Great Planes Super Stearman
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Great Planes Super Stearman
I have a super stearman that is one beautiful plane, however, I had a friend of mine , who by the way is the best flyer I know, maiden it for me yesterday. It is a real bear to take off. Really pull left badly and bounces hard on landing no matter how you bring it in. I have a DLE 30 on it which seems to be a good pic for it. Trying to decide whether to keep it or not. Opinions and suggestions please.... By the way it flies wonderful, it is just the takeoff and landings.
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RE: Great Planes Super Stearman
I fly my Great Planes Super Stearman with a Saito FA-125. It flies beautifully! Great plane. I use a Futaba R617FS rx and a Futaba 10-CAG tx. A Saito FA-100 was on previously, but that was a bit sluggish.
#4
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RE: Great Planes Super Stearman
try standing behind on takeoffs until you figure out what it needs to correct it, mine I actully found getting the tail up and staying off the rudder is best, make it lighter move battery forward loose some nose wieght if possible, what I mean is it will land better the lighter the plane is, just my 2 cents worth.
#6
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RE: Great Planes Super Stearman
Never had a problem with mine, using a 160FX for power. I did change the wheels to Dubro lights, maybe the tires make some difference. It is a short coupled plane with a big motor on it. It will need copious amounts or right rudder on takeoff just like a real one.
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RE: Great Planes Super Stearman
The 30 is a great engine for that plane. I have that combo and with added smoke makes for a perfect platform.
You need to check the incidence of the wings. With stab at 0 the wings should be 0. Some have found the top wing to have as much as 4 degrees of + incidence. With mine I found out my top wing had about 2 degrees positive incidence. You want the forward wing to stall last and on the GP SS that's the top wing. Mine needed to land fast and it was a real adventure every landing. I added washers to the back row of screws on my top wing and it made a world of difference.
If your using the stock tailwheel that could be your ground handing issues. Mine was tough to tame until I changed to a stiffer tail wheel setup including changing the wheel itself. My stock wheel had really soft rubber and bent over easily causing for bad ground handling.
With smoke in mine it comes out to almost 16 pounds. The PT17 tends to come out about a pound lighter and the GP Waco's even lighter. Stick to the 30.
Ask yourself, when your landing and your engine is at idle, would an extra 7 ounces suddenly make your ship land like a dream come true. Cause that would be the only difference in going with the 20cc.
You need to check the incidence of the wings. With stab at 0 the wings should be 0. Some have found the top wing to have as much as 4 degrees of + incidence. With mine I found out my top wing had about 2 degrees positive incidence. You want the forward wing to stall last and on the GP SS that's the top wing. Mine needed to land fast and it was a real adventure every landing. I added washers to the back row of screws on my top wing and it made a world of difference.
If your using the stock tailwheel that could be your ground handing issues. Mine was tough to tame until I changed to a stiffer tail wheel setup including changing the wheel itself. My stock wheel had really soft rubber and bent over easily causing for bad ground handling.
With smoke in mine it comes out to almost 16 pounds. The PT17 tends to come out about a pound lighter and the GP Waco's even lighter. Stick to the 30.
Ask yourself, when your landing and your engine is at idle, would an extra 7 ounces suddenly make your ship land like a dream come true. Cause that would be the only difference in going with the 20cc.
#8
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RE: Great Planes Super Stearman
I have one as well and its powered by an OS 160FX also.
This is a procedures plane to take off and to land in order to make it go smoothly. I have the stock wheels both mains and tail and have not modified it from stock in any way.
Take Off
This is how I do it and mine tracks great.
From a low idle add power + hold full up elevator and begin to roll. Bring the stick to neutral as the plane builds up speed and lifts the tail. By this time the stick is neutral and transitioning back to up elevator. So its UP-NEUTRAL-UP. The reason for this is to have as much tail wheel grip and authority as possible until the tail has enough wind speed to have authority and the wings begin to fly. This part takes an element of timing but it is very effective and much like how you would fly a full scale tail dragger. Do not hold up elevator too long because the plane will take off too soon and possibly stall and crash on take off. Depending on the situation this can happen and you may not save it in time.
