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Seagull Yak?

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Old 12-10-2011, 03:59 PM
  #1351
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Slow and Steady

If you go with a Life "receiver" pack, it is only supplied with a Futaba type lead, which may not be sufficient if it is powering both the Receiver with digital servos and the ignition. They also cary packs that have a Deans connector, which is rated at 10 C or 10 Amps; more than enough for any load spikes.

Rowdie, As noted, I have the same SmartFly set up on my 50cc and have found its redundancy to be bullet proof.

I agree. That's why Irun 2 battery systems in my most of my gas planes.

The power lead for my ignitions have all come with a Futaba style female connector so, it will fit all common servo connectors. The receiver pack I have came wired with a servo style connector with just the power leads connected. Works great for either receiver or ignition. I think it's an 1800mah LIFE and the brand is Zippy. I found it new on Ebay for an excellent price. Unfortunately, there was only one available.
I'm currently using the LIFEreceiver pack to power the receiver in my glow engined Escapade .61 so, only one battery is needed.
The LIPO receiver packs I'm using also come with servo style connectors and are 6C to 10C ...plenty of juice for either ignition or receiver. Of course, the voltage regulator goes in-line with the battery.

Yep, the Smart Fly stuff is good but, a bit on the pricey side. I'm experiencing some interference with the right aileron servo on my 50cc bird. It twitches when Ichange throttle settings. This a new problem and I haven't found the cause yet. I've added a toroid to the aileron lead but, haven't had a chance to fire it up to see if it has helped the problem. I must have a "leak" somewhere in the ignition system but, it's not obvious. Looks like I'll have to get the old magnifying glass out and inspect all of the leads.
I could probably eliminate the problem by bypassing the Smart fly and going straight to either the receiver or ignition but, I'd rather use it as configured. Besides, if the ignition is shorting somewhere I'd like to find it and fix it before it damages something.

Merry Christmas,
RJ

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Old 12-10-2011, 04:17 PM
  #1352
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Default RE: Seagull Yak?

Good call Clay. That's the way Ipower all of my gas birds but, I use two separate systems like that. One for the receiver and one for the ignition.
I know some guys who run 4 batterys ...two on each piece of equipment. They use a "Y" harness to connect them in parallel. If one battery goes, the other picks up the load and will get the plane down safely. It's not as expensive as it sounds because they use 2 smallish batteries. e.g. two 1100mah 2 cell LIPOs to make a total of 2200mah on each circuit but, still get 7.4 volts into the regulator/UBEC. Not a bad idea and it doesn't add weight because the two smaller batteries will be equal to (or less) than one 2200mah 2 cell.

RJ

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Old 12-12-2011, 05:59 PM
  #1353
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Smart Fly makes a thing called a Batt Share (it is not a regulator), which allows for two batteries and will isolate the bad battery from the good. A Y harness doesn't provide the isolation. Don't know how important this is, but it seams as though it should be of some concern. Also, using two small Mah batteries can be a problem if one of them goes bad on the first flight and is not detected. This may result in the other battery being overextended and unexpectidly going dead during a later flight. Just something to think about.
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:13 PM
  #1354
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Slow and Steady

Smart Fly makes a thing called a Batt Share (it is not a regulator), which allows for two batteries and will isolate the bad battery from the good. A Y harness doesn't provide the isolation. Don't know how important this is, but it seams as though it should be of some concern. Also, using two small Mah batteries can be a problem if one of them goes bad on the first flight and is not detected. This may result in the other battery being overextended and unexpectidly going dead during a later flight. Just something to think about.
You're right but, Ihaven't found anything on the Smart Fly equip. I'm running that will indicate one of my batteries is dead either. Seems there should be some sort of indicator. It wouldn't be difficult to make an LEDcircuit that would light up when/if voltage drops below the minimum but, you'd think someone would have done it already and included it in that sort of equipment.
Unless Icheck my batteries at the field after each flight, Ihave no way of knowing the condition of either battery.

RJ

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Old 12-12-2011, 06:20 PM
  #1355
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I thought about using two low Mah batteries to save weight and the scenario I mentioned was my main concern. That being said, after over 300 flights with the Life battery set up, I have had no failures and the amps used seams to remain consistant. Which is why I was tempted to go to a single battery. They are supposed to be good for 1000 cycles without a loss of capacity. Still not ready to make that leap. Love my 50cc EF Yak to much and would hate to see it ditched prematurely.

Incidentally, I haven't had this Seagull Yak in at least 3 years, but loved the way it flew. Alot like my EF, in sport mode; only smaller. And I enjoy staying in the loop with other Seagull Yak fliers.
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:26 PM
  #1356
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Default RE: Seagull Yak?

