TOFAST4U2C

My Feedback: (2)

So far I only have positive issues to report with the CMP Katana 140 And the Giles 202 140. The Giles CA hinges have been replaced with CMP branded 3/16 hinge points and Horny hinge points for all controls. So I guess Alex has been getting the point across. The landing gear still needs replacement but still a great value for the buck. I dont see the Giles 140 on the AK site now though? Why Alex? Can you tell us who is making the hinge points for you as well?

AK Models

FYI, CMP does not make electric Spitfire, just to keep records straight....

panicosc

Just finished my Yak 54 50 size cmpro. Building was very straight forward had no problems building it - great looking model. I powered it with an OS 70 four stroke and installed the battery pack under the tank. I did everything by the book (instructions).
So now the bad news.............Tail Heavy !!!!!!!!!!! According to my estimations even if I move the battery pack on the engine mount it will still be tail heavy. Is anyone else had the same problem? How much weight did you add to balance it ?
Any other tips or help is most wellcome.

Hog78

My Feedback: (36)

Hello, I just unpacked and inspected my ak model 330 50cc arf it looks to be a carbon copy of the BME if not the same the instructions say BME aeromaster models on them anyway after inspection i found that this arf must have been a factory second as throughout the fuselage there are breaks in the formers and places where assemblers patched the breaks also the wing tube is way too tight even tried to powder it down with baby powder will have to sand some. and the order page says that it comes with carbon fiber pushrods and ends but all I got was 4-40 ball links and no rod. I tried 2 times to e mail no responce maybe you are busy. other than that the model looks good. Marc Campbell

kurrikan

HI,FROM SPAIN.SOMEBODY CAN TELLS ME SOMETHINGS ABOUT DE CMPRO CORSAIR 120???,? THIS IS MY SECOND 120 WARBIRD(FIBERGLASS FUSE)

THANKS A LOT FOR YOUR HELP,


THIS IS MY E MAIL: [email protected]

AK Models

FYI. CMP does not make elctric spitfire, it must be other manufacturer.
Here is CMP website: http://www.cmpairplane.com/
Take a look.

Loopman

My Feedback: (195)

Alex,
I was advised to ask your opinion on the CMP 1.20 size Corsair. I had one of the early models that suffered from the wing center section becoming so soft in moderate outdoor temperatures that it could not be flown. I asked GSP and was advised that it was not their problem. A consequent e-mail to CMP resulted in no answer either. After many heated discussions with Irwin I decided the best way to get even was to provide as much truthful and honest statements as I could about GSP and the poor quality of the CMP Corsair and their disregard for a poorly designed aircraft.
I now understand that CMP has improved the Corsair design but I am hesitant to drop good money back into this plane unless it trully has been improved and the wing center section strengthened. I would be appreciative if you could give me your honest opinion of the plane as it is produced today. As a final note about Irwin and GSP, he actually told me not to fly the plane in daylight hours! I hope to hear from you soon.

Happy Flying!

Loopman

vollmi

so where do you have set your CG?

André

vollmi

Sorry - again - where is your CG at?

Superchipmunk

Has anyone tried the new 50" sized (143cm wingspan) CMP Extra 330L ?
Any problems to report so far ?

Thanks

[link]http://www.cmpairplane.com/aerobatic/Extra-330L%2050%20size.html[/link]

stevosr

I purchased the CMP Katana 50 from Ebay as my third plane. The instructions were a little to vague for me however I was able to built it OK. I do not like the spring connection of
the wing sections, the wheel spindles will not work but the plane is beautiful. I installed a Saito 82 because my flying buddy told me this plane needed it. All servos are Futaba
digital 3151's. Plane weighs 6.5lbs full of fuel. I have an onboard glow ignitor with a built in battery. The engine is turning a 14/4w APC @ 10200rpm on the ground. I have the cg at the manual recommended location and balanced the plane side to side. My problem is with its flight characteristics. My son has flown this plane two times (he is the better pilot) but
said he will never fly it again. It has TONS of power to pull the plane, rolls are so fast its a blur but when you pull it into a loop it rights itself by that I mean it falls to the right when it is upside down and you just level it out. It will not make a round loop. My son landed it smoothly on our grass field and the landing gear pulled off. I think with the wheel pants on the landing gear snaged and because it is a two piece unit it folded back. Any suggestions on how to make it fly better. I used the hardware included in kit and followed the directions. If I cannot get it to fly any better it will be for sale.

