sj3cub

My Feedback: (9)

Your Cub looks great on those floats! I need to get off my butt and mount mine.

Garrelc

My Feedback: (2)

Anyone Installed a Saito FG30 in their Cub?
Weight/ power concerns?

To Cub or Not to Cub[>:]

Mustang314

My Feedback: (1)

The FG 30 should have plenty of power. I am using the FG 20 in mine and have flown it with the H9 floats with no problems. The FG 30 will come in roughly 16 oz. more than the FG 20. The additional power of the FG 30 should more than make up for the extra weight. Take a look at my post #456.
Fred

Baron b58

Got this shot the other day; Saito 125 flies this plane nicely.

vetter63

I recently purchased a used PNP 1/4 scale Hanger 9 Cub. To set it up, I had to install a new receiver. I think the Cub will need to have some rudder mixed into ailerons for better turning. Does anyone have a suggestion for how much rudder deflection is required for smooth turns?[:-]

louierc

Well - I'm sure this will start a controversy, but you are better off to learn to fly both sticks. This permits and promotes better control when taking off and landing, as well as making cross control possible to do side slips, etc. If you must mix, start at 20%.
Louie

Walter D

My Feedback: (16)

I second the above opinion, on turns rudder is the basic control and actually opposite aileron is required in order to keep the wings at a minimum bank, more like the full scale. I've never coupled ailerons and rudder on any of my airplanes, but I believe it would only couple if only the aileron stick is used and whenever rudder is inputed it takes precedence over the coupling, in essence, the coupling would probably never be activated when flying in a scale like manner.

Smokin Cap

My Feedback: (49)

Cant agree more with the above 2 posts! Fly it like the real deal. You will be a better pilot for it.

HornetFitter

My Feedback: (2)

I concur...

vetter63

Thanks for input guys. I've not had a lot of rudder practice in the past, but sounds like I should get up to speed.

bucho

My Feedback: (6)

for sure, the J3 will teach you to use the ruder like no other plane....and this will be good for you and your other planes... no mixes in scale planes,,,

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

I'd like to ask how exactly one does a side-slip. I have been flying for a long time, and never learned. My H-9 Cub will be ready in a few weeks and I understand that Cubs slip well. Thank you in advance!

HornetFitter

My Feedback: (2)

Side slipping is like putting on the brakes with the trade off being altitude if no additional thrust is added. Slipping, is just a way of yawing (or skidding) the airplane with the use of rudder and ailerons to create additional drag. It is really handy in situations where there is a short approach of you need to lose altitude quickly without gaining a lot of airspeed.

Execution: Simply kick the rudder left, if the wind is from 180- 360 degrees (relative) and then compensate for the induced roll to the left, with some right aileron. The airplane will then "crab" and slow down, which results in a loss of lift and subsequently a loss of altitude.
For relative wind from 001 to 180 degrees, use right rudder coupled with left aileron to keep the wngs level.
Simple as that!

alangranvue

My Feedback: (11)

I'm hoping to buy one of these at the Perry, GA swap meet next month.  Unless someone has a 1/3 sale at a decent price

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

HornetFitter,

So, what you are saying is that the side area is used as an airbrake to slow the plane down. Yaw with rudder and level-out with roll control? I am a little confused by the wind direction reference. Do yo mean if there is a crosswind(to any degree) throw the side area towards the crosswind?

HornetFitter

My Feedback: (2)

Yes on everything except the last. ...


The reason you want to slip (nose) INTO the relative wind, is that by doing so, you can maintain your ground track more accurately.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Hornetfitter,


I understand now. Thank you! I'm now awaiting warm weather.

Planejaw

My Feedback: (53)

Great discussion. Here are a couple of things to keep in mind, as this topic can get a little complicated and it looks like we've got the ailerons and rudder inputs backward in the left-crosswind example.

I have flown full-size aircraft (single-engine, land) for many years and RC for the last 43. Making mistakes and learning while flying our larger bretheren really gives you a great deal of perspective and understanding of aerodynamic forces, including cause and effect. And, basic aerodynamics and aircraft control has been with us for as long as the airplane...and it has changed very little.

First, there are two main types of "slips," the forward-slip, the side-slip, and a little about "crabbing."

