raptor racer

Just wanting to know how to place the robostruts through the wheel spat. Thanks.

Craig-RCU

I found the instructions online on the Robart website. Basically you have to disassemble them, mount them on the wing, mount the spats, then reassemble them.

http://www.robart.com/RoboStruts/dra...tions%20BW.pdf

raptor racer

Thanks Craig

Black Drape

Hey Guys

I have this plane put together and am kinda afraid to try and fly it after reading this forum. I have Real Flight G2 and have been flying it there. What I am wondering is how accurate G2 is? Has anyone else tried flying it on G2, and if so is it somewhat accurate? Mine has an OS 120 FS and stock landing gear. Does anyone else have this combination, and what can I expect?

Thanks
Ron

TomCrump

A friend in the UK had a similar setup, only his was powered by a Magnum 1.20. He stated that his Gee Bee flew very well, with no LG problems.

sseward

My Feedback: (1)

Ron,
I flew my GeeBee with a 120FS-III and it was plenty of power. As for Real flight, It doens't prepare you for the landings. This plane will take off and fly around without issued, but it does'nt like a cross wind as the big Fuselage really catches the breeze!

Alas, mine met it's demise at a fun fly this year. I was doing demo flights at lunch with it (most people don't believe it will actually fly!) and right after I took off the wind shifted to 90 degrees off of the runway. Our field isn't forgiving enough with a cross wind and you need to be able to slip in for landings sometimes. It's not easy to siop the GeeBee without tip stalling. Anyway, it wasn't the landing that got me...it was the wires I forgot about when I swung way out to setup for a longer approach!

I'd love to have another one and if they ever discontinue this ARF I'll grab another for the future. Just need a more flexible field to be able to get it on the ground!

Steve

foodstick

I just Thought I would post this for anyone interested. Someone earlier had mentioned putting in a belly flap/air brake for slower landings.... Well I did it, I cut a piece of the belly pan to come down like a flap between the landing gear.. I have it rigged up on the variable position wheel so you can basically slowly roll it down on the transmitter. I asked my friend "well, should I try it? " He said "go up a bit higher first" I climbed up to about 250 feet, started rolling it in and the belly pan flap switch can also be called the SNAP ROLL TO DEATHSPIN SWITCH !!!!! the plane had been rock solid, but it got ugly fast... I let it fall maybe 50 feet (pulling the flap back up) the spin continued, started feeding left aileron and rudder it stopped spinning at about 150 feet, I let it keep dropping gaining speed then pulled out at about 30-40 feet with no problems.. I was a little nervous because we had seen a 1/2 scale GEEBEE R2 go in at Owatonna about 2 weeks earlier under almost identical conditions (other than the belly flap).

My flap is bowed like the plane belly, not flat, so that may be the entire problem, that extra lift is not even and stable coming off the shape of the pan, we considered all that ahead of time ..but what the heck..sometimes its fun to experiment!

My wheel pants were to long and the thing absolutely wouldn't roll in the grass, so I knew I had to land on the petrolmat, unfortunately I had no idea that the plane was so tricky in a slight crosswind, after 2 go arounds I accidently got slow and landed on the grass resulting in the typical nose over, no real damage couple ripped out holes on one wheel pant mainly.

I have a converted 25cc weedeater in the plane with a 16-8 prop, all the radio gear back to balance..honestly it came in very solid and predictable,I couldn't believe how slow it would come in with that big chunk of motor out there. I just kept drifting off the runway. I had this feeling on my landings if I used anymore rudder than I was it might snap ,who knows?

I think it will be managable with my now trimmed wheel pants, and watching the wind direction a little closer. I did also notice I might have a tad bit to much down thrust as when I throttled up to go around the plane would lose a bout 12-18 inches of altitude before climbing out..

I had some problems with another plane this fall and ended up getting sidetracked and haven't flown the GEE BEE again this year, I need to get it out again before winter.

I forgot to add the first thing I did to my plane was make access panels above the landing gear so I could beef up the wood structure, its not very well done in my opinion, a few people mentioned it before , so I did it before i needed too..

