P-51B

My Feedback: (5)

I just picked up a Goldberg Tiger 60. In searching threads about it, I didn't see a lot of engine choice discussion. I am just looking for good sport performance with strong verticle. I have a Saito .91 sitting around, but some of the discussion that I did find indicated that may not be enough. So, for those who have this plane, what engine (size) will give good performance?

Teachu2

My Feedback: (133)

Flies great with a 61 two-stroke or a 91 four-stroke. I've had a bunch of them. Consider making it a tail-dragger for the 91, as prop clearance is an issue on a 14" prop.

P-51B

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks for the input. Looks like my .91 has a home!

alex24

Go for the 91. Mine had a Thunder tiger 91 and works great, considering my plane was kind of heavy!

Alex

FHHuber

I'm working on one now.

Initially, I'm mounting an old RJL .61 2-stroke, which is about 80% to 85% as powerful as the O.S. FX (but can't possibly turn the same max rpm not matter what prop I choose) It is more powerful than a O.S. .46 FX. I'll be using a 13X6 Top Flite wood prop. (and breaking my rule of no wood prop with plastic backplated spinner)

WHY? To check if I'm right and that the plane will fly as designed (and advertised) using an engine right on the average power listed as being correct.

Initial flights will be using the stock hardware, everything exactly by the ARF instructions, with VERY 2 minor changes...

1) I bent the main gear to move the wheels back 1/2 inch. (cure the tail drooping problem)

2) I replaced the kit's nosewheel strut. They ground the flat on it at the factory... and the flat is too deep AND aligns the steering arm so I can't get any left at all. (steering arm bound up against the firewall) If the flat wasn't ground so deep... I could alter it and fix it.

At this point... I can't see why it won't fly using a .61.

I can say that the pushrods and control horns are definitely inadequate if using a .91 4-stroke. You want to break a plane use the stock hardware with the .91.... I give it about 3 flights before you break one of the dowels or bend a soft 2 mm pushrod...

gtisme

I have probably 60 or 70 flights on my 60 ARF. I bought the Tower .75 engine for it and have been pleased with the performance. This is a real bargain engine at $99 and it runs great and is really strong.

Gary

mars

I too am in the middle of building a Tiger 60.
I have made a few mods. I made it into a tail dragger by moving the main gear forward in the wing bays, and putting a 10* angle on them to kick them forward past the L/E. I've also removed more then 1/2 the dihedral. I dont plan on clipping the wing, or enlarging the control surfaces. I plan on using a 4st in her.
This is my second Goldberg kit. Both share similar building styles.

FHHuber

Update:

I finally got around to making up the pushrods from the supplied materials...

forget using the supplied pushrods no matter what engine is used. The ruddder has almost 1.5 inch freedom due to the pushrod felxing, the elveator has oave 1/2 inch due to flex. Totally unsatisfactory.

To try to stiffen the rods, I painted the dowels with epoxy. It reduced the flex in the dowels but the 2 mm rods might as well be cooked spaghetti. 1.2 inch rudder and just over 3/8 elevator freedom.

That's with no play in the clevices at the contol horns... no hinge slop and a tight fitting Z bend at the servos. The servo arms have a TINY bit of play (standard Futaba 3003 servos) but nowhere near enough to be a source of trouble.

gtisme

I used all stock parts and have no slop in the control surfaces. If you put sharp bends in the wire part of the pushrod linkage you will get plenty of slop. Also I used plastic pushrod exit covers that were just wide enough for the wire to go through which eliminates the slop.

Just my $.02

Gary

FHHuber

My elevator pushrod has no bends and has support at both ends.... (tried slipping yellow nyrod inner over the 2mm and then gluing the blue sheath to a support I built near the servo tray and the same method at the exit slot.) It helped some... but its still woefully flexible.

The rudder got supported the same at the servo end... but because it does have a wide Z bend (to get rid of binding at the slot) I couldn't support it the same at the aft end... so yes, that is why it has more slop than the elevator.

When I replace this junky 2 mm stuff with 4-40 rod and CF arrowshaft... I bet ALL the slop goes away. ([>:]anyone who thinks it won't?[>:])

FHHuber

OK... here's where I sit at this point:

I've still got the stock pushrods in for rudder and elevator (haven't made up the new ones yet.... trying to find some arrowshafts... the local Wal-Mart closed out they archery stuff[:@])

Aside from that... ready to fly. The RJL has problems... stuck on an OLD K&B .61 (a little lighter than the RJL... same bolt holes though.) Battery as far forward under the fuel tank as it will go. Needed a 1 oz in the spinner weight to hit the CG dead on the main spar. I expect to need more nose-weight wth the heavier pushrods Maybe 1/2 oz at the firewall...

I thought people said these things turned out terminally tailheavy?[&:] This would be dead on with no ballast if I was using an O.S. FX .61.

Me-109K4

My Feedback: (1)

Is there a bug going around? I got a tiger for xmas and plan to start it in a few weeks. After 14 years of flying this will be my first build. I plan to use the GMS 76.

Walfam

My Feedback: (1)

Egads, talking about a bug, I had been looking for the tiger 60 with the retracts in them that they had on special a year or two back, and could not find one, so I just bought the regular kit. Of course, the next week end I found the kit with the robart retracts, so I bought it also. YOU See the kit with the robarts was so low, that you could not buy the robarts retracts for that price. So I have two kits. I was told to take one and extend the tail 3" and but fixed gear on it for my
pattern flying, (tail dragger) and they said it was a very good flying plane. My research showed me this was the best
plane I could buy to fly for pattern flying since I could not afford a pattern plane. I have a freestyle and it flys good but
with barn doors on the wings and rudder and elevator, it is a tad two wild and even with expo, its not as smooth as I would
for all the patterns especially spinning.

