TooLow

My Feedback: (5)

Im running a G26 thats been "blue printed" and "cleaned up--ports and passages polished stock muffler swinging a MA 18x6 prop Flies like a clipped wing Cub Needs rudder on turns but easy to mix with Spektrum radio. Tried Flaperons but went back to reg ailerons without flaps. As large as the plane is it settles into final real easy with 30-40 ft of rollout. If you are interested i the GB-Y I'd go for it too! Pacific Aeromodels ARF's are some of the easiest to assemble without changing out a ton of hardware. Nice thing about the gas is that cleanup is minimal==1 kleenex and you get over 20 min on the stock fuel tank

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

I used servo screws and rubber grommets. No stress cracks and the screws stay put. Works very well. It does help that I'm running a Saito 1.70 radial as vibration is nearly zero.

dgliderguy

What adhesive are you guys using for mounting the side window transparencies? I was thinking of using Household Goop, or RC56, but does regular CA with a spritz of accelerator work, too?

Also, has anyone permanently mounted the windshield? I'd like to cover the edges with matching Ultracote Cub Yellow trim strips, for a more finished look.

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

I used just a few drops of thick CA and kicker.

Tisoy909

My Feedback: (21)

Just wantd to ask anyone here, I see that Pacific aero has a Gee Bee Y which has an 82" span but theres also one by Hobby-Lobby at 84" inch span aside from that comparing the two shows little or no difference except that the Hobby Lobby one has a sprung or strut type gear to maybe help with landing aside from that they seem just about identical, does anyone here have a little more info of comparing the two, i just wanted to choose which Gee Bee Y would be a better buy as although the Hobby Lobby one has that gear feature theres also a slightly higher price tag, just wonder what are peoples opinion here on that?
Thanks
Louie

Jim T

My Feedback: (1)

I used RC56 to glue the windows in my Bruce Tharpe Flyin King and a couple of them fell out during flight. I've used it for canopies before with good luck. Not sure what went wrong. They'll be glued back in with thick CA.

Jim

mobyal

I used silicon -- the clear bathtub caulk -- on the side windows and kept the screws for the windshield as designed, though I changed the kit-supplied screws for 1/2" hexhead servo screws w/ 1/16 ply reinforcement. The reason I did this is so that if I need to get back in there for anyhting major I can get the windows and windshield out to give me another way to stick my hands in there!

dgliderguy

Yeah, I thought of this. It sure is nice to be able to get in there with the windshield and instrument panel out. This is the first plane in a long time that allows me to work both sides of the firewall at the same time!

mobyal

Agreed. I also used the panel -- made one up out of 1/16 ply -- to mount the switch/charger and the Sullivan glo driver swtich and used screws to mount that too. You can see that in photos above. So I can get everything out of there if I have to.
I really did like putting this one together....
Al

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

Mounted my panel with screws too and installed my onboard glow charge jack and LED display on it.

GBR2

My Feedback: (1)

Just got my kit today. Is it necessary to seal the aileron gap? Instructions don't mention anything about it being necessary. Opinions?

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

Sealing the gap isn't necessary in my opinion.

jrf

My Feedback: (551)

It really depends on how small you get the hinge gap. If it is less than 1/8" at it's widest point, you should not need to seal the gaps on the Pacific Clipwing. Other airplanes may vary.

Jim

GBR2

My Feedback: (1)

Started in building and have a question regarding the Strut mounting location in the wing. It appears that where the screw holes are that the wood surface is just balsa without a ply insert. Granted that the strut ends have a large flat area but still if you torque down on the screw to lock the lock washer it seems to me that the wood is going to get compressed in that location also leading to possible loosening of the screw as a result. Has any one reinforced the area around the screw holes by cutting away the wood and installing a ply plate? I would have thought this an obvious thing for the manufacturer to do as it is a hard point on the aircraft. Quality of the kit is nice but I wonder what other small details they overlooked.

Jim T

My Feedback: (1)

I wonder if soaking the area with thin CA would suffice?
I'm curious what your going to use for power?

Jim

jrf

My Feedback: (551)

The wing skin is approximately 3/32 balsa and given how tight the struts fit, you could assume that that little bit of extra room was engineered in. I have not heard of anyone having problems with the struts coming loose, but if you think it might be a problem, you could always use locktite. Locktiting canopy/hatch screws is common practice amoung big bird flyers.

Jim

The more I think about it, the more I like it. Given the impossibility of getting the angle of the strut ends to exactly match the surface of the wing, that thin balsa skin allows the wing surface to mold itself to the actual shape of the strut end as it is tightened down. That will give a much better joint and be less likely to loosen than a mismatched hardwood surface would be.

J

GBR2

My Feedback: (1)

Going to be using a BCMA 26 for power. I'm not really concerned about the struts coming lose but anytime I've built something where a metal surface is going to be tightened to a wood surface, compressing the wood is a concern, so I was just surprised that there was no ply at this hard point especially as the strut is functional. Perhaps hardening the area with CA might surfice.

I also found it curious that the instructions call to use locking compound on the strut screws everytime they are assembled at the field. Don't really see what good that is going to do as it takes loctite time to set up. I've never had a strut bolt come lose once the lock washer is snugged down.

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

I use a little bit of blue Loc-tite when I mount the struts and haven't had any problems with them coming loose. I didn't do any hardening with CA but it's not a bad idea.

Tisoy909

My Feedback: (21)

Hey guys, can i ask if any of you have the approximate diameter of the Pac Aero Monocoupe's cowl?
Thank you!
Louie

mobyal

Checked the balance on mine today on my new EZ Balancer. WAY noseheavy. I'm going to move the flite battery to a platform just in front of the former behind the servo platform and see if that'll do it. If not, I'm gonna have to add some weight to the tail. Shouldn't be too much tho.
I knew it was nose heavy by using the "fingertip" method, but not how much. I'll fiddle around with it over the weekend and see how things come out.
By the way, the EZ Balancer's expensive, but a first-class piece of work, and sure does make things easier w/ the big ones!
Al

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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You are comparing a scale model to a 3D model? You are correct in thinking that they will not handle the same.

The few reviews I've read of the model say that it flies very well and lands slowly, contrary to what one would think about such a small wing area for the weight.

I can't wait to get mine going.


Ed Cregger

YBP

You can´t compare wingarea and loading between an Extra with a fully symmetrical airfoil and the flat bottom monocoupe. The monocoupe airfoil will lift way more for every sq. in. compared to the Extra.

If theory and real life don´t add up, the wrong theory is used.

Lars.

GBR2

My Feedback: (1)

There are videos of the plane flying - flies great. I've just started the build and it has been going very well. Certainly one of the better built ARF's that I have seen. Also check out the review in RC Report, January 2008 issue.

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

Take a second look at the Monocoupe airfoil. I'm no aeronautical engineer but it doesn't look flat bottomed to me.

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

I've been wanting one of those for a while now. Will have to make the investment. My planes keep getting bigger and bigger and the ol' Great Planes CG machine isn't up to the task anymore. I had to hang both my flight pack (5-cell sub C and onboard glow pack 4-cell sub C back where you're indicating in order to get mine to balance.