Balsinator

Be afraid my friend. I love this model and have cartwheeled her many times. The stock landing gear sucks and relies on the spats to hold it in place. That is why you glue the wooden side panels inside them. Unfortunatly they aren't strong enough. I ended up fabricating my own gear with suspention using very small aircraft tubing. Even with my custom gear it is still very difficult to land. The problem lies in the bounce. Unless you grease it on you will bounce the airplane and due to the arrangement of the gear it will cause your angle of attack to increase dramatically. At that point the airplane pitches up and runs out of steam and lift, usually dropping a wing and doing the famous cart wheel. The key to survival with this model is to "GO AROUND!" on the first bounce, don't try and save it. Full power with a little right rudder, take her around and try again. I have an OS 120 also which is perfect for this model although 100 ccs would be nice at that moment of go around. I recommend finding an area to fly with plenty of room. I started out on a dry lakebed. I am going to try and replace the factory foam wheels with some softer Sullivans or something. Anything to cut down the bounce. Stick with it though. The model is a real crowd pleaser. Good luck

foodstick

I also wrapped the outer tread area with electrical tape. when you compress the wheel up in the wheelpants like a rough landing the foam wheels grab like brakes, but with the tape it slides along the inside of the pants...so hopefully it will help. I know on some small electrics the tape on foam wheels makes a HUGE improvement on handling on the petrolmat runway.

I know the geebee is a problem child on landings, but it was ON THE LIST of planes that must be flown...I never planned on it hanging around forever !

Black Drape

Thanks Guys

Thanks for all of the replys. I was afraid G2 might not be very realistic. I might wait till spring to maiden it. I have it all put together but have not C Ged it yet, so I have an excuse for not flying it. I will keep reading this thread so if any one comes up with a miracle cure for the landing let us know.

Thanks again
Ron

YogoBlue

My Feedback: (17)

Just maidened mine for the first time this weekend. As usual flys like a dream, lateral balance is important as the first flight she wanted to tip to the right a bit. After having 5 flights on it I have learned to just stall it as close to the ground as you can. Every landing of mine was the same about 6 in to a foot up and it drops like a rock on a 3 point. Seems to work for me the best. We have an asphault runway so that helps.

When making your approach, make sure your on your line, with mine the rudder will only tip the wings and not move the line of travel much. I can see disaster there as people have said with a bit of crosswind... FORGET IT.

It does slow down quick though so that helps for stall landings. I run an OS 120 AX and she is pretty darn quick. Other than that I love the plane. Very quirky and what a senior member of the field who flew her alone comments. SHES A MANS PLANE!!

ah64

I just got my GP GEE BEE in today and your all scaring me with the Landing part.. maybe I should skip the landing gear assembaly and just belly land it. LOL
No turning back now unless I use it as a fancy foot rest.. I just need to fly it and see.

Balsinator

I managed to cartwheel my beast last week on landing. I let it touch down at a pretty good distance away as it was coming at me. When it bounced I had a hard time getting control of it and seeing what was going on. I would recommend that you plan your landings so the plane touches down in front of you where you have a good view of what is going on. It also helps if it is going away from you if you need to go around since you are less likely to make the wrong control input. One other thing. Try to keep the plane straight during roll out. If you let it turn while it is still rolling fast it will hurt the gear when you side load it. If you don't think you have enough room find a bigger field.
I have an OS 120 two stroke in mine which goes through the gas. Make sure you have an ample fuel reserve when you start trying to land. You may need several tries before you get it on the ground. Good luck.

ah64

Will take the advice on the landing it when its flying away from you part. My luck this thing would cart wheel right at me and hit my in the Family Jewels... I have such crappy luck... My wife keeps telling me I have more money than brains I should learn by know that I caint swim and I caint fly find another hobby. ( I do boats and planes)

kochj

You and I must be related????

I though I was the only one with the Worste luck when it came to flying planes??/ I know ow to fly very well... But My busted planes tell a different story!

ah64

I knew I couldnt be the only one at least we are honest enough to say it !!! It happens with airplanes alot with me. I can fly Heli's no 3d stuff but I am good enough to get them in the air fly around and land with out breaking anything... there are times when it happens, but with planes there is a good chance it will be something breaking when coming back for a landing.... Maybe I should stay with Heli's and stop confusing my self with the different flying techniques required with fixed wing and rotor.... I don't know.

kochj

Blasinator:

I am suprised that the Tricycle gear conversion did'nt make it a winner!?????
So.... It helps the cartwheeling, but not the tipstall bouncy landings???/


Foodstick:
Thank you very much for your detailed account of your findings..... But, Holly Molly bat man! I didn't think that would happen!!

