rcpilot_971

My Feedback: (50)

would a supertiger 3000 work on this plane or is it to big and would a hitec 5945 work on the rudder or would a 5925 be better the 5925 is faster

airwethead

A Super Tigre 3000 would definitely work, but A 2300 would be even better. The 3000 is one of the "big tigers" which means heavier, but runs well on low/no nitro. If you believe the manufacturers numbers, the 2300 is actually more powerful, and quite a bit lighter. I am putting a 2300 on my cap, but that is because I happened to have one at my disposal. If you have a 3000 at hand, I would go ahead and use it. It should pull it around the sky just fine.

Either one of those two hitec digitals should work for the rudder. You have to decide if you want the speed of the 25's or the muscle of the 45's. I am not a skilled enough pilot to need the speed, so I am going with the muscle.

rcpilot_971

My Feedback: (50)

Thanks airwethead I

have a supertiger 3000 just siting hear. also I bought the plane used and the guy had it set up with single elevator servo I was wondering if a single 5945 would work on the elevator

Thanks Tim

GalenB

My Feedback: (18)

Since you have the ST 3000 sitting around I would suggest that you use it. I am a little biased since that is what I am putting in my H9 CAP 232... I am not done with mine (too many projects and too little time), but I am planning to mount my ST 3000 inverted with an on board glow system. This will help preserve the scale lines and will make lateral balance easier. I have a Perry pump and carb on mine and my bench runs have really made me a beleiver in this combo. It's very easy to start and with a 20X6 prop you will not lack thrust. The 3000 is also lighter than comparable gas engines and likes low nitro fuel. My plan is to either mix YS 20/20 blend 1:1 with a methonal or to mix my own fuel. Once you get your cost of glow fuel down to ~$8.00 per gallon the 3000 won't be all that expensive to run... It also sounds really cool too!

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

I have a ST3000on my Sig Cap 231EX. The Breitling is a few pounds lighter than the H9 232. I am running an OS7D carb and Omega 5% fuel with a stock boxer muffler. The ST pulls the Sig Cap around like its nothing. I'm hovering the plane here at 6000' with a Zinger 18-10. Probably about 1/2 or 5/8 throttle for hovering, and full throttle puch for unlimited vertical.

Only thing I don't like about it is the fuel costs and the stupid muffler bolts are falling out all the time. Only reason I haven't lost the muffler- is because the cowl keeps it from falling out. I ordered a J-Tec muffler this week. Hopefully it will stay attatched better. I have the stock muffler bolted to the header, but the header bolts keep coming out of the engine. Lock-tite doesn't work- tried it.

Looks like I'm going to have an MVVS 2.15 gasser for the plane. A nice guy in florida and myself came up with a trade for my Moki 135 and some cash for his MVVS gasser. Can't wait to see it.

roadhor

My Feedback: (21)

Could some one tell me the correct CG & control throws. I have one of these I'm putting an MVVS 160 gasser in. The plane has the servos mounted in the rear, so I'm wondering if it'll balance like that. I'm going to be using Hitech 5625 digitals on everything. Thanks for the help, Rob

flynm

My Feedback: (24)

Go with the bigger engine. I have two of these planes. When I was first reading about what engine to put in the plane, everyone was saying the Saito 180 would be the engine for the plane. I live at an altitude of 3900 foot and the
engine will not pull the plane out of a hover. As a matter of fact. loops had to have speed. I tried just about everything from 30% fuel to Denver's own magnum fuel #2 with various props from 16X6,8, 10 , 17x6, 8, 18x6. Nothing helps.
Now I'm onto my second plane and I'm putting a ZDZ 40 in the plane. Now we'll see what happens!!!!!

BTW, what do you think about using two 425's in for each elevator half, and aileron half? I'm planning on using a 605 for the rudder. The servos will be used in the tail with rocket city linkages.

