GP Lancair ES Pictures
#526
RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
I have the fiber glass tips to glue on, but they only cover about 1/4" of the actual wing. As in the pictures above, the warp/droop actually happens about 8-10" from the end of the wing. Again it isn't horribly drastic, but sitting on the runway looking at it head on it may be more noticeable and bothersome.
#527
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RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
I have a spare wing at home (one was damaged in the box and I recieved a recplacement) I will look at it when I go home and get back to you on it.
Best regards
Randy
Best regards
Randy
#528
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RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
Hi guys,
Well, after having my kit for nearly four years and moving it internationally TWICE, I finally got around to assembling it!! I flew it this morning for the first time and must say that it is everything that I'd heard it would be. Only one click of aileron trim and one of elevator, and we were set.... Nicest ARF I've built or flown (although the E-Flite Extra 260 is a pretty close second!). Having said that, mine had some minor marks in the glass where the formers were glued in, and also a bit of crazing on the wing fairing. One flap was twisted slightly and I needed to adjust it slightly up to offset the rolling moment it would have given me (obviously I got it pretty close as it only needed one click of trim to fine tune)
Mostly, I assembled my Lancair as per instructions, but I deviated in the following areas:-
1. Used an OS 75AX. This fitted exactly the same as the 61FX would have and I could use the Top Flite in-cowl muffler too! Heaps of power and such a nice engine to start and run - typical OS of course.
2. Sandwiched carbon fibre between the wing joiners. I didn't use fibreglass on the centre section as I didn't want to mess with the covering material and have to find the same colour to match the original. Just lazy, but I don't plan on giving this model too much of a workout.
3. Used Hitec wing servos for the ailerons and mounted them on hardwood blocks that I epoxied directly to the balsa top sheeting. I didn't fully trust myself to use the heatshrink and glue method, and in any case wanted to have less hassle when I went to remove them for another future project.
4 Used a Robart nosegear instead of the supplied item. It is much more robust in it's looks, but the yoke is much thinner (and therefore more scale-like) than the Sierra item. I have to admit though, that our rough field caused me a small problem, in that my lovely Robart strut absorbed the holes nicely but the steering arm snapped off instead. No damage to the strut or servo so I'm very lucky I guess, but the arm was very weak nevertheless and quite disappointing. I'll be talking to the Robart folks to see what they can do for me....
5. I don't like stick-on registrations and scale details, so I drew my own on my computer with CorelDraw and made them into waterslide decals. At the same time I gave it an Australian identity - yes, of course I'm biased. Although I didn't go all out, it has an oil filler door on the top of the cowl, fuel caps, and a few personal logos as if it were an owner-flown business aircraft.
6. I fitted a remote plug lead so I could minimize the holes in the cowl. It works fine and keeps my hands away from the prop - even better.
7 . Because the 75 was 5 ounces heavier than the 61FX, I filled the tail tube with lead shot to ensure the Lancair balanced as per instructions.
Things to watch for:-
1. Take care when mounting the engine. I accepted the recommended position for the mount, but didn't drill the holes for the engine until I'd dry-fitted the cowl. The spacing from cowl to spinner can then be correctly set. In my case, I accepted a slight lateral misalignment. If I'd been really pedantic, I would have relocated the mount slightly to the left (looking forward from the cockpit).
2. When the wing was first mounted to the fuselage, my flaps were hitting the lower fuselage fairing and not fully retracting. This gave me a slight chatter from the servo and of course it didn't look right. I had to trim the innermost corner of the flaps to let them clear this area. The other option was to use a dremel to grind away the fibreglass, but that would be more messy than necessary.
As I said, the model flies very well, is quite stable and looks great. Additionally, mine has NO trim change with flaps, which quite surprised me. Although I've only got the one flight to judge by, I'm very happy with it and feel that - barring mishaps - I'll be enjoying this model for some time to come.