The plane takes off with some right rudder input and lifts off smoothly every time for me. I have max throws on every surface and no expo or dual rates.
Most guys will just stab the power and take off in 2 feet but if you want to make a nice scale like take off this is how I do it.
Landings
The Stearman has a lot of lift being a biplane so depending on the days wind conditions I set the landing approach power accordingly. I make my down wind run and bring the power back and bleed off speed to load the plane on power. This means my approach altitude is not way up high to dive bomb the runway. I make the turn at somewhere about 40ft altitude and hold this as I make the turn at my landmark tree at 45 degrees or so to me. I want the plane to be above stall speed but the engine is at quarter throttle or so and not speeding up. As the plane lines up on the runway Im backing off power slowly to maintain speed on decent. Over the runway or just a moment before Im at idle and slowly pulling up elevator letting it sink and ready to flare and further slow down. The Stearman has a gentle stall character so dont be affraid of higher alfa flight. The plane is at or below eye level at this point above the end of the runway. My clubs runway is about 480ft so when I stand at the center and do my approach correctly the Stearman will land and roll out by the time it gets to me at 240ft. If Im high at the end of the runway then I go past my station accordingly. Same thing if Im too fast which is easy to do on a calm day.
Basically the slower you can touch down with a higher angle of attack the smoother the landing will be. Come in flat and fast and it will bounce right back up 5 or 6 feet. You can add a little power as you pull up elevator just before touching down, not a lot of power though. Its enough to load the plane and have the engine ready to come up quickly to avoid a problem if needed. You come back to idle right away if the landing is good. As soon as the plane settles you have to add up elevator to gain tail ground control during the roll out. This helps slow you down as well while the engine is at idle.
Also use the rudder as much as possible because its very effective on the Stearman while keeping the wing level at all times with aileron, I know its pretty obvious but many dont use rudder enough.
Grass landing is easier than paved runways for sure. Do not touch down tail first because this can hurt the servo and cause a tip over to a wing tip with a possible cartwheel.
This how I do it with mine and its an awesome plane to fly and barnstorm with. The guys in the club love watching me wring it out.
This is a procedures plane to take off and to land in order to make it go smoothly. I have the stock wheels both mains and tail and have not modified it from stock in any way.
Take Off
This is how I do it and mine tracks great.
From a low idle add power + hold full up elevator and begin to roll. Bring the stick to neutral as the plane builds up speed and lifts the tail. By this time the stick is neutral and transitioning back to up elevator. So its UP-NEUTRAL-UP. The reason for this is to have as much tail wheel grip and authority as possible until the tail has enough wind speed to have authority and the wings begin to fly. This part takes an element of timing but it is very effective and much like how you would fly a full scale tail dragger. Do not hold up elevator too long because the plane will take off too soon and possibly stall and crash on take off. Depending on the situation this can happen and you may not save it in time.
The plane takes off with some right rudder input and lifts off smoothly every time for me. I have max throws on every surface and no expo or dual rates.
Most guys will just stab the power and take off in 2 feet but if you want to make a nice scale like take off this is how I do it.
Landings
The Stearman has a lot of lift being a biplane so depending on the days wind conditions I set the landing approach power accordingly. I make my down wind run and bring the power back and bleed off speed to load the plane on power. This means my approach altitude is not way up high to dive bomb the runway. I make the turn at somewhere about 40ft altitude and hold this as I make the turn at my landmark tree at 45 degrees or so to me. I want the plane to be above stall speed but the engine is at quarter throttle or so and not speeding up. As the plane lines up on the runway Im backing off power slowly to maintain speed on decent. Over the runway or just a moment before Im at idle and slowly pulling up elevator letting it sink and ready to flare and further slow down. The Stearman has a gentle stall character so dont be affraid of higher alfa flight. The plane is at or below eye level at this point above the end of the runway. My clubs runway is about 480ft so when I stand at the center and do my approach correctly the Stearman will land and roll out by the time it gets to me at 240ft. If Im high at the end of the runway then I go past my station accordingly. Same thing if Im too fast which is easy to do on a calm day.
