jaybo292

Anyone have a Wild Stik 120 yet?Looking for a large stick type plane for first gasser.Not many to choose from.My LHS has one but I don`t want to get one until I get more info or see one.
Thanks Jay

RCAddiction

My Feedback: (87)

I saw it last week at my LHS. Very similar to an Ultrastick 120 with a color scheme that I personally find quite repulsive. We actually took a vote at the LHS and decided that it was the #1 ugliest scheme we'd ever seen. 2nd worst was the scheme Dick Pettit did to a plain white Dave Patrick plane, as seen on the cover of RCReport. It was pretty vile. But all of that stuff is really personal. I'd see no reason to pay much more money for a Goldberg (aka Lanier) stick vs a Hangar 9 Ultrastick 120 Lite. That having been said, the Morris Hobbies Jerry's Big Boy ARF is a more fun flying plane than a US120 and is a terrific first gasser for a G23, G26, MVVS 1.6, RCS 1.40, or Roto 25.

RVator

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Another vote for the Jerry's Big Boy. I have flown both a Ultra Stick,Ultra Stick Lite and a Big Boy with a G-26 and the Big Boy was the best. Its only 219.00 from Morris Hobbies.

suitcase

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got one and love it.

jaybo292

On the JBB what has to be beefed up? Firewall,landing gear.What do you have to do to get proper CG?Servos in tail. Do you use 4-40 rods?Do you mount the gas tank at CG?
Thanks for your advice,Jay

RCAddiction

My Feedback: (87)

jaybo, please take a look at this thread. I posted what I did and a couple of photos, including the rear mounted servos.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_31...tm.htm#3114582

I forgot to mention that I had TNT make me a 1-piece landing gear, thicker and stronger than the stock gear, which was a 2-piece design as supplied with the kit version. Suitcase, did the ARF come with a 1 piece or 2 piece landing gear? Is it holding up okay for you?

I used 4-40 pull-pull all around for the twin elevator servos and pull-pull for the rudder servo which was mounted in the servo compartment. I used a 12 oz fuel tank mounted in the nose compartment for convenience. You can mount it anywhere, including locating it at the CG if you want. There is room to do it there. However, I have not noticed much CG shift during flight, because it uses the fuel at a very low rate. I've never used up more than 5/8 of that 12 oz gas tank, and that was only with a very long flight flogging the heck out of it!!

RVator

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Suitcase's ARF came with 1 piece gear with lightning holes in it. With a 17 inch prop it still has 3 or 4 inches of clearance. The gear is a little soft but it really lands slow so it is no big deal. His tank is in the front and it doesn't use much fuel. Both elevator servo's are inside and are pull pull. He put the rudder servo in the back and a hatch under the bottom at the tail for the battery. It only took 1 1/2 oz of lead to balance.

RCAddiction

My Feedback: (87)

Do you know what his all up weight is? My kit built version is accurately weighed at 10lbs, 12oz, dry, but otherwise ready to fly.

jaybo292

Thanks alot for the info.I`ve almost made up my mind to get a JBB.
Thanks,Jay

Tweet

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Anyone build and fly a Wild Stick 120? What did it come at for weight?

balsa brain

Jaybo,I paid $199.99 for my JBB on Ebay useing buy it now plus shipping which was somewhere around $25.00.

mass balance

I have just finished and flown a Wild Stik 120. Mine came in slightly under 10 lb. with a Saito FA100 (that's a digital bathroom scale weight, my accurate scale only goes to 5 lb). I used Futaba S3151 digital servos for ailerons and elevators, 3004s for flaps, a 3305 metal gear on the rudder, and a little GWS Park L on the throttle. I have an APC 15 x 8 prop on it. I mounted dual 1450 Hydrimax batteries behind the rudder servo to keep her from being nose heavy.

I was going to replace my totalled Ultra Stick 60 with another one, but Hangar 9 is out of them, as well as the US 120s, until January, so I ordered the Goldberg WS 120 through my LHS. I think the Goldberg plane is built extremely well, maybe better than the Ultra Stick I had (it had several broken wing ribs). The covering was truly flawless, not a wrinkle or loose edge. I may replace the 3mm clevises later, but I used essentially all the kit hardware.

This plane will be my (2nd) aerobatic trainer. I wanted something big and fairly cheap that would fly slow, and I wanted to experiment with flaps and crow. My 3D-capable test pilot could hover the plane with this engine and prop, but he said it's marginal and doesn't have quite enough thrust to accelerate out of the hover. The Saito is not fully broken-in yet, and a different prop may work better for that. I found it to be as responsive as I dared, able to fly very slowly, and it looks very capable of getting plenty wild as the name implies. It's gonna be a blast to fly!

It will be fairly easy to lighten the plane with a wood prop, foam wheels, and a cf replacement for the huge landing gear (if anyone makes them). I like the stork leg gear, but they are heavy. I got a lot of ribbing about this plane at the field yesterday, but after seeing her fly, I think a couple of other guys are thinking about buying one. I think firewall reinforcement would be in order to fit a gas engine, but it looked strong enough for my FA100 or a 120 Surpass.

Regards,
Mass Balance

Blindsides

My Feedback: (4)

I bought a new Wild Stik 120 and maiden-ed it last Friday evening. I used a G-26 with all HiTec gear.

