foodstick

I would love to see video of this flying, I think I will jump over to youtube and see if it can be found..

rcfighterjock

Here is a picture taken at a regional fun fly. I don't have any flight videos, but I did notice on youtube that the question of pitch sensitivity came up. I make a habit of setting my cg at the front of the suggested range on all my aircraft, regardless of how much nose weight I need to add. No different here. With a six cell 5000 motor battery and the Dave Brown spinner, I added about a pound to the nose and the AUW ready to fly is 14 pounds. I have not noticed any pitch sensitivity and it is very smooth in the air.
Dave

Mark@ny

Do you think this motor and esc from mile high rc would be a good pick
5065-7 320KV Outrunner Brushless Motor (1600 - 2100 Watts)

Pentium 80A HV ESC V4

Should a single 6s pack be used or 2 3s packs? Any pros or cons? Would like to get 10 min flight time.

What's size prop did you run?

Thanks

rcfighterjock

Hi,
I'm using a 5050/580 Hobby King motor and a 90/100 Hobby King ESC in my plane. Turnigy 6 cell 5000 mah motor pack with a separate receiver pack. APC 15x7E prop. As I said above all up it's about 14 pounds. I'm not exactly sure, but I believe I'm pulling in the 1300-1500 watt range at around 55-60 amps. Don't quote me, it's been awhile since I checked it. I use the same setup on all three of my big Maxford bipes. 1600-2100 watts should be plenty of power to fly this with authority. I tried a 5065/380 motor, but I don't think the six cell pack was turning it strong enough to give me the watts/amps range I was looking for. The prop was turning too slow at that voltage to give me enough watts and increasing the prop enough to get the watts over-amped it. Increasing the kv of the motor got me right where I needed to be. Your setup may work fine if you can get that watt/amp range with it.
As to the motor battery, with the setup I have, it flies really well. Flat, gentle takeoffs and smooth flight with minimal scale-type aerobatics. I fly around 5-7 minutes and when charging I replace around half to two-thirds of the capacity. You should get close to 10 minutes on 5000 mah if you aren't trying to cut holes in the sky.
The battery goes in best using the hatch under the nose. If you use two 3 cell packs, you would need to strap them in together, which I'm sure can be done. I used the six cell because it fit (fairly snugly) and was easy to strap into place. Also, two of my 3 cell 3600 (in series a 6s 3600 setup) packs are approximately the same size as my 6 cell 5000, so I'm not sure that two 3 cell 5000 packs would fit in the battery bay if that is what you are looking to do.
Any other questions, feel free and good luck!
Keep 'em Flying.
Dave

Mark@ny

Thanks I really do appreciate the info. The HK50/50-580 is out of stock that is why I was looking for other alternatives.

rcfighterjock

I hadn't noticed they are out of stock! I use a BUNCH of those in various planes. Geez... after a quick search the Rimfire 120 is a close match, if you don't mind paying three times as much...

RickC2

Bought one (Maxford 1/5th scale) last month and have been fiddling around with the scale details and such. The dummy motor seems really tall so I am modifing it. I had origionally had intended to fly it 12s but I don't think there is enough room without me doing major reconstruction. Overall I am happy with it so far and will let you know if anyones interested.

Rick

Mark@ny

This is directed to rcfighterjock since he has the only one flying that has spoken up. I found altitudehobbies.com to be a carrier for Suppo motors and Leopard motors what do you think. Has anyone used any of this company's motors? Still in debate on what to put in my Maxford Albatros 1/5th. The Hobbyking one that was recommended is still out of stock.