Basically the slower you can touch down with a higher angle of attack the smoother the landing will be. Come in flat and fast and it will bounce right back up 5 or 6 feet. You can add a little power as you pull up elevator just before touching down, not a lot of power though. Its enough to load the plane and have the engine ready to come up quickly to avoid a problem if needed. You come back to idle right away if the landing is good. As soon as the plane settles you have to add up elevator to gain tail ground control during the roll out. This helps slow you down as well while the engine is at idle.
Also use the rudder as much as possible because its very effective on the Stearman while keeping the wing level at all times with aileron, I know its pretty obvious but many dont use rudder enough.
Grass landing is easier than paved runways for sure. Do not touch down tail first because this can hurt the servo and cause a tip over to a wing tip with a possible cartwheel.
This how I do it with mine and its an awesome plane to fly and barnstorm with. The guys in the club love watching me wring it out.
#11
RE: Great Planes Super Stearman
All of the above. I have the pt17 and use the DLE20. pleanty of power for scale like flying. I'm at 14 lbs with a smoke system and I replaced the stock tail wheel with a heavy duty Sullivan unit mounted in more of a scale location. Slow throttle up to full, right rudder and managed elevator. Takes off like the real thing and lands the same. I have not checked the wing incidence but it might be a good idea, because it climbs pretty fast on full throttle. That 30 has tons of power and if you puch it on take off you will do doughnuts on the ground.
#13
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RE: Great Planes Super Stearman
ORIGINAL: Chris Nicastro
I have one as well and its powered by an OS 160FX also.
This is a procedures plane to take off and to land in order to make it go smoothly. I have the stock wheels both mains and tail and have not modified it from stock in any way.
Take Off
This is how I do it and mine tracks great.
From a low idle add power + hold full up elevator and begin to roll. Bring the stick to neutral as the plane builds up speed and lifts the tail. By this time the stick is neutral and transitioning back to up elevator. So its UP-NEUTRAL-UP. The reason for this is to have as much tail wheel grip and authority as possible until the tail has enough wind speed to have authority and the wings begin to fly. This part takes an element of timing but it is very effective and much like how you would fly a full scale tail dragger. Do not hold up elevator too long because the plane will take off too soon and possibly stall and crash on take off. Depending on the situation this can happen and you may not save it in time.
The plane takes off with some right rudder input and lifts off smoothly every time for me. I have max throws on every surface and no expo or dual rates.
Most guys will just stab the power and take off in 2 feet but if you want to make a nice scale like take off this is how I do it.
Landings
The Stearman has a lot of lift being a biplane so depending on the days wind conditions I set the landing approach power accordingly. I make my down wind run and bring the power back and bleed off speed to load the plane on power. This means my approach altitude is not way up high to dive bomb the runway. I make the turn at somewhere about 40ft altitude and hold this as I make the turn at my landmark tree at 45 degrees or so to me. I want the plane to be above stall speed but the engine is at quarter throttle or so and not speeding up. As the plane lines up on the runway Im backing off power slowly to maintain speed on decent. Over the runway or just a moment before Im at idle and slowly pulling up elevator letting it sink and ready to flare and further slow down. The Stearman has a gentle stall character so dont be affraid of higher alfa flight. The plane is at or below eye level at this point above the end of the runway. My clubs runway is about 480ft so when I stand at the center and do my approach correctly the Stearman will land and roll out by the time it gets to me at 240ft. If Im high at the end of the runway then I go past my station accordingly. Same thing if Im too fast which is easy to do on a calm day.
Basically the slower you can touch down with a higher angle of attack the smoother the landing will be. Come in flat and fast and it will bounce right back up 5 or 6 feet. You can add a little power as you pull up elevator just before touching down, not a lot of power though. Its enough to load the plane and have the engine ready to come up quickly to avoid a problem if needed. You come back to idle right away if the landing is good. As soon as the plane settles you have to add up elevator to gain tail ground control during the roll out. This helps slow you down as well while the engine is at idle.
