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  1. #701

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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    I just bought a TopFlite AT-6 ARF. I'm putting the DLE 20 in it too. I was curious if you rotated the cylinder 180 on the DLE 20 you could make a scale type exhuast outlet. Maybe a striaght pipe? Now thats a good idea if you ask me! Me being an ex giant scale pylon racer and all! Hehehehe!


    Ken

  2. #702

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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    I just bought a TopFlite AT-6 ARF. I'm putting the DLE 20 in it too. I was curious if you rotated the cylinder 180 on the DLE 20 you could make a scale type exhuast outlet. Maybe a striaght pipe? Now thats a good idea if you ask me! Me being an ex giant scale pylon racer and all! Hehehehe!


    Ken

    Sorry for the double reply. Im getting used to the message board thing! lol

  3. #703
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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF


    ORIGINAL: Hyprmtr

    I just bought a TopFlite AT-6 ARF. I'm putting the DLE 20 in it too. I was curious if you rotated the cylinder 180 on the DLE 20 you could make a scale type exhuast outlet. Maybe a striaght pipe? Now thats a good idea if you ask me! Me being an ex giant scale pylon racer and all! Hehehehe!


    Ken
    Hi Ken;
    Welcome to the TopFlite AT-6 ARF thread. Lots of very good info in here about this bird. Like always, if you need help or have a question, just post!!!
    Sonny
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    jet22b
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  4. #704

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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    I'll be posting some progress on the SNJ Texan later today. The sliding canopy is about done. The rear most portion is all that remains. It was complicated since it slides from both ends, but it's working and looking pretty good.
    Also the dummy P&W R-1340 has been detailed out a bit more too. After the fuse is done then the wing will be next.
    Later ~
    Dick
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  5. #705

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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    This is what the canopy has evolved into. It functions as planned and I'm fairly pleased. The rear portion hasn't been secured yet as I'm not yet certain I trust myself to cut it. I've been not feeling that well (allergy crap) and don't want to take a chance on screwing it up. When I feel more clear headed I hope to get it done.

    This is my fourth attempt as doing a canopy mod and the the most complicated but as usual it's been a good learning experience so far and I'm looking forward to adding more scale detail before it's ready to fly.

    Cheers,

    Dick

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  6. #706
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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    Dick,
    You are doing one great job on the Texan!!! You will turn heads this spring when you go to your club field!!! Get better soon and keep us updated. Now can I send you my Texan for the same mod? Just kidding!!!
    Sonny
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  7. #707

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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    Dick

    That is really looking awesome.
    Do it right the first time, or not at all!

  8. #708

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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    The rear section of the canopy was cut, fitted and glued last night. It looks pretty good but I need to fair it into the fuse. If anyone has any tips on what material would work let me know. I was thinking epoxy mixed with micro baloons but I'm not sure as I've never used it before.
    Thanks,
    Dick
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  9. #709
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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    I would think epoxy micro balloons would not be the best option for a couple of reasons. First is that the mix is extremely brittle and prone to cracking and second it would likely not bond to either the plastic canopy nor covering all that well.

    For canopy bonding I use wallpaper edge glue available at Home Depot and it can be contoured with a wet fingertip. Also, it dries completely clear.
    Club Saito Member # 787
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  10. #710

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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF


    Thanks for the inspiring comments you guys....
    and Cougar, that's sounds interesting, I've never heard of using wallpaper edge glue, I'll look forward to trying it soon as I get a chance.

    Dick
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  11. #711
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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    I find my original RC-56 no longer available or difficult to get here in Canada and the edge glue is a good substitute. A bit runnier out the tube, but I squirt some into a plastic container, wait a bit for it to thicken, then apply with a thin craft paint brush.

    Only problem I found, and one likely to be there with even RC56 or its replacement, is the need for adequate exposure to air to cure. With it sandwiched between a plastic canopy and fuselage frequently the wood will allow this, but painted or impervious surfaces can delay or prevent it altogether. My painted glass Rare Bear was a complete pain as the outside edge cured first, but then prevented air from getting to any more. I had to carve an opening behind the pilot, blow air into it with a fan and then close that off once complete. It took close to a week![:'(]

    If you are applying it to the outside I doubt that would be a problem.
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  12. #712

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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    I'll probably move on to the tail wheel next and put the canopy fairing off for now. The Sullivan Tailwheel arrived from Tower last week so that'll be the next major project. I'm curious why the bottom rear of the fuselage by the rudder clevis access on this plane is so thick.

    I plan on cutting out a removeable panel to add structure to mount the tailwheel assembly. I'd prefer to control the tailwheel together with the rudder without adding another servo and more weight. I need to study on that. If anyone has any experience or advice let me know, I'm still learning.
    Thanks,
    Dick
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  13. #713
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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    Here are repeats of the pics I posted a few pages ago. The Sullivan mounts normally, but has two different spring stiffness options to run back into the bottom of the rudder. You simply poke a hole, harden it with thin CA then bend a 90 in the spring and poke it back into that hole. The spring runs into the top retainter for the gear wire and transfers any rudder deflection to the tailwheel.

    You should be able to locate the tailwheel further forward. Since mine was a secondary install once the plane was complete I was limited.
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  14. #714

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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    You will get a better wheel response, especially with the wheel mounted backward, if you replace the spring wire with a piece of piano wire. You will have to drill out the hole a little but it works great with no wobble. You can bend the wire as shown or insert a Dubro ball socket and thread the wire through that.
    Insanity: Keep doing the same thing expecting a different result.

  15. #715

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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    You will get a better wheel response, especially with the wheel mounted backward, if you replace the spring wire with a piece of piano wire. You will have to drill out the hole a little but it works great with no wobble. You can bend the wire as shown or insert a Dubro ball socket and thread the wire through that.

