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SIG Rascal 110 ARF Build Thread

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SIG Rascal 110 ARF Build Thread

Old 11-06-2015, 06:20 AM
  #51  
pacoflyer
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Handsome airplane Nice job!
Old 11-06-2015, 07:20 AM
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I found that a dab of silicone gasket goo on the exhaust pipe threads cures any rotational issues or loosening. Sounds like you got the balance in well without added weight, is that right? So far I only have 3 planes that needed lead added, The SIG Somethin Extra, only because it has a 72 and not the recommended engine, the SIG 4*120 because I moved the elevator servo to the tail, but its going to get a DLE 30 on it, so that lead can go away. The only other plane I had no choice on was the ACE 4-60 I picked up for the Saito. I put my OS 70 on it and still had to add a few ounces to the nose for it to balance. That bugger was built tail heavy. All the rest of my plane have no dead weight, I was able to compensate CG by moving things around. My LT-40 started out with about 1 1/2 ounces on the nose, which later fell off somewhere, sometime, but hasn't affected it at least that I notice. My SIG 1/5th Cub balanced out perfectly, not a drop of lead was needed.

What do you use to balance them? I use the Vanessa Rig and it works perfectly, PITA to get stable, but once the plane is hanging true, it is so easy to get the balance done. I can probably find a different use for the Goldberg balancer I have, AKA the Plane DUmper.
Old 11-06-2015, 09:30 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by acdii
I found that a dab of silicone gasket goo on the exhaust pipe threads cures any rotational issues or loosening.
In this case it wasn't "loosening" it was turning itself tighter! It had to be stretching the male aluminum threads on the adapter. The way the 90* adapter is situated on a big block Saito, the rotational pulses are perpendicular to the thread, not like the small/medium blocks with the exhaust on the side.

Originally Posted by acdii
Sounds like you got the balance in well without added weight, is that right? So far I only have 3 planes that needed lead added, The SIG Somethin Extra, only because it has a 72 and not the recommended engine, the SIG 4*120 because I moved the elevator servo to the tail, but its going to get a DLE 30 on it, so that lead can go away. The only other plane I had no choice on was the ACE 4-60 I picked up for the Saito. I put my OS 70 on it and still had to add a few ounces to the nose for it to balance. That bugger was built tail heavy. All the rest of my plane have no dead weight, I was able to compensate CG by moving things around. My LT-40 started out with about 1 1/2 ounces on the nose, which later fell off somewhere, sometime, but hasn't affected it at least that I notice. My SIG 1/5th Cub balanced out perfectly, not a drop of lead was needed.
No extra ballast weight was needed but I did run a much larger 4.8v battery pack for the ignition than usual. It was located right behind the firewall on the starboard cheek. I also had to bury the Rx batteries under the fuel tank juast ahead of the CG.



Originally Posted by acdii
What do you use to balance them? I use the Vanessa Rig and it works perfectly, PITA to get stable, but once the plane is hanging true, it is so easy to get the balance done. I can probably find a different use for the Goldberg balancer I have, AKA the Plane DUmper.
I broke down & purchased a Hobbico CG Machine. It works quite well but with the wing struts in place, it is a challenge. I did the 1st check W/O Rx batteries or the struts. (Note the washout built into the wing tips)





Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 11-06-2015 at 09:34 AM.
Old 11-06-2015, 10:04 AM
  #54  
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I use the CG Machine and I have picked up several levels to use with it. It nice to have one on each side. I also have several "T" levels used for lateral balancing.

Last edited by FlyerInOKC; 11-06-2015 at 10:11 AM.
Old 11-06-2015, 01:15 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by acdii
Sounds like you got the balance in well without added weight, is that right? So far I only have 3 planes that needed lead added, The SIG Somethin Extra, only because it has a 72 and not the recommended engine, the SIG 4*120 because I moved the elevator servo to the tail, but its going to get a DLE 30 on it, so that lead can go away. The only other plane I had no choice on was the ACE 4-60 I picked up for the Saito. I put my OS 70 on it and still had to add a few ounces to the nose for it to balance. That bugger was built tail heavy. All the rest of my plane have no dead weight, I was able to compensate CG by moving things around. My LT-40 started out with about 1 1/2 ounces on the nose, which later fell off somewhere, sometime, but hasn't affected it at least that I notice. My SIG 1/5th Cub balanced out perfectly, not a drop of lead was needed.
No extra ballast weight was needed but I did run a much larger 4.8v battery pack for the ignition than usual. It was located right behind the firewall on the starboard cheek. I also had to bury the Rx batteries under the fuel tank just ahead of the CG.