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Home » Brushless Motors » Leopard Motors » Airplane Motors » Leopard 5065-7T 390kv Brushless Airplane Motor (Equiv. to 4130)
LEOPARD 5065-7T 390KV BRUSHLESS AIRPLANE MOTOR (EQUIV. TO 4130)

- See more at: http://www.altitudehobbies.com/brushless-motors/leopard-multicopter-motors/leopard-airplane-motors/leopard-5065-7t-390kv-brushless-airplane-motor-equiv.-to-4130#sthash.9peXikPW.dpuf

rcfighterjock

Hello!
I'm sorry but I don't have any experience with those motor brands. A flying buddy of mine suggested Tacon brand motors as being good. I looked them up and discovered they are found through Nitroplanes/Hobby Partz, but the majority of those are out of stock as well. Where have all the great, reasonably priced electric motors gone?
I can tell you that with my 15x7E prop, I've got a good 3-4 inches of prop/ground clearance with the tail up at flying attitude, so this plane would undoubtedly handle a 16-18 inch prop. If I needed to change, I might try going with a bigger motor, say a 5060/380 or the like and use a bigger prop on 8 cells. Maybe two 4 cell packs in series. That may require having to drop the milliamp capacity a bit to get the batteries to fit, or getting creative with battery placement. More power, shorter flights.
As my plane came out at roughly 14 pounds all up, my advice would be to look for a motor that will give you around 1500+ watts on 6 cells and go with that. I wouldn't spend too much time concerned with the brand, but that's just me. If there is anything else I can help with, don't hesitate to ask.
Dave

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

I think I may have watched that bullet nosed Fokker( ok...Albatros) flying in Owatonna once or twice. Perhaps I will see it in Chicago?

rcfighterjock

Is that you, Jeff?
Yeah, you saw it there. Landed it rubber side down too, didn't I? As long as I can keep doing that, you will most assuredly see it in Chicago. And Michigan. And everywhere else I'm going this year. If not, I'll be bringing the Nieuport 28. I'd rather not though. I'd hate to look over my shoulder and see that awesomely sinister Fokker of yours on my tail! Detroit Lakes was great.
Keep 'em Flying!
Dave

Mark@ny

Thanks again for the info Dave. I respect your opinion of those motors but was hoping to get a better understanding of which one might be a good choice for the Albatros. The similar ones in number size seem to equal up to what would be a .46 which doesn't make sense to me. The data charts on that page have way to much info to help me. The set up you are running sounds like what would work for me but the HK motors just aren't available. If you could help me with choosing a similar motor to what you're running or what you would think would be a good choice I would appreciate the help. The only real reason I was looking there is because their price and availability. I wouldn't mind running a bigger prop but would still like to have a simple battery pack. Any help or advice is appreciated.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Yep its me. I was all set to drive up to the mall show, but my father in law was sent to the Mayo in Rochester for emergency surgery. It was a long weekend, but he is on the mend now, so it was worth it. The DVII will have a big brother if I can ever get it finished. 1/3 scale DRI. Boy is it tall!

rcfighterjock

Hi Mark,
Forgive my misunderstanding. Let's see if I can help. Let me start this with the simple disclaimer that without knowing the final all-up weight of your plane, I imply no guarantees. That being said, let me tell you what I would do (and may ACTUALLY be doing) in the very near future. I took another look at the leopard motors on Altitude hobbies. I'm very interested. Power and price are right. Assuming that your plane will come in at approximately 14-15 pounds like mine and using a 6 cell motor pack like mine you want to pull close to 1500 watts. Let's look at the specs:
My personal favorite is the 5055-7T 620kv. It uses a 3-6 cell lipo motor pack. That fits. It's rated at 72 constant amps, which is a good number. I try to keep most of mine in the high 50's to low 60's MAX with the throttle wide open. With a rating of 72 constant, keeping it in the 50-60 range doesn't make your motor sweat. You can use a 80 amp esc MINIMUM, I'd go 100 amp. You should not exceed 2/3 of your esc amp rating with your total output. In other words, a 100 amp esc will handle 66 amps all day long. Keeps the system cool and happy. They don't give you a constant watts output for this motor, but they say the "pull" is 6.4 kg, or 14.1 pounds. I can tell you right now that will be with a 6 cell pack. This gives a 14 pound plane 100 watts per pound. A 15 pound plane would get 93.3 something watts per pound. PLENTY to fly this plane scale-like. I believe that with a 6 cell pack, a 100 amp speed control and a 16x8E prop, you will have everything you need to fly this plane. Let me tell you though that before you fly it for the first time, put the system on a watt meter. I'll say it again, Watt check it. You can prevent a lot of problems before they occur. Don't try to fly it with less than 85+ watts per flying-weight pound. It would fly, but I don't think you'd enjoy it.
I also looked at the 5055-9T 460. 3-6 cell lipo. 1390 watts. The right prop size. 62 amps instead of 72. If your plane will come out at 14 pounds, a good choice with 6 cells, but gives you a little less "wiggle" room on the amps and watts. Not so good should your plane end up a little heavier.
There are others that come close, but for various reasons don't QUITE make it. I won't bore you with a lot of numbers here, but if you are interested, let me know and I'll get wordy!
Once again, if there is anything I can help you with, please do not hesitate to ask.
Keep 'em Flying!
Dave