Well, after having my kit for nearly four years and moving it internationally TWICE, I finally got around to assembling it!! I flew it this morning for the first time and must say that it is everything that I'd heard it would be. Only one click of aileron trim and one of elevator, and we were set.... Nicest ARF I've built or flown (although the E-Flite Extra 260 is a pretty close second!). Having said that, mine had some minor marks in the glass where the formers were glued in, and also a bit of crazing on the wing fairing. One flap was twisted slightly and I needed to adjust it slightly up to offset the rolling moment it would have given me (obviously I got it pretty close as it only needed one click of trim to fine tune)
Mostly, I assembled my Lancair as per instructions, but I deviated in the following areas:-
1. Used an OS 75AX. This fitted exactly the same as the 61FX would have and I could use the Top Flite in-cowl muffler too! Heaps of power and such a nice engine to start and run - typical OS of course.
2. Sandwiched carbon fibre between the wing joiners. I didn't use fibreglass on the centre section as I didn't want to mess with the covering material and have to find the same colour to match the original. Just lazy, but I don't plan on giving this model too much of a workout.
3. Used Hitec wing servos for the ailerons and mounted them on hardwood blocks that I epoxied directly to the balsa top sheeting. I didn't fully trust myself to use the heatshrink and glue method, and in any case wanted to have less hassle when I went to remove them for another future project.
4 Used a Robart nosegear instead of the supplied item. It is much more robust in it's looks, but the yoke is much thinner (and therefore more scale-like) than the Sierra item. I have to admit though, that our rough field caused me a small problem, in that my lovely Robart strut absorbed the holes nicely but the steering arm snapped off instead. No damage to the strut or servo so I'm very lucky I guess, but the arm was very weak nevertheless and quite disappointing. I'll be talking to the Robart folks to see what they can do for me....
5. I don't like stick-on registrations and scale details, so I drew my own on my computer with CorelDraw and made them into waterslide decals. At the same time I gave it an Australian identity - yes, of course I'm biased. Although I didn't go all out, it has an oil filler door on the top of the cowl, fuel caps, and a few personal logos as if it were an owner-flown business aircraft.
6. I fitted a remote plug lead so I could minimize the holes in the cowl. It works fine and keeps my hands away from the prop - even better.
7 . Because the 75 was 5 ounces heavier than the 61FX, I filled the tail tube with lead shot to ensure the Lancair balanced as per instructions.
Things to watch for:-
1. Take care when mounting the engine. I accepted the recommended position for the mount, but didn't drill the holes for the engine until I'd dry-fitted the cowl. The spacing from cowl to spinner can then be correctly set. In my case, I accepted a slight lateral misalignment. If I'd been really pedantic, I would have relocated the mount slightly to the left (looking forward from the cockpit).
2. When the wing was first mounted to the fuselage, my flaps were hitting the lower fuselage fairing and not fully retracting. This gave me a slight chatter from the servo and of course it didn't look right. I had to trim the innermost corner of the flaps to let them clear this area. The other option was to use a dremel to grind away the fibreglass, but that would be more messy than necessary.
As I said, the model flies very well, is quite stable and looks great. Additionally, mine has NO trim change with flaps, which quite surprised me. Although I've only got the one flight to judge by, I'm very happy with it and feel that - barring mishaps - I'll be enjoying this model for some time to come.
#529
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RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
Hey oldtimer, how are you mate? Congratulations and glad to hear things went well with your Lancair down under in Australia (been to Sidney a couple of times myself and love it!). Just fly that Lancair in a scale manner and you'll get many years of enjoyment, mine is 5 years old and I always have a good time flying it!
Well, Happy Flying!
Orie
Well, Happy Flying!
Orie
#530
RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
My Lancair is nearing completion. My biggest decision at the moment is how I'm going to route the OS muffler for the .91 four stroke. I wasn't going to buy the Pitts muffler, but instead think I might try to go the route the RCU reviewer went as shown in this picture:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/r.../246/img84.jpg
He states in the review that it's a 90 degree header between the stock header and the muffler, but it looks like a 45 degree elbow to me.
