jasona

It's the weekend at last so I can finally get on with the Camel!

I thought there was a lead weight supplied to go in the weight box, but I can't find it anywhere. What did you guys have?

Also, the weight box itself is glued shut! I'm going to have to prise it open! Was anyone else's like that? (No the lead weight isn't already inside the box, it's too light for that!)

Also, I'm planning to put both the RX battery and the battery for my on-board glow in front of the firewall. Do you think that, plus a full weight box, plus an os91 engine will be TOO nose-heavy, or about right?

CloudSkipper

I read somewhere that Camels shipped to retailers outside the U.S. don't include the lead weight. I ordered from the U.S. so I got the weight. Quite the hunk of lead.

You'll get replies about this one, ha ha. You're probably not close to being nose heavy much less too nose heavy. I'll be installing a 61FX and plan to use a Higley "ultra heavy" brass prop nut (over 4 oz). Just in case that's too much I also got a smaller Great Planes brass prop nut (just over 2 oz). Depends on how nose heavy or tail heavy you want (as little as 3.4" CG or as much as 4" CG), but from what I've read, you're probably not there yet.

crashgoodly

mine came with the lead weight. i'm in canada so they do ship them out of the states with the lead. i've got the weight my battery strapped at the front right side just behind the fire wall and the RX forward, an OS 75 motor and she balances just a little nose down maybe 2-3 degrees. i'd like to see 5-7 degrees so when she's fueled she won't tail heavy from the fuel as part of the tank is aft of the balance point. i'll fly it and see. if the weather clears she's good to go. i left out the pilot he realy sucks.

CloudSkipper

I should have said outside north america. I would guess that they add the weight in the U.S. before shipping to retailers. It's a relatively short hop from Illinois to Ontario. But for shipping elsewhere internationally I could see them seeing an increased risk of the lead weight possibly shaking loose inside the package during a circuitous long haul. Only takes a little knock from a big lead weight to crack balsa.

Come to think of it, that makes me want to carefully check my wing panels even though mine shipped direct very quickly.

crashgoodly

it is an awful big chunk of lead. it isn't taped bown in the box and your quite right that it could smash the hell out of the model if it got loose. i still can't get over the need for that much nose weight but she may need some more i even put the motor a little forward to help with balance, as i am not using the dummy radial. if it flies like it looks i'm going to be very pleased.

kerwin50

I never had to add weight to the nose, I put an onboard glow with batt on the motor box an a choke servo for an old 91 surpass
I think I balanced her a 4 or 4 an 1/2 but I've kept my prop small for less p-factor an gryoscopic procession 13 6 prop works the best
but I sold her to a flying buddy an he's running a 14 8. An I've seen a little more left dart when the tail comes up.

crashgoodly

 i'm getting alot more down aileron then up with this wing setup. has anyone else got this with their models? please and thanks. i've Y connected  the ailerons they won't move up even by hand more then about an inch due to the way they are attached to the wing but down gets almost two inches of movement.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

crash:

I think everyone had to use a heat gun to heat up the (covering) hinges and stretch them a little. Being hinged at the top, it's hard to get much down travel.

crashgoodly

thanks.. heat gun i didn't even think of. the down travel is fine the up is tight. the way they hinged it at the bottoms of the trailing edges gives lots of down but realy limits the upward travel of the hinge. i add another six ounces of weight to the nose as the full fuel tank may shift the cg back, and the supplied weight just put it at level for the recomended balance point, which i don't care for. i like all my models to tilt towards the nose a little bit. except 3d models.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Yeah, I had it backwards. And you're right about being a bit forward of the recommended CG- whenever I get mine at 4", it gets goofy, so I always end up moving it up a little.

crashgoodly

i'm getting the inch up but alot more down because of the way it's hinged at the bottom. the servo travel is the same in each direction i just get more on the down aileron then the up.the up aileron will move as far as i can move it by hand which is about the recomended travel. down because of the hinge angle is greatly increased by compare. full right aileron giving about an inch of up on the right wing gives me almost two inches down aileron on the left wing and visa versa. sorry to be rambling but do you have this on yours.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Yeah, mine's all stupid, too. I need to get in there and split the aileron servos over two channels, so I can dial in some differential, ie, more up than down. Just never got around to it. I'm sure it would make the handling a lot better.