UBEC stands for Universal Battery Elimination Circuit
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:44 AM
  #1357
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One of our club members has this Yak with a 20cc DLE mounted on it. If flies great ! His prop is too small but, he plans to correct that soon. It can be graceful or wild ...just a great flying plane. It has given me the inspiration to get back to work on mine and get it in the air. If my RCGF 20cc performs close to his DLE I'll be a very happy camper.

RJ
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Old 01-13-2012, 12:28 AM
  #1358
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I was at the club field a couple of days ago and the guy with the 20cc DLE flew his Yak using a 17"X4" Xoar beechwood prop. It flew much better but, Ithink he's a bit oversized on the prop. I think a 16"X6" would work better IMO. Landing speed appears to be a bit hot but, nothing exceptionally difficult. However, this is not an airplane for the beginner.

My Yak is about 60% complete. The airframe is complete so, now I need to mount the fuel tank, ignition, receiver, batteries, throttle servo, choke servo, and cut the cowl openings. They way I've been dragging my feet it will probably take another week or so to get it done.

RJ
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Old 01-13-2012, 01:40 AM
  #1359
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A buddy of mine has a DLE 30 hung on the nose of his Seagull Yak. Tons of fun!
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Old 01-13-2012, 05:55 AM
  #1360
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: rowdyjoe

I was at the club field a couple of days ago and the guy with the 20cc DLE flew his Yak using a 17"X4" Xoar beechwood prop. It flew much better but, Ithink he's a bit oversized on the prop. I think a 16"X6" would work better IMO. Landing speed appears to be a bit hot but, nothing exceptionally difficult. However, this is not an airplane for the beginner.

My Yak is about 60% complete. The airframe is complete so, now I need to mount the fuel tank, ignition, receiver, batteries, throttle servo, choke servo, and cut the cowl openings. They way I've been dragging my feet it will probably take another week or so to get it done.

RJ
I have one with a G20 on it. I tried several props from 16X6 to 17X8 and settled on 17X6 as the one I like best. 17X8 flies a bit faster, but the 6" pitch allows for better slow down for landing, it can get too slow if I am not paying attention. If the other plane lands fast with a 17X4, don't attribute that to the prop.

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Old 01-13-2012, 07:17 AM
  #1361
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Default RE: Seagull Yak?

RCVER, How do you like your G-20 ?
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Old 01-13-2012, 12:23 PM
  #1362
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: RCVFR
I have one with a G20 on it. I tried several props from 16X6 to 17X8 and settled on 17X6 as the one I like best. 17X8 flies a bit faster, but the 6" pitch allows for better slow down for landing, it can get too slow if I am not paying attention. If the other plane lands fast with a 17X4, don't attribute that to the prop.
Oooops, didn't mean to blame it on the prop. Iwas trying to pass on my observations of the overall performance of the plane. Ithink he said the engine was turning about 7800rpm with the new wood prop.
Thanks for the tip on the props. I'm new to fuel engines and have learned recently that the prop needs to be matched to the airframe as well as the engine (all up weight I guess).
I hit the jackpot recently with the choice of prop for my DLE 55 and MX2. I had been using a 22X10 Zinger Pro and it was working well but, always wanted to try a 23X10. So, I bought a Xoar in that size and hit the sweet spot. It makes a BIGdifference. It did not want to stop going vertical so Ipullled the power back just before Ilost orientation. I've also noticed that my bird slows down faster with the larger prop.

RJ

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Old 01-14-2012, 06:44 AM
  #1363
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: RCplanman

RCVER, How do you like your G-20 ?
It's an excellent engine in all respects. It is heavier than the newer 20cc engines, however, I have not found that to be a problem. I am currently running it in the Seagull YAK 54 60-90 and the weight is just right for that airframe.

User friendly, strong (I can't fanthom why the instruction manual proposes 14" and 15" props when the engine is capable of so much more), smooth running and well made. I recommend it.

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Old 01-15-2012, 07:17 PM
  #1364
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I'm making good progress on my Yak. All electrics are installed, tested and working well. I need one more short extension and that system will be complete.
Ineed a bit more fuel tubing and a "T" fitting to complete the fuel system installation. Also need to figure out how to rig the choke. I'm trying to decide whether it's better to go with a servo or do mechanical linkage. That will depend on ease of installation and operation.
Also need to cut the cowl openings. That's the part that always scares me.

I'm getting excited about finishing this one.