Also use the rudder as much as possible because its very effective on the Stearman while keeping the wing level at all times with aileron, I know its pretty obvious but many dont use rudder enough.
Grass landing is easier than paved runways for sure. Do not touch down tail first because this can hurt the servo and cause a tip over to a wing tip with a possible cartwheel.
This how I do it with mine and its an awesome plane to fly and barnstorm with. The guys in the club love watching me wring it out.
I have one as well and its powered by an OS 160FX also.
This is a procedures plane to take off and to land in order to make it go smoothly. I have the stock wheels both mains and tail and have not modified it from stock in any way.
Take Off
This is how I do it and mine tracks great.
From a low idle add power + hold full up elevator and begin to roll. Bring the stick to neutral as the plane builds up speed and lifts the tail. By this time the stick is neutral and transitioning back to up elevator. So its UP-NEUTRAL-UP. The reason for this is to have as much tail wheel grip and authority as possible until the tail has enough wind speed to have authority and the wings begin to fly. This part takes an element of timing but it is very effective and much like how you would fly a full scale tail dragger. Do not hold up elevator too long because the plane will take off too soon and possibly stall and crash on take off. Depending on the situation this can happen and you may not save it in time.
The plane takes off with some right rudder input and lifts off smoothly every time for me. I have max throws on every surface and no expo or dual rates.
Most guys will just stab the power and take off in 2 feet but if you want to make a nice scale like take off this is how I do it.
Landings
The Stearman has a lot of lift being a biplane so depending on the days wind conditions I set the landing approach power accordingly. I make my down wind run and bring the power back and bleed off speed to load the plane on power. This means my approach altitude is not way up high to dive bomb the runway. I make the turn at somewhere about 40ft altitude and hold this as I make the turn at my landmark tree at 45 degrees or so to me. I want the plane to be above stall speed but the engine is at quarter throttle or so and not speeding up. As the plane lines up on the runway Im backing off power slowly to maintain speed on decent. Over the runway or just a moment before Im at idle and slowly pulling up elevator letting it sink and ready to flare and further slow down. The Stearman has a gentle stall character so dont be affraid of higher alfa flight. The plane is at or below eye level at this point above the end of the runway. My clubs runway is about 480ft so when I stand at the center and do my approach correctly the Stearman will land and roll out by the time it gets to me at 240ft. If Im high at the end of the runway then I go past my station accordingly. Same thing if Im too fast which is easy to do on a calm day.
Basically the slower you can touch down with a higher angle of attack the smoother the landing will be. Come in flat and fast and it will bounce right back up 5 or 6 feet. You can add a little power as you pull up elevator just before touching down, not a lot of power though. Its enough to load the plane and have the engine ready to come up quickly to avoid a problem if needed. You come back to idle right away if the landing is good. As soon as the plane settles you have to add up elevator to gain tail ground control during the roll out. This helps slow you down as well while the engine is at idle.
Also use the rudder as much as possible because its very effective on the Stearman while keeping the wing level at all times with aileron, I know its pretty obvious but many dont use rudder enough.
Grass landing is easier than paved runways for sure. Do not touch down tail first because this can hurt the servo and cause a tip over to a wing tip with a possible cartwheel.
This how I do it with mine and its an awesome plane to fly and barnstorm with. The guys in the club love watching me wring it out.
#15
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RE: Great Planes Super Stearman
This is a good description of how it's done.(Some guys have a hard time with getting what they do into words).I do think a few thingscould be added.Releasing the elevator on tackoff is important if you wantit to track straight. Releaseonce it rolls faster thanwalking speed. Then easeit up once it is moving allong with the tail up. The 30is a big motorwhich exagerates the tendancyto change direction due to torquefrom the prop.For landing the correct prop is important. Too much pitch will result intoo much airspeed and adifficult landing. You will know because it will float along and then bounceonce it doestouch. It will appearas thoug it wants to keepflying.The desing was not made for speed likemany warbirds. Once you get theground handling downthey are great fliers.