The foward-slip is used when you're "high and hot," particularly on final approach. Exactly as Hornetfitter advised, it allows you to increase the overall drag profile of the aircraft without significantly increasing forward airspeed, and therefore, increases sink-rate. Most tail-draggers and biplanes that do not incorporate flaps, have used this technique for the past (almost) 100 years. Now for the most important part, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, slip with your aileron into the wind. In other words, cross-wind from your left, you'll be adding left-aileron input and right-rudder input. You'll add a hefty amount of left aileron and right rudder to get the aircraft to yaw to the right, while the left wing is down, maintaining your ground track, which whould be along the extended runway center-line. You NEVER slip (forward or side) with aileron opposit the wind (this would invite an uncontrolled roll to the right if the wind picked up a little more. Always slip with aileron into the wind. In a forward slip, you want to have the correct amount of aileron and opposit rudder to add to your drag profile, but also to maintain your ground-track on the extended runway centerline. What is the right amount?? It depends on your aircraft, wind profile, weight, etc. Knowing how much of each is more art than science. And don't forget about your throttle, as power management is also critical. If you're looking at your aircraft from the rear and above, you'll see your left wing low, right rudder with the longitudinal (nose to tail) axis of your aircraft yawed to the right, presenting more surface area to the relative wind. But your aircraft will be flying in a straight line, parallell to the extended runway centerline.

Now, as you near the ground, just before you flare, you want to straighten the nose of your aircraft so that the longitudinal axis (from nose to tail) is parallell to the runway centerline. Reduce the aileron/opposit rudder so that you will be slightly left-wing down (for a left cross-wind) with just enough right rudder to maintain the runway centerline. You'll actually touch-down on your left main-wheel, then as the aircraft slows and aerodynamic forces are reduced, you'll then touch down on the right tire. This process is called a side-slip. If there were no wind, your aircraft would actually be turning to the left (your lift-component would translate into a turn to the left). But since you are fighting a cross-wind, your aircraft will maintain the runway centerline and not turn to the left. Reverse all of these inputs for a right cross-wind.

Some may think it's easier to land in a "crabbed" condition, but if you do, you'll place excessive side-loads on your landing gear and make your airplane nearly uncrollable on the ground, just after the main-wheels touch. Crabbing is only used in the air, to maintain a specific ground-track while correcting for a cross-wind condition.

If you're interested, a great aviation book, written in the 1940's, called "Stick and Rudder," by Wolfgang Langewiesche, gives great explanation of aerodynamics, landings, and why aircraft do what they do and how they are controlled.

And that's the 411 on slips and landings.

John

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Anyone,

I have seen pictures of Cubs with "tundra tires" or really big tires for rough terrain. Are these available that will bolt onto the H-9 1/4 scale Cub? My field has problems with mole trails and it is hard on gears. Retracts really suffer....

Thanks in advance!

HornetFitter

My Feedback: (2)

You could get the 5 or 6 inch smooth inflatable Du-Bro ones... They should do the trick.
I have 1/3 scale Du-Bro Cub tires on my 1/4 Cub, but have not tested it so far... Looks good though.

Mustang314

My Feedback: (1)

I have been using the Dubro 6" inflatable tires (uninflated) for a year now. Work great.
Fred

zener3

I use the 4.5 inch inflatables and they work great. My field has a cement runway but I like to land on the grass beside it. Lands much easier that way.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Just a follow-up on the 6" Dubro inflatable tires: Ordered a set and installed them. They actually look "right" for the plane. More so than the original set. Our field is so wet right now that you sink a little just standing still! Will wait for dryer weather and will try them out.

The Old Skeptic

I've had the DuBro 6" inflatable tires now for about the last 50 flights with my H9 1/4 scale Cub. No air in tires or at least veeeerrrrry soft. Will land controllably anywhere, anyplace, anytime. This plane has a tendancy to nose over on clumpy grass with the stock wheels. Would never try to fly this plane without the six inchers. Tundra tires are actually 35" dia. with 2.5 # of air pressure (8.75 " at 1/4 scale) but 6" looks great and derives many favorable comments at the field. But if I find any 8.75" inflatable tires anywhere . . . . . . . .

Ohh, and by the way, I also have a JR G500A gyro on the rudder. Makes me look gooooooood! Take offs and landing are "dialed in". This gyro is not mfd. anymore but Turnigy has a comparable one (TG 380 - 17 bucks out the door) and I will try one of them on my next taildragger. Yeah, I know!! You're supposesd to be a good enough pilot to fly one of these babies straight down the runway without incident, but why screw around with that idea when it's so easy with the gyro? Besides, at age 80, I probably don't have that much time left to really get a better handle on it.

Ed . . . .

louierc

Ed - I'd like to hear more about the gyro install and operation. Can you provide more info, install, setup, use?