phakur

My Feedback: (13)

Question on servos:


I intend on using the 4 aileron servo option.

I have a bunch of new Hitec 425 BB servos that i will run off a 6 volt battery.

Are these servos suitable for the GP Super Stearman?

Note that i am an intermediate pilot and don't intend on doing any major acrobatics with the planeloops, hammerheads, immelmans, etc is about it

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

Another 4 aileron servo question:

Is it better to have the servos wired in parallel, ie two left wing servos Y connected on one channel, two right wing servos Y connected on another channel, or have the upper wing Y connected on one channel and the lower wing Y connected on another channel or have all four aileron servos wired to individual channels?


Thanks-

Larry

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

You really don't need to fit the servos in the top wing, all it does is add weight, add to the assembly and add messy wires.
Two servos in the bottom wing works very well and the link rod between the ailerons which you cant use if using dual servos is scale anyway.

n6iap

I am not sure what your intentions are with your SS but I like making my aircraft as close to scale as is reasonably possible. The full scale Super Stearman uses the connecting rod to add the additional aileron control.

http://www.airventuremuseum.org/coll....asp#TopOfPage

http://www.eddieandreiniairshows.com/airshowinfo.html

Just a thought.

jimm

Shubova

My Feedback: (9)

phakur,
If your interested on page 54 I posted instructions and pictures, how I assembled the wiring using a "Y' for a 4 servo setup. Using this method you end up one wire to plug in. Fortunately the whole assembled plan fit in my mini van so I never had to disassemble the wings.
Here the link to page 54 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_17...54/key_/tm.htm.

There has been a lot of conversation about 2 or 4 servos. After studying all the posts and talking with some club members I decide to go with 4 servos for two reasons. I feel 4 will give you a more positive action and I didn't what to deal with adjustments you have to make with the push rods. I suppose others will disagree with my reasons but I am comfortable with my decision. Of course it is not scale but I'm more interesting in just flying.

Just a note make sure you check the incidence while assembling the wings and cabanas to the fus. The instructions didn't say anything about the incidence and I never owned a bi plane before so I learned the hard way. For my plane I found that setting the bottom wing, upper wing and tail wing all parallel ("0") to each other worked best.

One more thing…if you have never flown a bi plane I suggest you have an experienced pilot take up for the maiden…I'm glad I did.
Hope this helps!
Shubova

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

Shubova-

Wellcouldn't find the posts you were talking about. I did see one post with a pic. I am guessing that you Y connected the two upper wing servos and Y connected the two lower wing servos, Thats OK and I assume it is working alright for you.

Just wondering if there is an advantage to Y connecting the two right servos and Y connecting the two left servos over what you did.

Thanks-

Larry

n6iap

Shubova's description is good and but the link doesn't work for me either. Use the page finder at the beginning or end of the page to goto 54 then search <Ctrl><F> for Shubova

Well worth the time if you plan to use 4 servos.

jimm

Howard

My Feedback: (55)

I chose to use 4 servos because it provides the shortest mechanical connection and the greatest torque to each servo which I think is an advantage in overcoming vibration issues from a gas engine. I am using four separate channels which is the easiest way to adjust each aileron (from the TX) as compared to two Y harnesses. My radio is a Futaba 12Z and the setup was very straight forward. Please let us know which method you select and why this is interesting and useful for the future.

Howard

Shubova

My Feedback: (9)

phakur,
Sorry about the bad link to page 54...what happened is I put a period at the end of the link, after the htm. So that is why it doesn't work.
Here it is again http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_17...54/key_/tm.htm (no period)
Or as n6iap said you can just use the page finder.
The things I like about my set up is it is clean with only one wire out of the top wing. I rapped the wire with white electrical tape and used a white zip tie to secured the wire to the cabana so you barely notice it is there. And you don't have to use separate channels.
I have a friend, an old timer, who has built and flown models for many years. He once told me "The less adjustments you do with your radio the better off you will be". So that is what I do with all my planes. I use the KISS method when building a plane.
The adjustments are in the linkage and I didn’t have any problems doing it that way. You just have to make sure your adjustments are adequately secured. Also if you ever lose the radio settings, which I have done, you don't have to start all over.
But as I always you do what you think is best for you. What ever you do I can tell you from my experience your in for some real excitement flying this bi plane.
For those of you who don't know what KISS means…Keep It Simple Stupid.
Good Luck,
Shubova

Shubova

My Feedback: (9)

An addition to my last post…
Once I set up my plane using the method I stated I never had any problems with the ailerons.

