Great Planes Escapade .40 ARF
#1726
RE: Great Planes Escapade .40 ARF
Yep. From the very beginning there was always some guy who wanted or did overpower the 40 Escapade. If you really want to do it, go ahead. For me, I think trying to get enough power without being crazy is where I would want to be. But that's just my opinion and I haven't put mine together yet. I plan on using a Magnum XLS 46. Should be plenty of power.
#1728
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Apple Valley,
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RE: Great Planes Escapade .40 ARF
How fast would you consider 'high speed' for the Escapade? I've clocked mine at 98mph (running electric) and it's rock solid.
ORIGINAL: jeffie8696
The Epade is known for having difficulties with high speed flutter so pushing the speed is done with caution.
The Epade is known for having difficulties with high speed flutter so pushing the speed is done with caution.
#1729
Senior Member
RE: Great Planes Escapade .40 ARF
Perhaps yours has had the mods to prevent flutter? Or maybe you got one of the better ones. Mine fluttered with an Irvine 53 using an 11X7 prop. No damage but it did get my attention. And I had made mods to stop flutter.
I am not being critical of the Epade it is one of my favorite planes but it has its limitations.
In fact I am leaving just now to go fly it.
I am not being critical of the Epade it is one of my favorite planes but it has its limitations.
In fact I am leaving just now to go fly it.
#1730
Senior Member
So, what happened to this thread? I am happy to report that I have literally nearly flown the wheels off my Epade and it is still fantastic. I have tried several engines and so far my favorite is the four stroke 52. It currently has an old Super Tigre 40 which does a good job too.
#1732
My Feedback: (34)
What's with the bolt holding the fuse sides together? Is that needed?
Jerry
Jerry
So, what happened to this thread? I am happy to report that I have literally nearly flown the wheels off my Epade and it is still fantastic. I have tried several engines and so far my favorite is the four stroke 52. It currently has an old Super Tigre 40 which does a good job too.
#1737
Senior Member
#1738
I also have run 5 different engines on it and plan on testing a sixth one next summer. I have not tried any 4-strokes yet because I would have to carve out the cowl cheeks for the needle valve. You don't need that for 2-strokds unless you use a remote needle. Mine is 6 years old and I've already had to do repairs and recovering, but still flies great.
#1739
And now , for something completely different , I present , , !!!! NAKED Escapade !!!!
This is my version of one of my favorite planes . It has a few small modifications that I incorporated in it's assembly such as ;
All control surfaces have full length mylar hinges to keep any air from becoming turbulent at the control surface . This is done in an attempt to eliminate flutter , which has not yet been seen in this model with the sealed hinges .
Tail surfaces are glued on , after regluing the infamous not well glued elevator joiner rod , mine is one of the first sold and did have the improperly glued joiner . I was just lucky to be a few months lazy getting it done and by then the problem was widely known , see , procrastination ain't ALL bad
I removed all stickers and replaced them with my AMA number . Looks somewhat cleaner in my opinion .
No pilot cause my running joke is that "It's MY seat , why would I let some other guy sit there ?"
On board glow cause I'm lazy and don't like fiddling around with glow sticks . Flick a switch on the TX , Flip the prop , and fly
I always favor wood props and real metal spinners , OK , call me old fashioned but plastic just don't do it for me , prop and spinner wise .
Anyway , I tried to give a close up of the needle valve and that in this particular instance with an OS 56 FSa , no carving of the cheeks was needed (OUCH !!! Sounds flippin painful !)
This is my version of one of my favorite planes . It has a few small modifications that I incorporated in it's assembly such as ;
All control surfaces have full length mylar hinges to keep any air from becoming turbulent at the control surface . This is done in an attempt to eliminate flutter , which has not yet been seen in this model with the sealed hinges .
Tail surfaces are glued on , after regluing the infamous not well glued elevator joiner rod , mine is one of the first sold and did have the improperly glued joiner . I was just lucky to be a few months lazy getting it done and by then the problem was widely known , see , procrastination ain't ALL bad
I removed all stickers and replaced them with my AMA number . Looks somewhat cleaner in my opinion .
No pilot cause my running joke is that "It's MY seat , why would I let some other guy sit there ?"
On board glow cause I'm lazy and don't like fiddling around with glow sticks . Flick a switch on the TX , Flip the prop , and fly
I always favor wood props and real metal spinners , OK , call me old fashioned but plastic just don't do it for me , prop and spinner wise .
Anyway , I tried to give a close up of the needle valve and that in this particular instance with an OS 56 FSa , no carving of the cheeks was needed (OUCH !!! Sounds flippin painful !)
Last edited by init4fun; 12-10-2014 at 07:54 AM.
#1742
Thank you hsukaria , and in my opinion , any talk of any kind of Escapade oughta be ok , course I am not any kinds of "thread purist" and consider ALL plane talk worthy of being printed
A couple of things i forgot to mention were that I went with nylon bolts on the landing gear as well as a decent set of DuBro rubber wheels . I also went with the optional two servo setup on the Ailerons rather than the single . I realize it's twice the weight , but with the sealed hinges one servo seemed to be slower in full left to full right stick maneuvers than the dual servos are . Even with the on board glow I still came out a tiny bit tail heavy and chose to add extra nose weight in the form of a brushed on coating of thinned down epoxy to all exposed wood of the firewall and cheeks . I do this to every glow or gas ARF I have and have not lost one yet to the dreaded "firewall mush" that unprotected wood turns into after being soaked in fuel for a while .