Good luck and have fun.
Carl
Good luck and have fun.
Carl
ORIGINAL: Chris Nicastro
I have one as well and its powered by an OS 160FX also.
This is a procedures plane to take off and to land in order to make it go smoothly. I have the stock wheels both mains and tail and have not modified it from stock in any way.
Take Off
This is how I do it and mine tracks great.
From a low idle add power + hold full up elevator and begin to roll. Bring the stick to neutral as the plane builds up speed and lifts the tail. By this time the stick is neutral and transitioning back to up elevator. So its UP-NEUTRAL-UP. The reason for this is to have as much tail wheel grip and authority as possible until the tail has enough wind speed to have authority and the wings begin to fly. This part takes an element of timing but it is very effective and much like how you would fly a full scale tail dragger. Do not hold up elevator too long because the plane will take off too soon and possibly stall and crash on take off. Depending on the situation this can happen and you may not save it in time.
The plane takes off with some right rudder input and lifts off smoothly every time for me. I have max throws on every surface and no expo or dual rates.
Most guys will just stab the power and take off in 2 feet but if you want to make a nice scale like take off this is how I do it.
Landings
The Stearman has a lot of lift being a biplane so depending on the days wind conditions I set the landing approach power accordingly. I make my down wind run and bring the power back and bleed off speed to load the plane on power. This means my approach altitude is not way up high to dive bomb the runway. I make the turn at somewhere about 40ft altitude and hold this as I make the turn at my landmark tree at 45 degrees or so to me. I want the plane to be above stall speed but the engine is at quarter throttle or so and not speeding up. As the plane lines up on the runway Im backing off power slowly to maintain speed on decent. Over the runway or just a moment before Im at idle and slowly pulling up elevator letting it sink and ready to flare and further slow down. The Stearman has a gentle stall character so dont be affraid of higher alfa flight. The plane is at or below eye level at this point above the end of the runway. My clubs runway is about 480ft so when I stand at the center and do my approach correctly the Stearman will land and roll out by the time it gets to me at 240ft. If Im high at the end of the runway then I go past my station accordingly. Same thing if Im too fast which is easy to do on a calm day.
Basically the slower you can touch down with a higher angle of attack the smoother the landing will be. Come in flat and fast and it will bounce right back up 5 or 6 feet. You can add a little power as you pull up elevator just before touching down, not a lot of power though. Its enough to load the plane and have the engine ready to come up quickly to avoid a problem if needed. You come back to idle right away if the landing is good. As soon as the plane settles you have to add up elevator to gain tail ground control during the roll out. This helps slow you down as well while the engine is at idle.
Also use the rudder as much as possible because its very effective on the Stearman while keeping the wing level at all times with aileron, I know its pretty obvious but many dont use rudder enough.
Grass landing is easier than paved runways for sure. Do not touch down tail first because this can hurt the servo and cause a tip over to a wing tip with a possible cartwheel.
This how I do it with mine and its an awesome plane to fly and barnstorm with. The guys in the club love watching me wring it out.
I have one as well and its powered by an OS 160FX also.
This is a procedures plane to take off and to land in order to make it go smoothly. I have the stock wheels both mains and tail and have not modified it from stock in any way.
Take Off
This is how I do it and mine tracks great.
From a low idle add power + hold full up elevator and begin to roll. Bring the stick to neutral as the plane builds up speed and lifts the tail. By this time the stick is neutral and transitioning back to up elevator. So its UP-NEUTRAL-UP. The reason for this is to have as much tail wheel grip and authority as possible until the tail has enough wind speed to have authority and the wings begin to fly. This part takes an element of timing but it is very effective and much like how you would fly a full scale tail dragger. Do not hold up elevator too long because the plane will take off too soon and possibly stall and crash on take off. Depending on the situation this can happen and you may not save it in time.
The plane takes off with some right rudder input and lifts off smoothly every time for me. I have max throws on every surface and no expo or dual rates.