Bear in mind that I deviated from the plans & located the elevator servo under the wing, NOT under the horizontal stabilizer.

Here is the type of weight that might be required with the servo in the tail.

Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 11-06-2015 at 01:24 PM.
Old 01-16-2016, 08:30 AM
  #56  
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Got the heat going in the shop the other day & had a chance to try my new scale.


I weighed my Rascal 110 & was a bit disappointed.

It came in at 14# 6oz W/O fuel. That will means an all up weight W/16oz of fuel of over 15#.

I added no ballast whatsoever. If I had placed the elevator servo in the tail as per the plans that would have added at least 10 more ozs of ballast in the nose!
Old 01-18-2016, 07:35 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by SrTelemaster150
try my new scale.
50 pounds, that's optimistic! I think you'll get 10-12 pounds of static thrust. Flying you'll be nearer 15 pounds though.

I weighed my Rascal 110 & was a bit disappointed.

It came in at 14# 6oz W/O fuel. That will means an all up weight W/16oz of fuel of over 15#.
It'll still float. I built a 16 pound 88" wingspan Ryobi powered scale like plane that when I forgot to remove the vent plug went dead stick a minute into it's maiden flight, on the way to my "emergency landing" I flew through a thermal, as a sailplaner I took a couple of turns and was going up.
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:39 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by soarrich
50 pounds, that's optimistic! I think you'll get 10-12 pounds of static thrust. Flying you'll be nearer 15 pounds though.



.
Where did you come up W/50# of thrust?
50# /22kg is the weight capacity of the scale.

The physical weight of the aircraft will be 15# W/fuel!

As far as static thrust, it should approach 19# at 8150RPM W/an 18x8.
Old 01-18-2016, 02:05 PM
  #59  
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The 50# was the capacity of the scale I know, that's what the was for.

19# out of a 30cc would be really good, my 31cc Ryobi couldn't do that. I have a 30cc Syssa that might, but I've not mounted it yet. It will be interesting to see if you get 19# static thrust.

The 110" is such a nice looking plane I've almost bought it about 5 times, I just don't have the room.
Old 01-18-2016, 03:00 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by soarrich
The 50# was the capacity of the scale I know, that's what the was for.

19# out of a 30cc would be really good, my 31cc Ryobi couldn't do that. I have a 30cc Syssa that might, but I've not mounted it yet. It will be interesting to see if you get 19# static thrust.

The 110" is such a nice looking plane I've almost bought it about 5 times, I just don't have the room.

I haul it to the field in the back of my 2006 Charger!
Old 01-18-2016, 07:19 PM
  #61  
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I got room in the caravan, but not the attic, garage, or the shed. I have to cull the herd. When I finish my grandson's Kadet Sr. I have a 96"Sr Telemaster Ver1 I'm going to put a little gasser in.
Old 01-19-2016, 08:24 AM
  #62  
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Soarrich,
I also have a 96 Sr Telemaster and was wondering which gasser you are planning to use?

Thanks,
paul
Old 01-19-2016, 09:07 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by soarrich
I got room in the caravan, but not the attic, garage, or the shed. I have to cull the herd. When I finish my grandson's Kadet Sr. I have a 96"Sr Telemaster Ver1 I'm going to put a little gasser in.
Thats what enclosed trailers are good for! Just make sure they are locked up tight. I dont have room for all of mine, so I store them in my mobile hanger.
Old 01-19-2016, 11:01 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by acdii
Thats what enclosed trailers are good for! Just make sure they are locked up tight. I dont have room for all of mine, so I store them in my mobile hanger.
Just be careful someone can't back a truck up to your trailer and carry it off! I notice one of the roofing companies here in town had a "Boot" like some city's use on illegal parked vehicles to keep the trailer from being stolen. We have had several Boy Scout troops in the last year lose all their gear in a stolen trailer.
Old 01-19-2016, 01:14 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by pacoflyer
Soarrich,
I also have a 96 Sr Telemaster and was wondering which gasser you are planning to use?