With my first plane (Saito 180), I have used the same servos with no problems. They are mounted in the fuselage with carbon fiber arrow shafts. The only thing that concerns me is that the ZDZ is so much more powerful. What are your opinions????

Dan

rmh

ZDZ40 on the 72" span H9-is a great match- seen/built/ flown a few of em- .
weight is 13.25 lbs _IF you put one elev servo anone rudder servo in kit positions- also the CG will turn out right - the tank needs a relocating as does th engine servo - -the wing loading is a bit too high - BUT- the model will do the entire Unlimited IMAC sequence- quite nicely - as for 3D- too heavy - plenty of power but just too heavy.

flynm

My Feedback: (24)

Hey Dick,
Question one, I'm putting the servos in the tail, have you seen this setup on any of the caps? Will it be two tail heavy?

Question two, where did they relocate the servo and tank? I'm currently trying to plan my radio install. I was thinking about putting all the engine stuff up front and the radio equipment in the back.

The last comment dissappoints me, I wanted a 3d capable plane. What manuevers will it do/not do?

Thanks
Dan

flynm

My Feedback: (24)

How did you guys mount your canopy? I have metallic blue around the part where the canopy goes and don't want to use glue and hide it with trim tape.

Pictures always help.

Dan

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

I'm almost done. I need to put in a remote fueler and add some fuel lines to the tank. I need to install a remote glow system to avoid cutting holes in the cowl. And I need to add some covering on the bottom of the fuselage. Then final balance. It's pretty darn close now.

This plane was extremely tail heavy when I got started. I wanted a gasser for this plane, but my trade negotiations on the MVVS 2.15 were getting too complicated and I already had a NIB MDS 148 in the shop. So, the plane sits here on the bench with an MDS 1.48 for power.

I had to get really sneaky in order to balance this bird. I wound up putting two Hitec 625MG elevator servos in the tank compartment. I put each servo against the fuselage side and cut holes in the tank floor. I then dropped the servos in and screwed them to the tank floor. The servos are located just in front of the second former (F2) in the fuselage. I'm calling the firewall former one (F1).

I put two 1650 niMH 6volt packs in the tank compartment. The batteries are against the firewall and laying flat. One battery runs the reciever, 2 aileron servos (625MG) and 2 elevator servos(625MG). The other battery is connected to a Y-harness and runs the rudder only. The Y-harness is modified to only let power go into the servo, and not the reciever. The rudder is a Hitec 805BB giant scale servo. 334oz.in at 6Volts. It idles at 8mah and draws 700mah to run it with NO load. Gawd only knows how much it pulls under a load!!?? The reciever is in between the two elevator servos in a little box that I made out of balsa and foam rubber.

I put the tank on top of the reciever and batteries. I covered the reciever and batteries with a little balsa shelf. The tank just barely fits, but it works.

My balance is almost perfectly level, but just a snitch on the tail heavy side. A prop and the remote fueler will probably get me right on the money. Unfortunately, this plane won't have a pilot. I just can't bring myself to add 2 or 3 oz of lead to the nose just for the sake of having a pilot.

The plane weighs approximately 11.5 or 11.75 pounds.

I'll try to get a pic of the plane posted.

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Throttle servo on outside of firewall mounted inverted between engine mounts.

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Finished model.

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Elevator servos in tank compartment. Reciever is in center under hatch and batteries are against firewall.

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Rudder servo with pull-pull and elevator pushrods. Red sleeve is antena wire tube. Two switches for plane mounted on side of fuselage.

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Tailwheel assembly

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Bottom stripe, so my poor eyes can tell which way is up and which way is down.

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Fuel tank on top of reciever and batteries. It's a tight fit.

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Front and top view.

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Ya know what's really cool?

I didn't have to cut a bunch of holes in my cowl. Only one hole for needle valve. The cylinder fits inside with room to spare. I have a remote glow system that I'll probably hook up. That way I won't have to cut a hole for the glow ignighter.