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD907&P=SM
    Insanity: Keep doing the same thing expecting a different result.

  16. #716
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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    I find no problem with steering response with this setup, during taxi or at high speeds. Moving the wheel forward will reduce the tailwheel/rudder ratio, but as I found with my Skybolt, never an issue.

    That spring prevents tailwheel loads from imposing on the rudder, linkage and servo.
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  17. #717

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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    Thanks for the input on the tailwheel guys, I appreciate it. I've been messing with the cowl and battery hatch today but didn't get very far even with that. My idea with the tailwheel involved trying to make it look and function as much as possible to the full scale without a visably external rudder connection. I'm also considering using a pull pull system and eliminating the control rod/clevis. However, I may need to consider your suggestions and avoid making it so complicated or remind myself the intention is to fly this thing sometime.
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  18. #718
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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    I'm at the same stage right now with the Mits A6M6 Zero on the build table this winter, (in amongst the BAE Hawk!). I modded the tail area with the elevator and rudder controls all internal, (hate external linkage) and this required cutting a portion of the lower fuse open similar to Rare Bear. This gave me access to an areal large enough to mount some form of suspension tailwheel with only the wheel and trunnion to be visible.

    I have a leaf type and several new Sullivans, but they are for the heavier aircraft and would be far too stiff. If I come up with something soon I will post some pics. It could possibly be adapted here, as well.
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  19. #719

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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    That sounds interesting Cougar, I'll be looking forward, and thanks much. I think I'll temporarilly postpone work on the tailwheel for now and move over to something requiring less brain function anyway.
    Cheers,
    Dick
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  20. #720

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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    Tom, Sorry I'm not completely clear about what you mean by mounting the wheel "backward" and replacing the spring wire with piano wire. Could you elaborate a bit more for me..?
    Thanks, Dick
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  21. #721

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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    Sorry Dick, I was looking at it the wrong way!!!![]! Other wise no spring or rod would work.

    Keep up the great work. I am enjoying watching your progress.
    Insanity: Keep doing the same thing expecting a different result.

  22. #722

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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF


    ORIGINAL: TomTreese

    Sorry Dick, I was looking at it the wrong way!!!![]! Other wise no spring or rod would work.

    Keep up the great work. I am enjoying watching your progress.

    OK, thanks I was wondering if that were the case.
    I noticed you're in Williamsburg,VA....I used to spend some time accross the river from there once in a while in my younger days.
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  23. #723
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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    I'm a good way to completing the tail on the Zero. Don't have pics of the full progress yet and plan to finish that once the linkages to the servos are complete. Should be within the next day or two.

    The rear of the fuse was marked and cut out to allow access to the area required. Unfortunately the edges were very easy to hack and consequently look a bit rough. Will have to do some neatening around the perimeter and in the cut necessary to slide it over the tailwheel. Thin ply was bonded to the inside to form a shoulder for the removed section to rest on and maintain the correct skin height. Not that difficult although the side pieces needed to be contoured. There will be small doublers bonded in for screws later.

    I added a brace across the fuse to anchor the pivot for the rudder shaft extending up into the vertical stab. This has a plastic insert not visible under the arm setup. I fabbed the double decker originally to tie the tailwheel to rudder using springs, but clearance and other considerations nixed that idea. The pad for the tailwheel mount and soon to show rudder control rods are thin ply with a sheet of balsa sandwiched between. Very light and strong. I have blind nuts to give a solid tight anchor once the bracket was bolted down.

    That tailwheel bracket was shortened and a plastic tube inserted to allow for a smaller wire with better suspension for the weight of the tail. I formed this from a stock linkage wire wrapped around a 1/4-20 tap shank several timed before each end was bent to fit the mount and tailwheel. The top was bent over and a threaded sleeve installed to connect the steering linkage. The advantage here is I was able to set the spring tension relatively well by the simple expedient of wrap counts. It can still be bent relatively easily, something not altogether bad as any deformation is quickly and easily correct. That is not expected to happen under normal loads. The standoff was simply a rivet heat. The shank diameter matched the wire and it provides a good height and bearing surface. This is necessary to have just the spring and tailwheel protrude below the fuse.

    The reason for all this was originally to move the tail linkages all internal. I hate their original design with control horns bolted on everywhere. Ever heard the term "Lipstick on a Pig"?

    One other change was to replace the alloy main tube and smaller wooden dowels for the horizontal tail with two diameter C/F tubes. This strengthened the tail considerably and provided a good anchor point for the elevator control.

    Will have more pics later, but perhaps some of these ideas can be transferred into the Harvard tail area.



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  24. #724

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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    Cougar, Thanks for the photos and info on your tailwheel. I'll have to study what you've done and see how it might help me in my application. Right now I'm suffering badly from allergy symtoms and barely able to read or comprehend much. I'll look forward to further information amnd photos however.
    Best,
    Dick
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  25. #725

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    RE: Top Flite AT6 ARF

    Bit the bullet and made the cut....and this is what it looks like. That rear most bottom fuse sure was thick but it came out ok considering. This is still relatively new to me but most of the mods I've done so far on my other planes seem to have worked out so far.

    I had a bsic line drawing to illustrate what I would like to try but it wouldn't load.... The tailwheel strut would be secured similiar to Cougar's. Then connected to an arm with short pull-pull cables included running to a rudder horn. It involves relocating the rudder control rod but I'm not sure what the best way would be to do that and secure another tube for it to ride in properly.

    The last pic is what I'm striving for but any comments or suggestions so far on anything would be welcome.



    Dick
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