Ugly stick and 20cc gas
05-13-2013, 01:35 PM
#2
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Poolesville, MD
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RE: Ugly stick and 20cc gas
What specifically are you asking?
How to mount the engine?
If so, remove existing mounting blind nuts by pushing them back out from the front.
Get some hardwood dowels from a craft store and cut them down so they are the same width as the firewall.
Apply epoxy and insert the dowels flush with the back of the firewall.
Let dry and cut & sand down the front so they are even with the firewall.
Once done mount your new engine on standoffs and center over the firewall.
Mark the new hole positions and drill out accordingly.
How to mount the engine?
If so, remove existing mounting blind nuts by pushing them back out from the front.
Get some hardwood dowels from a craft store and cut them down so they are the same width as the firewall.
Apply epoxy and insert the dowels flush with the back of the firewall.
Let dry and cut & sand down the front so they are even with the firewall.
Once done mount your new engine on standoffs and center over the firewall.
Mark the new hole positions and drill out accordingly.
05-13-2013, 02:31 PM
#3
RE: Ugly stick and 20cc gas
If you are talking about the big red stick that has a tricycle gear, then I am on the right track. I have a Hangar 9 Ultra Stick Lite with a Zenoa G26 and can tell you what I did.
1st it already is a tail dragger, so I didn't have to move the gear. However, you probably will. Whatever you do, make sure you reinforce the area where it attaches. I added braces, fiberglass cloth to make the area stronger. And make it tall enough for the big prop to clear the ground.
2nd you will need to reinforce the firewall like opjose said. I doubled 2pieces of lite ply, epoxied it to the existing firewall. Also added more bracing behind with fiberglass cloth and epoxy.
3rd unless you mount the motor on stand offs, you will need to run the fuel lines, overflow (if you have one) line and possibly the fuel dot line around the motor because the hole where they usually run will be blocked.
4th you will need to move the tank back away from the firewall to make room for the lines. If it is like mine, you will have to place it over one of the bulkheads and will need to build a shelf to hold it in place.
5th it will need a kill switch. The type will depend on whether the motor is magneto fired or electronic ignition. On mine I will have both a radio activated one and a manual one on the fuse.
6th I don,t know if this is a necessity, but I have switched out the CA hinges for pinned dubro ones.
7th I moved the servos for elevator and rudder to th rear of the fuse. One is mounted on the side for the elevator and one in the top center for a pull pull set up. (I am currently redoing the set up and will forego the pull pull for a rod and control horn.
8th if you move the servos you need to build in the framing and mounting supports.
9th reinforce the wing mounts, the hole area where the pins enter the fuse bulkhead. I changed the pins to solid oak and doubled the firewall with lite ply.
10 use metal geared servos and seal the wing and elevator hinge points.
11 you probably already know this, but if not, change out the tank stopper for gas and the fuel lines.
Now, if you still want to do this good luck and I hope it works out. Would I do it again? Probably not.....I would just buy one all set up for a gas motor. However, it is fun to do it at least once and it is a great way to bash a big ARF.
1st it already is a tail dragger, so I didn't have to move the gear. However, you probably will. Whatever you do, make sure you reinforce the area where it attaches. I added braces, fiberglass cloth to make the area stronger. And make it tall enough for the big prop to clear the ground.
2nd you will need to reinforce the firewall like opjose said. I doubled 2pieces of lite ply, epoxied it to the existing firewall. Also added more bracing behind with fiberglass cloth and epoxy.
3rd unless you mount the motor on stand offs, you will need to run the fuel lines, overflow (if you have one) line and possibly the fuel dot line around the motor because the hole where they usually run will be blocked.
4th you will need to move the tank back away from the firewall to make room for the lines. If it is like mine, you will have to place it over one of the bulkheads and will need to build a shelf to hold it in place.
5th it will need a kill switch. The type will depend on whether the motor is magneto fired or electronic ignition. On mine I will have both a radio activated one and a manual one on the fuse.
6th I don,t know if this is a necessity, but I have switched out the CA hinges for pinned dubro ones.
7th I moved the servos for elevator and rudder to th rear of the fuse. One is mounted on the side for the elevator and one in the top center for a pull pull set up. (I am currently redoing the set up and will forego the pull pull for a rod and control horn.
8th if you move the servos you need to build in the framing and mounting supports.
9th reinforce the wing mounts, the hole area where the pins enter the fuse bulkhead. I changed the pins to solid oak and doubled the firewall with lite ply.
10 use metal geared servos and seal the wing and elevator hinge points.
11 you probably already know this, but if not, change out the tank stopper for gas and the fuel lines.
Now, if you still want to do this good luck and I hope it works out. Would I do it again? Probably not.....I would just buy one all set up for a gas motor. However, it is fun to do it at least once and it is a great way to bash a big ARF.
