only comes with the fuse kit. At least my old one is already fitted.

Anyway, just like's been posted here before....takeoffs are great, flying is great, landings suck!

Steve

jaka

Hi!
I have flown my GP GEE BEE R-2 for 10 times with a MVVS 15cc twostroke engine and performance is rather good,seems to be as good as the Great Planes video with large loops and knife idefinite knife-edge capability.
But I do recommend every one considering this airplane to build it light and not to put a too large (heavy) engine in it.
My weights a little under 5kg and start and flying is easy ...but landings are a bit demanding despite the weight being lower than the recommended weight .
I fly my GEE BEE with a APC 14x6 prop and are using 15% Motul "micro" all synthetic oil and 5% nitro. I will try a 15x6 APC prtop next time, I have reshaped it so it now has less area than before.
I have not noticed any overheating problems whatsoever despite flying the airplane with minimal intake holes.I also use a secondary muffler made by a mousse aluminium bottle to lower the exhaust noice so it now sounds more scale like.
I did some modifications to the elevator and rudder set-up which is now wire controlled, which is both lighter and stiffer than the original balsa linkage set-up.

Regards!
Jan K
Sweden

adolf

With the GP Gee Bee Racer has anyone developed a reliable method of landing this beast? I have the the CG and elevator throw exactly as per plan but it tends to run out of elevator on flair causing a heavy landing and flip. Apart from that it takes off easily and is a delight to fly around. Pity about the landings.

murcielago

I was flying mine with an OS Max 1.20 w/pump and it's still needed a lot of weight. Can't remember exactly how much I put in it, but it was at least 4oz.

rcavi8ter

My Feedback: (19)

I would say I have about 50 flights or so on my GB and I think it has only stayed on its gear 5 times. I refuse to fly it off of pavement because it ends up on its lid so much. I think it is just a fact of the GB that i live with since I enjoy it so much in the air.



Chris

jaka

Hi!
A very important thing to consider is building it light and too practise....doing lots of practise.
Adding weight to this model is not what I would consider...better to shift the radio gear around untill everything balance right (70mm from the leading edge).

Regards!
Jan K
Sweden