It was a beautifull handling airplane, use big throws! It is pretty docile and the recommended low rate throws will not give you enough elevator for a good landing.

As for the landing, as for having to switch it to high rates to land it all the good thing about the plane left there.

I had a nice smooth landing and the gear immediatly folded in the firewall and engine shot out of the front of the plane. After really looking at the pieces when getting them back to my truck I found that the glue joints on the gear and the firewall were virtually non existant.

BUYER BEWARE! If you have this model put in extra support and make sure the glue joints on the fire wall and main gear are in good condition!

I contacted Goldberg and they will not do anything about it, as far as I am concerned they should remedy the problem as you can not even see the firewalls joints and you have to go inside the fuselage to see the main gear joints.

I was really excited about the plane and I can fix it with not much hassle, it is the idea of it all. I have been flying Goldberg products for years and they thank me by saying it is my problem it came apart on the landing. No matter how easy it was and the lack of glue![&o][&o][&o][&o]

jpartis

mass balance,

Do you have any pics of you plane? I would like to see what she looks like...

Also, did you set your throws at the recommended settings or did you have to go higher on the elevator?

jpartis

jpartis

Why didn't you set your low rates elevators to a little higher setting?

Does the plane really require high rates to land?

After reading your post, I think I will set mine up a tad on the elevators only.

Also, I don't see how a soft smooth landing as you stated could possible yank the landing gear right out? I know the stork legs have a lot of leverage but not that much right?

Did you epoxy the gear block or beef up the gear in any way before you flew it?
I was told to use CA glue on all the joints in the fuse which are accessible.

What my plans are is to cut a couple of inches off the fuse so that my 26cc will balance with no other weight. There doesn't seem to be any thrust angle in the firewall so this should be easy to do. I will then rebuild the firewall stronger in the opening. I also plan to at least epoxy the top of the landing gear block with fiberglass tape.

Yep, I totally agree with you about getting support from them but now, it's not goldberg anymore as they sold out to someone else. I bought my plane for $149.99 so its not that big of a deal to me...

My projected weight should be around 9 - 10 lbs with the following:

-Futaba 3305 for all except rudder jr xxxx 150oz torque (sorry forgot which one lol)
-Zenoah 26cc elec ign
-2 - 1500 mah batteries
-carbon fiber push rods
-other stock hardware
-16oz gas tank
-dx7 receiver

Take care...

jpartis

jaybo292,

Did you ever finnish up your wild stik?

If so, do you mind sharing what you did with us?

Any tips would be great...

fokkerdseven

Interesting comments on the wild Stik, some for, some against. Bit like music really, one man's music is another man's noise! I finished mine today, and hope to maiden it tomorrow. I have a Roto 25 gas engine in mine, and Spectrum gear. The Roto is quite heavy when you include the ignition pack and battery. I don't like batteries in long extenders, especially with possible ignition pick-up, so its in the front behind the firewall. This makes it very nose heavy, but I did eventually balance it out with a lot of metal under the tail. and the RX battery was aft of the rudder servo.
I thought the quality of the kit was good, the quality of the hardware, especially the clevises, was pretty awful. I threw all mine away and fitted the nylon clevises with the locking keepers.
I'll see how it goes, I hate hauling around lumps of metal that is just for balance, if it all goes well I may shorten the nose a bit, there is no offset or downthrust, so it should be easy. As its gas, the tank is under the front of the wng anyway.

jpartis

fokkerdseven,

Don't add weight to the plane to balance it.

Cmon, it doesn't take that much work to move the firewall back 2 inches.

Here, you will be reducing the weight and still getting the balance you need.

It is so very simple to do with an exacto knife and a straight edge.

Since, as you mentioned the firewall has no right/down thrust in it, all you have to do is take a straight edge of the width you want to chop off (2" works great!) and just
line it up with the front of the firewall and cut with the knife. Then clean up the firewall, cut notches in the sides to fit the firewall back in, and shim up with a piece of plywood on the bottom (I think 1/4") and glue it back in with 30 minute epoxy. I cut a hatch on top to access the rear of the firewall and to put my EI and Battery in there.
I LOVE HAVING THIS NOW!!

Well, a guy at the field ran into me while I was lumbering around and caused me to crash my plane!

I was so pissed off!

The first thing I did was to purchase another plane, and have already started building my new one.

Since I know exactly what to do this time (building the same exact way I built the other one since it worked so well), and since none of the hardware was damaged and all
of it fits perfectly, I'm already 1/2 way done with the build in a couple of hours.

Don't be lazy to just go ahead and take your time to build it the way I suggested just to get it up in the air. It wont take you that long to do it since I've already worked
out all the details... It's up to you though...

Oh, and by all means, if you really want to have some fun, setup crow and use it for very slow/low manouvering. It makes the plane so very STABLE that it handles almost as nicely as a profile. Almost...

Good luck and have fun with your plane...

- John

fokkerdseven

Thanks John! I'll give it a go!!!
Tom

djcase

John, I have both Zenoah G26 and FCGF 20cc side carb available to install in a new Wild Stick 120 purchased this past week. How did you set up your throttle and choke? I intend to follow your guidelines for my plane as they seem very sound advice. If I go with the 20cc I may not need to cut the nose because it weighs so much less than the Zenoah and uses only an 8 oz tank.

Regards,

Dale Case
Oakdale, MN