dynoman024

I just mounted the VVRC 40 and when I slide the cowl on it barely clears the carberator intake. I cut the excess fiber glass out and there is a little clearance but did any one else have the concearn that the air flow may be a little limiting? The PR Bushwheels look RAD on this thing. Thanks to the guys that have put in the effort here. ANY advice would be appreciated.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Like I said in the PM I sent you, we have done 4 of these now to VV40s, there's no airflow issue to the carb.

I baffled the heads with foam board (black so it mixes in) from Michael's Craft store, but other than that, no problem

althepal88

My Feedback: (31)

The VVRC 40cc engine has been perfect for me. It hand starts fairly easy once you get the routine down (prop it with the choke closed and throttle open wide till it pops, open choke close throttle all the way, then open slightly, start flipping the prop).

althepal88

My Feedback: (31)

I used shortned toilet paper rolls and coated them with 20 min epoxy for baffles. I cut out the fake aircleaner (the blue piece) and have a direct air intake to my carb. I took an old servo horn and attached it to the choke arm so that I could operate the choke from the bottom rear of the cowl with a simple 2/56 wire.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Yea, I ran a choke rod out the back of the cowl. I cut away the black square part and put a screen there but left the bulbous oil cooler in place. There's fiberglass that needs to get removed from that trough where the oil cooler is but there's plenty of air getting to the motor.

I flew it w/o baffles for a while but my buddy has one on a Jeti with telemetry from both cylinders and after I saw the before and after telemetry dumps I made up the baffles.

APLANEGUY

I wished they had mentioned that up front too. I ended up using a Futaba reverser on one elevator servo 'cause the Futaba servos I had would be very tough (maybe impossible) to rewire. Lots of guys use Hitech servos and say they're simple to open up and rewire/reverse. I saw a couple pictures online of guys who reworked the servo tray and pushrod tubes so they could just mount two servos running in parallel turning the same direction. I wanted to do that but my big old hands were too tight of a fit in the fuselage to do it and make it look nice so I opted for the reverser. Seems like it would have been a simple matter to design the plane that way in the first place. In the end I love the plane and don't really think about it's shortcomings at all any more...

althepal88

My Feedback: (31)

I might use a splitter on the flaps and ailerons to use a six channel radio, but I would never get into a servo and rewire it. I will never run a reverser again, they are subject to failure and that would cost you an airplane (don't ask). You must be using an old transmitter if you don't have servo reversing capability. How about upgrading your radio to a newer 7 or 8 channel Tx so you can reverse your servos from the transmitter? Best thing to do is each servo has it's own channel.

Jeepindog

I didn't use a splitter on my elevator servos. I'll have to see how I hooked up the linkage.

dynoman024

Thanks Guys! Sorry Barracuda, the pm didn't get to me till after I had posted... This gem is gonna be my favorite of the 7 Super/Carbon Cubs I have. Much more scale than the old H9 1/4 scale SC i have of theirs from 10+ years ago. I had read somewhere that a guy was having issues with his ignition when running it from the same power source as his nav light board... Anyone else have that issue? The "scale disease" is causing this build to take longer than expected for sure!

dynoman024

A few of my build photos so far... And the green machine hitting the mountain west for EMS support!

cubcrasher

My Feedback: (6)

Hey guys.
Got one of these bad boys for sale. Check out my add in the scale section.
Come and get it.

RC_AVIGATOR

My Feedback: (1)

Any ideas on attaching the original covers over the 1/4 scale PR custom shocks?

althepal88

My Feedback: (31)

I painted my struts to match; left the cylinders aluminum right now. I've heard some silicone the aero covers in place. I don't know if they would stay, maybe. You could make a "sock" to cover like the old J-3.

dkurtzid

any photos of the baffles?

​​​​​​​Don

conte.vlad

Hi. I built the Super Cub 1/4 by Hangar9, (engine 33cc Evo) with some accessory: PRBush Tyre, detailed interior, light system by Braincube, Pilot which move arms and head, and I arrive at a weight before balancing for the CG at Lbs 20,15.
What is the weight of your model?
The CG is correct (with the PrBush wheels) at 102/121 mm ? or with the major size of the tyre it must be a little rear?
Thankyou

hairy46

My Feedback: (1)

I have seen the green machine in my airport many times in Rawlins or at least same company , next time you come over we will talk RC airplanes, i'm a addict 168 so far.

althepal88

My Feedback: (31)

The tyre size has no relationship to the cg. The large tyres will contribute to ground looping if you drop your tail wheel while carrying to much airspeed. Same with take off, get the tail up and use the rudder. Have fun!

conte.vlad

I had this doubt because I had read that with the floats it was better to set the CG slightly backward.

conte.vlad

The biggest doubt I have is that with PRBush's wheels and shock absorbers, plus the larger cabin finishes, the moving rider and the aluminum body led I have exceeded the weight they indicate in the instructions that should be 18.5 Lbs, I arrive at 20.15

tigermeet

I have the PR Bushwheels and my AUW is 20.25# and my CG is at 4.25" (110 mm) and she flies and handles beautifully.

You might want to consider reinforcing the landing gear mounts. I and a few others have had the landing gear come apart with just a few normal landings. All it consists of is two pieces (one in the front, one rear) of 3/8 x 3/4 ply that the gear mounts to. These pieces are sandwiched between two pieces of 1/8 lite ply and it only covers the thickness of the mount (3/8") nothing ties these parts to the floor. They do tie into the sidewall, which is 1/8 ply, using a slot and tab system. When mine broke, none of the wood broke, everything came apart at the joints. They used either hot glue or cheap epoxy for the glue as none of the glue soaked into the wood.

conte.vlad

Thank you so much!
Your words are of great comfort !!!
I will follow your suggestion to reinforce the landing gear attacks.

Jeepindog

I just swapped out the stock ASP carbeurater from my 1.60 four stroke twin glow engine with a brand new one from an OS 1.60 twin. I had to do a little redesign/manufacturing to get the pieces to work, but it runs. I have to work on the throttle now so that runs better, but at least it runs. I hope I can get it to meter the fuel/air mixture properly so that I can fly this airplane again. It hasn’t flown in 15 months! Wish me luck, or send me a free VVRC 40cc twin. (Both options will require enormous amounts of luck!)

TomCrump

When I had problems with the carb on mine, I just swapped out the spray bar and needle valve, using parts from the OS 1.60 twin. Solved my issues.

althepal88

My Feedback: (31)

My gear mounts came apart, too. I reinforced the area with some hardwood and epoxy. My Cub is a pig at 21 lbs.

PropsnWings

My Feedback: (9)