I trusted the guys here that have said they had no problems with their wings after years of flying, but I'm also guilty of not flying exactly to scale 100% of the time. So I opted to add some strengthening touches. I sandwiched carbon fiber between the ply joiner, filled the root rib openings with ply, cut into the sheeting to the spar on the bottom of the wing and added carbon fiber directly over the spar, and added 4" nylon cloth over the center section. I think it's overkill, but that's the way I like it. It'll give me peace of mind and I won't flinch every time I come down on a high speed pass. [8D]
Haven't found any aluminum sheet or strips to put over the landing gear yet, but at this point I feel like it's not needed. If I come across some though I'll still add it.
Attached some pics of the progress with the wing. As of tonight though the wing is finished, with the center section on the bottom recovered (in insignia blue, but I think that's the color the cowl and landing gear were painted already anyhow). If I can get the muffler situation figured out this week sometime I should be able to fly it this weekend. If I opt to order the header elbow the maiden might have to wait another week.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/r.../246/img84.jpg
He states in the review that it's a 90 degree header between the stock header and the muffler, but it looks like a 45 degree elbow to me.
I trusted the guys here that have said they had no problems with their wings after years of flying, but I'm also guilty of not flying exactly to scale 100% of the time. So I opted to add some strengthening touches. I sandwiched carbon fiber between the ply joiner, filled the root rib openings with ply, cut into the sheeting to the spar on the bottom of the wing and added carbon fiber directly over the spar, and added 4" nylon cloth over the center section. I think it's overkill, but that's the way I like it. It'll give me peace of mind and I won't flinch every time I come down on a high speed pass. [8D]
Haven't found any aluminum sheet or strips to put over the landing gear yet, but at this point I feel like it's not needed. If I come across some though I'll still add it.
Attached some pics of the progress with the wing. As of tonight though the wing is finished, with the center section on the bottom recovered (in insignia blue, but I think that's the color the cowl and landing gear were painted already anyhow). If I can get the muffler situation figured out this week sometime I should be able to fly it this weekend. If I opt to order the header elbow the maiden might have to wait another week.
#531
RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
And maiden flight complete! Finished the Lancair Saturday evening and put two flights on it Sunday after running a couple of tanks through the new engine on the ground first. I have the .91 purring perfectly and it's an awesome match for this plane as most everyone here already knows.
I decided to hold off on the front strut (that'll rent me a 172 for an hour! ) for now and see how it goes, and I have no complaints about the factory wire so far. I can see how it'd be easy to bang it up on a bad landing, so I'll just avoid any bad landings. [8D]
Anyway, here are a couple pics someone snagged for me. Enjoy.
I decided to hold off on the front strut (that'll rent me a 172 for an hour! ) for now and see how it goes, and I have no complaints about the factory wire so far. I can see how it'd be easy to bang it up on a bad landing, so I'll just avoid any bad landings. [8D]
Anyway, here are a couple pics someone snagged for me. Enjoy.
#532
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RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
Congrats on your maiden Cobra! Glad to hear everything went well, btw what type/size 3-blad prop did you wind up using? In regards to the nose strut, as long as you're flying off paved runway you're ok, but if you go to grass you'll soon find out that wire strut will not hold for long!
#534
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RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
I am using the after market nose strut and have a problem with it. If it becomes fully compressed it sticks in that position. I did a take off with out noticing the strut being stuck and almost lost the plane. The nose down attitude would not allow it to rotate and after gather great momentum, I had to abort take off and make a hard turn to avoid the rough. No damage but close.. too close. I need to put some kind of rubber stopper at the bottom of the stroke to ensure it cannot commpress too far... maybe just an O ring.
Best regards,
Randy
Best regards,
Randy
#535
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RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
Randy, if you do that you'll defeat the purpose of having an "oleo" strut in the first place. I know we're using them in the first instance because they are stronger than the one supplied in the kit, but the real benefit comes from their shock-absorbing properties. To shorten the stroke or eliminate it completely will just give you a VERY strong nosegear with absolutely no give at all and the net result will be damage to the firewall - something much more difficult to repair.