Shubova[8D]

52jaws

My Feedback: (65)

Its actually not a spinner but a giant machined cover made of thick cast aluminum. It retains the gearing and a large spring inside that force the blades to what we know as flat pitch. When the engine is running, engine oil pressure is pumped into a cavity/cylinder (much like a hydraulic ram) against the spring that is within this hub and that creates the desired "pitch" the pilot selects for the flight condition. The other is an true "spinner" if you will to aid aerodynamically....that would actually cover the above mentioned assembly.
Not trying to be a "know it all" but have as a mechanic I have disassebled my share of these.
The spinner the GP Super Stearman comes with is actually inaccurate if that is the actual plane they were modeling...a hub spinner would be much more accurate.
Paul

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Unfortunatly not mine Gary, I built it for a friend, I have the standard one and it was nice to see the two of them flying together last week.

If anything happened mine I think I would replace it with the Super version as it does look really well.

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

Hi all
Howard-I would like to know what engine you are using. I am planning on using a Saito 150 but am considering going gas, so just want to know.

Anyway, I have decided to go with 4 servos, and based on a couple of comments and some discussion with two of the trainer pilots at my club, I am going to Y connect each wing, so use 2 channels for the ailerons. I will adjust linkage to zero things out if needed.

We'll see how it goes.

Larry

Howard

My Feedback: (55)

I am using a new rear carb DLE 30 for power. I expect to maiden in the next week or so. Everything is in place except the cowl, mouting the gear and then checking the CG and control surface deflection. The Saito 150 is a great engine and exceptionally reliable. Let me know what you decide and I will post my maiden flight results.

Howard

FlyerJeff

My Feedback: (5)

Is a G20 to small for this plane?

lablover

Would the DLE 30 be a better choice for this SS or would the New DLE 20 be OK?

lablover

OK

DLE 30 it is

Mr. Canadian

The DLE 30 is a great motor for this plane. It's got the extra power if ya need it

Capt. Ron

Dle 30 for sure !! Best bang for your buck. I have a dle 50 on mine and it has to much power. The 30 would be great. Good luck

Capt. Ron

You all so might want to add smoke. It makes this plane look like the real thing. I love it !!!

FlyerJeff

My Feedback: (5)

Picked up a Saito 1.50 for my SS and a Pitts type muffler; the best I can do is 6-3/4 (Front of thrust washer to firewall) from the firewall, the recommended is 6-1/4, how big of a problem is this going to be if 6-3/4 is as good as it get???
Thanks!

Howard

My Feedback: (55)

Mine is also just about 6 3/4 inch from the firewall in order for the pitts muffler to clear the firewall. I have been told that having a little more distance between the prop and cowl provides better performance when the cowl is very large. Mine flies much better than I expected. You should be just fine. As a matter of fact my new GP Waco is being processed in the Tower warehouse as we speak and I plan to do the same thing and have about 10mm additional distance between the cowl and prop just like my Stearman.

Howard

FlyerJeff

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks for the Quick Reply!
Sounds good.

Jim Henley

Here are a couple of shots of my Super Stearman with a Syssa 30 cc gasser. I had to rebuild the lower fuse between the forward wing saddle and the firewall, due to my Saito seizing up. This is my first gasser but I have not found any bad reports on the Syssa, as far as
its performance. What do you-all run for fuel filters? I have a Sullivan "Crap Trap" I guess they are compatable with gasoline.
Thanks!

handyman 220

My Feedback: (54)

Glad to hear others are putting the DLE 30 in this plane. I have the 30 in a BH Ryan 120 right now,but it is eventually headed for the SS. I'm happy to hear that the distance from the firewall to prop, can be extended for muffler clearance without hurting performance. Trying hard to resist the urge to pull the trigger on the GP Waco. So many kits, too little time.