GaGeeBees

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I'm still alive and kicking, Wally. Just haven't been able to do much with the hobby lately. Too much other stuff going on. But health-wise, I think I'm okay... I just ran the Atlanta marathon last Sunday and survived How're you?

Paul Grubich

My Feedback: (1)

Got a used one with some damage and it is all repaired and ready to go except for the spinner. It seems the prop nut assembly is not the correct one for the OS 160 we are using. Is there any around I could purchase or make work with this spinner, or is there any complete spinner assemblies available that work with the OS 160?
Thanks,

sbrackets

Hello Paul

Check out True Turn Spinners They make a spinner for a AT-6 that looks like the spinner for the Staggerwing. True Ture will also have the OS 1.60 adapter that your looking for if thats all you need.

Here is a link for the 2-3/4" adapter.

After looking closer at the web page that spinner may be too small from your prop. You may have to go bigger in Dia. to fit your prop

http://tinyurl.com/ce86bln

Here is the replacement prop adapter that your looking for. only $8.95 for the O.S 1.60 engine.
http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store...8a&ppinc=adapt

Regards, Jim

badazzgti03

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Finally starting to work on mine...will post build progress pics

sbrackets

Hey Guys
I have my Staggerwing up for sale on RCU if anyone is interested in getting one. I am willing to dicker on the price that i'm asking.

It's a great airplane, just wanting another warbird.

However It's local pickup only, no shipping. But will to drive some distance to met you halfway. I'm in South Carolina.

Regards, Jim
864-477-8208

rslstft

My Feedback: (10)

Paul,
The 2 3/4" Tru-Turn AT-6 spinner that Jim mentioned is the one I use on my Stagg. They slotted it for my Xoar 20x8 prop. Fits fine and looks good too. I've been flying mine with it since TopFlite released the plane however long ago! Have no idea how many flights I have on that plane, well in excess of 200! Wore out a set of tires already.

sbrackets

Ah!
I guess I'll just keep her for now. I didn't get much interest on RCU Classifieds. That's fine, she's a good ship. I was just looking for another Warbird to ad to my collection. I was wanting a ESM JU84 Stuka. Maybe later.

Jim

WhoDaMan

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I think folks need stuff shipped and a lot of folks just will not take the time

badazzgti03

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Hey everyone!!!
Been building the staggerwing, I originally purchased this un-built ARF from a member on these forms. The guy started to build it like do the hinges and stuff like that. but on the top wing he glued the aluminum bar on the wrong side of the wing. So I need to be able to separate the top wing for storage. I installed the top wing to the fuse with out gluing the wings together and it seems like it holds very will with just the nylon bolts. What do you all think will I be safe? besides that..the kit was shorted some parts but lucky I had some extras laying around from other kits. But unfortunately there were a couple that were not included The nylon collars for the rear main struts on the landing gear to hold the gear door to it. Do anyone have any spares or an alternative for this? As well as that, the pre-bent wire/rod for the main gear door flaps is missing as well. Anyone have extras of those or an instruction or plans on how to bend them and what gauge rod I would need to make them if anyone don't have any. Let me know I'm currently at a stand still with this plane.

njmheli

Hi.

Sorry to hear about your problems with your second hand purchase :

I would try and work out a way to just put a bolt on to lock the wing spar in place....just in case : my thoughts would be to try and duplicate what T/F have done in the other wing half ie: drill a hole in the other wing,exactly over where the spare slides in ( so that a bolt will push down onto the top of the spare to lock it in ). This bolt can be held in the wing using a "blind-nut" / "captive-nut" in reverse from the surface of the wing,so that the spikes will be sticking into the wing surface,you could use a thin bit of ply to ensure good strength and epoxy the "nut" to the ply,then the ply to the wing surface after removing some covering material.
The bolt then threads throught the captive nut and onto the top of the spar to lock it in.

Hope that the above makes sense.

For the U/C.........just use some metal wheel collets ( with the correct threaded bolts) of the correct dia of the U/C wire..........just the same job.

These are what you need for the door "flaps" on the U/C,see pic: Material is a "piano-wire" approx dia 1.01mm / 0.040"...have you got the plastic plates as in the photo..?

