Jerryballs

My Feedback: (19)

MX240,
For the KMP Cessna these are the ticket! You order the Turbo Mufflers from RCU market place or contact them direct at [email protected]
You can position them where you want and you get tank pressure. I tried everything else. here are some installation pics.
Jerry

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks jerry...That looks very nice and neat. Your black Skymaster looks very nice. I live about ten miles from the end of a airport runway and use to hear Skymasters go over. They have a sound that is different from any twin sound. There is no harmonizing twin sound. I haven't seen a Skymaster go over in at least ten years.
Here are some pictures of my Hanger nine C-182 seats in the Skymaster. They fit really well and fill up that stark bare space. I had already added a raised floor to house my radio equipment and a person could extend it to the front.
Some ideas....I bet a person could ask on this website for some of these seats and get them as I have seen other people that have this Hanger nine C-182 and do not use the seats. I didn't use my seats as Hanger Nine used dark tinted windows and you can't see inside that well.

RemoteJets

Whooow, those seats looks really great[sm=teeth_smile.gif] (now I also want a set of time in mine[]).

I hope to have my Robart nosegear in tomorrow, then some installation and hopefully with some good weather this weekend some flights.

I`ll keep you posted

Jerryballs

My Feedback: (19)

MX240,
Nice seats...they look great and do fill that huge void. I have not thought that far ahead and was going to have to figure out where to come up with some. Thanks...I'll have to put out a bulletin to 182 owner's and see who did not use theirs!

RC Specialties

MX240 and Bosmodelair,

The TurboHeader muffler is only advertised on RCU at this time. I am working on a website. Let me know if you need info.

Jim

RemoteJets

Finally the nose gear is arrived:


And it needs to be something like this:


Mounted:


ans strut compressed:

RemoteJets

And almost finished:

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

ALL RIGHT. The nose gear looks really nice. Can you unhook the links to mount the nose wheel pant?
What would the postage be to ship a nose gear overseas?
A Hint...suggestion.....Do NOT drill any holes in the pant till AFTER you are happy with the position of the pant on the fork and the glue has dryed. By this I mean the holes on each side of the pant to remove the wheel...if you had too...myself, I wouldn't drill those holes till you need too.
And guys I tryed "Shoe Glue" on my windows and I STILL don't like the stuff . I still like GE clear silicone best. It doesn't run. But HECK that is just me....Hard to change a old person's mine.

Below a couple of pictures of my hatch spring loaded hold-downs.
Now if the weather is good this weekend??????
Some slow fight at a high altitude?
Nope...mine isn't ready yet!

RemoteJets

The nose gear is from Robart and why they shouldn`t sen it overseas, we order a lot from the you guys so the other way arround shouls also work.

Yes, the scissors are fastend with a C-clip see here:


I`m trying to mount the pant in such way that there`s only a hole in the top of the pant.
So wheel removal is only possible when the pant is removed.

I still need to make some covers for the tail booms :-(


About the wheater this weekend that is not looking good.
80% of rain and 4 bft (the wind is no problem but the rain is), so I don`t think this bird will fly this weekend but who knows the wheater is better than expected and I hope it is.

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

COOL
I didn't know how they came apart.
Removeing the pant???? MMMMMMMMMMM
Maybe drill and tap a 4-40 hole in the side of the fork on each side. Shouldn't weaken it much???
Be interesting what you come up with....then I will say "Gee I wish I had thought of that". lol
That is what is so good about this site.
Jim

tkapfer

Really cool.

I liked the spring loaded hatch latches as well. Didn't think of something like that.
The last time I flew, I just left the covers off, since I have 8 screws in each one which makes it a job to put on and take off each time.

Great on the nose gear as well.

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

Tkapfer & Bosmodeliar,
Some thoughts on those darn haches...as you know they are not even close to the shape you need.
I took some 3/16 soft balsa and just traced the shape I needed off the booms..front/back.
I had to use that thick of balsa to get enough area for the 5 min epoxy to hold the shape while I held it.
When you trace the outline.....cut the piece out a little undersize. The first hatch took me about three hours to do. The second about two hours and a few "refreshments" inbetween formers.
On the one hatch I have only two formers and the other has three to hold the shape.

Finally...things are starting to come together quickly...about time. Still want to break my 91's in on a test stand before I fly. The weather here is COLD. HIGHS in the teens.

RemoteJets

So, this is what the nose wheel pant should like like if mounted:




Now I find a nice way for fasten the pant but thats something for next time

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

Looks nice Bosmodelair.
Isn't it nice to work with a "finished" product?
These ARF's are nice for us people that are tired of building from scratch...but being careful not to mess up the paint can be a pain sometimes.
I try to "build" one airplane from plans or a kit once year...just to have something that is different at these fly-in's I go to in the summer.
The last two "build" kits have been big (35lb) bi-planes...and I hate to build wings..go figure. lol

Bosmodelair....maybe fly the Skymaster without the nose wheel pant for the second flight??

I plan to run my radio antenna down the tail boom...The tail boom that will not have the elevator servo wires.
Hopefully I will not have to dismount the tail booms from the fuselage very often???

RemoteJets

A "finished" product is nice but there is always more to do with it then axpected, it takes always longer than you want.