Most guys will just stab the power and take off in 2 feet but if you want to make a nice scale like take off this is how I do it.
Landings
The Stearman has a lot of lift being a biplane so depending on the days wind conditions I set the landing approach power accordingly. I make my down wind run and bring the power back and bleed off speed to load the plane on power. This means my approach altitude is not way up high to dive bomb the runway. I make the turn at somewhere about 40ft altitude and hold this as I make the turn at my landmark tree at 45 degrees or so to me. I want the plane to be above stall speed but the engine is at quarter throttle or so and not speeding up. As the plane lines up on the runway Im backing off power slowly to maintain speed on decent. Over the runway or just a moment before Im at idle and slowly pulling up elevator letting it sink and ready to flare and further slow down. The Stearman has a gentle stall character so dont be affraid of higher alfa flight. The plane is at or below eye level at this point above the end of the runway. My clubs runway is about 480ft so when I stand at the center and do my approach correctly the Stearman will land and roll out by the time it gets to me at 240ft. If Im high at the end of the runway then I go past my station accordingly. Same thing if Im too fast which is easy to do on a calm day.
Basically the slower you can touch down with a higher angle of attack the smoother the landing will be. Come in flat and fast and it will bounce right back up 5 or 6 feet. You can add a little power as you pull up elevator just before touching down, not a lot of power though. Its enough to load the plane and have the engine ready to come up quickly to avoid a problem if needed. You come back to idle right away if the landing is good. As soon as the plane settles you have to add up elevator to gain tail ground control during the roll out. This helps slow you down as well while the engine is at idle.
Also use the rudder as much as possible because its very effective on the Stearman while keeping the wing level at all times with aileron, I know its pretty obvious but many dont use rudder enough.
Grass landing is easier than paved runways for sure. Do not touch down tail first because this can hurt the servo and cause a tip over to a wing tip with a possible cartwheel.
This how I do it with mine and its an awesome plane to fly and barnstorm with. The guys in the club love watching me wring it out.
#16
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RE: Great Planes Super Stearman
Hi Guys -
I'm putting one together with a NIB Zenoah G-26 that I picked up on RCU; my thinking was relative power to an OS 120 FSR, which I also purchased used from RCU, but a little heavier for balancing. I read the review on RC Magazine where the reviewer started with the 120 and switched to the G-26 for balancing. I also liked the though of just using Gas for fuel as I have a couple other Giant scales I fly all of which use gas. Plus it's much cheaper than 4 stroke fuel, though as things are going today, who the heck knows anymore!
Has anyone else used a G-26? My brother Paul (an excellent flyer competing in many Scale Masters comps) flew his PT-17 with a 120 I believe, and said by using battery placement far forward, he didn't need the extra weight mentioned in the SS article, and that the extra weight of the SS cowl should also help with balancing.
I have both engines available, and am prepared to even experiment using one then the other, because the aspect of keeping the plane light for better landings I think is important. The 120 would be the choice for being lighter. Getting the build evaluated will show that.
I really appreciate the info in the thread talking about the wing incidence issues to look for, that along with balance and all alignments certainly makes huge differences in a plane coming right off the table straight and true. Steve Haynes, Alameda CA.
I'm putting one together with a NIB Zenoah G-26 that I picked up on RCU; my thinking was relative power to an OS 120 FSR, which I also purchased used from RCU, but a little heavier for balancing. I read the review on RC Magazine where the reviewer started with the 120 and switched to the G-26 for balancing. I also liked the though of just using Gas for fuel as I have a couple other Giant scales I fly all of which use gas. Plus it's much cheaper than 4 stroke fuel, though as things are going today, who the heck knows anymore!
Has anyone else used a G-26? My brother Paul (an excellent flyer competing in many Scale Masters comps) flew his PT-17 with a 120 I believe, and said by using battery placement far forward, he didn't need the extra weight mentioned in the SS article, and that the extra weight of the SS cowl should also help with balancing.