Kind regards..............Nick (UK).

badazzgti03

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njmheli,
I understand what you mean about the wing spare. Ill most likely end up doing that. As for the u/c I do have metal collars with the screw fitting that fits but the problem i have is getting the collar over the bend in the strut. The plastic plates i believe i do have I remember seeing one i just hope I have the other. The piano wire is what i need..I can make it myself but would need a good visual of how it is bent/formed.

Thanks

njmheli

Hi.

OK..........have a look at these,let me know what else you need from the bits..... you may be able to enlage the photo's to size as shown..?

Kind regards...........Nick (UK).

njmheli

Hi.

Some "angles" for you,hope this helps............

Thought of making your own plastic collets out of a piece of plastic rod..?

Kind regards.............Nick (UK)

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

njmheli,
Dude you are the man!!!!! this will help tons!!!
thank you so much

badazzgti03

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I was thinking about the plastic collars too for a plastic rod...ill more then likely be heading to the hobby shop on Friday to check things out there

badazzgti03

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Got those wires bent up like they should and installed...I don't know if I have them installed right or what? when the gear goes up the wire binds with a part of the gear causing the back part of the flap on the door to bend up. Is this normal? Anyone have any pics or video of the gear in action? would be much appreciated.

njmheli

HI.

Have a look at this,it is a short video of my U/C ( using an early version of D & L electric retracts )...........hope this helps you...........It may just be a question of getting the linkage adjusted correctly..?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVm7P98gLqE


Kind regards.............Nick (UK).

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

I saw that video...not really clear on seeing how it was installed...I guess I just got bend it and adjust it so that it is not sloppy when the gear is up

njmheli

Hi.

If you still having problems,I will get the S/W out and take some photo's for you...?

Let me know...

Kind regards Nick(UK).

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

thanks man. Ill let you know

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

This is getting to be a frustrating build...just about almost every time i look for a part in the parts bag it is missing. I don't have all the mounting plywood for the air tank, gear servo, air valve and screws and bolts....luck I got extra screws and bolts left over from other builds. I'm just going to have to make my own ply mounts for the air system....Kinds sucks that I have a deadline for this project....3 more weeks left to build for a local show.

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

Here are some pics.....Having an issue with the gear door flap popping up at the rear once retracted. any ideas? posted a pic of it.

knucklebutt

I have exactly the same issue: Its a warp: I have just made my peace with it



Denis

njmheli

Hi.

Very nice looking S/W,looks great with the 200 sitting up front !!!

I too had the same problem,but you may be able to "dial" a little bit of that out.........as it is just in the geometry setting,I kow that you bent up the "rod" from the details that I posted,so if the door is working,you cannot be too far of the correct setting.

My fix to get the door flush was :

1/......try to shorten the length of the rod where it is clamped to the "half-door".......takes a little bit of time,but you may get it a bit better.

2/.....I was lucky enough to purchase another set of gear doors and fittings from "Omnimodels in the US " ( hence a spare set of rods that I gave you the dimensions for )...I then took two of the hinges off of the spare set and bolted exactly where the door appears to "bend up" when retracted on each door. ( the rod then takes up the retract compression for the door being held flush by the hinge )..........PROBLEM ALL SOLVED and nice flush doors !!!

It's not too much work and I'm sure you can get another hinge..............a piano type small hinge..? ( as used in what we call here in the UK "Doll's House" that children play with,from a craft store maybe ).I think that you will find that T/F have used metal hinges on the doors..

If you look at mt U/C video again,you should see the extra hinge that I fitted....

Hope this helps.........But I know you are on a very tight schedule for your Model Show.....hope it all goes well !!!

Kind regards..............Nick (UK).

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

Nick,
I followed your instructions. I don't know if that gauge of wire has something to do with it I used .47 i could not fine .40 gauge.
I also followed the first 2 posts on PG. 44. But it seems to be an issue for some. The wire bines on the fork of the strut when the flap of the gear door closes causing the back of the gear door flap to pop up like in my pic. Are you suppose to run the rod over or under the fork of the strut?


Jon