Steve

JL636

My Feedback: (79)

Mosquito bomber. I assembled the wing per instructions. In checking the trailing edge, when the aileron is lined up with the wing tip, it is off on the trailing enge of the engine narcel by a good 5/16th on an inch. If you line it up with the trailing edge of the narcel, then it if off on the wing tip by the same amount. NOTHING LINES UP! I had wanted to get her set up for this spring but now all is on hold trying to decide whether to just junk it or try for a replacement. Joe [:@]

AK Models

Hi Loopman,
My appologies for slow reply, for some reason I stopped getting e-mail about new posts.
My Honest reply would be: non of the Corsair that I have personaly sold had this problem (or at worst nobody wanted to let me know about, wich would really suprise me...)
Thanks.

I also wanted to drop a note to all who wants to post comments on the CMP line of kits to visit:
http://ak-models.com/forum/

This forum has just been lunched so there is not much right now, but it is something we thought would be helpfull for us to have.
We also have forums on other brands we sell so it would be nice to have all the posts in one place. Come check it out.

dgaleana

I bought a GSP P51 60 size (68" span) two Christmas's ago, and I just got around to finishing it. I am using a Saito 120, and I cannot figure out where the CG is located. I would greatly appreciate any help.

Thanks,
Danny

AK Models

Hi Danny ,
CMP does not make 60 size P-51, this would be a wrong place to look for CG.
Sorry could not help.

bvalenty

Hello, Alex...

I recently bought and received the 160-size AT6 Texan ARF and I have to say it appears to be a great value for the money. I haven't begun assembly yet but it doesn't appear to have much glue/epoxy surface for the stab. Any suggestions there? Also, is the thrust built into the firewall or does the builder shim (not clear in the plans)? I ordered the retracts from Eurokit in Italy. Should the retract rails be strenghtened? If so, how? Finally, there is a lot of talk on this thread about CG's. Should I trust the CG on the plan?

Good luck and thanks for the service you're providing....

Ben

kw5368

My Feedback: (2)

When are you going to re-stock sailplanes and gliders on your site?

Thanks

kw5368

My Feedback: (2)

When are you going to re-stock sailplanes and gliders on your site?

Thanks

oddpaint

Well I had a 50" sized CMP Extra 330L until today. Yes I crashed it. The hardware was POS and the instructions are just inadequate. I worked with this model for about a month trying to get the weight and CG right. I could not get any tech support from CMP or the company I got the 330L from. I guess you get what you pay for.

On take off the right wing clipped the runway and at this point the wing tube bent. Then the plane snapped and ripped the left wing off. It did not even hit that hard but the model was trashed.

I can not recommend to any one to buy a CMP model.

Groundhugger

I have been reading through the post about the CG on the CMP planes and I have talked to a few people who have various planes from CMP. I have the Spit and what I have found is if you are going to the larger motors, 1.20 the CG is good according to the instructions. go smaller the CG needs to be adjusted. This is not the rule this works with the Spit. The CG's for the other planes can be way off. There is a mathamatical equation that uses the wing area to calculate the CG of any plane. I just can't find it right now. When I do I'll post it or if someone else knows it could you please post it.

malcolmm

My CMP Katana was the worst plane I have ever owned, I wasn't all that sorry when I crashed the plane trying to pull out of a too low knife edge spin.

Way to heavy with the revised wings - the new wings weighed about 1 pound more than the first version. It was obvious that CMP has no idea how to design planes, they just kept adding wood until it was a flying brick.

Two years ago at my field, which is located near a CMP distributor, there were lots of CMP planes. Now I rarely see one, and those that have them aren't too keen on them. If CMP are your favourite brand of ARF I wonder what other brands you have tried. There is no way that CMP can compare to Great Planes, Horizon and many others. Sure CMP planes cost less, but this is definitely a case of getting what you pay for.