Far better to have the nosegear off the airframe and dissassemble it to see where and why it is binding and not extending. I know that Robart for example will service their gear (for a $25.00 fee). If you can't find the cause and fix it yourself, perhaps it would be worth sending it in for repair. Either way, I wouldn't keep using it the way it is, and I wouldn't modify it the way you intend...
Cheers,
Greg
Far better to have the nosegear off the airframe and dissassemble it to see where and why it is binding and not extending. I know that Robart for example will service their gear (for a $25.00 fee). If you can't find the cause and fix it yourself, perhaps it would be worth sending it in for repair. Either way, I wouldn't keep using it the way it is, and I wouldn't modify it the way you intend...
Cheers,
Greg
#536
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RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
I was thinking of a single o ring to act act a bumper to prevent over compression, not to significantly reduce the trave, lol. A O ring is about 1/16th of an inch thick and it will compress abit, but should stop it from bottoming out. The strut has adjustable tension but I have tried all settings. Ever time the strut completely compresses it sticks in the compressed mode. Next time I take it out I will take it a apart and try to find out why, but the spring is too soft and even at max tenison it compresses too easy.
Thanks,
Randy
Thanks,
Randy
#538
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RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
Cobra 99,
Thanks for keeping this going.
The GP Lancair ES has been out for years. I finally got one and I'm hoping these threads lead me to a clean, no hassle build. Unless I get some real eye rolling responses I'm going to try to use a newly rebuilt O.S. 91 C-Spec from an old heli. Did great on a bench test and it fits sooo...find a compatible muffler and see how it goes. Slap some composite material between the wing joiners, glass it up, use a handy Robart RoboStrut in the nose and done.
Thanks for keeping this going.
The GP Lancair ES has been out for years. I finally got one and I'm hoping these threads lead me to a clean, no hassle build. Unless I get some real eye rolling responses I'm going to try to use a newly rebuilt O.S. 91 C-Spec from an old heli. Did great on a bench test and it fits sooo...find a compatible muffler and see how it goes. Slap some composite material between the wing joiners, glass it up, use a handy Robart RoboStrut in the nose and done.
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RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
I have maidened mine a few weeks ago with axi 4120/16 and 6s 3700 packs. With 15x10 prop I had 10 min. flights with only 2700mAH out.
Yesterday I crashed it:/ It was a sweet looking and flying plane but if you try to convert it into acrobat it can crash ;]
I ordered wing coveres for myself but now I simply don't need them anymore. If anyone is interested please see this page. The shop owner asked me to put info on lancair sites.
REVOC
This is the wing and horizontal stab, apx. 70-80$. Had already bought them for my other planes and what I can say it that quaility is second to none. I am sure you will be impressed.
Pawel
Yesterday I crashed it:/ It was a sweet looking and flying plane but if you try to convert it into acrobat it can crash ;]
I ordered wing coveres for myself but now I simply don't need them anymore. If anyone is interested please see this page. The shop owner asked me to put info on lancair sites.
REVOC
This is the wing and horizontal stab, apx. 70-80$. Had already bought them for my other planes and what I can say it that quaility is second to none. I am sure you will be impressed.
Pawel
#541
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RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
I just got the Lancair. Looks like a bit of work to build right.
Already glassed center section.
I'm going to use Saito 91 with 3 blade prop.
Does anyone know about Tru Turn spinners for this setup.
I know I need the 2-3/4".
Can I use the standard spinner or will I need the one with the larger 120 size cutouts?
Already glassed center section.
I'm going to use Saito 91 with 3 blade prop.
Does anyone know about Tru Turn spinners for this setup.
I know I need the 2-3/4".
Can I use the standard spinner or will I need the one with the larger 120 size cutouts?