A couple of things i forgot to mention were that I went with nylon bolts on the landing gear as well as a decent set of DuBro rubber wheels . I also went with the optional two servo setup on the Ailerons rather than the single . I realize it's twice the weight , but with the sealed hinges one servo seemed to be slower in full left to full right stick maneuvers than the dual servos are . Even with the on board glow I still came out a tiny bit tail heavy and chose to add extra nose weight in the form of a brushed on coating of thinned down epoxy to all exposed wood of the firewall and cheeks . I do this to every glow or gas ARF I have and have not lost one yet to the dreaded "firewall mush" that unprotected wood turns into after being soaked in fuel for a while .
#1744
Thank you hsukaria , and in my opinion , any talk of any kind of Escapade oughta be ok , course I am not any kinds of "thread purist" and consider ALL plane talk worthy of being printed
A couple of things i forgot to mention were that I went with nylon bolts on the landing gear as well as a decent set of DuBro rubber wheels . I also went with the optional two servo setup on the Ailerons rather than the single . I realize it's twice the weight , but with the sealed hinges one servo seemed to be slower in full left to full right stick maneuvers than the dual servos are . Even with the on board glow I still came out a tiny bit tail heavy and chose to add extra nose weight in the form of a brushed on coating of thinned down epoxy to all exposed wood of the firewall and cheeks . I do this to every glow or gas ARF I have and have not lost one yet to the dreaded "firewall mush" that unprotected wood turns into after being soaked in fuel for a while .
A couple of things i forgot to mention were that I went with nylon bolts on the landing gear as well as a decent set of DuBro rubber wheels . I also went with the optional two servo setup on the Ailerons rather than the single . I realize it's twice the weight , but with the sealed hinges one servo seemed to be slower in full left to full right stick maneuvers than the dual servos are . Even with the on board glow I still came out a tiny bit tail heavy and chose to add extra nose weight in the form of a brushed on coating of thinned down epoxy to all exposed wood of the firewall and cheeks . I do this to every glow or gas ARF I have and have not lost one yet to the dreaded "firewall mush" that unprotected wood turns into after being soaked in fuel for a while .
#1745
Join Date: Oct 2013
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And now , for something completely different , I present , , !!!! NAKED Escapade !!!!
This is my version of one of my favorite planes . It has a few small modifications that I incorporated in it's assembly such as ;
All control surfaces have full length mylar hinges to keep any air from becoming turbulent at the control surface . This is done in an attempt to eliminate flutter , which has not yet been seen in this model with the sealed hinges .
Tail surfaces are glued on , after regluing the infamous not well glued elevator joiner rod , mine is one of the first sold and did have the improperly glued joiner . I was just lucky to be a few months lazy getting it done and by then the problem was widely known , see , procrastination ain't ALL bad
I removed all stickers and replaced them with my AMA number . Looks somewhat cleaner in my opinion .
No pilot cause my running joke is that "It's MY seat , why would I let some other guy sit there ?"
On board glow cause I'm lazy and don't like fiddling around with glow sticks . Flick a switch on the TX , Flip the prop , and fly
I always favor wood props and real metal spinners , OK , call me old fashioned but plastic just don't do it for me , prop and spinner wise .
Anyway , I tried to give a close up of the needle valve and that in this particular instance with an OS 56 FSa , no carving of the cheeks was needed (OUCH !!! Sounds flippin painful !)
This is my version of one of my favorite planes . It has a few small modifications that I incorporated in it's assembly such as ;
All control surfaces have full length mylar hinges to keep any air from becoming turbulent at the control surface . This is done in an attempt to eliminate flutter , which has not yet been seen in this model with the sealed hinges .
Tail surfaces are glued on , after regluing the infamous not well glued elevator joiner rod , mine is one of the first sold and did have the improperly glued joiner . I was just lucky to be a few months lazy getting it done and by then the problem was widely known , see , procrastination ain't ALL bad
I removed all stickers and replaced them with my AMA number . Looks somewhat cleaner in my opinion .
No pilot cause my running joke is that "It's MY seat , why would I let some other guy sit there ?"
On board glow cause I'm lazy and don't like fiddling around with glow sticks . Flick a switch on the TX , Flip the prop , and fly
I always favor wood props and real metal spinners , OK , call me old fashioned but plastic just don't do it for me , prop and spinner wise .
Anyway , I tried to give a close up of the needle valve and that in this particular instance with an OS 56 FSa , no carving of the cheeks was needed (OUCH !!! Sounds flippin painful !)
Vey nice and clean thats what im doing with mine. No stickers at all. How does it fly with with the OS, im waiting for nice and warmer weather so i can maiden mine.
#1748
Senior Member
My Epade 40 died in a spectacular fashion during the air show. I even received an award for most spectacular air show crash with it. It had hundreds of flights on it and was being used for the combat event. Went in at over 100 mph. It was a patched up fuel soaked mess so no tears were shed.
#1750
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I just bought an escapade .40 ( along with the new 30cc escapade) going to use an old fp .40 I have laying around. Has anybody here who has glued on the tail section removed the screws and nuts that are used to attach the tail to the fuse? I ask cause of all that have had to add nose weight. I Plan on trashing that stuff, also the stock tailwheel assy with a standard .40 size dubro unit. Also the push rod and outer sleave that operate the stock tail wheel will also be trashed. The O.S. FP .40 is light so im hoping that will go a long way in preventing or atleast reducing the amount of nose weight. Also the servos I will be using are hyperion 16 gram digital servos. They have approx. the same amount of torque as a standard futaba 3004 but they are twice as fast and they are also a lot lighter. Using 5 of the hyperion servos vs 5 futaba servos I will save more then 4 oz, all of that behind the cg. Also it looks as though I can raise the fuel tank floor enough to add a 5 cell hump pack on its sides under it just behind the firewall. Starting on it today, Should be done tomorrow then I can start on the 30cc escapade.