Thanks,
paul
My friend has on which he powers with a OS.72 4C, it actually has enough power to fly mostly at half throttle, so the problem is to not over power it.

I have a 17cc Chinese motor which I was thinking of using, but I don't know how well it'll run. I also have a couple Turnigy 26cc motors, the one I've run was the smoothest gasser I've ever seen and it seemed to have ample power. I don't think you can buy a gasser engine that wouldn't have more power than you'll need for the Sr. Telemaster. I'm planning on widening the fuse and putting a "radial" cowl. If I didn't plan on widening the fuse I think might go with a Evolution .60, a couple of my friends are running them and they run well.
Old 01-19-2016, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by soarrich
My friend has on which he powers with a OS.72 4C, it actually has enough power to fly mostly at half throttle, so the problem is to not over power it.

I have a 17cc Chinese motor which I was thinking of using, but I don't know how well it'll run. I also have a couple Turnigy 26cc motors, the one I've run was the smoothest gasser I've ever seen and it seemed to have ample power. I don't think you can buy a gasser engine that wouldn't have more power than you'll need for the Sr. Telemaster. I'm planning on widening the fuse and putting a "radial" cowl. If I didn't plan on widening the fuse I think might go with a Evolution .60, a couple of my friends are running them and they run well.
I had a Saito FA-150 on my Sr Telemaster with CD/glow fuel & it was not "overpowered". It had enough power to climb 300' straight up when I yanked back on the stick in a shallow dive & do knife edge. At WOT in level flight it was rock steady.

BTW; It had a 1 piece 95" wing & I hauled it in an '85 VW Golf hatchback.
Old 01-20-2016, 08:48 AM
  #67  
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Thanks Gentlemen,
Sounds like a DLE 20 would be perfect..

paul
Old 01-21-2016, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
Just be careful someone can't back a truck up to your trailer and carry it off! I notice one of the roofing companies here in town had a "Boot" like some city's use on illegal parked vehicles to keep the trailer from being stolen. We have had several Boy Scout troops in the last year lose all their gear in a stolen trailer.
They would need to get through the locked gate, then the locked coupler, then the locked axles. Once they do that, then the alarm will go off and wake the neighbors in a 3 mile radius.
Old 01-21-2016, 08:32 AM
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That's using the old noodle!
Old 01-21-2016, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by acdii
, then the alarm will go off and wake the neighbors in a 3 mile radius.
Sounds like one of your neighbors is already awake!
Old 01-21-2016, 02:50 PM
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Considering I have about 6 neighbors in that 6 mile radius, I wonder who it is......
Old 02-07-2018, 08:02 AM
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Old 07-25-2021, 08:47 AM
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Can any of the members in here tell me if the Rascal 110 aluminum wing spar is straight or does it have dihedral built into it? I recently purchased a Rascal 110 (built) that was missing some parts (including the spar). I can make a spar easily enough if given the dimensions,etc. but I'm not sure what the dihedral angle of the aluminum bar stock should be or if the spar is straight.

Thanks in advance!
John
Old 08-05-2023, 04:52 AM
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So I purchased one of these and found an issue I did not expect. There is no access to the rear of the firewall to mount an engine. I have 2 engine choices. A DLE 35RA or an RCGF 26RE. In both cases, the upper right corner was right at the edge and would interfere with the fuselage side. After much pondering, I decided to make a mounting plate from 3/8" ply and attach that to the firewall. The photo shows where the bolt holes would be using an NGH beam mount with the RCGF engine. You can see the problem in the upper right. It wasn't any better with the DLE35. This change will require a longer cowl which is available from Fiberglass Specialties, fortunately. My method follows. Hopefully this will help someone else in the future.


Last edited by rammon3; 08-05-2023 at 04:54 AM.
Old 08-05-2023, 05:00 AM
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First step was to make a hole pattern template.

The plate is cut from 3/8” ply at 4-3/4” square. This matches the width of the fuselage.

Mark the plate with the thrust lines to match the firewall.

Attach the template to the plate (I used 3M 77 for this).

Centerpunch all the holes on the template.Using a drill press drill pilot holes through at all locations (I used 3/32” bit).

Drill the 1” hole at the bottom only with a 1” Forstner bit.




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