Bcolici

Man i noticed a piece of triangle stock with an air gap too, I'll be checking that.
I think this plane is made for electric power the way the firewall is vented. I'll be closing up the firewall as well. Ive seen a deflector made of roof flashing placed toward the bottom of the firewall to help with cooling the engine. I have to find that mod again.
My plane had some issues that needed attention but nothing i consider major. I dont mind doing a little work so im ok with it.I got the servo arms and linkage done today.

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

Go over the entire structure and beef up with CA on critical joints.although only a 20 cc engine when it's all ready to fly I can't imagine you want that investment to crash.so use 2 life batteries.make sure the servo wire extension if any are high guage.use a miracle dual switch.check your batteries after each flight.go over your controls make sure you have paid attention to every detail most of all have fun!

Bcolici

Thanks for the tips.
I have H.D. servo extensions and used the clips for the connection and two Miracle switches (not the MPI ones).
I plan on using a Tech Aero IBEC and one li-fe battery with two power leads.


Regarding my question for the rudder cable, i think im going to use the one supplied. It seems to have a coating over the steel wire.
The only thing so far i replaced are the wheels. You could make them work if you use a shorter set screw that sinks into the collar for the axle. I dont like how hard they are, so i changed them out for Dubros.

JoeMamma

At first those aluminum wheels sure looked nice. But after some close examination, the same person who made and drilled my aluminum landing gear supports also made these wheels.

First of all, when I placed the wheels onto the supplied axle shafts they were wobbling very bad.

Second, the supplied axle shafts (in my opinion) are too small (thin) for a 9-10 pound plane. This is simply from past experiences, so I picked up a set of new Dubro 3/16” axle shafts.

I needed to drill out the axle shaft holes in both wheels to 3/16”, so first I removed all of the Allen-head screws holding the wheel halves together. After separating the wheel halves I noticed NOTHING in the machining/drilling/tapping process was done as a automatic CNC operation. None of the holes were concentric and they appeared to be hand-drilled at random with zero regard to any set drilling dimensions. After the holes were hand-drilled it appears they handed someone a tap and told them..........here......hold the wheel in your right hand and hold the tap in your left hand and tap (about) here.....and oh, don’t worry about the tap being crooked. Zero, absolutely zero quality control in my opinion.

Every hole had a lot of un-removed aluminum flashing, but they were still assembled anyway. This accounts for the wheel wobble when I tried out the supplied axles. Also, none of the holes were countersunk after drilling.......just loaded up with flashing. My gosh, I sure hope this company doesn’t ever get into doing any engine manufacturing and machining !! Again, zero, absolutely zero quality control in my opinion.

Anyways, after spending about 1 1/2 hours re-machining, re-drilling and re-tapping the wheels they now spin true on the new 3/16” Dubro shafts.

Joe M.

rekit500

I just wanna say-we all know how Chinese employees are treated. Thanks goodness for the one's that want to do a good job and are rushed/beaten/who knows what. But I have a Redwing/Goldwing model , and it flies great!!! It's the MX2 with a 90 four stroke that I fly. Not letting TBM off the hook AT ALL, but I think we will all be happy when we fly the thing. So we had to do a little work, what ARF doesn't need a change of hardware, a little CA. I still think the engineering on the airframe looks right, and we can fix the rest. Time will tell. Now-who's going first?
Does anyone have a good way to measure the up/right thrust? The right looks close, not sure about the up. Again---not hard to adjust, but too bad TBM never flew the thing so they could give some advice. I never got a reply on my CG request.

Bcolici

I posted a link a couple of post back of how to make a rig that will show where the cg is.
We shouldnt have to go thru it to know where the cg is but at least its there for us.

Its going to probably be in the spring before i maiden mine.

JoeMamma

Me too !

Joe M.

rekit500

I'm in TX. We fly all year.... <G> I hope to get er in the air in a couple of weeks.

JoeMamma

Where did you set the initial CG at ?

Thank You for being the test-tee !

Joe M.

rekit500

Haven't got that far yet. I've decided so far to put the batteries under the tank platform, one on each side. I'll have to brace that floor and be able to close off that area from the prop blast, and still be able to access it . I'm putting a vertical piece of lite ply in the motor box to bolt the choke bellcrank to. I fooled around with some angle aluminum but it will be simpler this way. I'll post some pics soon. I want to move the throttle servo back near the rudder servo if I can and have room for a smoke tank beside the gas tank later. Or find room for the smoke tank further back........Want to see how it flies first. Still have to open up the cowling in and out.

rekit500

OK, just used a calc at RCACF.com. Came out at 4.67" from LE. (You are advised to check the measurements on YOUR plane) Sounds good as the wing tube is at 4.7" or so. Now how tail heavy will it be as built, that's the million $ ?