Perhaps it is due to the shape (curved) or that it doesn't have the holes drilled in it like the Trojan???
This plane has a flap in the middle but has holes in it....
I though it was due to the short fuse length but the Trojan is a short nosed as well...
It sounds like the air-brake is working TOOOO well! Stoping it in its tracks???
Being you went this far, why not try drilling some large holes in it and try again???/
Just don't crash it!! (I would have to clean my shorts after that event)

kochj

One last thing..................

I have a very possible easy fix that would not take but 10 minutes to try.....
Place some Training Droops on the leading edge of the wings!!!

Guys have had wonderfull results with these on there H9 Showtime!.....
Clear, and probly wouldn't even see them! I bet it would help the landings HUGELY!!!
It is worth a try!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=HAN2835

foodstick

I am not sure if I will try any modifications to the belly brake at this point. Honestly with that 16- 8 prop up there it works like a drag chute. The plane came in VERY slow and stable I was amazed.. I wish I had the right wind direction the first day as I just couldn't keep from drifting off the runway . And like I said earlier, I ended up accidently landing when the downthrust pulled me down in the grass when I had throttled up to go around again...

kochj

I don't have this plane but want one in the future,,,, I would really like to know ahead of time what to do to make this plane a better plane....

This is reason for my posts... or suggestions anyway....
I hope I don't affend anyone???

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

If you look closely at the outer edge of the ailerons, you will see it gets progressively thicker on the top portion. This is a rather crude attempt to create washout at the tip of the wing. Washout forces the center of the wing to stall first, allowing a controlled and level descent of the aircraft as the tips of the wing contine to generate lift while the stalled, center section of the wing causes descent. Before you attach the ailerons, maually add true washout by bending each tip upwards and using a hot ar gun, shrink out the resulting wrinkles. Do both sides!!! The amount is usually 1/4 to 3/8ths per panel. Sight along the trailing edge to assure your efforts are uniform.

I learned this when I was real young and flew free-flight. My Gee Bee had an incident-free maiden flight. Standard servos, reccomended balance point, using a SuperTiger 2300, it required no balance weights. The servos were mounted at the center section of the fuselage. The ST 2300 is only a few cc's larger than the optional 1.2 fourstroke. I used a 16x6 prop. Tried a 16x8 on the second flight and the landing was more difficult. The aerobraking of the lower pitched prop was helpful.

opjose

Don't you mean DOWNWARD not Upward?

Bending the tip down, helps eliminate tip stalling as the outer parts of the wing will not be stalled as early as the inner part of the wing.

This is why LE droops are used on trainers.

Upward would exacerbate tip stalls.

You want the tip AOA more in line with the direction of travel not less, if I'm not mistaken?

Balsinator

I was wondering about that as well. It sounds like bending the tips up would add to the dihedral which could help stability. I am on my second repair since I put my custom gear on. More practice would no doubt help but it could take a while at the rate I am going now. I am lucky to get three landings per crash.
I am starting to think a ballistic chute might be the way to go. I know from flying large airplanes that angle of attack is less in the outboard portions of the wings to allow for continued control of the aircraft at the onset of a stall. However if you hold the airplane in the stall long enough to reach a full stall one wing or the other will invariably drop depending on how coordinated the controls are.



This morning I googled washout and camber and a couple other terms and got educated. A bit confusing but found several good articles about this subject some here in RC Un.
Here is one of them. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24323

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Just to clarify, you want the tailing edge of the tip higher than the leading edge. I may not have explained it as well as I should have. This allows the outer portion of the wing to have a lower angle-of-attack than the inner portion. This process delays tip stall and the resulting snap roll near the ground.

Sorry I wasn't clear in the earlier piece.

Balsinator

No problem, your post got me to do a little extra reading this morning and now I have a better understanding of how this stuff works. I checked my Gee Bee this morning and found the wing was quite stiff even at the tip. Did you have to apply a lot of force to get it to twist? My model has had several patches added to the wing and I have tightened up the covering a couple of times already so maybe that is why it is so stiff.