New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
#2676
That's curious. Have to ask. Did you bench run the engine? I know DLE recommends against it, but I think I'm going to run mine on the bench first. I've just never used an engine without running it on the bench. Next project for me.
Last edited by Tom Nied; 06-12-2014 at 06:47 PM.
#2679
My Feedback: (2)
Not to worry Tom I never took it that way. I just didn't as this was a winter build so it never went onto my stand. I just did a run up and checked the mix before flying and all was good. At this point I suspect the ignition but like I was saying I will look into it when I have a chance. No biggie.
Last edited by Super08; 06-12-2014 at 06:55 PM.
#2682
My Feedback: (2)
As for my DLE35 I found the problem and it wasn't the ignition or the IBEC. It was the carb after all. It ceases to amaze me that no matter how long you have worked on these motors there is always something to throw you a curve. I ran it up first to confirm the problem was in fact active in case it was a heat related issue. As soon as I started it the problem was active. It would start to take some throttle but wouldn't. The throttle linkage was moving as it should as was the arm on the carb. The high mixture had zero effect and the low had little effect and if taken to extremes would eventually kill the engine.
So the first thing I did was bypass the IBEC and that did not fix the problem. Next up I hooked up an ignition I had from a DLE30 that I knew was good. Still the same problem. OK great I know the carb is the problem. I had already blown out the jets with fuel and knew they were clear. Hmmm, could it be on the pump side where I have a blockage? I decided to pull the carb. Before I can do that I need to remove the linkage and fuel line. First up was the linkage. Started to remove the bolt that holds the ball link to the arm on the carb and suddenly the arm moves sideways when I push on it. What the heck? I look and the factory screw that holds on the factory arm is loose. It had backed off just enough to allow the arm to slip off the flat spot that allows it to rotate the butterfly. Wicked, sometimes the simplest things can be the hardest to spot.
I got some red loctite to put on it, hooked the IBEC and ignition back up and it runs perfect again.
I am still shaking my head and chuckling about this one. Any time I remove a carb arm screw off of a carb I always loctite them. The factory ones I have never had problems with in the past. Those were always Walbro carbs however and DLE now makes their own carbs. This is the only Chinese made engine I have left. All of my other engines are either 3W or DA for a reason.....
So the first thing I did was bypass the IBEC and that did not fix the problem. Next up I hooked up an ignition I had from a DLE30 that I knew was good. Still the same problem. OK great I know the carb is the problem. I had already blown out the jets with fuel and knew they were clear. Hmmm, could it be on the pump side where I have a blockage? I decided to pull the carb. Before I can do that I need to remove the linkage and fuel line. First up was the linkage. Started to remove the bolt that holds the ball link to the arm on the carb and suddenly the arm moves sideways when I push on it. What the heck? I look and the factory screw that holds on the factory arm is loose. It had backed off just enough to allow the arm to slip off the flat spot that allows it to rotate the butterfly. Wicked, sometimes the simplest things can be the hardest to spot.
I got some red loctite to put on it, hooked the IBEC and ignition back up and it runs perfect again.
I am still shaking my head and chuckling about this one. Any time I remove a carb arm screw off of a carb I always loctite them. The factory ones I have never had problems with in the past. Those were always Walbro carbs however and DLE now makes their own carbs. This is the only Chinese made engine I have left. All of my other engines are either 3W or DA for a reason.....
#2683
Well that's good you figured it out. And sharing with us lets us (me) know what to look out for. So thank you for that. Got a question for you though. Did you remove the spring on the carburetor lever?
Last edited by Tom Nied; 06-13-2014 at 03:26 PM. Reason: left out a word
#2684
My Feedback: (2)
I never remove it as it holds side tension on the shaft to stop it from vibrating. If completely removed the shaft will vibrate and quickly wear. Once it does it will leak air and the carb will be toast. What I do is just unhook the spring and let it rotate around a bit so the tension is there but weak.
#2686
My Feedback: (2)
If you're up for suggestions regarding props, I would offer that 10" of pitch on a plane like this one may not be a good plan? They work fine on warbirds whose smaller control surfaces and slippery airfoils allow them the ability to run at higher speeds. This plane, with it's fat airfoil and relatively large control surfaces, has more of a "sport" type performance profile - that might work better with 6" or maybe 8" of pitch max. If the 19x8 isn't loading the engine enough, I'd be tempted to go with a 20x8 vs. the 19x10. More load with better performance in the speed range the plane is intended to run in. Plus, less pitch will let it slow down quicker/easier on those days with no wind coming down the runway to help you do that. That's my opinion though, FWIW. -Al
Last edited by ahicks; 07-03-2014 at 03:40 AM.
#2693
#2694
#2695
A Kickstarter campaign is not begging for money, it is giving people a good deal on a product or service, much lower than they would pay later, if they help get things going. So, it's beneficial for the pledgers and the originator.
#2696
campaign then it is worth their while to get the messages. Just a thought.
#2700
My Feedback: (20)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Marion,
NC
Posts: 71
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Those with the DLE motors installed, how did you setup your throttle and choke linkages. From looking at the manual it seems like the fuel tank is in the way for the throttle. Setups and pics would be great thanks!!!