Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
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RE: Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
Is the 5" measurment from the firewall to the back plate of the spinner from the firewall on the box and not the first former at the fuse? So I would measure from the back of the motor mount then, correct?
Thanks
Thanks
#378
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RE: Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
ORIGINAL: bambam-x
Is the 5" measurment from the firewall to the back plate of the spinner from the firewall on the box and not the first former at the fuse? So I would measure from the back of the motor mount then, correct?
Thanks
Is the 5" measurment from the firewall to the back plate of the spinner from the firewall on the box and not the first former at the fuse? So I would measure from the back of the motor mount then, correct?
Thanks
Yes, that is correct.
Jim
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RE: Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
OR..... what you could do is sell that Saito and buy a YS 63. It has the same power as the 91 at 17.9 ounces just .3 more than the 82!!!
P.S. At $239
P.S. At $239
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RE: Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
I used a Saito 100 with a 16x4 on 25% Powermaster. It has plenty of power but was a little hard to hover. Due to a wheel falling off in flight I cracked the left gear mount. Any ideas on how to beef up the gear on this thing?
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RE: Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
I am having the exact same problem with my plane. Did you ever get this figured out? Not only is one side higher but one side travels up further and the other down further.
Any ideas?
Rino
Any ideas?
Rino
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RE: Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
ORIGINAL: rino
I am having the exact same problem with my plane. Did you ever get this figured out? Not only is one side higher but one side travels up further and the other down further.
Any ideas?
Rino
I am having the exact same problem with my plane. Did you ever get this figured out? Not only is one side higher but one side travels up further and the other down further.
Any ideas?
Rino
EDIT: THIS IS WRONG. PLEASE SEE POST #390 BELOW.
Jim
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RE: Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
ORIGINAL: rino
I used a Saito 100 with a 16x4 on 25% Powermaster. It has plenty of power but was a little hard to hover. Due to a wheel falling off in flight I cracked the left gear mount. Any ideas on how to beef up the gear on this thing?
I used a Saito 100 with a 16x4 on 25% Powermaster. It has plenty of power but was a little hard to hover. Due to a wheel falling off in flight I cracked the left gear mount. Any ideas on how to beef up the gear on this thing?
Jim
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RE: Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
Thanks for the feedback. I can see getting one side to 90 degrees but on the other side on the the left elevator the servo arm points up so the elevator will move in the right direction. How do you get that arm to 90 degrees. Can you send me a pic of yours?
Thanks,
Rino
Thanks,
Rino
#390
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RE: Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
Rino:
I have been doing some thinking and sketching, and I think I said that wrong. The problem is, with long servo arms, the pushrods approach the control horns from an angle (the pushrods aren't 90 degrees to the horns) and this imparts some differential throw. Since the angle is opposite on the two sides, the differential is backwards on the two sides. Yes, that would cause a problem.
Without getting too technical, the solution is to mount the servo arms on the servos at 90 degrees to the servos. (Not 90 degrees to the pushrods, as I said earlier.) The left arm should point straight up and the right arm straight down. This will give differential in the opposite direction as that given by the control horns, and the net result should be equal up and down in both elevators.
I set one up that way a while back for a friend and he has not had any problems.
Jim
I have been doing some thinking and sketching, and I think I said that wrong. The problem is, with long servo arms, the pushrods approach the control horns from an angle (the pushrods aren't 90 degrees to the horns) and this imparts some differential throw. Since the angle is opposite on the two sides, the differential is backwards on the two sides. Yes, that would cause a problem.
Without getting too technical, the solution is to mount the servo arms on the servos at 90 degrees to the servos. (Not 90 degrees to the pushrods, as I said earlier.) The left arm should point straight up and the right arm straight down. This will give differential in the opposite direction as that given by the control horns, and the net result should be equal up and down in both elevators.
I set one up that way a while back for a friend and he has not had any problems.
Jim
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RE: Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
The interesting thing with this is that the location of the servo on the fues affects the angle of the pushrod to the servo arm. The smaller the angle the more throw you actually get. On the edge 60 I think the geometry is actually a little bit off so you get more throw on the side that has the servo arm pointing up.
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RE: Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
Hi Jim,
I'm about 90% finished with the 40 size and have a few questions you might have the answers for:
1 Is everybody happy with a single nylon screw holding each wing to the fuse. I wonder how the nylon is ok with the vibration. I know the main force on the wing will be a different direction, but I can see a lot of centrifical force with a fast roll rate - any thoughts?
2. How did you route the elev servo extensions so as not to interfer with the pull pull rudder cables.
3. I struggle with 3D and precise manuvers. But I'm pretty good with landing. Still, every now and then the landing gear comes back with a new shape. Question Did you do anything to beef up the gear. I really use nylon 1/4 20s when I can. but that will not work here.
4. I'm using a Saito .82, a great planes 12 oz tank and a 14x6 prop. any comments?
Thanks for your input
I'm about 90% finished with the 40 size and have a few questions you might have the answers for:
1 Is everybody happy with a single nylon screw holding each wing to the fuse. I wonder how the nylon is ok with the vibration. I know the main force on the wing will be a different direction, but I can see a lot of centrifical force with a fast roll rate - any thoughts?
2. How did you route the elev servo extensions so as not to interfer with the pull pull rudder cables.
3. I struggle with 3D and precise manuvers. But I'm pretty good with landing. Still, every now and then the landing gear comes back with a new shape. Question Did you do anything to beef up the gear. I really use nylon 1/4 20s when I can. but that will not work here.