I like to build but most of the time we buy very old for most people writen off aircraft and overhaul them and make them as new.
In this way we can fly big and a lot of different aircrafts against low costs (the most aircrafts, 32 in total now, 17 flying of that, I own with my flying buddy)
And I have to say that`s a lot more work than the "finished" Arf`s :-)

I also have more planes on my building board not a good sign but that`s just the way I work.


About the Skymaster, no flying today, it has rained allday overhere so we planned a building day instead of flying.
Didn`t do anything on the Skymaster[&o] but a little more on the 3mtr (10ft) Hercules


Flying without the nosepant is no option, if the plane gonna fly I will try to fly in complete

The antenna wire down a tail boom is an option, although I will need removing it all the time to transport the plane.

Hopefully within the coming weeks some spare time and flying wheater.

RemoteJets

Hopefully the Skymaster will go in the air again next saturday.

For now started with adding cowl flaps:


1 cut loose:

RemoteJets

And the cowl flaps almost finished:

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

That looks very nice. Never thought of doing that. That looks better then the big round oval hole I have cut in the bottom of my cowl. The re-paint job looks very well done.
The OS 120 sticks out futher then I thought it would. My OS 91's have just the end of the valve cover showing....which is ok for the aft engine BUT I think I am going to need to cut a cooling slot in front of the cylinder for cooling. I don't think only the air intakes by the prop spinner is going to work. I thought of ducting the air to the engine cylinder...but it would be a sharp turn.

The next time you fly your bird see if I need additional aileron deferential...more up then down???
Or maybe some added rudder for the turns??

WOW a C-130 herky bird. That C-130 and B-17 are both my favorites. I have come very close to building a C-130, but just never could get all my other projects done.
Many years ago I had the privilege??? to ride (not as a crew man) in and out of a few uninproved air strips in a Herk and experance the maxium performance of these beasts. Years later the wing spars had to be rebuilt because of stress cracks. I saw first hand why!

RemoteJets

Thanxs, but the re-painting still needs to be done.

First I want to close the opening in the front of the engine more, so only thevalve cover is sticking out.
And I`m thinking of installing some clear plastic for the taxi- and landinglight, this will looks a lot nicer i guess.


In this way the air exit is more scale then just "cut some holes in the bottom engine cowl" ;-)
The exit opening is not completly according to the "air inlet and exit rules" (30 - 50% more exit opening then inlet) but I1m not affraid of a running heat engine.

First the cooling air flow is enopugh in this way, second the plane is powerfull enough and I won`t fly full throttle all the time.
Air guide baffles inside the cowl is the best way to go but with the inlet heigh in the nose and the exit on the bottom there will be enough air passing throught the cilinder fins I guess.

So I`m not gonna use baffles.


For now I don`t have aileron differential, but I did use a little manually rudder input during turns as I can remember.
I hope I can sort that out more during less wind and I will keep you informed about that.



Little off-topic:
Some pictures of the Herky you can find here: BosModelAir Herky
wingspan: 9ft 11"
fuselage: 7ft 6"
weight: 26lbs
engines: 4x Webra 60

We also bought this airplane second hand as is, only modified the engine servo`s.
Soon I hope to maiden this one, when is deppending on the wheater.

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks for the Herk pictures. I looked at everyone of them. Those four 61's will sound nice.

Yesterday (Sunday) I looked at that big hole behind the windshield and decided to fill it in.
I took some thin aluminum and made a glare shield for a old instrument panel that I had left over from another plane. I use a piece of heavy paper to get the shape right and then traced it onto the sheet.
At first I thought of running the aluminum up-to the back of the windshield but thought that made the panel too high...so cut it flush with the opening and put wooden blocks to hold it to shape.
Notice I in-set the wooden blocks in the corners to allow for the small wood screws heads to miss the windshield. The top of the instrument shapes the panel and is held in with two woodscrews so I can take everything apart to get to the front. I know it might not be in a scale position but it is just a fun fly airplane for me to enjoy on weekends.

RemoteJets

Whow, that looks real nice [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

Esspecially with the seats and instrument panel.
And it`s a fun fly plane??? no way , it`s almost scale as it is now

Keep up the good work.

RemoteJets

The cowl looked like this:


And now is this:



A lot better I guess.


Coming weeks I also want to close the hole in top pf the front cowl:


And the aft cowl, so only the valve cover is sticking out:

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

mmmmmm Yes, you do good repair work. BUT, I now wounder....you have closed in your front eingine like I have mine. Do you think enough air will get to the cylinder fins to cool? That was what I was talking about in my other post.....that I might have to cut a "slot" up the front of my cowl to get enough air to my engine cylinder fins... You are right in saying the air intakes on this plane are high.
Just some thoughts.
I have painted my glare panel a flat black this morning. Might have a couple more pictures of that tonight. On the BARE aluminum panel I primed it with a gray etching primer to see if I can get the black paint to stick better. Will have a picture of the spray can. I would guess you prime real airplanes on the aluminum parts??
Jim

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

A couple more pictures. It really helped to close that in and paint it black.
Here is a primer can that I used before painting the black. I hope it makes things stick better.
That biplane that is in my profile has lots of aluminum sheeting on the landing gear farings and covers over the fake engine cylinders (like a J-3 Cub) I got done painting that plane and put some masking tape on the landing gear and the yellow paint all came off in one sheet. I learned my lesson.
Take care

Joe007

I am putting together a Skymaster 337 and would like to install the Robart front nose gear. Can someone help me with the part # from Robart and maybe a price that it would cost?
Thanks,
Joe