Malcolm

ARMSJSTEV

Johnny Come lately here.I just read the entire post for CMP planes and now I have some input. First off my first exposure to CMP was when i saw the AT-6 160 size.Drool began to flow,but I was doubtful of fiberglass fuselages.Then I saw the P-40some looked kinda cheesy,but the one that interested me was always sold out,so I figured they must be good and very popular. Got it from nitroplanes and it came fairly quickly and with no damage.Instructions typical with the ones i read about in the thread. but I like to think of myself as fairly intelligent so I'll figure it out, since I have build a few ARF's before i have something to work with. the on;y thing on the '40 sized P-40 mentioned was the CG issue and "That they should be done away with". But here's what I got so far.The detail of the plane is somewhat impressive.I don't think the ones that flew in the War had blood splatters flinging from the sharks teethe or had bloodshot eyes,but I'll live with that.the panel lines and rivet decals looked good and there were several other decals such as no step,no push,fuel grades and other convincing markings.fuse is fiberglass and the only wood reinforcing is the formers,no stringers. The retractcs is my beef.Nitro's read up says "retracts will drop right in" 1. The retract mounts seem small and flimsy.they give you blocks to reinforce but they make the retracts stick out to far from the wing which means you can't use the fairing over them. TYhe plates for the bell cranks are real hard to get into the rib (which also seems weak) unless you cut up the wing and then try to glue back together.Now the retract servo has it's own little bay at the wing top,but the wing is not deep enough for the servo to set in far enough to clear the upper rib. I thought i could cut thru the wing and install it deeper thinking the belly pan would cover it.I pushed some t-pins thru the corners of the bay and tested the belly pan and it pushe one of the pins out flush to the bottom of the wing. Cut out the beely pan for the servo to fit??? I'll just go with the fixed gear on this one. The P-40 with retracts I'll get from hangar 9 later. I now have 2 sets of rotating mechanical retracts and no use yet. I haven't even gotten into the fuse yet except to look at it.It calls for a carbon fiber pushrod for the elevator and pull-pull for the rudder.I'd feel more comfortable with 2-56 rods in guide tubes.The throttle servo is in the engine compartment and the motor mount is ply rails built into the nose. I just finished my Hangar 9 Sopwith Camel last week and I'm afraid to fly it because it looks so good.Reckon I'll just sit and stare at it.This P-40, I will try to fly,but not at the flying club.I'll take it out to the old abandoned airfield out here on Ft.Lewis. That way if it crashes it won't be into someone or something I'll have to pay for. If any one else has any experience with the .40 size P-40 I'd like to hear from you before I get too deep into it.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Drop right in retracts --that term does not exist , not even in $500 arfs , they all need some work , even H9 .
The basic steps I follow is 1)glass inner base (inside of top wing sheeting , 2)build from the bottom up a new solid base for the rails , three , test fit your gear , use a dremil in small stages to make them fit , make provisions for rods and or air lines , 5)line wheel well with wood ,
If you build any retract area with anything less just start to realize that you will always be working on them .
Its like this , plant a $25 hole for a $100 tree and your tree will be dead , the retracts are the foundation of the plane , treat them that way .

ARMSJSTEV

THE RETRACT INSTALLATION ISN'T MY BIG PROBLEM. THERE ISN'T ENOUGH WING TO STICK THE SERVO IN WITHOUT CUTTING A HOLE AND HAVE THE SERVO STICKING OUT THE BOTOM EVEN THRU THE BELLY PAN UNLESS THERE'S A RETRACT SERVO I DON'T KNOW ABOUT THAT'S ONLY 1/2 INCH THICK. BUT THANX FOR THE INFO. I WAS LOOKING THRU THE BOOKLET TODAY AT WORK AND I THINK I'LL USE SOLID RODS INSTEAD OF THEIR PUSH ROD AND PULL-PULL SET UP FOR THE TAIL.

cjoker5475

has anyone flown the extra 300s 140 (stars and stripes). ive read alot about the warbirds but not hardly on the red white blue extra 300s 140.