I have both engines available, and am prepared to even experiment using one then the other, because the aspect of keeping the plane light for better landings I think is important. The 120 would be the choice for being lighter. Getting the build evaluated will show that.
I really appreciate the info in the thread talking about the wing incidence issues to look for, that along with balance and all alignments certainly makes huge differences in a plane coming right off the table straight and true. Steve Haynes, Alameda CA.
#17
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RE: Great Planes Super Stearman
You guys have convinced me to not give up quite yet. I am going to fly it again and have several things to try thanks to you. Keep them coming..
#18
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RE: Great Planes Super Stearman
I just took the 20cc out of mine. Just not quite enough for my taste. Installing a 26cc. The plane itself is a nice flyer. Relatively easy to fly.
#19
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RE: Great Planes Super Stearman
I have the PT-17 version with a Saito 1.80 in her.
In cross-wind conditions she takes some rudder work to track straight. I also use very gentle throttle movements on take & landing roll. I also go opposite of tsome of the guys above, I will actually hold up elevator for the first few feet of the take-off roll, because of you allow the tail to come up quickly during the initial roll, the P torque will steer her offline quickly.
Mine also has smoke and comes in around 15.5lbs. I use split elevator servos and all my servos are metal gear so they are a bit heavy adding to her weight. But once airborne, she is simply amazing and the bigSaito really makes her sound very scale.
On landing, I let her settle in and just about an inch or so before the main gear are down, I gently relax the elevator input and she will sit down on the mains and roll out without bouncing providing you are not too fast.
In cross-wind conditions she takes some rudder work to track straight. I also use very gentle throttle movements on take & landing roll. I also go opposite of tsome of the guys above, I will actually hold up elevator for the first few feet of the take-off roll, because of you allow the tail to come up quickly during the initial roll, the P torque will steer her offline quickly.
Mine also has smoke and comes in around 15.5lbs. I use split elevator servos and all my servos are metal gear so they are a bit heavy adding to her weight. But once airborne, she is simply amazing and the bigSaito really makes her sound very scale.
On landing, I let her settle in and just about an inch or so before the main gear are down, I gently relax the elevator input and she will sit down on the mains and roll out without bouncing providing you are not too fast.
#21
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RE: Great Planes Super Stearman
Not really helpful for this thread but we all need to add more pictures when we post. Sure is nice to have some pictures to look at when we are doing our reading. Some really nice looking planes gents.
#22
RE: Great Planes Super Stearman
O.K here you go! Not all supers but still StearmansThe 17 is powered with the DLE20 and the Super which belongs to my buddy has a converted leaf blower in it.
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RE: Great Planes Super Stearman
Hi all,
Just seen this thread...I have an FG30 in mine, and it flies beautifully - so love the sound in the air - very realistic. I agree that it is easy to bounce on landings, but two other factors help to float it in - one getting the idle speed right so that it does not come in too fast and secondly I have my C of G in the rearward location as the manual. In the photo you will see I put a huge spinner on it - but that was enough to make it a little nose heavy!
The other improvement that I have made is to make up some 'clevis' - well brass hooks actually and they do two things - a) protect the wing bolt holes and b) make rigging with the elastic wires a doddle. I cannot see if you guys have used the rigging - but if you follow the GP method it is a major pain when doing so - and used to take me 15 minutes - now only 5 minutes. I reckon that the rigging does add to the realism.
Just seen this thread...I have an FG30 in mine, and it flies beautifully - so love the sound in the air - very realistic. I agree that it is easy to bounce on landings, but two other factors help to float it in - one getting the idle speed right so that it does not come in too fast and secondly I have my C of G in the rearward location as the manual. In the photo you will see I put a huge spinner on it - but that was enough to make it a little nose heavy!
The other improvement that I have made is to make up some 'clevis' - well brass hooks actually and they do two things - a) protect the wing bolt holes and b) make rigging with the elastic wires a doddle. I cannot see if you guys have used the rigging - but if you follow the GP method it is a major pain when doing so - and used to take me 15 minutes - now only 5 minutes. I reckon that the rigging does add to the realism.