crashgoodly

thanks. i'm going to fly it as is and see how it handles. said and done though it's one hell of a nice looking model. just waiting for the rain to stop and up it goes.

i ran the motor and the prop wash shook the rigging loose so off it went. i'll like others make my own rigging for it.

crashgoodly

i used my heat gun as suggested and it worked great perfect movement and throw. thanks for the kick in the brain.,

SimonCraig1

You can prevent this by tying the turnbuckle to prevent it rotating. I used an 'S' shaped length of very fine gauge (fuse wire) wire passed though the small hole in the female part tied back to each end of the male threads and wrapped around a few times. Other have used locktite blue thread locker.

crashgoodly

thanks... i spit one of the buckles on the lawn and can't find it. i'm going to use elastic thread. i found some good enough for the job and dyed it silver gray so it looks like metal cable. it is also lighter then the stock rigging.

pope61

What I did for the brass turn buckles was put
blue lock tite on the thread ends, screw them together
and let sit for 3-4 mins then undo them and let them dry.
The loctite seems to set up on the threads and causes
enough friction that they dont back off.
But Be CAREFULL when doing this,,,,,,,,,, or.........

Wes

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

What I did that worked really well:

1. Laid them all the wire assemblies carefully into my right palm, with the upper ends closest to me.

2. Walked out the back door and down the steps on the deck.

3. Faced directly west.

4. Threw the whole mess into the woods.

I haven't had a bit of trouble with the flying wires since then.

crashgoodly

LOL. left or right handed throw? has anyone tried an gyro in the tail on one of these? i had mine out today. it was to windy to fly but i was just testing her ground handling. she's like all my other ww1 models "fun on the ground." i've got a few gyroslaying around and was wondering has it been tested or is this taboo? please and thanks.

Mark..

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Mark:

Try putting in all the rudder travel you can possibly get, then dial in about 25% expo.

crashgoodly

i just got back from maidening the camel. what a fantastic flying model. the os 75 got her up in less then thirty feet and she flew hands off without any trim. lands great as well. i didn't use a gyro in the rudder and she realy doesn't need one anyway. thanks for all the input guys. i'm loving this model. though i'm going to try to adjust the rubber shocks a bit. i have two o rings and an #64 elastic on each side, i'm thinking two #64 elastics perside should be fine. i find the other way a little to stiff for my liking.

jasona

Congratulations! An auspicious and historic occasion, without doubt!

I reckon one more weekend of work and mine will be finished too.

crashgoodly

thanks.. she's a real winner. i used an 2700 sub c nimh mounted to a plate i attached the the weight box, the whole lead brick and three ounces more of lead and got perfect balance on it. i was worried she maybe a bit nose heavy but no, i still can't stop smiling at how well she performed. it took me four years to finally decided to buy this model. i only wish i bought it sooner. good luck with yours.

jasona

What a charming response, thank you! Mine's quite chunky rx battery too. I'm planning to mount that and the battery from the onboard glow to the weight box, fill the weight box with lead (the lead weight wasn't supplied in mine, but I have plenty) and see how that balances up compared to what the instructions recommend. A little nose-heavy isn't a bad thing.

crashgoodly

mine is at about 4 degrees nose down at the 4 inch recommended balance point. i also used the electric tape trick on the wheels, i gave them five wraps each, and it realy helps ground tracking. i was born in rochdale lancashire and realy envy the fact that you get to maiden yours on home turf.


BTW.. i put the short struts to the leading edge on my model and the long to the trailing edge for the outer struts. she climbed perfect under power this way, with no sign of ballooning. the stall was also level and gentle. landing was also an none event. just lined her up and drop in over the strip and it settled gentle as can be. i gotta go buy a case of guiness and lift a glass to H9 for this one.