I was also told to put a pull pull on the rudder .


So I will be starting my kit soon. and I am glad I saw this thread.

a number of guys have this plane at our field and they fly excellent with two or four strokes.

crozzby

Hey guys....
I was thinking about getting the ARF 60 kit. Will it fly as well?
Thanks

gtisme

Yep, the Tiger .60 ARF or kit is a great flying plane.....just not for your first plane.

Gary

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

It's not a trainer, but it sure lands easier than a trainer. It's a purrfect 2nd airplane.

crozzby

Cool Thanks a bunch!
I have had an Eagle and an Ugly Stick, but it’s been around 5 years since I’ve flown but this has really caught my eye.
I don't want it under powered at all so I guess the 91 is a good choice?

mars

I know this is a ARF forum but heres a pic of my progress. Sounds like CG is selling some Tigers!

crozzby

Whoooaaa!!! She's lookin good!

FHHuber

I finally got around to tset flying my Tiger 60.

The K&B .61 is more than adequate... I never had to go above 75% throttle. The 13X6 prop I used turned out to be inadequate load on the engine though... I didn't have a tach, but it sounded like the prop was turning more rpm at half throttle than my RJL .61 turns a 12X6 at full throttle.

The airplane flys very well Its quite a transition from the Fokker Dr1 though and I am havein a bad problem with overcorrecting for level flight. the ailerons ar much more sensitive than I am used to at small deflections.

I'm going to bend a different set of main gear struts. The main gear is just too close to the CG... leaving no weight on the nosewheel, and thus no steering authority. (I balanced the plane on the aft edge of the spar, which is the aft CG limit by the instructions.)

bdtsr

My Feedback: (5)

Well here is a repaired T60 ARF the was crashed (not by me) into the back of my Pathfinder! After fixing it up, I experimented with few things. Flies awesome this way!

Setup as a Taildragger.
Powered with a ST .90, truly unlimited vertical.
Rudder and elevator servos in tail.
16 oz tank installed.
Balanced 1" behind the spar (no weight in nose).

tiggerinmk

I've been keeping an eye on this thread since it started as I too got myself a Tiger 60 ARF about a month ago.
MY LHS was closing down and I had the chance to examine both the 4* 60 and the Tiger side by side. Man, that Oracover SIG uses is dull!

Anyhow, I'm now thinking of strting so I have a couple of questions:

Engines: I have an OS 65LA and an OS FS70II. Depending on whether I rebuild my Funtana, I've also got a Saito 72 laying around. The 65LA actually turns an APC 12x6 @ 12,000rpm, so it's no slouch... For the others, I'd probably use an APC 13x6....
Any thoughts on which might be the best option?

Landing gear:
It looks like tail dragger might be the best option, so I might just go that route. CG just give recommended part numbers for the landing gear but no dimensions. The actual parts don't seem to be available. So, what actual main gear have people been using?
I have the LG from the Funtana which as it is painted white should look good on the ARF. The mounting plate is just slightly wider than the Tiger fuse, so I'll have to drill new mounting holes. The Funtana LG is 4 1/2" high and 12 1/2" wide. Is this about the right size?
Also, should I use 1/4 20 nylon bolts to mount it?

Pushrods:
Any conclusions on whether the supplied pushrods are adequate? I presume with the arrow shafts, you still attach wire pushrods to each end, so the only advantage would be if the arrow shaft is stiffer than a wood dowel? Anyone tried lazer or golden rods on this plane?

P-51B

My Feedback: (5)

Mine is also the ARF 60 (Couldn't pass up $145 NIB). I haven't started on it yet since I have two other planes in it's way, but there are different carbon rod setups, and the advantage is not only stiffness, but also weight savings over wood. The larger arrow shaft setups (like Dave brown sells) use wire pushrods. The other system (sold by central hobbies http://www.ultimate*********.com/central.htm ) uses titanium inserts in the ends, and smaller diameter carbon rods. I have used both, and each has its own application.

bdtsr

My Feedback: (5)

Take a look at my pics above. This way keeps the rods short and stiff. There is plenty of room for the smaller servos like the Hitec 225. The CG is very conservative on these planes. With a .91 or 1.00 4c, battery behind fuel tank, tail dragger setup, and servos in the tail, you will have one excellent setup!

FHHuber

I consider the supplied pushods in the ARF to be inadequate. Too easy for them to bow in flight since bowing ot the elevator pushroud would prevent use of up elevator... I refuse to risk using the flexible 2 mm and light dowel rods. (I'd consider them OK for a Gentle Lady Glider. Not on anything with higher loads.) I replaced the elevator pushrod with 4-40 ended CF arrowshaft. (near the same weight as the dowel and 2 mm...)

The 2 mm rod on the ailerons...probably OK...but I hate to put 2 mm on anything with over a .40. these are very short rods... so there's not much room for them to initiate the flexing. I replaced mine with 4-40.

******

I'm replacing the K&B .61 i was using for test flying of the aircraft. It has adequatepower for continuous loops.. not for unlimited vertical though. (plenty of power for most purposes.) The main reason I'm changing is the old engine's carb is flaky... can't get decent throttle response, and I want to practice for Pattern competition. (gotta have reliable throttle response to fly Pattern correctly.)

I just retired the Fokker Dr1... so the O.S. .91 FS is moving to its new home. (best engine I own.... best airplane I own.) Planning o starting out with a 14X6, and probably never will need more than 60% throttle... (untill someone gets me trying hover practice again...)