RJ
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:11 AM
  #1365
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RJ

Do you know how to cut the cowl opening?
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:30 AM
  #1366
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ORIGINAL: WRM

RJ

Do you know how to cut the cowl opening?

Well, I've cut a couple of them before and they turned out OK but, I'm certainly not an expert. I used my dremmel with a cut-off wheel and made mostly square cuts or large arcs. I'm leary of trying smaller arcs such as needed for the velocity stack.
It's all been freehand after measuring and marking.

RJ

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Old 01-16-2012, 12:26 PM
  #1367
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You might try the little sanding barrels for smaller radiuses and smoothing edges. (They come in two sizes). I've only got 4 flights on my Yak, but so far I like it.


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Old 01-16-2012, 12:32 PM
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jknox,
Thanks for that tip. That's a forehead slapper for me (duh). I've got a couple of dozen of those and never thought about using them. That should do the job nicely.

RJ
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:13 PM
  #1369
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Just completed the fuel system installation and mounted the wings for the first time. Found I put the fuel DOT too low on the fuselage and it interfered a tad with the right wing. So, redrilled and covered the first hole.
Turned on the electrics with all servos connected and checked and adjusted control surface alignmnet.
All Ineed to do now is fill the tank and fire here up. I've run this engine extensively on the bench so there should be no issues with it.
Also need to cut the cowl holes and will do that tomorrow.
I'm undecided whether to do the first flight with or without the cowl. I'll probably do it without.

She looks great but, I'm going to add some black stripes on the bottom side of the wings to help me with orientation.
First flight should be Wed. this week if the WX forecast holds true.

RJ
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Old 01-17-2012, 03:22 AM
  #1370
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Yea, I'm suprised that Seagulldidn't addstripes oranything to differentiate the bottom of the wing from the top. I got a little carried away striping mine. Just curious where you set your CG and if you were able to balance without additional weight. I had to ejectmy pilot to avoid nose weight. And good luck on your maiden flight.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:02 AM
  #1371
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I'de recommend flying with the cowl. Without it, the pitch trim will be different.
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Old 01-17-2012, 07:31 AM
  #1372
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Mine is sold now, had about 70 flights on her and she will be missed. Got a chance to pick up a pilot yak 26% with dle 30 with 6 flights on it for a bargin, wanted to keep the seagull and especially the engine but simply got to many planes and had to generate cash so im not stealing frm the marrage fund.

On the cowl my first fifty flights was without cowl, and then the rest with cowl. I did need to retrim after the cowl fitment but it was not a drastic change in pitch, so she will fly fine without cowl.

I also picked up a crrc 26 pro v1 side induction engine and have it fitted to a pitts 1/4 scale that I have yet to fly. I have rebuilt this engine and she is timed and tuned for max performance and running great. But although heavier and a bigger displacement she is 800 rpm down on the same prop that the rcg 20 rear induction reed valve motor!

This was very suprising for me, so be warned those who are fitting 26 cc side induction motors, you may not get the same performance as a 20 cc rear induction reed valve like a dle or rcg. Having said that the 26 was spinning a 17 7 at 7400 rpm so still had about 12 pound thrust by the feel of things sowould still fly the 10 1/2 lb yak straight up.

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Old 01-17-2012, 09:37 AM
  #1373
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CG? Ihave to set the CG?

Forgot to mention that it's one more thing Ihave to do before flight. I have my fingers crossed that it won't require much, if any, weight.

RJ
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Old 01-17-2012, 10:01 AM
  #1374
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COG is rear of wing tube, factory spec COG is a bit suspect.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:36 PM
  #1375
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Well, she's all in one piece. Imounted the cowl about an hour ago after a bit of trial and error. It fits fine and looks good and all the stuff that heats up should get plenty of cooling.

Assembled everything and attempted to balance her at the factory CG ....7 to 8 CM back from the leading edge at the wing tip. OOOPS ! Waaaaaay nose heavy. Guess that little 20cc gasser is heavier than it looks. Haven't weighed it yet but, that's next.

I've searched this thread for CG advice and find that most folks are recommending 5.5 inches back from the leading edge at the root. I'll try that next but, wanted to look around a bit first to see if there is a consensus about the CG location.

I'm still hoping for first flight tomorrow but, I'm getting pretty tired. I've been working on this bird since about 11AM. Ran the engine for a while and found that I'm getting 7700 RPMwith a 16x8 Xoar prop and velocity stack installed. I removed the stack to make the cowl fit better and I discovered that it cost me 500 RPM. Lesson learned ....velocity stacks work well.

More later.

RJ
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