Exhaust will exit the cowl at the rear opening.

roadhor

My Feedback: (21)

Rcpilet : How far back is your CG ? How far back do the plans say to put it ? And also what are the recommended control throws? Thanks in advance for the info. I have one of these with an MVVS 1.6 gasser I'm trying to set up & need your help. Let us know how the 148 pulls it around at that elevation. Thanks , Rob

rtn9105

My Feedback: (35)

The manual says the CG is 5-5/8" from the leading edge measured at the fuselage. The control throws are:

Ailerons measured furthest inboard:
Low rate 1/2" up 7/16" down
High rate 3/4" up 5/8" down
3-D rate 3/4" up 5/8" down

Elevator measured furthest inboard:
Low rate 1-1/8" up 1-1/8" down
High rate 1-3/4" up 1-3/4" down
3-D rate 4" up 4" down

Rudder measured at the bottom:
Low rate 3" right / left
High rate 4-1/2" right / left
3-D rate 4-1/2" right / left

roadhor

My Feedback: (21)

rtn9105 : Thank you , now I can get this thing ready to hit the sky.

rtn9105

My Feedback: (35)

no problem, good luck with your flight.

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

RTN9105 has all the measurements provided.

I can't get more than about 3.5" of travel on my elevators. I must have glued my hinges in too tight.

I did cover all my hinge gaps with ultracote. I covered the hinge gaps on both sides of all the control surfaces. I don't know how much good it will do. I had never done this before. It wasn't too hard, and it sure makes the hinges look clean.

I uncovered my wing on the bottom; only over the open rib bays. I put in some balsa wood in every other rib bay and glued my Robart hinges in that way. I wanted the extra wood for the hinges to grab onto.

I uncovered my elevators in the inboard corners near the hinge line and put in some hardpoint dowels. This was for my Rocket City control horns (6/32" screws).

I used 6 Robarts on each aileron with one CA hinge out on the wingtip for stability. The wingtip bay is sheeted with balsa and I could not get any wood in there as a backer for a Robart hinge. The first Robart hinge is about 3" from the wingtip. So, thats why I put one CA hinge at the wingtip.

I used Great planes small hinges on the elevator end rudder. These are the little hinges that look just like a Robart hinge, except they are only about 1 1/4" long and they're white. Same thing as a Robart, just smaller. I used a 1/8" drill bit for the holes. The reason I used these hinges was because the leading and trailing edges of the elevators and stab are only about 3/8" thick balsa. By the time I drilled a hole in them for a Robart hinge, there wouldn't be very much wood left, and the Robarts would have stuck through almost completely, with most of the hinge being not attatched to anything.

I used 7 of the Great Planes hinges on each elevator half. I used 12 of these hinges on my rudder. The hinges on the rudder are about 1" apart.

I don't know if these hinges will tear out or not. I'm pretty confident that they will work just fine. I used plenty of them. I probably used too many, but thats okay.

As you can see from the pics posted above, I had some pretty long elevator pushrods. They are Sullivan 4-40 rods. I had to buy the 48" long rods and cut them down for a good fit. I think that the rods are about 38" long. I braced the rods up with one brace on the CG with a piece of light ply glued to the rudder servo rail. Then, I glued another brace in with some triangle stock, between the servo rails and the back of the wing. I added another brace at the former at the back of the wing saddle. And a final brace about half way back in the tail section. I made it from light ply and drilled lightening holes in it. I think the rods are braced up pretty good. Hopefully they won't flex while in flight. I have held onto the elevator surfaces with my hand and then moved the sticks on the TX. The rods don't seem to be flexing at all.

I'm a bit undecided on how to install the canopy. I don't trust glue, and doudle stick tape looks kinda ugly IMO. One friend suggested some #2 sheetmetal screws through the canopy and right into the fuselage sides.

Anyone got any neat ways of attatching a canopy to your planes?