Bcolici

can you post a pic of the bellcrank for the choke rod?
please keep us posted.

rekit500

Here ya are. The middle pic is just showing how it fits in there. I think it's an old Dubro bellcrank for Control Line I had laying around (showing my age...). I used a 4-40 allen head so I could tighten it from the rear although you can get to it from the side. I'll put a small block of balsa with a hole in it down at the bottom where the pullrod comes out the bottom of the cowl. Make a note rather it's up or down to choke in case you forget at the field. (again with the age thing .......)

rekit500

Here's where you will find the area to slit open for the pull-pull cables. It's looking like the balance will come out on the spar with everything in the normal places. I'm putting the batteries below the tank, will put some plastic in case of a leak. Have quite a bit of room fore-aft for balancing by moving the batteries.

JoeMamma

rekit500

Looks like you are taking the lead on building this one.

Thanks for the pic showing the rudder cable outlets. Mine were very hard to find.

As far as the elevator servo locations ? What a shame to need to cut a big hole on each side of the fuse and destroy those nice scale-like graphics. I think I may find a way to mount the elevator servo (s?) inside the fuse..........haven't gotten that far along yet.

Spent a lot of time regluing and reinforcing almost everything I can see and gain access to.

I'm installing an O.S. 1.20AX and want the engine mounting box to be very strong, so I'm currently working on repairing/rebuilding/reinforcing the box. I still can't believe how thin all of the wood is around this area. I'm also in the process of closing up most of those big open holes around the engine box. The original design and intent of this model must have been for electric power ?? Talk about excess factory cooling holes !

Keep in touch.

Joe M.

Bcolici

Thanks for posting the pics.
I was just searching for the aluminum air deflector mod i saw somewhere and can't locate it. It was installed behind the engine on the firewall which also closed it up.
I think i saw it on the 70 revolver thread.
BTW Joe do you still have you revolver?

JoeMamma

Yep.....I'm planning on taking it down to Florida for 5-6 weeks for our winter (gloom and doom) break. An O.S. 1.20AX for power.

Love's 'dem 1.20AX's ! Let's see, with this Sbach, I'll have four 1.20AX powered (.60 size) planes. The other two are my Hangar 9 Ultra Stik and a Hangar 9 Pulse 125.

Joe M.

rekit500

Hard to believe there's only a few of us on this thread. Oh well. I cut some balsa to close up the front, but I've got to make it removable to access the batteries from time to time, and rebalance it as I go. The thought of screws coming loose and going into my rear carb DLE 20........so I'm gonna use duct tape on the first flights. I would like to put a screen on that carb. Any stray crap floating around in the plane could go in there. Anyone seen one? I can't be the only one concerned about that.

rekit500

What prop/rpm on those 1.20AX's? What size tank?

Bcolici

maybe use some small blind nuts,screws and threadlock to secure it.

JoeMamma

The Revolver ? Weight came out at 10.1 pounds.

I used the supplied 420cc Great Planes tank that came with the Revolver. I usually fly 7-10 minutes and still have about a quarter of a tank leftover. I'll probably be using a comparable size Sullivan tank for my Sbach.

After doing some experimenting a few years back, I have been using the same APC 15x8 prop on all of my 1.20AX's. I have not done any true, scientific rpm tests.

Two of my 1.20's (on my the Pulse 125 and Ultra Stik) are using the stock, supplied O.S. Powerbox muffler. The Revolver is using a Bisson Pitts-style muffler. From what I remember they all pull in the 9100-9300 rpm range using Wildcat 15% 2-stroke/4-stroke fuel. My Sbach will also be using the Bisson Pitt-style muffler. In fact, fitting the Bisson on my Sbach is what I'm doing tonight.

What I like about the 1.20AX on a 10 pound plane using the APC 15x8 is the very high-speed and also the excellent straight-up climbing ability. Again, nothing scientific about my testing, just noted observations.

I prefer to do pattern-style flying and don't really get into hovering or 3D. I also tend to tune my engines slightly on the rich side. Some of them have in excess of 300-400 flights so I must be doing something right ??

Joe M.

Bcolici

rekit, are you crossing the cables in fuse for the pull pull setup? It seems that would work better to me.
Im thinking of installing tubing where the cables exit the fuse.

rekit500

Yes, crossing the cables. Here's where I ended up placing the throttle servo, tank, and ign. module, for now anyway. The two 5 cell batteries will be on a tray under the tank .

The little triangle on the choke rod is backed by some lite ply between the bottom cowl mounts. I may find a better spot for the ign. module, but I know I want it away from the heat and vibration as best I can. I do wonder how durable these are? This is my first gasser.

Bcolici

Looks good Thanks.
Just make sure your lateral balance is ok.
Also, why did you have to use the wood blocks as spacers on the firewall?
I see that n83mc didnt have to. Was your motor mount too short?
Just curious.

Bcolici

N83MC have you flown yours yet?