rcfighterjock

You multi-winged master, you! Now I know where the D6 went and why. Looks like you have another winner on your hands. Perhaps I will see it in Chicago? Between the D7 and this, should the Albatros for some reason fail to appear, the boys have taken a vote and decided to hoist a pint in the pub and leave the Nieuport at the aerodrome! Keep up the awesome work. I shouldn't tell you this here, but I already have a Balsa USA D7 and will have the SE5 before the end of the year. I'm wide open to suggestions, hints, tips and the like. Keep me informed on the beautiful new build.
Dave

Mark@ny

Yes thanks Dave that is the answer to my question. I will be choosing a leopard motor and speed controller. I trust your suggestions and can by a motor and speed controller for probably about 125$ or less. This will make the project happen sooner. I will probably go with the first recommendation hopefully it will still be in stock when I order. I will definitely try to get some pics up once I get started.

rcfighterjock

Great! They appear to be in stock, and if you don't buy the last one, I probably will! When you get a little closer to the ready to go mode, let me know and I'll do what I can to help you with the final numbers. Good luck with your project and I hope it works out for you.
Dave

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Dave. look at this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ppiETfUaP94 It is dated 2010, so maybe you have looked at it already. An electric powered () DVII. It may give you a starting point, or perhaps the information is to outdated. I have no clue. I own zero electric motors for airplanes. I will have both planes at Chicago. Should be fun.

brucepeter2007

rcfighterjock

Hey Peter,
RCfighterjock here. I don't know if you can get them in the UK, but I used a Dave Brown parabolic spinner. It's an all aluminum spinner that can be painted any color you wish. This will take an electric starter. It's not perfectly scale, but if you scroll up the page, you'll see what it looks like on mine. You give up exact scale, but it will add a little nose weight to the airframe! Use the kit spinner for display. You will need an adapter for the spinner as well, determined by the size of the spinner and the threads of your engines' prop shaft. Check out their website. Mine works beautifully. Good luck!
Dave

brucepeter2007

AirMonty

I got one of these for my birthday in June last year. Beautiful plane. The nose on it disintegrated upon testing it - Maxford gave me another one for free (horrible design IMO). I used the Vanessa rig method to set the CG slightly forward of the recommended point. I double-checked it to be sure. I wanted to have my wife to help me do the 'finger under the wing' test to verify the CG was good, but the wings did not seem strong enough to do that and I figured I would damage it. My setup was electric and I used 10S. I finally got a decent day to maiden it and it went straight up and was hanging there as if I was trying to hang it on the prop. The CG was totally off; there was nothing I could do. It smashed into the ground and tore the crap out of it. I took the guts out of it and threw it on the burn pile.

brucepeter2007

AirMonty

I am sure that the batteries did not move as they were secure. Nothing else could have caused such a dramatic change in CG, so it must have been way off to start with. I have a lot of planes and there has never been a situation like this. The Vanessa Rig method was new to me, but I thought I followed the directions correctly. I actually had added a lot of weight to the nose just to get it to balance where it was. I probably could have added three more pounds to the nose the way it flew.

brucepeter2007