#543
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RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
Guys, maybe you need some great covers for your wings? As I said before I crashed my lancair a few days after I ordered them... More infor here: http://www.revoc.eu/skrzydla-revoc-custom-c-22_38.html
I want just 80 bucks for them...
I want just 80 bucks for them...
#545
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RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
Ok Lancair fans! I've been lurking on this thread over the years and wanted to share my latest creation with everyone. I had a member of my club paint my GP Lancair similar to the paint scheme I found on the current Lancair website for the ES model. I used alot of the suggestions by sdcrashmaster and others to make this one sweet airplane! I used the baggage door hatch Idea and made a tray for the elevator and rudder servos and the battery is sunk down at the back of the tray. With a Saito .91 on the front it balanced perfectly! No added weight anywhere. I only wish this wasn't a now discontinued kit. This is my second one and I love it. I hope I can find another NIB for my #3. Maybe GP could re-release this airplane in a couple years with this same color scheme? Are you listening Great Planes? Worth a try. Oh, and the instrument panel is a picture from the internet I 3M'd to the light ply plate I shaped to fit it. The dark grey dash is actually a chunk of 6mm grey depron foam I shaped by sliding and bending it over a table and then heating with my heat gun. I used the one piece landing gear from TNT landing gear and had it painted to match the color scheme. I fly at a field with a runway but have to taxi on the grass alot so I opted to not mess with the wheel pants. Besides I like my front landing gear with the spring on the front, which makes mounting the front pant challenging anyway. I think it looks good like this, even though it's not as scale. I've got 4 flights on so far and am happy to have a second Lancair in the air. - Tim(loudbikes)
#546
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RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
Very nice loudbikes, congratulations on being different! You've got a great looking airplane there, I can't believe this thread is still alive, years after I started it! You've got to let us in on that nose strut though, is that your own design/fabrication or did you purchase from someone? I still have my Lancair and would love to have one of those. On another note, try to make your pictures smaller before you post them, I'm suprised you were able to post them at all at those kind of pixels!
#547
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RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
Ok. I tried to use the beta picture downloader and my pictures were HUGE, so I deleted and re-downloaded them one at a time and they look normal now. I got my front landing gear leg from www.goldenskiesrc.com. This was several years ago, but I checked the website and it's still up. I beleive my wheels came from them too. The legs and wheels are surprisingly light weight! I think the legs are aluminum, and the wheels have aluminum hubs with rubberized foam tires. I used the same wheels from my first Lancair that I flew for a couple years. They seem to wear well on the asphalt runway I fly from. - Tim
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RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
Here's some pics of my motor setup I took with my cellphone during the build. I bought one of those "Turboheader" mufflers they're always advertizing in the for sale section and I love it! This muffler is sooo much better than the stock one and has a nice lip machined around the outlet that keeps my muffler extension from coming off. I bought the adapter that allowed me to put the muffler in just the right position to come out the bottom where I wanted it. I recomend these to anyone who is thinking about getting one. They're a little spendy at $70, but very well made! Also, I used the Graupner 12x8 3 blade prop. It seems to load the motor just fine. I think the blades are fatter than the Master Airscrew 13x8 that alot of guys are using on the .91's. I like the grey color and the shape of these. I need to paint the double white lines on the blades. That will make it look alot more scale - Tim
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RE: GP Lancair ES Pictures
Here's a few more of my build and assembly pics I took with my cell phone. You can see the 6mm grey depron foam I used for the dash above the instrument panel. The instrument panel is 3m'd to the light ply panel I shaped to fit it. I had to epoxy a couple of pieces of light ply with large triangle stock to the inside walls of the fuselage to give me somewhere to screw on the panel. I glued the depron dash to the panel with foam safe medium CA once it was in position. Now if I need to get to the fuel tank, I just have to take out the panel screws and pull it forward. The dash isn't glued to the fuse at all, just to the instrument panel. I also spent hours upon hours sanding the blue paint and all the thick paint lines off the fuselage. I had to get out the black and decker mouse sander!- Tim