4. I'm using a Saito .82, a great planes 12 oz tank and a 14x6 prop. any comments?
Thanks for your input
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RE: Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
Jim,
Thank you for post 390. I noticed this problem too and didn't know what to do about it. I'm going to try your 90° method and see how that works.
JZ
Thank you for post 390. I noticed this problem too and didn't know what to do about it. I'm going to try your 90° method and see how that works.
JZ
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RE: Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
I just spent some more time working on it and have it nailed. The geometry on the left side is a little off. By this I mean that if you use the same servo arm hole on each side and the same elevator control horn setting on each side you will get a differential in throw. The left side will go higher and the right side will go lower. The issue is the position of the servos in the fueselage relative to each other and the elevator control horns. On the left side, with the servo arm pointing up, you end up with some pretty small angles which actually increases the throw some. This seems counterintuitive but if you lay out a couple of servo arms and a rod and play with the effect that different angles and heights have you will see what I mean. Anyways, I started with the right side and set max throws. This included radio throw percentages. I also did this with the left elevator disconnected. After my all my settings were optimal on the right I moved to the left. The first thing I did was move the clevis down on the left servo arm to bring the angle closer to 90 degrees. Then, to get the throw correct, I moved up on the elevator control horn. After a few tries, I got the left to match the right in throw both up and down and all is well. If anyone knows a good physics article that would explain these relationships pass it onl
Basically, this is an engineering error on the part of the designer.
Rino
Basically, this is an engineering error on the part of the designer.
Rino
#396
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RE: Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
Well, I guess this shows two things; 1-it can be done, and 2-you need play with the geometry.
I don't have my Edge 60 anymore to look at, but I used stock servo arms and the angle of the pushrods was about equal, and nearly straight on both sides. The long servo arms do cause problems by angling the pushrods and set up gets a little tricky.
Starting with the arms 90 degrees to the servo is critical though. Then go from there in trying new things.
Of course there is always the alternative of using separate channels for the two servos and using the transmitter to balance the throws with up and down ATV adjustments. But you would still want to start with the arms at 90 degrees to the servo.
Jim
I don't have my Edge 60 anymore to look at, but I used stock servo arms and the angle of the pushrods was about equal, and nearly straight on both sides. The long servo arms do cause problems by angling the pushrods and set up gets a little tricky.
Starting with the arms 90 degrees to the servo is critical though. Then go from there in trying new things.
Of course there is always the alternative of using separate channels for the two servos and using the transmitter to balance the throws with up and down ATV adjustments. But you would still want to start with the arms at 90 degrees to the servo.
Jim
#397
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RE: Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
ORIGINAL: robinr767
Hi Jim,
I'm about 90% finished with the 40 size and have a few questions you might have the answers for:
1 Is everybody happy with a single nylon screw holding each wing to the fuse. I wonder how the nylon is ok with the vibration. I know the main force on the wing will be a different direction, but I can see a lot of centrifical force with a fast roll rate - any thoughts?
2. How did you route the elev servo extensions so as not to interfer with the pull pull rudder cables.
3. I struggle with 3D and precise manuvers. But I'm pretty good with landing. Still, every now and then the landing gear comes back with a new shape. Question Did you do anything to beef up the gear. I really use nylon 1/4 20s when I can. but that will not work here.
4. I'm using a Saito .82, a great planes 12 oz tank and a 14x6 prop. any comments?
Thanks for your input
Hi Jim,
I'm about 90% finished with the 40 size and have a few questions you might have the answers for:
1 Is everybody happy with a single nylon screw holding each wing to the fuse. I wonder how the nylon is ok with the vibration. I know the main force on the wing will be a different direction, but I can see a lot of centrifical force with a fast roll rate - any thoughts?
2. How did you route the elev servo extensions so as not to interfer with the pull pull rudder cables.
3. I struggle with 3D and precise manuvers. But I'm pretty good with landing. Still, every now and then the landing gear comes back with a new shape. Question Did you do anything to beef up the gear. I really use nylon 1/4 20s when I can. but that will not work here.
4. I'm using a Saito .82, a great planes 12 oz tank and a 14x6 prop. any comments?
Thanks for your input
1 - Nylon screws are used because they are much more resistant to vibration than metal screws. I have lost several wing bolts over the years, all metal. On over 100 airplanes, I've never had a nylon wing bolt loosen up .
2 - Zip-tie them to a small hole drilled in the bottom of the former at the back of the hatch opening.
3 - There is good and bad news. The gear is fairly soft and will bend in a hard landing. But that helps keep the gear from tearing out the gear mounts. Just bend them back into shape as needed. You can usually do this without removing them from the fuselage.
4 - Good engine, but use an APC 14x4W. The pull-out of a hover will be much stronger and the downline braking is awesome. I'd also use a Hayes tank instead of a Great Planes. Hayes tanks never leak.
The 82 vibrates more than most engines, so be sure to use silicon seal on the cowl and hatch screws to keep them from falling out (metal screws, you see). The wing tube holes in the side of the fuselage will eventually wear from the vibration, but you can use CA to tighten them up if necessary.
Jim
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RE: Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
Check this out. I have the 60 Edge. With 50% spoileron this thing harriers nicely. It hovers like a dream too. I am really in love with this plane. I can't get it to do a waterfall yet. Anyone done that?
rino
rino